Steel

[maa14]

Ok, I know that everyone likes to try out different steels and see if they chip or roll or to see the edge retention or ease of sharpening. Well, I was wondering what everyones favorite steel was AS OF NOW so, please put the name of your favorite steel and why. Thanks

I will start...M390(subject to change)-it is not extremely hard to sharpen, takes a great edge,holds it for a long time and it dosent chip unless used pretty roughly.

[razorsharp]

M390- Easy to sharpen, hold an edge for a LONG time, it takes massive abuse before it chips, very corrosion resistant and tough for the amount of edge retention it has. I have cut thick aluminium and tin and got minor rolls.

[chuck_roxas45]

I don't really have a favorite but there are steels that I really like.

5160-I have been using this steel since I can remember. Local(to me) smiths's get it from leaf spring steel. It's a really tough steel that takes very fine edges. Failure mode is mostly rolling but some smiths do tend to HT it harder and you might get chipping.

52100-When I became aware that some knives are better than others, I realized that some smiths made knives out of bearing and bearing race steel. These we sought after knives. It was mostly the cooks and cooking enthusiasts who sought after these knives. Then there were the bali makers. The best makers also used bearing steel for their balis and to "test" their knives, they stabbed a large coin. If the point went through without damage, it was a good one. I do think now that it had more to do with geometry than the steel.

Then come the steels I discovered and was able to experience from going on the forums.

VG-10, S30V, 20CP, M390, XHP, ZDP, CPM-M4, Super Blue and 3V. As Sal is wont to say, all good just different or some such.

We are really lucky to have such a selection of steels in production knives and Spyderco has spoiled us steelheads and wannabe steelheads.

[Stuart Ackerman]

VG10...I have made most of my knives with Bohler N690, and some in VG10, which is the closest in make-up...
I will now work with VG10 more and more no doubt...

It does not chip at 59C on the Rockwell scale, and is easy to sharpen, and it's edge holding is more than adequate for the way I use knives...

I do own knives in other so-called super steels, but VG10 is the best I need...

[Ankerson]

CPM S110V - Very aggressive cutter, holds an edge forever, very stain resistant, not chippy, takes a very fine edge.

[The Deacon]

Of steels Spyderco has used, VG-10. Takes an edge easily, holds it well enough that I've never needed to resharpen in the middle of cutting stuff, and has very good rust resistance. It's also relatively inexpensive and, for me, that's a good quality in a steel that adds nothing to the looks of a knife. Of steels I've used, Devin Thomas Raindrop Damascus. Holds an edge about as well as VG-10, takes one about as easily, and looks at least a thousand times better to me. I know I'm the exception, or at least one of the few here who feels this way, but I'd much rather pay for looks I can enjoy every time I hold a knife than for yet another monochromatic grey blade with a level of performance that I don't need and which almost always comes at the expense of sharpening ease.

[kbuzbee]

My favorite steel to date is CPM-M4. There's something about the quality of the edge I get with it that makes it perform better (for me) that anything else I've tried. And it holds that edge plenty long for my uses.

I love Super Blue too, but M4 gets the nod.

Ken

[jackknifeh]

My experience with a lot of different steels is very limited. So you will know what I judge by this is what I've used enough to form an opinion. AUS-8, 8Cr13MoV, ZDP-189, VG-10 (from Spyderco), VG-10 (from another company), S30V, CPM-M4. I mentioned VG-10 twice because the edge retention from the two companies was like two different steels.

My favorites of the above are M4 and S30V. I have no problem sharpening either. M4 holds an edge longer than S30V but S30V holds an edge far longer than what I would call acceptable for me. So, edge retention is great on both IMO. The only drawback for M4 is it is not a stainless steel and more prone to corrosion. But, given my use of knives and the corrosion prevention products available rust has never been a problem and never will be IMO. I mentioned having two favorites because one is stainless and one is not.

VG-10 is a great steel and the first I used that was supposed to be a super-steel and at one time was my favorite. I'll buy knives with VG-10 all day long and be happy with the steel. What is important is that my opinion of my favorite steel will change as often as my favorite knife will. The only new steel (to me) I have plans for is CTS-XHP on the Titanium Chaparral (soon I hope). I'm having high hopes for it but that's a lot to ask given the better steels I have had use of in the past 5 years. I wonder what it would be like to jump from my $10 knife ten years ago to M4 or XHP?

Jack

[The Mastiff]

I'd be lucky to get it down to 10.
Not in any order.


VG10
BG42
S90V
S110V
CPM M4
Super Blue
52100
O-1
W2
Cruwear
3V
M2/M3-1

I could just keep going on.

[Ankerson]

I'd be lucky to get it down to 10.
Not in any order.


VG10
BG42
S90V
S110V
CPM M4
Super Blue
52100
O-1
W2
Cruwear
3V
M2/M3-1

I could just keep going on.

I know what you mean.

I narrowed it down to S110V because I believe it takes all the best qualities of all the different steels and wraps them all into one, and it's very stainless to boot.

Take the stainless out and I would pick K294 (A11/10V).

Now we are talking about folders here....

So how tough does the steel really have to be in a 3" to 4" folder?

Sure we could have 3V, but we lose edge retention and stainless to get that toughness that most would never really need.

We could go with something like VG-10, very stainless, but we lose edge retention again.

Something like M4, does OK, but not very stainless so why would one settle for that when there are better steels that are stainless with even better edge retention? And why would one settle for M4 when 10V is available and we are talking about folders, not 10" choppers.

Easy to sharpen also means the steel dulls fast, no free lunch here as we all know so I won't even talk about the low alloy steels like 52100 or 1095 for folders or small fixed blades.

Yes the high alloy steels are harder to sharpen if you let them get dull.......... IF YOU LET THEM GET DULL......... Touch them up every once in awhile is all that is really needed.

With all the steels in the middle ground edge retention wise S30V really gives the best balance of those, that and ELMAX.

So we take all of that taking all the best qualities and we are right back to S110V.

So that's my logic anyway.

[jackknifeh]

I'd be lucky to get it down to 10.
Not in any order.


VG10
BG42
S90V
S110V
CPM M4
Super Blue
52100
O-1
W2
Cruwear
3V
M2/M3-1

I could just keep going on.

I find this curious and interesting. I have only been learning about better quality knives, steel, etc. for around 5 years. Before that I knew there were two different choices for a pocket knife. SS and not SS. So when I started looking for better knives (and found Spyderco) I was immediately amazed at the different choices that would and still do meet my initial desire in a better knife, more edge retention. Any of the above steels I'm sure would make anyone happy as far as an EDC knife is concerned. Even some of the more picky people who frequent knife forums. I went to a car dealership with a friend (girl) when I was in HS and she looked at cars and never once asked anything about the engine. I bet there are people somewhere who don't even think about asking what steel the blade is made of when looking for a good knife. In fact I remember those days.

Jack

[kbuzbee]

I bet there are people somewhere who don't even think about asking what steel the blade is made of when looking for a good knife. In fact I remember those days.

As can I, but I think I was around 10 years old I've been steel addicted ever since, learning and trying whatever I could find (and afford) I have knives that hold an edge longer than M4, certainly ones that are more corrosion resistant. I like them fine, but none give me the same quality of edge, if that makes any sense? It could well be a comment on my sharpening skills rather than the steel. Dunno. But for me, M4 is the top I've tried. There are several I'd love to give a chance to unseat it.

Ken

[chuck_roxas45]

Maybe it's easier for me to list what I don't like.

8Cr13Mov.

[xceptnl]

VG-10
N690Co
Cruwear
M390
CPM-D2
S90V
CPM-M4
154CM (Still want to try the CPM154)
Super Blue
CTS-XHP

It is hard to decide with so many advantages to each of them. If I had to choose only one steel to use for the rest of my life I think it would be CPM-D2 or CTS-XHP. They are easy to sharpen and hold an edge long enough for me. I am not going to be away from the strop or profile rod long enough for them to get dull.

[Blerv]

Zdp-189: variety and cost of entry into the super-steel world.

[Donut]

M390 and ZDP and VG-10 because they are in my pockets right now.

[dj moonbat]

I've got ADHD, and I also love sharp edges. Ergo, VG-10 is basically impossible to beat. With zero concentration, and two minutes' time, I have a wildly sharp edge. The fact that it won't last as long as even superer super steels can go doesn't matter much to me. The sharpening is so easy, I probably still spend much less total time maintaining VG-10 than its steroid-using brethren.

[Ankerson]

I've got ADHD, and I also love sharp edges. Ergo, VG-10 is basically impossible to beat. With zero concentration, and two minutes' time, I have a wildly sharp edge. The fact that it won't last as long as even superer super steels can go doesn't matter much to me. The sharpening is so easy, I probably still spend much less total time maintaining VG-10 than its steroid-using brethren.

Actually you would spend a lot more time and be removing a lot more metal over the same period of time with VG-10 over something like S90V.

[dj moonbat]

Actually you would spend a lot more time and be removing a lot more metal over the same period of time with VG-10 over something like S90V.

Yeah, but I can afford to buy TWO knives in VG-10, so I don't have to worry about removing too much.

Seriously, it's not like VG-10 is just "easier to sharpen" than the likes of S90V, at least to me. It takes me several times as long to get a satisfactory edge on one of these really high Vanadium jobbies. VG-10 is never, ever more than 5 minutes. Maybe 10-15 strokes a side on each grit.

I understand, dude: you're a connoisseur. It was worth it to you to put in the hours learning how to tame burly steel. It's not even remotely worth it for me. I also don't feel like owning a Ferrari, even though it's clearly a superior machine to my Mazda M-3. But for people like me, a low maintenance burden is very, very high on our list of requirements. You can belittle me for thinking that way, but I would prefer you did not.

[Ankerson]

Yeah, but I can afford to buy TWO knives in VG-10, so I don't have to worry about removing too much.

Seriously, it's not like VG-10 is just "easier to sharpen" than the likes of S90V, at least to me. It takes me several times as long to get a satisfactory edge on one of these really high Vanadium jobbies. VG-10 is never, ever more than 5 minutes. Maybe 10-15 strokes a side on each grit.

I understand, dude: you're a connoisseur. It was worth it to you to put in the hours learning how to tame burly steel. It's not even remotely worth it for me. I also don't feel like owning a Ferrari, even though it's clearly a superior machine to my Mazda M-3. But for people like me, a low maintenance burden is very, very high on our list of requirements. You can belittle me for thinking that way, but I would prefer you did not.

It really doesn't take more than seconds to touch up steels like S90V and S110V..

An example:


I use S110V @ 65 HRC in the kitchen.... And I went 6 months without touching the edge, that's using it pretty much everyday and it was still very sharp, would still slice through TP easy. It finally started to lose some bite so I touched up the edge on a Spyderco fine ceramic file..... That's freehand, not a sharpmaker... It took me all of 10 seconds, like 3 passes on each side and it was screaming sharp again.

So if I have to touch that edge maybe twice a year, if that and it might take all of 20 seconds total edge maintenance...