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Thread: Nano-Oil for Sal

  1. #101
    Spyderco Forum Registered User captnvegtble's Avatar
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    Does anybody know how toxic this oil is? Meaning... is it acceptable to use on a knife that undergoes occasional food prep. Or... if I lick my knife occasionally, will I get sick? My guess is that it's probably not all right.

  2. #102
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by captnvegtble View Post
    Does anybody know how toxic this oil is? Meaning... is it acceptable to use on a knife that undergoes occasional food prep. Or... if I lick my knife occasionally, will I get sick? My guess is that it's probably not all right.
    My guess is that if you lick your knife you will get sicker from swallowing blood than you will from the oil. Seriously, I don't use the oil on the blade, just the pivot. Also, there is a lot of concern for how toxic products are for use in food prep. I believe this is a real concern but I also have a feeling the concern is somewhat overdone. A bigger concern for me would be using Tuf-Glide since I do use it on the blade as well as the pivot. I still think that using an oil and wiping off any excess is not going to hurt anyone for occasional use. If something were that toxic I think it would have a skull and crossbones on the label. Having said that, I don't use either oils on my kitchen knives or feed my grandson food cut with a knife that I maintain like I do my pocket knives. Grandson is more important than any of my opinions.

    Try emailing Christian (Nano-oil developer) at his web site. The address is somewhere within this thread or you can search on nano-oil. I'm on my tablet and can't copy and paste the URL easily.

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by captnvegtble View Post
    Does anybody know how toxic this oil is? Meaning... is it acceptable to use on a knife that undergoes occasional food prep. Or... if I lick my knife occasionally, will I get sick? My guess is that it's probably not all right.
    Go to the first page

  4. #104
    Spyderco Forum Registered User captnvegtble's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phaust View Post
    Go to the first page
    Oh yeah... thanks. I read that so long ago I forgot about it.

  5. #105
    Spyderco Forum Registered User kwakster's Avatar
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    Just heard about a new application;

    A friend who is an avid gamer with a Sony PS3 used Nano-Oil on the plastic buttons of his controller.
    He told me that after some time these buttons tend to get noticeably less responsive and/or more difficult to operate due to wear, which became problematic playing those very fast shooter games he likes.
    I told him that Nano-Oil also works very well on many kinds of plastics, so he put a tiny droplet of the thin Nano-Oil 5 weight around each button and that seems to have done the trick.
    According to him the controller now works even better than new.

  6. #106
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwakster View Post
    Just heard about a new application;

    A friend who is an avid gamer with a Sony PS3 used Nano-Oil on the plastic buttons of his controller.
    He told me that after some time these buttons tend to get noticeably less responsive and/or more difficult to operate due to wear, which became problematic playing those very fast shooter games he likes.
    I told him that Nano-Oil also works very well on many kinds of plastics, so he put a tiny droplet of the thin Nano-Oil 5 weight around each button and that seems to have done the trick.
    According to him the controller now works even better than new.
    Holy crap! With the number of gamers glued to the joystick and monitor I bet this will seal Nano-oil's place in the world if it gets around.

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

  7. #107
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    Where else will I read about a bunch of grown men (note I am not using the term group) talking about Nano Oil for their blades
    Centofante3 (C66PBK3), ParaMilitary2 (C81GPCMO), Endura4 (C10P), GrassHopper (C138P), Military (C36GPCMO), Perrin PPT (C135GP), Squeak (C154PBK), Dragonfly 2 Salt (C28PYL2), Military M390 CF (C36CFM390P), R (C67GF), ParaMilitary2 CTS-XHP (C81GPOR2), Tuff (C151GTIP), Ladybug & Perrin Street Bowie (FB04PBB)being the newest.

  8. #108
    Spyderco Forum Registered User phillipsted's Avatar
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    I've used track balls instead of mice on my desktop for a lot of years. And the main downside to these devices is that they collect "gunk" from finger oils, dust, dander, etc. I clean the mechanisms regularly, but at the trackballs get older, they get stickier and stickier.

    So rather than throw out one of my favorite microsoft optical trackballs, I decided to try nano-oil on the socket after cleaning to see if it would help. Voila! It works like new. I'm careful to let the oil dry a bit before reassembly. Chalk up another one for Christian and his great product!

    TedP

  9. #109
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phillipsted View Post
    I've used track balls instead of mice on my desktop for a lot of years. And the main downside to these devices is that they collect "gunk" from finger oils, dust, dander, etc. I clean the mechanisms regularly, but at the trackballs get older, they get stickier and stickier.

    So rather than throw out one of my favorite microsoft optical trackballs, I decided to try nano-oil on the socket after cleaning to see if it would help. Voila! It works like new. I'm careful to let the oil dry a bit before reassembly. Chalk up another one for Christian and his great product!

    TedP
    Nothing about knives or oil but this may help with PC mice (old ones) and trackballs. The ball itself needs to be cleaned once in a while but I've found that most people don't clean the rods or bars that the ball moves. There are two of them in a mouse. They are positioned like two sides of a square. The ball turns these plastic rods and them turning makes the cursor move. So, you need to clean the spot on those rods where the ball contacts them. It's easy to tell where the contact point is. It is usually dirty with hair, dirt, dust and whatever else ended up on your mouse pad. Cleaning those bars will do 10 times more for the performance than cleaning just the ball.

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

  10. #110
    Spyderco Forum Registered User skatenut's Avatar
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    Had to apply a generous amount of Nano-oil to the bone dry o-rings and barely greased threads of two brand new titanium flashlights. Opening them for the first time proved to very gritty and I had to exert more force than I felt comfortable with.

    Fail to understand why manufacturers don't sufficiently grease/oil brand new flashlights before delivery, they were not my first ungreased lights.

  11. #111
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    Hello Sal and all who came to visit at Shot Show,

    Shot Show is behind us now and Nuremberg Germany is in front of us, will you be there in March?

    Just could not come visit in your booth.
    Some of your associates came to visit and we had some fun on the carpet with very interesting blades.
    You all take care and for whom came to visit thank you, just too much plain fun not under the Sun.
    Last edited by Nano-Oil; 02-05-2013 at 06:33 AM. Reason: typo
    Christian StClaire

  12. #112
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Just a little atta-boy for Nano-oil 5w.

    I have some u-bolts and they had been used outside for a long time on a dog-runner. I needed to repair it and I couldn't get the nuts off the u-bolts. I put one drop of the 5 WEIGHT Nano-Oil on the bolts where it could get between the bolts and nuts. This is how fast it worked. I applied the oil, set the oil down and picked up the wrench. After a VERY TINY "break-free" feeling the nuts came off almost as easily as they do when new. I could use my fingers. I have used WD-40 all my life for this and it always needed to soak for a while. Don't know how long because it was long enough that I'd just leave them alone and do something else. The 5 WEIGHT is very thin and is advertised as being able to soak into the corrosion between pieces of metal very fast. I will agree with this claim 100%.

    Time this thread gets a bump anyway. There are a few new people since we have discussed lubricatants. I use Nano-Oil for friction places and Tuf-Glide for places like the blade or handle on knives. I use the Tuf-Glide strictly for corrosion control. It is a lubricant also but Nano-Oil is MUCH smoother. The same basic use on tools, etc. There are many great lubricants available now and I have only tried a few of the "better" ones. Until recently I only used 3-in-one and WD-40. These are great products. Since my Dad always had both at all times I thought it was part of what it takes to father children. But, as well as many other types of products there have been discoveries and improvements.

    The thing I appreciate most about Nano-Oil is after applying it I can tighten my pivot screw tighter than before using Nano and the blade still pivots smoothly and freely. This helps with knives that it's hard to eliminate blade play. Tighten the screw enough to stop blade play and the blade will be hard to open using some of the other oils. Using Nano-Oil, you can tighten it enough to stop blade play and the knife is still smooth and easy to open/close. Good stuff. There are many great lube options now and I believe Nano-Oil is one of the best. Not the cheapest, but definately a great product.

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

  13. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackknifeh View Post
    Just a little atta-boy for Nano-oil 5w.

    <snip>

    The thing I appreciate most about Nano-Oil is after applying it I can tighten my pivot screw tighter than before using Nano and the blade still pivots smoothly and freely. This helps with knives that it's hard to eliminate blade play. Tighten the screw enough to stop blade play and the blade will be hard to open using some of the other oils. Using Nano-Oil, you can tighten it enough to stop blade play and the knife is still smooth and easy to open/close. Good stuff. There are many great lube options now and I believe Nano-Oil is one of the best. Not the cheapest, but definately a great product.
    This happened to me on my BM 275. After using nano-oil the blade could easily open just by shaking the knife. I had to tighten that one down pretty good to add some friction back into it so it would feel normal.

    I just started to add Tuf-Glide into my care regimen. So far so good.

    JD

  14. #114
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jabba359's Avatar
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    I can't really say that Nano Oil is any better or worse than the other knife lubricants I've used, but it does work. For years, I have used an electric beard trimmer and always oiled it with the included bottle of oil (shave->rinse->air dry->oil). Without fail, it would annoyingly pull out two or three hairs every time I shaved (once a week). About three months ago, I decided to try out some Nano Oil. After that one application, it hasn't pulled a single hair. I rinse it with water every time I use it but haven't re-applied any Nano Oil (I still do re-oil with the original bottle after every shave and rinse). Seems like the Nano Oil did the trick.
    -Kyle


    On the Fence: Tuff, Techno
    Latest arrivals: MT19 PSF27 Mule, Des Horn, Dialex Junior

  15. #115
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    For those that prefer a grease, i have used Nano-oil grease a few times and it works pretty nice as well. It comes in a nice BIG syringe and usage is very clean.

    JD

  16. #116
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Nano-oil comes in 3 weights. I have used 5w and 10w. 10w is about as thick as most oils. 5w is very thin or runny. 5w gets into joints very easy and I recently used it to free some rusted bolts. It works very good for that. I think it's a little too thin for folders.

    BUT, it also comes in an 85 weight that is VERY thick I understand. I think someone on this forum used some and said it is thick enough that it was hard to apply. If it comes in the normal tube with needle applicator maybe that is why it's hard to apply, through such a thin needle. Anyway, for those who like a grease the 80w might work. I believe it is recommended for guns that are used a lot, maybe automatics which may be used by the military.

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

  17. #117
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Just read an interesting thing on the Nano-oil site. Says you can add a small amount of Nanl-oil to other lubricants to increase the anti-friction properties of other products. Nano-oil is expensive compared to the "normal" lubricants so this may be a way to get better performance and save a few bucks as well. I have been using Nano-oil on things I want the best performance from and the 3-in-one on "other" things. I'm going to add a little bit of Nano to this oil to a small amount of 3-in-one and see if it makes a difference. Adding just a small amount may not make enough difference to be able to tell though. But, all of the claims about it have been accurate so far so we'll see.

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

  18. #118
    Spyderco Forum Registered User kbuzbee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JudasD View Post
    For those that prefer a grease, i have used Nano-oil grease a few times and it works pretty nice as well. It comes in a nice BIG syringe and usage is very clean.
    Good to know, JD. I just ordered some on your rec

    Quote Originally Posted by jackknifeh View Post
    BUT, it also comes in an 85 weight that is VERY thick I understand. I think someone on this forum used some and said it is thick enough that it was hard to apply.
    I have the 85wt Jack. It is VERY thick You have to squeeze the bajeebers out of the bottle to get one drop to form on the needle tip. I origionally wanted it for the chain on the garage door opener but it wasn't optimal. It's an "up" application. Even those thick drops don't quite flow "up" Just ordered the grease. We'll see, but I'm optomistic.

    BUT, since I have it...... I put it on a couple pivots. It may not be right for you quick-flickers out there but it is SMOOTH. Maybe even smoother than the 10wt. It takes a dozen or so openings to work down in but once it gets in, you're good to go. Currently riding in both my Native 5 and Nishijin DF.

    Ken
    玉鋼

  19. #119
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kbuzbee View Post
    Good to know, JD. I just ordered some on your rec



    I have the 85wt Jack. It is VERY thick You have to squeeze the bajeebers out of the bottle to get one drop to form on the needle tip. I origionally wanted it for the chain on the garage door opener but it wasn't optimal. It's an "up" application. Even those thick drops don't quite flow "up" Just ordered the grease. We'll see, but I'm optomistic.

    BUT, since I have it...... I put it on a couple pivots. It may not be right for you quick-flickers out there but it is SMOOTH. Maybe even smoother than the 10wt. It takes a dozen or so openings to work down in but once it gets in, you're good to go. Currently riding in both my Native 5 and Nishijin DF.

    Ken
    You are supposed to be able to mix any of the 3 weights to get the viscousity you need. Maybe mixing some 10 or 5 would thin the 85w to the point it would be easier to use and still thicker that most oils. I got the 10w because it was advertised as the appropriate weight for knives and tools. I got the 5w because of the claims that it would break frozen or rusted bolts free fast. These claims have proven true. I even use the 5w on knives once in a while to ensure it gets into all the friction areas. I am convinced this is not necessary but I've done it anyway in case I'm wrong. I know, me being wrong is hard to imagine. Now I may need to get the 85w and mix it with some 5w to thin it. What do I need thicker oil for your ask? Can't think of anythin at the moment. I have a huge tube of grease I got at Wal Mart for a whopping $1.99. It has worked great on everything I've used it for so far. I stopped the unvelievable noise from a very loud, very powerful, very expensive fan. That's all so far. So it would seem I don't need thick oil or grease that much anyway. It is good to know that anything lubrication related can be satisfied with Nano-oil products. I know it's not the only great product line out there but it's the best I've used in my limited experience. As far as oil and lubrication goes I'm just some guy with the normal tools and stuff that require oil. No heavy machinery experience or anything. So I'll keep using Nano-oil until I get an unbelievable recommendation from someone I trust AND HAS TRIED NANO-OIL. I'll put it a way you guys may understand. Nano-oil is to oils is like Spyderco is to knives.

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

  20. #120
    Spyderco Forum Registered User kbuzbee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackknifeh View Post
    Nano-oil is to oils is like Spyderco is to knives.
    There you are just going too far, Jack. I don't find those little bottle particularly ergonomic, and oil itself doesn't hold an edge for crap

    Ken
    玉鋼

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