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Thread: My free hand sharpening technique

  1. #1
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    My free hand sharpening technique

    Here is the way I sharpen free-hand when I do. Not used to making videos so please forgive the incompetance. The last few seconds is cut off one or two of them. This is how I do it now. I think it is the easiest way to free hand sharpen as well as getting great results faster if you are just beginning to learn to sharpen. At least for those just starting to learn. I believe starting with this method would be wise because it works. It is very easy to learn and understand. The simplicity of this method is what makes it work so quickly compared to the other techniques or styles I've tried. Having said that, for anyone who already has technique that they like and works for them there is no need to start doing it like the videos below. Anyway, here goes.

    I put this here a couple days after I started this thread. It is also in post #14.
    This is a single video of what is in the different parts below. I think it's easier to understand than watching parts 1-5.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7nvng0GHcI&hd=1


    Part 1




    part 2



    part 3




    part 4



    part 5 (video named part 6)



    I hope this is of some benifit to someone. Please ask questions if I didn't make something clear enough or ask why something should be done a certain way (IMO). I'm by no means an expert and would love to learn some more from the people on this forum. Lord knows I've learned a lot here so far.


    Jack
    Last edited by jackknifeh; 04-21-2014 at 04:52 AM.

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

  2. #2
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Clip's Avatar
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    Thanks for taking the time to make these videos! Always interesting to compare my techniques to others.
    Click here to zoom: Under the Microscope

    Manix2, Elmax MT13, M4 Manix2, ZDP Caly3, ZDP Caly Jr, SB Caly3.5, M390 Para2, Cruwear MT12, Techno, XHP MT16, South Fork, SB Caly3, Manix2 Ltwt, Salt I, 20CP Para2, Military Left Hand, Perrin PPT, Forum Native5, Squeak, Manix 83mm, 440V Military, Gayle Bradley, Swick3, Lil' Temperance, Cruwear Military, VG10 Jester, Terzuola SlipIt, XHP Native Ltwt, Domino, CPM154/S90V Para2, SB Stretch, D2 Para, Dfly2 Salt, Tasman Salt

    Chris

  3. #3
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clip View Post
    Thanks for taking the time to make these videos! Always interesting to compare my techniques to others.
    If I would have given it much thought I would have named this thread something else. It wouldn't have been a statement suggesting I developed "my" technique all on my own or from scratch. What I am doing now is a melting pot of techniques and tips I've accumulated from lots of people on this forum. The "technique" I tried to convey in the videos is very simple to understand. However, it's almost impossible to convey the method without pictures. This method using only two hand positions or movements is very simple and easy to learn. With a little practice the stroking becomes second nature and very comfortable. This is just one starting point. Or, people new to sharpening can do what I did. Try to figure things out as you go. This is what I've done since I was about 10 after Dad showed me how to sharpen. But if someone is just getting started and can jump in with the info other's have learned they are way ahead of the game. These people can get fantastic results a lot quicker. Sharpening a knife is a pretty basic thing but it's not a skill that is learned overnight. Anyway, I just hoped to give back some of the information I've gotten from this forum and demonstrate it AFTER I digested the info and practiced. So I'm throwing my videos or method into the melting pot for people to stir up and see what they get from these videos and info or techniques from other people.

    Making videos is hard. I came up with 5 seperate ones out of 10 to 20 attempts. Really there were 6 but one was too large to fit on photobucket and I didn't feel like redoing it. I want to learn a better way to do this stuff. Right now I am limited to a 500mb file size to upload to photobucket. That's why I had to devide it into different "parts". A video editor came on my tablet. I played with it but didn't get anywhere. Nothing comes with user manuals any more. It's all digital. You know you are old when you prefer the written word over a digital word.

    One thing I intended to do was give credit to others but I forgot to. On blade forums there is a guy named knifenut2013. He started a thread called "The First Sharpening". Of all the info and advice I've gotten over the past 5 years regarding sharpening this guy sort of put the icing on the cake. I read what he wrote and talked to him on the phone once. Then I learned what I show in the videos. Later I watched one of his youtube videos and he moves the blade along the stone much like most people in most videos. His blade is at a 45 angle with the stone while I am holding the blade at a 90 angle with the stone. After seeing the knife angle he used I was tempted to immediately try to copy his method. However, I don't know exactly why he holds the knife at a 45 angle with the stone. I do know why I hold the blade at a 90 angle and I know it works. I know his method works too but I don't know WHY he keeps the knife at a 45 angle. I'm planning on contacting him, asking him to watch my videos and getting his feedback on why he does exactly what he does and what he thinks of what I am doing. Hopefully, I'll learn more. It may or may not result in me changing something in how I free-hand sharpen right now. But additional information is always good. So I strongly suggest anyone wanting to learn should check out his videos. Check out the thread "The First Sharpening" on blade forums and also his videos on youtube. He goes by the name "Mr. Edgy" on youtube. No one should just copy my videos. They should absorb that info and add it to any other info available. Having said that, when starting out learning anything I think it's best to start simple, develop that into some skill then add to it. If you get 10 different people's views before you even try to sharpen you probably won't know what to do. That's even if all 10 different people have good technique.

    Jack

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

  4. #4
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Correction:
    The bladeforum user name I said was knifenut2013 is really knifenut1013.

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

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    Jack,

    Thank you. I'll watch sometime later.

    Just to add, the diagonal (45) that a lot of sharpener does is to make the teeth facing backward, so pull slicing will have more bite. It also gives more contact length on the straight section of the blade. That's what I understand from what I picked up reading various posts.

    You may want to check HeavyHanded's Washboard manual that he posted in Squashfan's thread. I think he described his reason to go 45 there, related to feedback loop.

    HeavyHanded Youtube is Neuman2010 and Knifenut1013 is mredgy81.

    Sharpening is fun, hope this helps others too.

  6. #6
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Clip's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by anagarika View Post
    Jack,

    Thank you. I'll watch sometime later.

    Just to add, the diagonal (45) that a lot of sharpener does is to make the teeth facing backward, so pull slicing will have more bite. It also gives more contact length on the straight section of the blade. That's what I understand from what I picked up reading various posts.

    You may want to check HeavyHanded's Washboard manual that he posted in Squashfan's thread. I think he described his reason to go 45 there, related to feedback loop.

    HeavyHanded Youtube is Neuman2010 and Knifenut1013 is mredgy81.

    Sharpening is fun, hope this helps others too.
    Thanks for recommending them and adding YouTube usernames. The ones that got me down the path to freehand righteousness was So-Lo sharpening his XHP Manix, think he's on YouTube as well:

    http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showt...-video-series)
    Click here to zoom: Under the Microscope

    Manix2, Elmax MT13, M4 Manix2, ZDP Caly3, ZDP Caly Jr, SB Caly3.5, M390 Para2, Cruwear MT12, Techno, XHP MT16, South Fork, SB Caly3, Manix2 Ltwt, Salt I, 20CP Para2, Military Left Hand, Perrin PPT, Forum Native5, Squeak, Manix 83mm, 440V Military, Gayle Bradley, Swick3, Lil' Temperance, Cruwear Military, VG10 Jester, Terzuola SlipIt, XHP Native Ltwt, Domino, CPM154/S90V Para2, SB Stretch, D2 Para, Dfly2 Salt, Tasman Salt

    Chris

  7. #7
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by anagarika View Post
    Jack,

    Thank you. I'll watch sometime later.

    Just to add, the diagonal (45) that a lot of sharpener does is to make the teeth facing backward, so pull slicing will have more bite. It also gives more contact length on the straight section of the blade. That's what I understand from what I picked up reading various posts.

    You may want to check HeavyHanded's Washboard manual that he posted in Squashfan's thread. I think he described his reason to go 45 there, related to feedback loop.

    HeavyHanded Youtube is Neuman2010 and Knifenut1013 is mredgy81.

    Sharpening is fun, hope this helps others too.
    I've heard about the 45 angle to leave teeth facing one direction or the other. This makes perfect sense to me. Same reason saw teeth are cut so the blade will only cut in one direction. Of course on a knife blade the teeth are so small it will still cut in both directions but one way will get through the skin of a tomato (for example) easier. I have been considering trying this to see how much difference it makes but haven't yet. It seems to me if the scratch pattern (starting at the edge) goes from heel to tip the edge would be better suited to pull slicing and if the scratch pattern goes from tip to heel, push cuts would be easier. That's a guess based on me picturing the edge and teeth in my head. This is intriguing to me and I may play with it later. Right now I'm just getting started at getting sharper than average edges. Fine tuning an edge regarding tooth direction is in the future. For kitchen knives I think it could be helpful. For an EDC knife I'm not to sure how much benifit this would be since we (I) don't know what I'll be cutting or if I'll be using push or pull slicing motion. So far I haven't been able to determine if a toothy edge finished at 1k or lower does better for me or does a smooth edge 4k or higher is better. For my needs it doesn't seem to matter. Or maybe I just can't tell the difference. Now that I think about it a bit I don't remember a professional sharpener saying they do it one way (teeth direction) on one knife based on use or the other way. Maybe the customer requests the direction of the teeth. Also, when holding the blade at a 90 angle with the stone all the way through the stroke like I'm doing right now the scratch pattern is also at a 90 angle WITH THE BLADE, NOT THE EDGE APEX. As you look at the scratch pattern along the edge the scratches start going from the edge in the direction towards the tip as you get closer to the tip. For now I'm usually finishing with higher grit stones, creating smoother edges so the direction of the scratch pattern after the coarser stones doesn't matter because the scratches are gone when I'm finished. Except for the scratches requiring high magnification (higher than 20x) to see. And then the teeth are so tiny I doubt if they make any difference at all. Different people, I'm sure, have more educated knowledge of this issue and how much difference teeth direction makes. I've heard about teeth direction on the edge but that's as far as my knowledge goes.

    As I learn more I may start doing different things to fine tune an edge. The method I'm using now (in the videos) I picture as how someone could start out who is just starting to learn to free hand sharpen. It's like step one. The basics. After that almost everyone will deviate from this based on increased knowledg and/or specific needs. Or,,, they may just prefer a different method. The really new people are the ones I was thinking of when I decided to make the videos. It's a very easy concept to learn and it works for a basic edge. All people have the same questions when getting started. Examples: I work and work and the edge just doesn't get sharp. Why can I sharpen knife x but not knife y? What angle is best? I don't answer may questions in the videos. But after a basic technique is established these questions can be answered and overcome as well. We need to understand the concept of "hitting the edge" as well as actually being able to do it. I'm new enough to free hand sharpening to remember the problems I had, and still have sometimes. I've sharpened my pocket knives for about 35 years or more but after a knife could easily open a package I considered it sharp. If it shaved my arm hair I considered it razor sharp.

    Jack

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

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    Jack,

    What you did reminds me of Mag from BF, that you try to help beginners about where to start. Thank you for this. Unfortunately we don't have a special sub forum for that (or perhaps not needed, as most Spydies come sharp and there's SM).

    Definitely will watch yours and provide feedback. Your understanding about the teeth is similar. And surfingringo recently has another thread to explore polished vs toothy edge.

    Such a wonderful mystery I'd say, but perhaps it's OT for now.

    Clip,

    I'd add Magnanimous (ducha123fly) over BF as he has quite a collection as well , and for those interested to explore further, check the Maintenance subforum, where sharpening junkies gather
    Magnanimous also has good sticky for beginners and another thread with some collections of videos too.
    Bluntcut (mythotanlong) has interesting take on burr removal.

    Just adding arsenals of information
    Last edited by anagarika; 04-15-2014 at 07:07 PM. Reason: appreciation, clarity and spell check

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    Jack,

    I have watched your video. Very good introduction!
    I also use both left & right hand to sharpen for the same reason: achieving better symmetry on both bevels.

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    I just got knifenut's new video. He has changed his YT to be MrEdgy. So Jack is right

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    Spyderco Forum Registered User xceptnl's Avatar
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    Very informative Jack. I agree with Clip that it's always good to know how others do it. I plan on trying your technique over the weekend. I will share my results. So-Lo's videos on his freehand mirror edges were very motivating to me a few years ago when he first posted them.
    My 's:
    Native, Manix 2 (BD1,154CM,S30V,M4,XHP,S110V,Cruwear), Delica 4 (White,Red,Brown,Blue,BRG,G-10), Spyderhawk, D'fly (H1,G-10,SB), Police3, Volpe, Military (S30V,XHP,D2,M390,BG42,440V,Cruwear), Superleafs, Forager, D2 Para, Kopas, Kiwis, Caly (JR's,3,3.5), Para2 (XHP,204P), Stretch (SS,FRN's,CF), Rescues, Dyad Jr, Pingos, Southard, AIR, Jess Horns, Forum N5, Lil Matriarch, Barong, Superhawk, Chinook II, ATR, SPY-DK, Captain, Ti UKPK, Mules

    *Landon*

  12. #12
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xceptnl View Post
    Very informative Jack. I agree with Clip that it's always good to know how others do it. I plan on trying your technique over the weekend. I will share my results. So-Lo's videos on his freehand mirror edges were very motivating to me a few years ago when he first posted them.
    Unless we are intentionally wanting a convex bevel it's usually the goal to get as flat a bevel as we can. In addition to trying to see any difference in scratch pattern I like to use the marker. I'd paint the entire edge area. Then perform one stroke as perfect (and slow) as I could then look at it. If I did it correctly the removed marker should match the existing bevel all the way from heel to tip. This is assuming the original bevelj was close to the same angle and even. In the past I have put a known angle on the bevel with the EP then see how many strokes I could do in a row without convexing the flat bevel the EP left. This is good to see how consistent my strokes are but even though the EP is consistent from stroke to stroke all jig type systems have quirks. The EP's perfection may not leave the absolute desired result on a knife blade depending on how you move the blade or don't move the blade as the strokes go around the belly. Therefore when I would free hand using this technique the contact I was making may not match the bevel left by the EP. I used the EP as the example because it is about as close to perfect as there is regarding performing the same stroke repeatedly. I'm sure some knives including factory bevels will be shown to have inconsistencies. At my level of experience I think this technique is as accurate as any for putting the same angle on the bevel from heel to tip. If the technique is accurate then any inaccuracy will come from us. That's no surprise since free hand sharpening will always have inaccuracies in each stroke.

    So if you try this technique keep in mind the edge to stone contact point along the edge will be determined by your stroke and the bevel that is on an edge already. If the bevel is inaccurate for whatever reason it may look like the technique is flawed when in fact that may not be the case. I'm saying this because I didn't consider it at first. The way I might hold one knife blade on the EP may result in the angle getting a bit lower around the belly and the bevel getting wider. That inaccuracy might make it look like my stroke with this free hand technique is off when in fact I may be putting a more consistant bevel around the belly than the EP did. More consistent all the way from heel to tip I mean.

    My SB Stretch is the only knife I've used this technique on that I hadn't first sharpened myself. The bevels were already very even and the same width on both sides. But on some factory edges I've seen, it takes a lot of steel removal if you want to create a new consistent edge angle and bevel. After that initial profiling using this technique, or any technique accurately I guess, keeping the edge in good shape and sharp can be done in just a few strokes.

    I'm going to continue using this technique and will post anything I learn about it. I've been saying there are two main points but that is wrong. There are three. 1) Keep the entire BLADE (not the edge) at a 90 angle with the stone, 2) Control the angle by twisting the knife in your hand/fingers to lift and lower the spine while the edge is on the stone, 3) Control the location of the edge you are sharpening by raising or lowering the handle and DON'T CHANGE THE ANGLE BY ALLOWING YOUR HAND/FINGERS TO CHANGE THE POSITION THEY SHOULD BE LOCKED IN. These three things working together and performed properly I believe will result in a very consistent angle and edge bevel. The thing I believe makes this a good way for people to learn to sharpen free hand is how simple it is to understand and perform these three things. Now the blade shape can change change the bevel width around the belly and to the tip. If the blade edge gets thicker around the belly toward the spine the bevel will get wider even when the edge angle is the same as the rest of the edge. Here are some pics to illustrate this.

    Stretch spine. The blade and spine gets thinner as you get closer to the tip. I think this is called a distel taper.


    Stretch bevel around the belly. Since the blade doesn't get thicker as the belly curves upward toward the spine the bevel stays about the same width. I'd say any deviation in bevel width on this knife is my doing.


    Bradley Folder spine. The spine on this blade is thicker at the tip where the edge meets the spine compared to the blade thickness along the flatter portion of the edge.


    Bradley Folder bevel around the belly. Since the blade gets thicker along the belly as it moves upward toward the spine, the bevel gets wider even though the angle is still the same as the rest of the edge.


    This is my understanding regarding this issue. If I'm wrong about anything please, someone correct me.



    Jack

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

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    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    I want to mention a flaw in my performance with this technique and the results. When profiling the edge on my Stretch I noticed the bevel on the front of the belly and tip was not as wide as it was on the rest of the edge. I paid very close attention and as I was raising the handle I could tell I was twisting the handle, raising the angle just a tiny bit. By paying closer attention to not doing this I was able to correct my problem. This is the type of thing that can become muscle memory setting the habit and making it harder to identify or correct. OTOH, now that I know the problem I pay more attention to it and any muscle memory my hands develop will be holding the knife correctly. The thing is I didn't notice anything until examining the edge. The edge will let us know how accurate we are and we can't argue with results.

    Jack

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

  14. #14
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Here is a new video I made of the technique I went through in the first post. It is as much a way for me to learn how to make a video and get it on youtube. I tried messing with it on my tablet but I finally got it here using the computer. How it will work? Don't know yet. If it does work at least it's only one video.


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7nvng0GHcI&hd=1

    Jack

    Edit: I put this link in post #1 also.
    Last edited by jackknifeh; 04-21-2014 at 04:53 AM.

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

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    Spyderco Forum Registered User Jazz's Avatar
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    When I click your link, it says the video is private.
    - best wishes, Jazz.

  16. #16
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazz View Post
    When I click your link, it says the video is private.
    Me fix. Sorry. Try now.
    Last edited by jackknifeh; 04-21-2014 at 11:38 AM.

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

  17. #17
    Spyderco Forum Registered User xceptnl's Avatar
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    Jack, I came home yesterday after a beautiful Easter Sunday of contemplation and reflection. I was admittedly thinking about this thread on my way home from church and family obligations. I opened my seahorse case and stared testing edge sharpness levels. To my surprise, my knives are sharper than I expected so apparently I am searching for the least sharp. I discover my Manix 2 (because I can't stop thinking about the S110V coming tomorrow) is much less sharp than acceptable my by my standards so it became the prime candidate.
    When I first watched your videos Jack I was intrigued. It is not identical to the technique I use, but no two are alike. This is most evident to any who watch your video by comparing your knife of choice to something with a 4" plus blade. I attempted to forget my usual methods in lieu of your demonstrated ones. I did have to slightly modify as I was sharpening a longer blade than you on a narrower stone. The simple diagonal stroke solved this with minimal change. My findings were gratifying and surprising. I found that the leaf shaped blades with more subtle belly and lower point tips were much more suited to your technique. I did find difficulty with knives possessing a higher point and more abrupt belly rise. This was discovered on my Opinel No. 8 and Schempp Tuff. Both of these knives required me to break my wrist and roll the knife laterally, away from the long axis of the stone. I am sure with practice I could manipulate your locked wrist method to work on these other blade shapes. Thanks again for your videos and insight.
    My 's:
    Native, Manix 2 (BD1,154CM,S30V,M4,XHP,S110V,Cruwear), Delica 4 (White,Red,Brown,Blue,BRG,G-10), Spyderhawk, D'fly (H1,G-10,SB), Police3, Volpe, Military (S30V,XHP,D2,M390,BG42,440V,Cruwear), Superleafs, Forager, D2 Para, Kopas, Kiwis, Caly (JR's,3,3.5), Para2 (XHP,204P), Stretch (SS,FRN's,CF), Rescues, Dyad Jr, Pingos, Southard, AIR, Jess Horns, Forum N5, Lil Matriarch, Barong, Superhawk, Chinook II, ATR, SPY-DK, Captain, Ti UKPK, Mules

    *Landon*

  18. #18
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xceptnl View Post
    When I first watched your videos Jack I was intrigued. It is not identical to the technique I use, but no two are alike. This is most evident to any who watch your video by comparing your knife of choice to something with a 4" plus blade. I attempted to forget my usual methods in lieu of your demonstrated ones. I did have to slightly modify as I was sharpening a longer blade than you on a narrower stone. The simple diagonal stroke solved this with minimal change. My findings were gratifying and surprising. I found that the leaf shaped blades with more subtle belly and lower point tips were much more suited to your technique. I did find difficulty with knives possessing a higher point and more abrupt belly rise. This was discovered on my Opinel No. 8 and Schempp Tuff. Both of these knives required me to break my wrist and roll the knife laterally, away from the long axis of the stone. I am sure with practice I could manipulate your locked wrist method to work on these other blade shapes. Thanks again for your videos and insight.
    Longer blades that are longer than the stone is wide do require a bit of change. But not any more with the techniqe I'm using now that any other I don't think. The more dramatic change in belly will require some adjustment in when and how far you lift the handle I suppose. I haven't sharpened a knife like that yet. The most dramatic belly I have sharpened is the Manbug and from the time I got it I would reduce the belly a bit by spending more time in that area than on opposite sides (heel and tip). The straightens the edge shape a bit. I have found I prefer a straighter edge (but not wharncliff straight) on EDC knives. You did prompt me to check my Opinel #6 though regarding the belly. I remembered it was a straight edge until the dramatic upsweep to the tip/spine. I noticed and remembered the uneven bevels on both sides of this knife. I will attempt to correct these uneven bevels using the free hand technique I'm using now. Up till now I have learned to sharpen using the EP and another free hand technique where I DON'T LIFT THE HANDLE. Somehow the bevels on this knife got like they are and now I'm going to try to correct it. Here's a video identifying the problem. I'll put the other video up after I attempt the fix, results good or bad. I started this thread in an attempt to help new sharpeners. Since I'm pretty new as well I'll post any mistakes as well as successes. I'll learn from them. Maybe someone else can too.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZES...=youtu.be&hd=1

    I'll be back after I work on this knife.

    Jack

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

  19. #19
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    The youtube videos look blurry to me. Blurrier than what is on the display as I record them. Don't know why (yet). Anyone know anything about that?

    Jack

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

  20. #20
    Spyderco Forum Registered User xceptnl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackknifeh View Post
    The youtube videos look blurry to me. Blurrier than what is on the display as I record them. Don't know why (yet). Anyone know anything about that?

    Jack
    Jack, it almost appears to be on your lens. The right side (your hand) is not blurry at all, but from the right edge of the stone all the way to the left, it does appear blurred.
    My 's:
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