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Thread: I think I'm done buying sharpening stuff.

  1. #1
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    I think I'm done buying sharpening stuff.

    I'm posting this mainly as what I would recommend for sharpening stones based on what I've tried. Othes may like different options but now I will use any extra money for knives instead of stones or strop stuff.

    I've reached the point that I will no longer be buying sharpening tools (stones, strops, systems, etc.) I have 3 type stones and will probably only use two. I have DMT fine and extra-fine, Spyderco fine and UF, and Shapton glass 320, 1k, 4k, 8k bench stones. And I have the EP with a set of Shapton glass stones. For the moment I will only be using the Spyderco and Shapton glass bench stones. I love the DMT stones but don't need them. I haven't used the EP in 6 months or so but love it also so I'll keep it. In the past I have sold stuff after I don't use them for a while.

    So, after trying a few different stone types I have settled with the Shapton glass for a high end water stone set. Of the other stones I've tried I love the Spyderco stones more than others. The only reason to get another stone in addition to the 3 Spyderco grits is if you want or need a coarser stone. I have that covered with the Shaptons but if I didn't have them I'd add to the Spyderco's with a coarse or extra-coarse DMT I
    think. One thing that is a major advantage of the Spyderco stones is you can use them dry. No mess. Just open the box, sharpen or touch up and back in the box they go. Give them a bath once after every two uses or one extended use. In addition to that they perform great. If they didn't perform so well I wouldn't use them no matter how easy they are to use. By adding a coarser DMT you still have the dry, no mess and have a good stone for the heavier jobs.

    There are tons of stones I haven't tried but unless you just want to try a bunch of different ones I think the main thing is to find good quality stones and just use them. Unless you want to spend LOTS of time sharpening having different stones around the house is money just sitting there. Unless you use them of course. But even the guys who have many, many stones seem to settle into a small set they use most.

    This info may be of use to someone who is considering sharpening stones. Or not.

    Jack

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

  2. #2
    Spyderco Forum Registered User SkullBouncer's Avatar
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    Very useful, thanks, Jack.

  3. #3
    Spyderco Forum Registered User bh49's Avatar
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    Jack,
    Thank you for sharing your experience. Is 320 Shapton glass the coarsest stones, which you use?
    Roman
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  4. #4
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Evil D's Avatar
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    I plan to buy the rest of the Atoma plates I don't have and that'll be it unless I manage to wear them out.

    SHARPEN IT LIKE YOU LOVE IT, USE IT LIKE YOU HATE IT
    ~David

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  5. #5
    Spyderco Forum Registered User senorsquare's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Evil D View Post
    I plan to buy the rest of the Atoma plates I don't have and that'll be it unless I manage to wear them out.
    Same here. I've got a set of 4 atomas for the edge pro, 140, 400, 600 and 1200 and they work too well for me to want to get anything else. If I want a more refined edge I can finish up with my MoldMasters or the stock EP stones.

  6. #6
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bh49 View Post
    Jack,
    Thank you for sharing your experience. Is 320 Shapton glass the coarsest stones, which you use?
    Roman
    I have a 2x6" DMT stone that I seldom use. It is rated at 220. But the Shapton glass 320 is the coarsest stone I would use if a lot of steel removal is needed. It cuts very fast and leaves a more consistant scratch pattern than the DMT does. I like the DMT stones a lot but I prefer the Shaptons.

    Jack

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

  7. #7
    Spyderco Forum Registered User kbuzbee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Evil D View Post
    I plan to buy the rest of the Atoma plates I don't have and that'll be it unless I manage to wear them out.
    I have that set for WEPS. Great plates! I really like them.

    One day I'll need to give those Shaptons a go, Jack. Great post.

    Ken
    玉鋼

  8. #8
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Evil D's Avatar
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    The Shaptons are great, I just think they are better suited for someone that ALWAYS polishes a bevel and who wants a true grit progression. I have the 220/320/1k/16k glass stones, and I may pick up some of the others between 1k and 16k for when I do wanna play with polishing bevels, but for anything under 2k I really feel the Atomas are where it's at especially if you're reprofiling because they're all the same thickness so you never have to be concerned about how that effects your angle. You never have to lap them either, and lower grit stones are usually the ones that need the most lapping, and because of that they last longer. All that adds up to being worth the price in my book.

    SHARPEN IT LIKE YOU LOVE IT, USE IT LIKE YOU HATE IT
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    Official plea to Sal: Can we PLEASE get a DLC Yojimbo 2? PLEASE!!?

  9. #9
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Evil D View Post
    The Shaptons are great, I just think they are better suited for someone that ALWAYS polishes a bevel and who wants a true grit progression. I have the 220/320/1k/16k glass stones, and I may pick up some of the others between 1k and 16k for when I do wanna play with polishing bevels, but for anything under 2k I really feel the Atomas are where it's at especially if you're reprofiling because they're all the same thickness so you never have to be concerned about how that effects your angle. You never have to lap them either, and lower grit stones are usually the ones that need the most lapping, and because of that they last longer. All that adds up to being worth the price in my book.
    The one here that would know way better than me is Madrookie but I think you might be able to get away with only the 4k (or maybe 6k) Shapton glass stone between 1k and 16k. I'm thinking that stones that really cut well and have a very fine scratch pattern even while they are cutting fast you may be able to skip a grit or two between stones. I may be wrong about this though. I may try jumping from the 320 to the 4k to see how it works. Or the 1k to the 8k. Just out of curiousity. No arguing the closer the grit progression the better I guess but some don't want to spend every dollar possible. I get along fine with the 320, (skip 500) 1k, (skip 2k) 4k, (skip 6k) then 8k. These are bench stones. I have the 500, 1k, 2k, 4k, 6k, 8k and 16k in EP size and you don't need every one of the grits. Especially the 6k. That seems to be an oddball grit given the progression from 4k to 8k is about perfect. I've never tried the Atomas but have really wanted too. Everyone says they are a lot more consistant in scratch pattern then DMT stones and that is important if wanting to shoot for a high polish with the high grit stones. You don't want any stray random scratches from poor coarser grit stones. The Atoma's don't do that is my understanding. I would tend to agree with you about using them for the coarser grits and a water stone for polishing. Using the 8k or especially the 16k Shapton glass you can get a mirror finish (naked eye) but you can also get that with a strop with a good aggressive abrasive like CBN (CKTG). Or the diamond sprays but CBN seems to cut (polish) faster than the diamond sprays. It better, it costs twice as much. And with a leather strop they are nice for polishing the bevel because they "wrap" around slight convex bevels. After that remove any burr and you have a pretty edge. Might even be sharp.

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

  10. #10
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    BTW Evil, I post that I am done buying sharpening stuff and here you go talking about the Atoma's which I have been wanting for a long time. Gets me to wanting them again. Good thing this isn't a substance abuse forum.

    Jack

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

  11. #11
    Spyderco Forum Registered User _centurio_'s Avatar
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    That's nice I also have a lot of sharpening stuff: A lot of different benchstones, guided sharpeners, leather strocks, ceramic rods and so on. But after a lot of sharpening I came back to the Sharpmaker for final honing and diamond plates/Lansky for coarser grinding and reprofiling. Less is more

    Oliver

  12. #12
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by _centurio_ View Post
    That's nice I also have a lot of sharpening stuff: A lot of different benchstones, guided sharpeners, leather strocks, ceramic rods and so on. But after a lot of sharpening I came back to the Sharpmaker for final honing and diamond plates/Lansky for coarser grinding and reprofiling. Less is more

    Oliver
    Yup. Me too. After the Shapton glass 8k stone I still am happy with a touchup using the Spyderco UF. It just FEELS good when using it. It almost doesn't feel like anything is happening to the edge but after several strokes it's obvious something has happened. Sharp is back.

    Jack

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

  13. #13
    Spyderco Forum Registered User All-R-Crazy's Avatar
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    I just got myself set up on a grinder with paper wheels and hopefully that's all I'll ever need again, with sharp maker as a touch up
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  14. #14
    Spyderco Forum Registered User 78lilred's Avatar
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    Good to hear you've finally got a setup that you're happy with. I feel ok with mold masters/dmt plates/ shapton 500/1k and some balsa strops.... could always use more shaptons though... and some jnats of course.
    M390 Para2, CTS-XHP Para2, CTS-204P Para2, Gayle Bradley, Techno, Bob T Slipit, M390 Mule, Southard, Southfork, Air, Tuff, ZDP Caly 3.5.

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    Spyderco Forum Registered User
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    I think that I am done with buying anymore sharpeners too.

    I have stuck with DMT and Spyderco stones for the most part.

    I don't even bother with going past the DMT 600-grit red stone or the Spyderco brown stone most of the time now.
    My favorite Spyderco knives include: Caly 3.5, Chaparral, Delica 4 FFG, Stretch, Para-Military 2, Endura 4 FFG, Manix 2 & Manix 2 XL!

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  16. #16
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GCG199 View Post
    I think that I am done with buying anymore sharpeners too.

    I have stuck with DMT and Spyderco stones for the most part.

    I don't even bother with going past the DMT 600-grit red stone or the Spyderco brown stone most of the time now.
    I can't believe it. Someone who uses good stones and only goes as high in the grit progression to get a great edge and JUST STOPS THERE? Sounds like a smart guy who has a normal life to me.

    Jack

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

  17. #17
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Evil D's Avatar
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    I just redid the bevel on my Southard...220 grit and then raised the angle a couple degrees and used the 3k EP tape...oh my goodness. This might be the end for my EDC edges. I don't know what it is about these tapes but I swear I get sharper edges off those than anything else I use, including my 16k glass stone. I figured maybe it has something to do with dishing or something but I've lapped and even beveled the edges on that stone, and it just never leaves an edge as sharp as the tapes do. It's a great stone for polishing, but those tapes, I don't know what it is maybe something to do with my technique, but for now I think I've found my perfect edge with the low grit bevel and lightly apexed EP tape finish.

    SHARPEN IT LIKE YOU LOVE IT, USE IT LIKE YOU HATE IT
    ~David

    Official plea to Sal: Can we PLEASE get a DLC Yojimbo 2? PLEASE!!?

  18. #18
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Evil D View Post
    I just redid the bevel on my Southard...220 grit and then raised the angle a couple degrees and used the 3k EP tape...oh my goodness. This might be the end for my EDC edges. I don't know what it is about these tapes but I swear I get sharper edges off those than anything else I use, including my 16k glass stone. I figured maybe it has something to do with dishing or something but I've lapped and even beveled the edges on that stone, and it just never leaves an edge as sharp as the tapes do. It's a great stone for polishing, but those tapes, I don't know what it is maybe something to do with my technique, but for now I think I've found my perfect edge with the low grit bevel and lightly apexed EP tape finish.
    So you polished the teeth left by a 220 grit edge with a 3k tape? I'm assumming the edge is still toothy. Is that right? I don't think I've heard of anyone doing this with such a jump in grit. That would be an edge I've never tried or seen before. May have to try it. I'm thinking why stop with stones at 220 unless you wanted a toothy edge. But then to strop with the 3k tapes? I'm curious about it. I think the next time I reprofile an edge from a 320 grit (lowest I have) I will try that. I have yellow and blue tapes. I think one of those is 3k and one is 2k. I never did use the tapes much. Wait, I have the 120 and 220 in EP stones. I forgot. Instead of the tapes I would normally go to an 8k or 16k stone. But you say you like the tapes better than the 16k. How would you describe the edge? Toothy? Toothy with a polish? Or are teeth gone or almost gone? I was thinking it would take a lot of time to smooth a 220 grit edge with the 3k tape.

    Jack

    Jack

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

  19. #19
    Spyderco Forum Registered User chuck_roxas45's Avatar
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    I'm thinking the tapes just reduced the burr that was left after the 220 stone but didn't affect the coarse edge itself.
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  20. #20
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Evil D's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuck_roxas45 View Post
    I'm thinking the tapes just reduced the burr that was left after the 220 stone but didn't affect the coarse edge itself.
    This is my hunch as well, despite my best effort to prevent and/or remove any burr left by the 220. I can't see any burr with my 20x loupe after I finish with the 220, and I can't feel any with my fingers, but it has to be something along these lines. As for the "polishing the teeth", I wouldn't call it polishing because I only make a few very light passes. In my mind this does the same thing that a strop would do, but it does it with a perfectly flat and contamination free surface that is held at a perfect angle, using a surface that won't compress and wrap around the edge. Then again the big difference between this and stropping is that I'm making passes into the edge instead of away from it.

    SHARPEN IT LIKE YOU LOVE IT, USE IT LIKE YOU HATE IT
    ~David

    Official plea to Sal: Can we PLEASE get a DLC Yojimbo 2? PLEASE!!?

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