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Thread: Sharpening Methods for Spyderco's Unique Blades??

  1. #1
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    Question Sharpening Methods for Spyderco's Unique Blades??

    I'm wanting to pick the brains of many of you fellow sharpening fanatics. I've asked this question before but I'm still looking for answers. What are some of the methods you all use for sharpening many of Spyderco's ultra-unique blade styles?

    For instance the C-111 Captain, Plain edged Hawkbillls ( or serrated for that matter), Reverse S blades like the Dodo, Matriarch & Cricket PE or SE. Recurve blades like the Zulu, Adventura and Spyker?

    How do you alll sharpen blades with 2 types of edges like the C-46 Lum Tanto? Basically I'm wanting to know what methods you all have found useful and efficient for many of Spyderco's non-conventional blade types/styles and what sharpening tools, stones or strops and types of sharpening abrasives as well.

    Spyderco has blessed us with many different, unique and highly useful blades that you don't see other cutlery companies making available; but sharpening many of them are not easy on some of them.

    Also which Spyderco sharpening tools or stones do you use to get them sharp?

    I'm personally finding about 3 ways to sharpen the C-111 Captain and I'm constantly experimenting with ways to put razor edges on plain edged Hawkbills which I'm finding extremely challenging to really get razor sharp. Please list the model of Spyderco blade, the Spyderco sharpening tool you use and/or possibly other types of sharpening tools you have found to get these highly unusual blades sharp?
    Long Live the SPYDEREDGE Spyderco Hawkbills RULE!!

  2. #2
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Officer Gigglez's Avatar
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    I use a Gatco System on a Tasman, and I sharpen it as I would any straight blade, just adjust the position of the stone according to the blade angle.
    Spyderco Knives (in order of obtainment):
    -Tenacious G-10, Combo edge
    -Tasman Salt, PE
    -Persistence Limited Edition Blue G-10, PE
    -Pacific Salt, Black, PE
    -Delica 4, Grey FRN, Emerson Wave, PE
    -Karahawk collector's club #015, Custom Scales, Emerson Wave, PE
    -DiAlex Junior, G10, PE
    -Byrd SS Crossbill, PE, Custom Engraved

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    Quote Originally Posted by Officer Gigglez View Post
    I use a Gatco System on a Tasman, and I sharpen it as I would any straight blade, just adjust the position of the stone according to the blade angle.
    I've had some of GATCO's equipment in the past. I've heard that there clamping type sharpening rig is a decent unit and very useful for other types of blades including many different serration patterns. I have 2 of their small 4 inch dogbone type sharpeners and they do seem to work good on small blades and small woodworking tools.

    I take it that the TASMAN you are talking about in a plain edged version? That's interesting because here lately I've been trying to sharpen 2 of my plain edged Hawkbills and I truly find them sort of difficult to grind in the necessary relief to set up for the final finished edge. In the past I've always relied on the Spyderco 204 Sharpmaker but I'm also trying my skill with my Spyderco 701 Profile set which I've used with great success for serrated Hawkbills. Plain Edged Hawkbillls I'm truly finding to be a challenge when really dull. >> JD
    Long Live the SPYDEREDGE Spyderco Hawkbills RULE!!

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    Spyderco Forum Registered User Officer Gigglez's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JD Spydo View Post
    I've had some of GATCO's equipment in the past. I've heard that there clamping type sharpening rig is a decent unit and very useful for other types of blades including many different serration patterns. I have 2 of their small 4 inch dogbone type sharpeners and they do seem to work good on small blades and small woodworking tools.

    I take it that the TASMAN you are talking about in a plain edged version? That's interesting because here lately I've been trying to sharpen 2 of my plain edged Hawkbills and I truly find them sort of difficult to grind in the necessary relief to set up for the final finished edge. In the past I've always relied on the Spyderco 204 Sharpmaker but I'm also trying my skill with my Spyderco 701 Profile set which I've used with great success for serrated Hawkbills. Plain Edged Hawkbillls I'm truly finding to be a challenge when really dull. >> JD
    Yeah the Tasman is PE. I haven't had any issues yet, but my Tasman has not been extremely dull yet. I guess I can see an issue arising with those. Maybe try a simple whet stone over the sharpening systems?
    Spyderco Knives (in order of obtainment):
    -Tenacious G-10, Combo edge
    -Tasman Salt, PE
    -Persistence Limited Edition Blue G-10, PE
    -Pacific Salt, Black, PE
    -Delica 4, Grey FRN, Emerson Wave, PE
    -Karahawk collector's club #015, Custom Scales, Emerson Wave, PE
    -DiAlex Junior, G10, PE
    -Byrd SS Crossbill, PE, Custom Engraved

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    I've found the Worksharp to be a great tool for dealing with odd geometries. It's "sharpening" surface is so small that I can continuously adjust the angle with relative ease.

  6. #6
    Spyderco Forum Registered User xceptnl's Avatar
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    Joe,
    I continue to have good success with the DMT Aligner and their ACG stone (Aligner Curved Blade) as well as their serrated attachment when doing reprofiles (they are also great freehand). In addition I can't say enough good things about the 701MF Profile set. These tools are well worth 10x their weight when it comes to sharpening. 3 of the 4 sharpening implements that I just listed ride in my EDC bag 24/7/365 and always give me the confidence to know I can repair almost any edge. Images provided below for ease of understanding by all.



    My 's:
    Native, Manix 2 (BD1,154CM,S30V,M4,XHP), Delica 4 (White,Red,Brown,Blue,BRG,G-10), Spyderhawks, D'fly (H1,G-10), Police3, Volpe, Military (S30V[2],XHP,D2,M390,BG42,440V,Cruwear), Superleaf, Forager, D2 Para, Kopas, Caly (JR's,3,3.5-SB), D3, Para-2 (XHP,204P), Stretch (SS,FRN's,CF), Rescue, Dyad Jr, Pingo, Southard, AIR, Jess Horn, Forum N5, Lil Matriarch, Barong, Superhawk, Chinook II
    Mules> MT05,08,09,12,15,16,17, 18

    *Landon*

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    Quote Originally Posted by xceptnl View Post
    Joe,
    I continue to have good success with the DMT Aligner and their ACG stone (Aligner Curved Blade) as well as their serrated attachment when doing reprofiles (they are also great freehand). In addition I can't say enough good things about the 701MF Profile set. These tools are well worth 10x their weight when it comes to sharpening. 3 of the 4 sharpening implements that I just listed ride in my EDC bag 24/7/365 and always give me the confidence to know I can repair almost any edge. Images provided below for ease of understanding by all.




    I'm definitely going to get myself a DMT Aligner sharpening kit soon. I do want to learn more about it and what it is available with. With so many people preferring plain edged Hawkbills over the Spyderedged versions. And so few of the people who like them seem to know very little about sharpening them unforunately.

    I'm also wondering if that would be a good tool to do the C-111 Captain with? As well as recurves and Reverse S blades? I will definitely do some checking on the DMT Aligner system this weekend.
    Long Live the SPYDEREDGE Spyderco Hawkbills RULE!!

  8. #8
    Spyderco Forum Registered User xceptnl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JD Spydo View Post
    I'm definitely going to get myself a DMT Aligner sharpening kit soon. I do want to learn more about it and what it is available with. With so many people preferring plain edged Hawkbills over the Spyderedged versions. And so few of the people who like them seem to know very little about sharpening them unforunately.

    I'm also wondering if that would be a good tool to do the C-111 Captain with? As well as recurves and Reverse S blades? I will definitely do some checking on the DMT Aligner system this weekend.
    I do believe the ACG stone would HAVE been a great tool for sharpening the Captain. I say this because I have had great luck on my PE Tasman, PE Spyderhawk, and my recurve BM 635 Mini Skirmish (Neil Blackwood design). I think the curve is too wide for the dodo, but I never had the chance to try. The sad part is that I refered to the ACG in past tense as it was discontinued without my knowledge and I was unable to purchase backups. I'm sure it can still be found with some careful searches.

    The Aligner is a great system for what it is. If you want a small, compact, portable, guided sharpening system. It has limited angle offerings (like the Gatco and Lansky), yet I really love the product quality. The stones are also great, wet or dry as long as you don't venture into the Extra Extra Fine category hoping for mirror results (See jackknifeh and his recent threads). The serration tool is a great sharpening device as well and could serve for PE sharpening duties like the ACG, but with limited surface area, I would expect it to wear our sooner. One major downside I see to the DMT (or other) Aligner system is that the curved stone offerings only come in one grit. No polished mirror hawkbills unfortunately.
    My 's:
    Native, Manix 2 (BD1,154CM,S30V,M4,XHP), Delica 4 (White,Red,Brown,Blue,BRG,G-10), Spyderhawks, D'fly (H1,G-10), Police3, Volpe, Military (S30V[2],XHP,D2,M390,BG42,440V,Cruwear), Superleaf, Forager, D2 Para, Kopas, Caly (JR's,3,3.5-SB), D3, Para-2 (XHP,204P), Stretch (SS,FRN's,CF), Rescue, Dyad Jr, Pingo, Southard, AIR, Jess Horn, Forum N5, Lil Matriarch, Barong, Superhawk, Chinook II
    Mules> MT05,08,09,12,15,16,17, 18

    *Landon*

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    Spyderco Forum Registered User phillipsted's Avatar
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    JD - there is a nice WickedEdge stone for curved blades that was sold for a while, but I notice that it isn't on the WE site any more. I've also had good luck with temporarily mounting Spyderco tri-angle stones on blank WE paddles to work on serrations and recurves. It works reasonably well, although you have to have an angle cube to ensure you are getting the angle right.

    TedP


  10. #10
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Good info here IMO. For serrated edges I got the aligner blade clamp and the serrated sharpener fine grit. I think now DMT offers this serrated sharpener in 3 grits. It is great for serrated edges and is pretty simple to use and the hardest part (angle control) is done for you. Great option. For recurves I also have the curved surface DMT stone (but I don't have the stone holder) and it is great with the aligner system. I used it when I did have the stone holder and it works great. Other than that DMT does offere several recurve sharpening tools but I think they are all used free hand. If you get the aligner with the serrated sharpener try your darndest to find the recurve stone. Even call DMT and ask them about how to get one. They may have an extra one laying around. I actually got one this way but gave it away since I already had one. Very little hope for this I think though. The stone was literally in someone's desk and had been there unused for a couple years so he sent it to me. You call that a stroke of luck. The normal DMT aligner 4" stones are not good for recurves because you can't use the corners on diamond stones. You need curved surface stones for recurves or stones that can be used with the flat surface and corners both.

    I have never used a Sharpmaker but for recurve edges I can't think of a better system than the Sharpmaker (other than the DMT discontinued stone). What you need for recurves is narrow stones (like the Sharpmaker rods) and also stones that the corners and flat sides can be used both (like Spyderco rods). Actually all you need is the rods but the Sharpmaker base helps control the angle. The edge angles on recurves can be the same as any standard edge. Serrated edges are different since most have a bevel only on one side. The DMT aligner with serrated stone is perfect for this. Then all you need to do is remove the burr on the flat size. Actually, I believe the Sharpmaker overall is the best option for ALL edge types. I've never used it but I understand it. I suppose the DMT aligner and serrated stone could be used for recurves if you only have one or two that need sharpening very seldom.

    This is my opinion and I believe it strongly. The ways to sharpen these different type edges are somewhat limited but the choices we have are all workable. One reason people don't get good at sharpening these edges is they (I include me) get tired of trying to learn whatever tool is in their (my) hand. Then we either give up or buy a different tool and become equally as un-skilled with it. Personally, I don't have any serrated or recurve edges. The benifits of these edges don't do me any good so since I don't use them I haven't kept any. I've owned both. I've become adequate (at best) at sharpening them. It only takes practice to become good at it.

    Secret for sharpening these two type edges: Keep practicing. Now it's not a secret.

    Hope this helps.

    Jack
    PS
    As mentioned the 701 profile stones are top shelf for recurves and serrations both. But, like the DMT recurve stone they are discontinued. I guess I'm lucky because I have both. Not very skilled with them since now I don't have either type edge though. Oh yeah, the 4" DMT recurve stone can be used on the EP with a little rigging.
    My Manbug. (ZDP-189 shaped like Jester blade with red bone scales (11-12-2013)). This was previously the VG-10/G-10 w/bolsters Manbug. Knife nickname: FrankenManJester or FrankenJesterBug.

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    I'll admit that I haven't cut much with my Lum Tanto or Zulu because I didn't want to deal with sharpening the blade shape.

    I have used the corners of the SharpMaker on my hawbills, both PE and SE, and I think it worked well enough. Have also used the 701 Profiles as a file to touch up the serrations.
    Which Knife, A or B? get Both! (and C, D and E)

  12. #12
    Spyderco Forum Registered User xceptnl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodloos View Post
    ...Have also used the 701 Profiles as a file to touch up the serrations.
    This got me to thinking. Do you guys that use the 701 sets hold them and use them as rodloos described or do you lay them down and work the knife over the stone?
    My 's:
    Native, Manix 2 (BD1,154CM,S30V,M4,XHP), Delica 4 (White,Red,Brown,Blue,BRG,G-10), Spyderhawks, D'fly (H1,G-10), Police3, Volpe, Military (S30V[2],XHP,D2,M390,BG42,440V,Cruwear), Superleaf, Forager, D2 Para, Kopas, Caly (JR's,3,3.5-SB), D3, Para-2 (XHP,204P), Stretch (SS,FRN's,CF), Rescue, Dyad Jr, Pingo, Southard, AIR, Jess Horn, Forum N5, Lil Matriarch, Barong, Superhawk, Chinook II
    Mules> MT05,08,09,12,15,16,17, 18

    *Landon*

  13. #13
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xceptnl View Post
    This got me to thinking. Do you guys that use the 701 sets hold them and use them as rodloos described or do you lay them down and work the knife over the stone?
    I have the 701s but admit I haven't used them enough to establish a particular method. what I have done is hold one in one hand and the knife in the other. But for stability I think if I used them more I would take two pieces of wood and make a "stand" for each end and put them on a table. IMO this reduces the error possibility by 50%. Holding one hand still is hard enough to maintain angle accuracy. So,,, holding both hands at the correct angle has got to increase the inaccuracy by double. Just thinking.

    Jack
    My Manbug. (ZDP-189 shaped like Jester blade with red bone scales (11-12-2013)). This was previously the VG-10/G-10 w/bolsters Manbug. Knife nickname: FrankenManJester or FrankenJesterBug.

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    Quote Originally Posted by xceptnl View Post
    This got me to thinking. Do you guys that use the 701 sets hold them and use them as rodloos described or do you lay them down and work the knife over the stone?
    The great advantages to using the Spyderco 701 Profiles are their overall versatility. I've yet to find a blade I couldn't use the 701 Profile kit on. It really frustrates me that Spyderco never made them available in diamond. Because if I had a 701 Profile stone in diamond I know I could make an easy job of sharpening plain edged Hawkbills and full Spyderedged Hawkbills as well. I really was baffled that Spyderco discontinued the 701 Profiles. I do like the newer Goldenstone and Duckfoot units but neither one of them are nearly as versatile as the 701 Profiles are in my humble opinion>> and I base that opinion on hours of use and sharpening work I've done with my 701 Profile kits.

    I can also add the "Cat's Eye" stones that the old Spyderco Galley V Sharpening kit from the late 90s. I find the Cat's Eye stones to be the best sharpening tool by far for the Dodo, Matriarch and other Reverse S models. I've also had reasonable success for my C-111 CAptain using the Cat's Eye stones.

    I'm still doing a lot of experimenting with my Spyderco SLIPSTONE. I just wish they would offer the Slipstone in other grits and grades. Because with woodworking tools that stone has a lot of possibilities.
    Long Live the SPYDEREDGE Spyderco Hawkbills RULE!!

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    Plain edge hawkbills? They are to hawkbills what steers are to the bovine world...

  16. #16
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JD Spydo View Post
    The great advantages to using the Spyderco 701 Profiles are their overall versatility. I've yet to find a blade I couldn't use the 701 Profile kit on.
    The versatility of the 701 set is probably why I don't use them. THey can be used as a bench stone but aren't as good a tool as a bench stone. I even prefer 3" wide stones to 2" wide bench stones. They can be used to sharpen serrated edges but aren't the best tool for that IMO. The best tool is a DMT blade clamp and the DMt serrated stone. The 701s can be used to sharpen recurve knives but aren't the best tool available. IMO the EP with 1/2" wide stones is the best. Even the 1" wide stones do great on recurves with not so drastic a curve. So why do I keep my 701 set?

    They sharpen serrated edges. The only serrated edge I own is the kitchen bread knife that we never use. And, I have the DMT setup for serrated edges that I prefer because of angle control.

    They sharpen recurves. I don't own any recurve knives and I have an EP with the proper stones.

    They can be used as standard bench stones. I have normal size bench stones.

    Most times one tool that is so good at a lot of things is not the BEST tool for any singlee one of them. IMO the BEST thing about the 701s is the ability to sharpen about any style knife and easily carried. So for anyone traveling or in the woods or for some reason don't want to carry their EP, DMT stuff and a set of med. and fine grit Spyderco bench stones the 701s are the PERFECT tool. They are really great. I have used them enough for all these blades and they do work. I don't use them because I have the preferred options (for me) and I don't go in the woods any more I'm sorry to say and it doesn't look like I'll be traveling any more. So I almost feel guilty keeping them hidden away in a tool box. I'm going to give some thought to situations I may get into that would require them and I don't have another sharpening tool that would do the job. I like to keep great tools even if I don't use them because once in 3 blue moons I will need them for some unusual sharpening situation. I'm going to consider letting them go. Don't ask to buy them. I am not that sure. Well, if you want to offer $500 give it a shot. I MIGHT sell them. One thing is almost certain. If I don't have them I will need them.

    Maybe Spyderco will make a batch of the 701s some day. Based on the posts in this forum they would certainly sell a bunch. But I have wondered what percentage of Spyderco's sales are represented by the input in this forum. THey would probably sell about 30 sets to folks in this forum for actual use, buy them now or never, give as gifts, etc. But would these sales be worth running a batch as far as money is concerned. I have no idea. I'm sure there are resellers that would buy a bunch to re-sell over time. ebay sellers too. Whatcha think Spyderco dudes and dudettes?

    Jack
    My Manbug. (ZDP-189 shaped like Jester blade with red bone scales (11-12-2013)). This was previously the VG-10/G-10 w/bolsters Manbug. Knife nickname: FrankenManJester or FrankenJesterBug.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackknifeh View Post
    The versatility of the 701 set is probably why I don't use them. THey can be used as a bench stone but aren't as good a tool as a bench stone. I even prefer 3" wide stones to 2" wide bench stones. They can be used to sharpen serrated edges but aren't the best tool for that IMO. The best tool is a DMT blade clamp and the DMt serrated stone. The 701s can be used to sharpen recurve knives but aren't the best tool available. IMO the EP with 1/2" wide stones is the best. Even the 1" wide stones do great on recurves with not so drastic a curve. So why do I keep my 701 set?

    They sharpen serrated edges. The only serrated edge I own is the kitchen bread knife that we never use. And, I have the DMT setup for serrated edges that I prefer because of angle control.

    They sharpen recurves. I don't own any recurve knives and I have an EP with the proper stones.

    They can be used as standard bench stones. I have normal size bench stones.

    Most times one tool that is so good at a lot of things is not the BEST tool for any singlee one of them. IMO the BEST thing about the 701s is the ability to sharpen about any style knife and easily carried. So for anyone traveling or in the woods or for some reason don't want to carry their EP, DMT stuff and a set of med. and fine grit Spyderco bench stones the 701s are the PERFECT tool.

    Jack
    OK Jack with all due respect and I'm not at all trying to be confrontational or disagreeable per se at all. But if you've got another sharpening tool that can manually put a superior edge on serrated, Spyderedged or serrations in general I would sure like to know what it is. Not to mention the fact that the 701 Profiles keep the serrated edges and/or Spyderedges looking exactly like they came from the factory better than anything I've used up till now.

    Because the problem I've had all along with the 204 Sharpmaker and other controlled type systems like it sharpening Spyderedged and serrated blades in general is that the unit tends to deform and alter the edge geometry from what it was when it came directly from the factory. With the 701 Profiles I've been able to get any of my Spyderedged Hawkbills, Spyderedged Rescue type blades and just serrated blades in general super sharp just like they came from the factory without altering the original serration pattern from the factory.

    I am definitely going to check out the DMT "Aligner" system for plain edged Hawkbills, the C-111 Captain ( which is a Hawkbill of sorts) and my Spyderco recurve blades along with my "reverse S" Spyderco blades to see if that unit will do a superior job.

    But if there is a better manual tool that is portable for field use and precision use for Spyderedges that will outperform the 701 Profiles I sure want to know about it. I do also wish the 701 Profiles would have also been available in diamond and ultra fine along with the 2 grits they have now.

    I tried a lot of manual tools on Spyderedges and serrated edges in general but when I mastered and learned the proper usage of the 701 Profiles I never looked back and I've yet to try any other manual sharpening tool that can do better on Spyderedges than the 701 Profiles can. But what the heck I'm always open to anything new that will work better. Because Spyderedges like plain edges perform so much better when the are well honed.

    I would also like to hear more input on "recurves" and "reverse S" type blades as well. Hope you all had a great holiday>> JD
    Long Live the SPYDEREDGE Spyderco Hawkbills RULE!!

  18. #18
    Spyderco Forum Registered User paladin's Avatar
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    I remember a couple of years back someone posting that The Sharpmaker could more accurately be called "The SharpKEEPER" because it shines at edge touch-ups. Not trying to be a smarta** here, but I would just send in any unusual blade ala Zulu, Captain, Kris to Golden for a factory resharpening. I find it easy to touch up my Spyderedged Delica on the Sharpmaker, but I have sent it in once about 2 years ago for a new factory edge and I was VERY PLEASED with the result. It was a little hard to admit to myself (at first) that I could not recapture that factory Spyderedge on my own, but I got over it pretty fast, YMMV. Great thread!
    Have Kiwi, will travel...wire Paladin...Hotel Carlton, San Francisco

  19. #19
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JD Spydo View Post
    OK Jack with all due respect and I'm not at all trying to be confrontational or disagreeable per se at all. But if you've got another sharpening tool that can manually put a superior edge on serrated, Spyderedged or serrations in general I would sure like to know what it is. Not to mention the fact that the 701 Profiles keep the serrated edges and/or Spyderedges looking exactly like they came from the factory better than anything I've used up till now.

    Because the problem I've had all along with the 204 Sharpmaker and other controlled type systems like it sharpening Spyderedged and serrated blades in general is that the unit tends to deform and alter the edge geometry from what it was when it came directly from the factory. With the 701 Profiles I've been able to get any of my Spyderedged Hawkbills, Spyderedged Rescue type blades and just serrated blades in general super sharp just like they came from the factory without altering the original serration pattern from the factory.

    I am definitely going to check out the DMT "Aligner" system for plain edged Hawkbills, the C-111 Captain ( which is a Hawkbill of sorts) and my Spyderco recurve blades along with my "reverse S" Spyderco blades to see if that unit will do a superior job.

    But if there is a better manual tool that is portable for field use and precision use for Spyderedges that will outperform the 701 Profiles I sure want to know about it. I do also wish the 701 Profiles would have also been available in diamond and ultra fine along with the 2 grits they have now.

    I tried a lot of manual tools on Spyderedges and serrated edges in general but when I mastered and learned the proper usage of the 701 Profiles I never looked back and I've yet to try any other manual sharpening tool that can do better on Spyderedges than the 701 Profiles can. But what the heck I'm always open to anything new that will work better. Because Spyderedges like plain edges perform so much better when the are well honed.

    I would also like to hear more input on "recurves" and "reverse S" type blades as well. Hope you all had a great holiday>> JD
    You are not confrontational at all. And the respect due me is always in question. I don't know of ANY manual tool that is better than the 701s for serrated, spyderedge, recurve edges. The problem I have is maintaining angle consistancy when using them. So really, the problem is me. With practice I'd fall more in love with the 701s than I am. I see how great they are just by the little I've used them. But being proficient is not something I can claim. For serrated edges I use the DMT aligner with the serrated sharpener. The aligner has given settings with angle numbers but by it's design the blade clamp is more forgiving regarding these numbers because it's plastic. By tightening the screw that tightens the clamp FARTHER that it needs to be to hold the balde, the plastic bends, increasing the angle a bit. Can't go too far or it will break but there is some variance in the angle numbers assigned to the slots in the rods. Anyway I can set it and do micro bevels on the only serrated knife i have. A 10" bread knife with all the serrations the same size, BIG. I have bought and then sold so many sharpening stones to buy another stone trying to find what I like and also sold or traded great knives (blue Stretch, MW for example) just because they didn't make it into my pocket very often just to have extra cash to buy and try another knife. Still, I haven't sold, traded or given away my 701s because I wanted money to buy another stone or because I don't use them. Even though I don't have a real need for them because of the knives I have (no serrations) I still haven't been able to let them go. I don't even have the leather case. I got them cheap with no case on ebay. I use an EP for re-profiling so I can start with a known angle instead of re-profiling on bench stones. It's the same inability to maintain an angle with the 701s that made me choose to buy the DMT blade clamp for serrated edges. I already had the DMT serrated tool and aligner rod. I have thought about starting a thread as a contest to give away my 701s just because I don't use them and so many others would. Just never came up with a contest theme. Maybe the best crybaby plea for a set of 701s. Any contest ideas?

    Jack
    My Manbug. (ZDP-189 shaped like Jester blade with red bone scales (11-12-2013)). This was previously the VG-10/G-10 w/bolsters Manbug. Knife nickname: FrankenManJester or FrankenJesterBug.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackknifeh View Post
    You are not confrontational at all. And the respect due me is always in question. I don't know of ANY manual tool that is better than the 701s for serrated, spyderedge, recurve edges. The problem I have is maintaining angle consistancy when using them. So really, the problem is me. With practice I'd fall more in love with the 701s than I am. I see how great they are just by the little I've used them. But being proficient is not something I can claim. For serrated edges I use the DMT aligner with the serrated sharpener.

    Jack
    That's a great point and one that needs to be discussed i.e. "ANGLE CONSISTENCY". Because "angle consistency" is truly a major factor in any kind of sharpening job. When using a manual sharpening tool of any variety whether it be benchstones, diamond impregnated rods or any sharpening tool that requires the person using them to be accurate. Because just like playing on a billard table, playing golf or playing a musical instrument they all have one thing in common>> and that is honing the skills required to be proficient at it. And sharpening does indeed require skills to be adequate at sharpening any edged tool. When I first learned how to use many of the sharpening tools I current use I indeed practiced a lot and I mean many many hours of intense practice before I got decent at it on a consistent basis. So your point of angle consistency is truly paramount when discussing specialized sharpening jobs and really tops the list in requirements for any type of sharpening chore.

    Even using clamp on systems like your DMT Aligner or a fixed angle sharpening system like the Spyderco 204 Sharpmaker even require a lot of practice to become reliably consistent at the skill. Even the best designed of all of these fixed angle systems require a person to develop their skills before using them. I can't tell you how many cheap kitchen blades I went through before I got the hang of sharpening plain edged blades on the 204 Sharpmaker. It truly took me about a month of practice before I got to where I could use the 204 Sharpmaker with very reliable results. There are tricks of any trade or skill so to speak and there are certainly many tricks and methods to proficient sharpening without any doubt. Just because those 2 systems are fixed angles doesn't mean that any moron with a single digit I.Q. can immediately start using the tool with professional results. I'm looking forward to getting either a "Wicked Edge" or "Edge Pro" sharpening system in the next year and I already know it's going to take a few hours to get good at using either one of them.

    I guess the main reason I started this thread was to pick the brains of my Spyder Brothers & Sisters to see what methods you all may have come across in sharpening non-conventional styles of blade designs. I'm sort of surprised that this thread is only getting the attention of very few people because I thought we had many more sharpening enthusiasts than what I see so far. To me owning any blade that you don't have the ability to maintain it and keep it sharp is next to useless. Because any knife or edged tool is only as good as it is sharp.

    Again I am definitely going to check out the DMT Aligner System as well as some of DMT's manual sharpening tools for these types of blades.
    Last edited by JD Spydo; 12-27-2013 at 05:35 AM.
    Long Live the SPYDEREDGE Spyderco Hawkbills RULE!!

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