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Thread: I think I'm done buying sharpening stuff.

  1. #21
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Evil D View Post
    This is my hunch as well, despite my best effort to prevent and/or remove any burr left by the 220. I can't see any burr with my 20x loupe after I finish with the 220, and I can't feel any with my fingers, but it has to be something along these lines. As for the "polishing the teeth", I wouldn't call it polishing because I only make a few very light passes. In my mind this does the same thing that a strop would do, but it does it with a perfectly flat and contamination free surface that is held at a perfect angle, using a surface that won't compress and wrap around the edge. Then again the big difference between this and stropping is that I'm making passes into the edge instead of away from it.
    I have had the feeling (with no evidence) that sometimes there is a burr that is so small I can't feel it with fingers or see it with any loupe I have. Still, being not part of a perfect edge can effect cutting performance as well as will still snap off letting the edge dull faster than a given steel should. So if you are removing a burr that is invisible to normal detection that would help I'm sure. This level of accuracy is where the really sharp edges appear.

    I thought you could only use trailing strokes with the tapes. Stroking into the edge I thought would cut the tapes up. Maybe with really light pressure. Are your strokes light enough to effect the edge and not cut the tapes? And I'm sure the pressure to remove super small burrs wouldn't need to be very much at all. Actually, the lighter the better as to not effect the opposite side. Your thoughts on this?

    Jack

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

  2. #22
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Evil D's Avatar
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    You can do passes in both directions with the tapes as long as you make a few light passes in the beginning to make sure the tape is pressed down really good. I have cut the tape before but it's usually along the outsides of the blank where the tape hasn't seen pressure from making passes. Once I've made a few passes in either direction, I've never cut the tape in the middle area where it hits the edge the most, and I've done some pretty firm passes before when polishing bevels.

    SHARPEN IT LIKE YOU LOVE IT, USE IT LIKE YOU HATE IT
    ~David

    Official plea to Sal: Can we PLEASE get a DLC Yojimbo 2? PLEASE!!?

  3. #23
    Spyderco Forum Registered User MadRookie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackknifeh View Post
    So you polished the teeth left by a 220 grit edge with a 3k tape? I'm assumming the edge is still toothy. Is that right? I don't think I've heard of anyone doing this with such a jump in grit. That would be an edge I've never tried or seen before. May have to try it. I'm thinking why stop with stones at 220 unless you wanted a toothy edge. But then to strop with the 3k tapes? I'm curious about it. I think the next time I reprofile an edge from a 320 grit (lowest I have) I will try that. I have yellow and blue tapes. I think one of those is 3k and one is 2k. I never did use the tapes much. Wait, I have the 120 and 220 in EP stones. I forgot. Instead of the tapes I would normally go to an 8k or 16k stone. But you say you like the tapes better than the 16k. How would you describe the edge? Toothy? Toothy with a polish? Or are teeth gone or almost gone? I was thinking it would take a lot of time to smooth a 220 grit edge with the 3k tape.

    Jack

    Jack
    Works well.

    In similar fashion I do this and jump from 500# Shapton GS to the 8k Shapton GS.

    Simply an amazing result.


  4. #24
    Spyderco Forum Registered User opusxpn's Avatar
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    I am done buying sharpening stuff also, Got sharpmaker with all stones, diamond, medium, fine and ultrafine. Got 2 diamond oval rods in 300 and 600, the smiths tri-hone for scandi grinds, one rite edge strop and just recently got some Flexx field strops(great product American made). I think I got my sharpening covered, but I am still wanting the spyderco large bench stones that I will probably get to replace the smiths tri-hone.
    Keep 'em sharp 9 Enduras, 4 Manix, 3 Delicas, 5 Ladybug, 2 Manbug, 3 Dragonfly, Pingo, Cat, 3 Salt1, Pacific salt, Tasman, 2 stretch, 2 Tenacious, Resiliance, Robyn2 G10, 3 Paramilitary2, Military, Kiwi, MT19, k04 SE & PE

  5. #25
    Spyderco Forum Registered User opusxpn's Avatar
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    Dang it I lied I got a nice strop 4stroke by stropman and some more compound now that is it for strops.
    Keep 'em sharp 9 Enduras, 4 Manix, 3 Delicas, 5 Ladybug, 2 Manbug, 3 Dragonfly, Pingo, Cat, 3 Salt1, Pacific salt, Tasman, 2 stretch, 2 Tenacious, Resiliance, Robyn2 G10, 3 Paramilitary2, Military, Kiwi, MT19, k04 SE & PE

  6. #26
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by opusxpn View Post
    Dang it I lied I got a nice strop 4stroke by stropman and some more compound now that is it for strops.
    Do you mean one of those 4 sided strop bats? If so they are nice. It should keep you happy. Till the next strop or stone. Just kidding.

    Jack

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

  7. #27
    Spyderco Forum Registered User opusxpn's Avatar
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    Yes those big ones but with out the bat handle just a paracord pull to open a compartment inside to put away compounds. And yes I still want the spyderco large bench stones and will actually get them sooner or later.
    Keep 'em sharp 9 Enduras, 4 Manix, 3 Delicas, 5 Ladybug, 2 Manbug, 3 Dragonfly, Pingo, Cat, 3 Salt1, Pacific salt, Tasman, 2 stretch, 2 Tenacious, Resiliance, Robyn2 G10, 3 Paramilitary2, Military, Kiwi, MT19, k04 SE & PE

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