So I couldn't resist lowering the bevel of my new Manix 2 G-10 FFG from the original of 20+20.
My only previous experience reprofiling was with ZDP (Stretch and Dragonfly), so I wanted to know how different would S30V be.
As I did with ZDP, I first "ate" the metal with a kitchen stone (don't know what is that, I got it as a gift many years ago, it's a dark gray brick with coarse and fine sides), then used the Sharpmaker tilted by the kitchen stone under one side to lower the triangle stone angle (only works with one triangle stone at a time; I fine adjust the angle tilting the knife according to sound and feel). Went through the brown, fine and UF stones, no microbevel for now.
I found it hard to use the back notches of the SM with the triangle stones for manual sharpening, because when going close to the choil with low angles, the knife handle interferes with the SM base.
Then I stropped with green compound and my old handicam shoulder strap.
To be honest, I did not find a whole lot of difference from ZDP. Yes, it seems it took me less time, and I *think* I fought less with burr (but then, this time I'm a MUCH more experienced sharpener, having reprofiled two entire knives before ). My kitchen stone may have chewed S30V faster (almost ended up with a "negative belly" close to the choil, trying to lower the angle more there), but I can't say ZDP was harder or more difficult. It did take me some trial and error when I did the first ZDP, but I had never reprofiled before, apart from some "generic steel" kitchen knives. (maybe if I had tried S30V first, then ZDP, I would have noticed more difference).
So, from what I could measure (with a paquimeter and trigonometry), it had before 36 to 40 (18+18 to 20+20) degrees. Now it is around 27 to 29 (13.5+13.5 to 14.5 to 14.5) at the belly.
Next time I chop off the tip of my finger with this knife, it will be an even cleaner cut.