Quote Originally Posted by Evil D View Post
This is my hunch as well, despite my best effort to prevent and/or remove any burr left by the 220. I can't see any burr with my 20x loupe after I finish with the 220, and I can't feel any with my fingers, but it has to be something along these lines. As for the "polishing the teeth", I wouldn't call it polishing because I only make a few very light passes. In my mind this does the same thing that a strop would do, but it does it with a perfectly flat and contamination free surface that is held at a perfect angle, using a surface that won't compress and wrap around the edge. Then again the big difference between this and stropping is that I'm making passes into the edge instead of away from it.
I have had the feeling (with no evidence) that sometimes there is a burr that is so small I can't feel it with fingers or see it with any loupe I have. Still, being not part of a perfect edge can effect cutting performance as well as will still snap off letting the edge dull faster than a given steel should. So if you are removing a burr that is invisible to normal detection that would help I'm sure. This level of accuracy is where the really sharp edges appear.

I thought you could only use trailing strokes with the tapes. Stroking into the edge I thought would cut the tapes up. Maybe with really light pressure. Are your strokes light enough to effect the edge and not cut the tapes? And I'm sure the pressure to remove super small burrs wouldn't need to be very much at all. Actually, the lighter the better as to not effect the opposite side. Your thoughts on this?

Jack