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Thread: How do you apply compound that comes in a BLOCK?

  1. #1
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    How do you apply compound that comes in a BLOCK?

    I just got my first stropping/polishing compound block. I have never applied this stuff to anything. How do you do it? I have a new buffing wheel to put in my drill and a naked leather strop. Also, Dremel buffing felt things. I bought it intending to use it for polishing scales, metal and stuff like that. Not necessarilly for stropping a knife edge. But, I have held scales in my hand and rubbed them on strops to polish them. So, applying this to a naked strop is ok with me. I left one I recently made bare for my razors but I don't care for whatever specific leather this is to be left bare. It seems to have no abrasive quality at all. If I don't put this compound on it I'll at least put some .1 micron spray on it. Some bare leathers make a nice strop. Bare kangaroo is awsome. This stuff is about useless without any diamond spray or something. I'm assuming I just rub the block on leather, turn the drill on (slowly) and let the spinning buffing wheel rub against the block and same with the Dremel felts. Since I'm assuming I figured I'd rather ask and LOOK stupid than prove it by doing something wrong and ruining something. Any help?

    Jack

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

  2. #2
    Spyderco Forum Registered User sharpguitarist's Avatar
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    Hey Jack,
    Fwiw, that's how I've always seen people put it on floor mounted buffing machines.
    I have a block of white and green, and I just rub it on my home made strops.
    Seems to work just fine.
    When I need to reapply, I take a flat scraper and scrape the surface of the leather. That removes old compound and raises the nap.
    Hope that helps!
    Hope you had a Merry Christmas, and have a Happy New Year!
    Later,
    Don
    everyone's entitled to their own opinion, even if it is wrong.

  3. #3
    Spyderco Forum Registered User xceptnl's Avatar
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    Jack, I use the black and green compounds for polishing blade flats as well as some stropping. I have always used the rub technique like you and Don described. If the compound block is old I read once that heating lightly in short intervals under a lighter or candle can warm (not even soften) the compound and allow it to work into the nap better. Also like Don said, I scrape mine with a blade spine to clean out old compound when the color starts to change (YMMV). I purchased an extra block of each compound I use. After a year I have used about 25% of the first blocks. I never tried the polish on woods and phenolics though. I may have to try that.
    My 's:
    Native, Manix 2 (BD1,154CM,S30V,M4,XHP,S110V,Cruwear), Delica 4 (White,Red,Brown,Blue,BRG,G-10), Spyderhawk, D'fly (H1,G-10,SB), Police3, Volpe, Military (S30V,XHP,D2,M390,BG42,440V,Cruwear), Superleafs, Forager, D2 Para, Kopas, Kiwis, Caly (JR's,3,3.5), Para2 (XHP,204P), Stretch (SS,FRN's,CF), Rescues, Dyad Jr, Pingos, Southard, AIR, Jess Horns, Forum N5, Lil Matriarch, Barong, Superhawk, Chinook II, ATR, SPY-DK, Captain, Ti UKPK, Mules

    *Landon*

  4. #4
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. I put some on a Dremel 1" felt buffing wheel. It polished my Sage4 scales very nicely. Right now they are of c-tek material. I took a picture of one side after using this stuff and also the other side. Here is what I bought.

    http://www.premiumknifesupply.com/se...lishing/Detail

    I had sanded the scales up to 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper and buffed with sprays as low as .25 micron. This did a better job. The c-tek has a much more polished look now. I'll try to post the pics tomorrow am. I left the scales on the knife but I didn't see any improvement on any metal. Liners or anything. I also used it to try to polish an already shiny edge bevel (but not mirror) and it made no difference. It was 8Cr13MoV steel. I didn't put any on a strop but I used a piece of scrap leather and tried to apply it. I used my index finger to rub the block and hardly any compound came off. I may as brettunsville leather about the leather. I bought it from them. They sell leather for about anything I think but there is lots of mention of saddles and things like that. I only buy small pieces though. I've bought from them two other times and this leather is smoother and thinner than anything they've sent so far. I have really been happy with it on strops I have applied sprays to. I have .5 micron on one and .1 micron on another strop. I may put some 15 micron on the bare one, maybe. I don't think I'll use this compound though. I just held the leather and rubbed it on the block using a bit of pressure. Maybe I'll try holding the block and rubbing it on the leather on a table and use more pressure. I don't know. I also polished the scales on my Manbug and it helped them. They are shinnier than ever. They are red bone. So I'm happy with this stuff I guess. I will try using it with the Dremel at higher speeds. When using it on a buffing wheel should there be paste left behind on the scales? If so, I applied it right. I have scales of other material. G-10, micarta, kirinite. I think anything with a motor, even a small one will melt the kirinite. I have scrap though so I'll be trying it on what I have. I do wonder how what I got compares to the white and green everyone seems to use. I think this is like a finer grit but I'm not sure.

    Jack

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

  5. #5
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Here are pics of my Sage4 scales of c-tek material. One has the finish first left after strop sprays under 1 micron. The other (front one) is after I polished it with my new compound.



    Seeing the pictures I see they are not in focus and the difference is not AS noticeable as it is to the eye. But you can tell a difference. I'm happy with it so far. This was after about 10 minutes of work. If I went back to the fine grit sandpaper and cleaned them first they may look better. I'll do that later. I didn't even remove them from the knife to do this. After the better polish and in the right light I can see the translucency of c-tek much better. Still being a darker color it's not as apparent. On my next set I'll need to take more care even on the underside of the scales. Since you can see through it a bit youcan see the holes in the liners and the lock bar pivot pin. Using transparent material I can't hide any imperfections I don't normally care about because they aren't seen when the knife is back together.

    Jack
    PS
    I made these out of samples the company sent me. Now I can't find the box with the rest of the pieces. I don't know what I did with them when cleaning up for the holidays. NEVER CLEAN! My new motto.
    Last edited by jackknifeh; 12-27-2013 at 10:03 AM.

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

  6. #6
    Spyderco Forum Registered User xceptnl's Avatar
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    The difference is noticeable Jack. Looks good.
    My 's:
    Native, Manix 2 (BD1,154CM,S30V,M4,XHP,S110V,Cruwear), Delica 4 (White,Red,Brown,Blue,BRG,G-10), Spyderhawk, D'fly (H1,G-10,SB), Police3, Volpe, Military (S30V,XHP,D2,M390,BG42,440V,Cruwear), Superleafs, Forager, D2 Para, Kopas, Kiwis, Caly (JR's,3,3.5), Para2 (XHP,204P), Stretch (SS,FRN's,CF), Rescues, Dyad Jr, Pingos, Southard, AIR, Jess Horns, Forum N5, Lil Matriarch, Barong, Superhawk, Chinook II, ATR, SPY-DK, Captain, Ti UKPK, Mules

    *Landon*

  7. #7
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Kev83's Avatar
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    That c tek looks great! Good job!

  8. #8
    Spyderco Forum Registered User defenestrate's Avatar
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    The chicken wire-shaped pattern seems to react to the light much better after the polishing. Pretty cool! Thanks for sharing.
    I don't get mad. I get..Stabby.
    -Fat Tony

  9. #9
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Minibear453's Avatar
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    I use a green chromium oxide compound that I bought from Sears. I'm not sure if it makes a difference, but what I do is rub the compound all over the strop, and then use the stove to heat up the strop/compound until the compound essentially "melts." At this point I then use some paper towel to rub the compound into the strop.
    Carry a sharp knife, and life will never be dull

  10. #10
    Spyderco Forum Registered User
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    Those scales look great! A worthy investment of your time, especially if you're satisfied!

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