The showdown: Edge Pro vs. H1/Hawkbill/SE Ladybug (lol)

[Evil D]

Ok. School me. How the heck do i sharpen this tiny little miniscule blade on my Edge Pro? I don't fully understand what he's talking about in the DVD about sharpening serrations either. Not only do i suck at sharpening serrations, but dealing with them on a hawkbill blade is a whole different matter. I also have my first Spydie, a SE Native that i would like to (finally) learn to sharpen and enjoy.

Or, would it be easier to just go buy a cheap diamond cone rod at the local knife shop and work at it freehand? If so, please explain. I'm retarded when it comes to sharpening serrations. I've watched a bunch of videos and i just can't get an edge that's ANYWHERE near what i get with PE, and that really matters to me. I expect one of my serrations to push cut paper if possible. Am i asking too much?

[.357 mag]

I couldn't sharpen SE knives on the EP very well. I would skip the diamond rod as well. Order a fine SM rod from CS and do it free hand.

[Evil D]

Is it just me or does this method of drawing a SE along a rod as you would a PE seem like you're missing parts of the edge? It just seems...sloppy. I can't stop thinking that i need to work each individual serrations one by one to really get the sharpest edge.

[DRH]

I find sharpening a SE on the SM very easy and it produces great results. I think the trick is to just make sure you draw the blade very slowly down the rods. I keep the left rod positioned to sharpen with the angle part of the rod and the right rod positioned with the flat side to de-burr after four or five sharpening passes. Lately, that is about all I've been using the SM for .... that and touching up recurves.

[Goeri]

I sharpen mine by moving the blade up and down on the sharpmaker rod. It seems to sharpen the serrations more even.
So, i do the normal down stroke and push back up without breaking contact with the rod.
I manage to cut a sheet of paper with only one serration...

[chuck_roxas45]

Get a tapered rod.

[Evil D]

Yep that's what I got yesterday. It works pretty decent but nowhere near as sharp as I want it yet.

[jackknifeh]

Ok. School me. How the heck do i sharpen this tiny little miniscule blade on my Edge Pro? I don't fully understand what he's talking about in the DVD about sharpening serrations either. Not only do i suck at sharpening serrations, but dealing with them on a hawkbill blade is a whole different matter. I also have my first Spydie, a SE Native that i would like to (finally) learn to sharpen and enjoy.

Or, would it be easier to just go buy a cheap diamond cone rod at the local knife shop and work at it freehand? If so, please explain. I'm retarded when it comes to sharpening serrations. I've watched a bunch of videos and i just can't get an edge that's ANYWHERE near what i get with PE, and that really matters to me. I expect one of my serrations to push cut paper if possible. Am i asking too much?

I think you are asking too much. I tried and gave up being able to slice paper with a serrated edge on any spot on the edge. Getting every spot on the edge just takes too much time and perfection. What I am happy with in a serrated edge is being about to easily cut through thick rope with a single cut using one slicing motion from heel to tip. Then I'm happy. Since I don't need serrated edges I'm really happy because I don't enjoy sharpening them. If I had more skill they would be a SHEER JOY to sharpen with excellent results.

The only serrated knife I care about is my long kitchen bread knife. For it I use Ben's video method. You have to lower the angle of the EP as low as possible. That includes using a piece of cardboard or something under the spine to raise it. This lowers the angle the stone hits the edge. Get it as low as you can and NOT hit the side of the blade. Sharpen the knife on the back side just like a plain edge until the entire serration is being hit by the stone. The tip all the way to the bottom of each serration. Then use the cone sharpener to remove the burr from the other side inside each serration. It doesn't have to be perfect like a plain edge for it to perform well. You can also use the profile 701 Spyderco stones to remove the burr. They are perfect, or the Sharpmaker stones. I only have the 701 stones. They are discontinued so getting a set soon is wise if you want them. They are perfect for serrated edges even if you don't want to use the EP method. I find I use mainly the fine one. They are worth it also because they are about as versitile a set as I've ever seen for all types of edges. I'll sell you my set for $500. Let me know when the check is mailed.

Very short blades Ben shows using a block that raises the blade high enough so the handle can be over the blade table. I have sharpened my Ladybug, Jester and Manbug without any block like that. I make my own blocks to hold the knife blade perfectly still but that's a different thing. I've never needed his blocks yet. It was a little tedious using the EP on my bug though but I did it. My son laughed at me for taking the time to get the bug so sharp. I like to carry it sometimes because I get a laugh when anyone sees it, then a "oh man" when they see it actually cuts small things just fine.

If you do want a diamond cone shape sharpener I highly recommend one from DMT. I'm sure there are other good ones but I have 100% faith in their products. I have several of their sharpeners. Great customer service also from what I've needed. I have the cone sharpener that goes with the aligner and it is quality. I also have one I got a Lowe's and it is nice because it is very coarse for when you need a coarse one. DMT only has the fine grit and of course that's all you need if you keep up the sharpening of the edge and don't let it get too dull.

Jack

[Evil D]

Well, i've done my Native and my Ladybug, and both will cut paper if you stab into it and pull, they just won't slice if you start from the edge of the paper. It bugs the crap out of me because if they can do it at the factory, then i have to figure out how to reproduce those results at home.

[jackknifeh]

Well, i've done my Native and my Ladybug, and both will cut paper if you stab into it and pull, they just won't slice if you start from the edge of the paper. It bugs the crap out of me because if they can do it at the factory, then i have to figure out how to reproduce those results at home.

If I remember correctly you've had the EP for about 3 months. Is that about right? There is no doubt that you will get better with time with any specific tool no matter how easy it is to use. The same is true for the EP. I think the Native has the flat spine to allow you to rest the flat part (jimping) along the edge guide preventing it from pivoting. That's the only thing I can think of that would give you problems on small knives if you are having better results with larger ones. I wouldn't call the Native a small knife though, about average size IMO. Have you ever gotten those two sharp enough to slice from the edge of paper? I mean, have you fallen into a slump or do you think there is something about those two models that causes difficulty?

[Evil D]

If I remember correctly you've had the EP for about 3 months. Is that about right? There is no doubt that you will get better with time with any specific tool no matter how easy it is to use. The same is true for the EP. I think the Native has the flat spine to allow you to rest the flat part (jimping) along the edge guide preventing it from pivoting. That's the only thing I can think of that would give you problems on small knives if you are having better results with larger ones. I wouldn't call the Native a small knife though, about average size IMO. Have you ever gotten those two sharp enough to slice from the edge of paper? I mean, have you fallen into a slump or do you think there is something about those two models that causes difficulty?

Oh, i haven't tried the EP on it yet, i'm using a Smith's tapered diamond rod right now. I'm getting outstanding results on the EP with my PE knives. I don't know what grit this rod is but it removes S30V pretty easily so it's fairly rough. How do you get between the serrations with the flat stone on the EP? he said something about sharpening from the back side as opposed to the front side? That doesn't sound wise to me. Sounds like you'll wear the teeth off in a hurry that way. Has anyone ever tried to use the triangle Sharpmaker rods on a EP?

[jackknifeh]

Oh, i haven't tried the EP on it yet, i'm using a Smith's tapered diamond rod right now. I'm getting outstanding results on the EP with my PE knives. I don't know what grit this rod is but it removes S30V pretty easily so it's fairly rough. How do you get between the serrations with the flat stone on the EP? he said something about sharpening from the back side as opposed to the front side? That doesn't sound wise to me. Sounds like you'll wear the teeth off in a hurry that way. Has anyone ever tried to use the triangle Sharpmaker rods on a EP?

My bad. In my last post I forgot you were dealing with serrated edges. The reason Ben uses his method of sharpening serrated edges on the edge pro is because it's so difficult to sharpen them and maintain the extremely sharp points that come from the factory. I've tried it and believe you need extraordinary patience to do that. My attempts have taken a nice pretty serrated edge and turned it into a snaggled shark tooth appearance. Using Ben's method you do not retain the pointyness the edges come with. The points are rounded a little bit. One reason I hate sharpening serrated edges is because my expectations are far higher thay my ability can produce. That's why I made a concious decision to lower my expectations. If I can cut rope effectively I'm good. If my kitchen bread knife slices bread or anything cleanly I'm happy also. I don't even try to slice paper any more. Some people like carrying serrated edges for EDC. That's great, just something I can't understand. I don't get anywhere near better cutting performance than a plain edge that justifies the effort it takes to maintian a serrated edge. That's jus me though.


Jack

[.357 mag]

Evil,
I have. There is a thread about it here I started. Worked ok..

Send me a PM if you want with your address. I have a UF SM rod I don't use anymore since I got my 701's. If you want it, its yours.

[Evil D]

Evil,
I have. There is a thread about it here I started. Worked ok..

Send me a PM if you want with your address. I have a UF SM rod I don't use anymore since I got my 701's. If you want it, its yours.

Does it fit the small serrations? I'll take it thanks!

[.357 mag]

O yeah, fits perfect in the small. I can slice phonebook paper after I'm done with my SE blades.

[Goeri]

Evil D, recheck my post please.
My serrated knives do cut paper easily. It is no more complicated than using a sharpmaker. Back and forth on the serrations side. Almost flat against the stone on the back side.

You can sharpen serrations on the back side but you will grind off the serrations fast.

If you do not have a sharpmaker, i would get a fine rod and freehand. You can go sheap an use sandpaper wrapped around a rod also.