Fill me in!

[NavBrat97]

Hey guys! I am only 14, but I am in love with knives, however, when it comes to knfe steel, and types of grinds, i draw a blank....However when it comes to talking about a knife in general, I know my way around it, but the steel....ehhh...
So, what I am asking is, would one, or all of you fill me in on your own opinions on knife steels, grinds, and angles? For instance, what is a microbevel, what is a scandi gride?
Thanks guys, I really appreciate your help in increasing my knife knowledge!

[chuck_roxas45]

Google makes up half my IQ points.

Welcome to the forums!

Here's a start but there's so much really.

[Clip]

There's a ton of reading on Spyderco's Edge-u-cation section, take a look!

[maa14]

A microbevel is when, let's say you sharpen your knife at 30 degrees inclusive but you want more strength on your edge and a longer lasting edge(depends on angles) then you sharpen at 40 degrees inclusive very lightly and then your actual edge angle will be at 40 degrees inclusive. The actual bevel of that edge is barely visible, if not, invisible to the naked eye and this is your microbevel. Also the microbevel is great because when you sharpen at a lower angle, then make a microbevel at a higher angle, you basically are getting the strength of that microbevel(the higher angle) but you are also getting the cutting proformance of that lower angle(the main bevel/back bevel). And by the way, I am also 14

[razorsharp]

Learning about steel takes research and personal use, it would take me weeks to explain steel to you . I can give you a basic info on some steels.

H1 has fairly low edge retention in plain edge (pe) and tops the charts when serrated (se). It is completely corrosion proof unless you stick it in strong chemicals. It is a tough steel, that means it will bend before snapping and means the edge would roll rather than chip if you were cutting, say, a cardboard box.

8cr13mov has a bit more edge retention, can rust if abused, is commonly found in chinese knives from reputable knife companies.

Vg10 is very corrosion resistant, takes a keen edge and holds that initial edge for a long time, it is premium steel, used in kitchen knives cause it will hold an edge and only chip if it cuts something hard. That trait it good for pocket knives that are used to cut rough stuff.

S30v a steel produced with powder metallurgy, takes a keen edge because the carbides are formed very cleanly. Because of the amount of carbides, it has good bite, its very corrosion resistant, doesn't hold its initial edge as long as vg10 but holds its working edge a lot longer, holds it's overall edge longer than vg10. It is very good for cutting abrasive materials, the carbides tear from the edge pretty much giving you a saw edge that will cut when dull.

154cm : similar performance to vg10 but made in usa

N690 similar performance to 154cm and vg10 with a tad more edge retention

ZDP189: Uber edge retention, HARD steel, can be chippy though, hard to sharpen

M390: Ubererrer edge retention, doesnt chip unless you abuse it BAD, pretty easy to sharpen, very very stainless. Holds an edge longer than S90v if taken to 62HRC

S90v: slightly more edge retention than M390 , harder to sharpen and not as tough though


I suppose that clarifies most of spydercos regular steel and some more exotic ones

[Blerv]

The best thing I could recommend is hanging out and reading a bit of our opinions and never be timid to form/tell us yours. These are very subjective tools so one steel/grind will not make everyone happy.

I tend to compare the model that interests me with others of that category. Say you want a heavier duty chore knife or a slicer. You won't see a Sage in ZDP-189 but the Caly3 is available in it. The Superleaf and Centofante3 are both VG10 but the edges are night and day different.

Lastly know that there are few "better" and far more "different" in this world. Things that are archaic tend to be phased out so even non-super steels and hollow grinds have their place.

Ps: Also the game of jargon is hardly well defined. So many opinions and different names for the same thing it's confusing. Once they throw "modified" in front of the blade shape look out!

[jackknifeh]

I'm no expert but my thoughts on blade steels:

8Cr13MoV is a pretty standard value price blade steel. Better than you will see on most $10 knives and definately usable.

H1 is a good steel and won't rust which would be a consideration if you will use it a lot around water, especially salt water. If not, I'd go with something else. That is unless you just want a particular knife and it has H1.

VG-10 is real real good.

S30V I like better for edge holding.

M4 I like even better for edge holding. It is not a stainless steel so a little more effort needs to be applied for corrosion control, but it's no big deal. Not the steel for using on a salt water fishing trip.

The best way go get suggestions on a particular knife you want to buy is to include what you will be using the knife for. Are you going camping or opening letters, etc.

Welcome to the forum and like others have mentioned, feel free to ask questions.

Jack

[sal]

Hi NavBrat,

Welcome to the Spyderco forum.

Passion for knives at your age is a good thing. Blade Steels and understanding them is a long time education. Little by little, it makes more sense. Keep with it.

sal

[dbcad]

Welcome Navbrat This is a friendly place

Previous posts have covered most of the basics. There is no better or worse blade material in Spyderco knives, only different.

Further understanding comes not only from experience, but knowledge. Learn your math and physics well, it will only help you in the future and increase your understanding. It seems you are already a very articulate young man.

What kind of steel or grind you would want depends on the use the knife would get. VG-10 or 154CM strike me as good all purpose materials. You got a good overview of different materials above. All have different strengths and weaknesses.

Enjoy your learning I'm still learning myself, everyday

[chuck_roxas45]

Welcome Navbrat This is a friendly place

Previous posts have covered most of the basics. There is no better or worse blade material in Spyderco knives, only different.

Further understanding comes not only from experience, but knowledge. Learn your math and physics well, it will only help you in the future and increase your understanding. It seems you are already a very articulate young man.

What kind of steel or grind you would want depends on the use the knife would get. VG-10 or 154CM strike me as good all purpose materials. You got a good overview of different materials above. All have different strengths and weaknesses.

Enjoy your learning I'm still learning myself, everyday

Do we ever stop learning about knives and steels and sharpening DB? I know I will never learn everything there is to know. Half the fun is the quest for the knowledge and the other half is using the knives.

[dbcad]

Completely agreed Chuck It's so true that the learning never stops, it only gets better

[chuck_roxas45]

Completely agreed Chuck It's so true that the learning never stops, it only gets better

Oh yeh!

[NavBrat97]

Haha! At least it gives you some knowledge! Thanks for the picture, this actually helped me out more than you could know! thanks!

Google makes up half my IQ points.

Welcome to the forums!

Here's a start but there's so much really.

[NavBrat97]

On my way now! Thanks for the reply!

There's a ton of reading on Spyderco's Edge-u-cation section, take a look!

[NavBrat97]

Woah! Thanks for that info! Very well said! Nice to see some other younger guys with a such a passion for knives!
Thanks!

A microbevel is when, let's say you sharpen your knife at 30 degrees inclusive but you want more strength on your edge and a longer lasting edge(depends on angles) then you sharpen at 40 degrees inclusive very lightly and then your actual edge angle will be at 40 degrees inclusive. The actual bevel of that edge is barely visible, if not, invisible to the naked eye and this is your microbevel. Also the microbevel is great because when you sharpen at a lower angle, then make a microbevel at a higher angle, you basically are getting the strength of that microbevel(the higher angle) but you are also getting the cutting proformance of that lower angle(the main bevel/back bevel). And by the way, I am also 14

[NavBrat97]

Dang! I suppose I have a lot to learn! Thanks for such a long, patient post, I really appreciate it! you hepled me out a lot! I have 2 deloca 4's, with VG-10, and from what I can tell, it is an amazing steel so far! As for 8Cr10MoV, ehh, I have a persistence, and a tenacious, and they already have a few rust speckles on them...
Thanks once again!

Learning about steel takes research and personal use, it would take me weeks to explain steel to you . I can give you a basic info on some steels.

H1 has fairly low edge retention in plain edge (pe) and tops the charts when serrated (se). It is completely corrosion proof unless you stick it in strong chemicals. It is a tough steel, that means it will bend before snapping and means the edge would roll rather than chip if you were cutting, say, a cardboard box.

8cr13mov has a bit more edge retention, can rust if abused, is commonly found in chinese knives from reputable knife companies.

Vg10 is very corrosion resistant, takes a keen edge and holds that initial edge for a long time, it is premium steel, used in kitchen knives cause it will hold an edge and only chip if it cuts something hard. That trait it good for pocket knives that are used to cut rough stuff.

S30v a steel produced with powder metallurgy, takes a keen edge because the carbides are formed very cleanly. Because of the amount of carbides, it has good bite, its very corrosion resistant, doesn't hold its initial edge as long as vg10 but holds its working edge a lot longer, holds it's overall edge longer than vg10. It is very good for cutting abrasive materials, the carbides tear from the edge pretty much giving you a saw edge that will cut when dull.

154cm : similar performance to vg10 but made in usa

N690 similar performance to 154cm and vg10 with a tad more edge retention

ZDP189: Uber edge retention, HARD steel, can be chippy though, hard to sharpen

M390: Ubererrer edge retention, doesnt chip unless you abuse it BAD, pretty easy to sharpen, very very stainless. Holds an edge longer than S90v if taken to 62HRC

S90v: slightly more edge retention than M390 , harder to sharpen and not as tough though


I suppose that clarifies most of spydercos regular steel and some more exotic ones

[NavBrat97]

I guess i'll just lurk around the forums! Thanks for the info! i really appreciate your help!

The best thing I could recommend is hanging out and reading a bit of our opinions and never be timid to form/tell us yours. These are very subjective tools so one steel/grind will not make everyone happy.

I tend to compare the model that interests me with others of that category. Say you want a heavier duty chore knife or a slicer. You won't see a Sage in ZDP-189 but the Caly3 is available in it. The Superleaf and Centofante3 are both VG10 but the edges are night and day different.

Lastly know that there are few "better" and far more "different" in this world. Things that are archaic tend to be phased out so even non-super steels and hollow grinds have their place.

Ps: Also the game of jargon is hardly well defined. So many opinions and different names for the same thing it's confusing. Once they throw "modified" in front of the blade shape look out!

[chuck_roxas45]

Dang! I suppose I have a lot to learn! Thanks for such a long, patient post, I really appreciate it! you hepled me out a lot! I have 2 deloca 4's, with VG-10, and from what I can tell, it is an amazing steel so far! As for 8Cr10MoV, ehh, I have a persistence, and a tenacious, and they already have a few rust speckles on them...
Thanks once again!

I have a few steels that I really like that are non stainless doesn't make them "ehh". It's just a matter of taking care of your tools. While VG-10 is one of my favorites, I'd surely take M4 and Super Blue over it.

[NavBrat97]

Thanks for all that information! i have VG-10, and 8Cr13MoV, and you said the description perfectly! Thanks again, and also, cute grandson :
)

I'm no expert but my thoughts on blade steels:

8Cr13MoV is a pretty standard value price blade steel. Better than you will see on most $10 knives and definately usable.

H1 is a good steel and won't rust which would be a consideration if you will use it a lot around water, especially salt water. If not, I'd go with something else. That is unless you just want a particular knife and it has H1.

VG-10 is real real good.

S30V I like better for edge holding.

M4 I like even better for edge holding. It is not a stainless steel so a little more effort needs to be applied for corrosion control, but it's no big deal. Not the steel for using on a salt water fishing trip.

The best way go get suggestions on a particular knife you want to buy is to include what you will be using the knife for. Are you going camping or opening letters, etc.

Welcome to the forum and like others have mentioned, feel free to ask questions.

Jack

[NavBrat97]

Thanks for such a warm welcome!

Hi NavBrat,

Welcome to the Spyderco forum.

Passion for knives at your age is a good thing. Blade Steels and understanding them is a long time education. Little by little, it makes more sense. Keep with it.

sal