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Thread: Nano-Oil for Sal

  1. #81
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Alchemy1's Avatar
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    I agree with you on paying shipping for a single can. I buy a decent amount of stuff from midway USA so I just added a few bottles when I placed a larger order. I figured if they are already shipping me 20+ pounds of stuff 3-4 aresol cans can't add that much to shipping.
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  2. #82
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Sharpmaker Mike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alchemy1 View Post
    Hmmm...interesting. I use ballistol on my guns as well, but never thought about using it on my knives. Do you spray it into the pivot out spray and then rub the tip of the straw on the pivot?
    I have it in both the spray can and the non spray. The non-aerosol is a little thicker, and I use the non spray with a little flat paint brush. The aerosol can is a little thinner, and you can put it anywhere. Basically I just used the brush for the parts I could see, and then sprayed the pivot inside and out with the aerosol can.

    Smooth as glass in a few minutes!!!!

  3. #83
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Sharpmaker Mike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alchemy1 View Post
    I agree with you on paying shipping for a single can. I buy a decent amount of stuff from midway USA so I just added a few bottles when I placed a larger order. I figured if they are already shipping me 20+ pounds of stuff 3-4 aresol cans can't add that much to shipping.
    Midway USA is having a sale on it if you want to stock up, too!

  4. #84
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Clip's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sharpmaker Mike View Post
    I'm actually going to have to agree with phaust on this one. I did my own comparison test with another favorite lube of mine - Ballistol.



    Bottom line: As far as lubrication goes (in MY test), the Nano oil came up far short to Ballistol, which has been my go-to gun lube for a long time. Not to mention the fact that Ballistol is a FRACTION of the cost of Nano.

    Phaust and Mike, thanks for the reviews. Have either of you tried Tuf-Glide? I've been using it on the M2 and M4 to prevent corrosion, but have also been putting a few drops in the pivots as I've found it's a decent dry lube that doesn't collect dust/lint. However, I also like Jack's approach of using Tuf-Glide plus a dedicated lubricant. Didn't know if Ballistol stayed wet and attracted dust.
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  5. #85
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Sharpmaker Mike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clip View Post
    Phaust and Mike, thanks for the reviews. Have either of you tried Tuf-Glide?

    Chris, I have not tried it yet, but want to pick up a Tuf cloth. I'm a Glock guy, so I don't worry about the guns rusting. I know knives are a different animal though. I heard on the Glock forum that Emerson likes using the Tuf cloths on his knives before they go out, and recommends doing the same. I will be picking up a Tuf cloth in the near future.



    Quote Originally Posted by Clip View Post
    However, I also like Jack's approach of using Tuf-Glide plus a dedicated lubricant.
    I agree, and think this is the way to go. A lot of the "Do it all" stuff doesn't really seem to do anything really great. I would much rather use 2 products like Ballistol and a Tuf Cloth and not have to worry about corrosion or smoothness, then waste a lot of money and time trying to find one that does both as good as these two products.


    Quote Originally Posted by Clip View Post
    Didn't know if Ballistol stayed wet and attracted dust.
    It will, but I allow it to soak in then wipe off the excess. Even when you can't see any Ballistol left on the surface, it leaves a teflon-like coating to it, so it will still be "slick" even though it's not wet.

    One more thing, Ballistol works great on the handle of the Native, just like it does on the grip of a Glock. Just don't use too much as a little goes a long way!

  6. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by kbuzbee View Post
    So I used the 85 weight on the garage door opener. It's a worm screw (AOT a chain drive) and can only be accessed from below. Primarily because of that, I've used spray lubricants in the past. Something I could spray up into it.

    First, let me say this stuff is thick. VERY thick! Think molasses from the fridge thick. You have to squeeze for all you are worth just to get a drop to appear at the end of the applicator. In some ways, this was a good thing as the 10 weight is impossible to get up onto the threads. The 85 weight stays up on the tip and is easily transferred upward.

    I'd guess total I applied 8 drops along the length of each screw and ran the door a couple times to distribute it. I would have liked to get a bit more onto it but squeezing it is so difficult I just couldn't Was it enough? I really don't know, but I think so. It clearly smoothed it out. If I reapply, I'm thinking of trying a small paint brush, rather than the needle applicator.

    Haven't used the 10 weight on any more knives but the ones I did are still running smooth and quiet.

    Ken
    Hello Ken,

    You could immerse the pocket applicator in boiling water and let it sit for 5 minutes,
    there will be a big difference in the amount you will be able to dispense.

    Christian

  7. #87
    Spyderco Forum Registered User kbuzbee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nano-Oil View Post
    Hello Ken,

    You could immerse the pocket applicator in boiling water and let it sit for 5 minutes,
    there will be a big difference in the amount you will be able to dispense.
    Excellent. Thanks Christian. I'll give it a go.

    Oh, and welcome to the Spyderco Forum. It's a great place to hang out

    Ken
    玉鋼

  8. #88
    Spyderco Forum Registered User
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    Hi Christian,

    Welcome to the Spyderco forum. Are you connected to Nano-oil?

    sal

  9. #89
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    Hello Sal,

    Yes, I am the developer, I met with Spyderco at the Shot Show back in 2007 but not sure that I actually met you.
    You guys were having so much fun working, you all seem to like what you do very much so.
    If you go this year to the Shot, I could pass by and introduce myself in person.
    Take care and have a great weekend.
    Last edited by Nano-Oil; 10-19-2012 at 02:10 PM. Reason: typo
    Christian StClaire

  10. #90
    Spyderco Forum Registered User
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    Thanx for the input. I'll be at the SHOT show, but I'm often in some meeting.

    You have a nice product. Thanx for sharing info on the forum, our forum folks love to hear from those that know.

    sal

  11. #91
    Spyderco Forum Registered User kbuzbee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sal View Post
    our forum folks love to hear from those that know.
    Yes, we do!

    Ken
    玉鋼

  12. #92
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    i started using nano-oil somewhere near the beginning of 2012 on my flashlights. I got the tip from CPF. I right away started to use it on my knives and i love the stuff. What sold me on nano-oil was the petcock on my air compressor. The design on my air compressor causes the compressed air AND the condensation to run through the threads when you drain the tank. The causes ANY lube to be blown/washed away after each use. I had to oil/wd40/grease/etc EVERYTIME i used my air compressor or the next usage would be hell to drain due to the petcock being stuck. I treated the petcock once with 10 weight when my nano-oil order arrived. I purposely never treated it again to see how long it could go before getting stuck. I use that compressor a few times a week and i haven't had to re-treat the petcock since. I'm sure i'll have to re-treat it one of these days but it's fun to see how long it's going to take before i do.

    JD

  13. #93
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    Hello JudasD,

    on scuba diving tanks, we are opposing between 2800 and 4500 psi pressure when opening and closing,
    the screw connected to the knob handling the opening nylon seat is coated with teflon,
    after a short time the valve needs the force of the full hand to open and close when full,
    for the fun of it we applied a few drops on the screw to see if friction could be reduced enough to make a difference,
    To our surpise we were able to open and close using only the thumb and the little finger which is the weaker combination you can use in your hand for torque,
    we never had to reapply to the part, however the screw is protected from outside elements including dust etc.
    this was done in circa 1996.
    Christian StClaire

  14. #94
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Gary W Graley's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackknifeh View Post
    Update:
    I asked Christian at Nano-oil if it was any good at freeing rusted bolts. He said yes. He suggested the 5w because being thinner would soak into the area faster and better. I categorize oil into 3 categories for my use. Lubrication, corrosion control and fixing already rusted items. I've used WD-40 all my life for all of the above. So, based on Nano-oil's performance for about a week I have no reason to doubt anything Christian says about the product. Anybody out there who has Nano-oil in the house have a rusted bolt to try it on?

    Continuation of good news update:


    My Chaparral is performing wonderfully since it's Nano-oil application. The Chaparral has the worst pivot performance record of any Spyderco I've seen or heard about. Still everything else is so great IMO I decided a long time ago the pivot is easily lived with. It started very gritty but that worked itself out after a month or so. Then is was ok smooth. Then Nano-oil and it became MUCH better and still is. I used it this morning and I have to say, If I didn't already know about the pivot's poor history I wouldn't have even thought about the knife having a pivot issue. The pivot is very nice now. Does anyone else who has Nano-oil also have a Chaparral? How is the pivot smoothness? How is it after you use Nano-oil on the pivot if you use it? I believe of any Spyderco (any knife) the Chaparral is the toughest test of a lubricant's performance. Nano passed on my Chaparral.

    Jack
    My Titan Chaparral is also working good with Nano oil, heard that tip a while back on Nano Oil, got a tube of it off Amazon, love the applicator type system!
    Also put some on my PPT and that really helped, a drop on the detent bead, as it was scraping across and made opening and closing very rough.
    G2
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  15. #95
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary W Graley View Post
    My Titan Chaparral is also working good with Nano oil, heard that tip a while back on Nano Oil, got a tube of it off Amazon, love the applicator type system!
    Also put some on my PPT and that really helped, a drop on the detent bead, as it was scraping across and made opening and closing very rough.
    G2
    About the Chaparral grittyness. Another thing that helps on some of them is using an UF Sharpmaker rod and file the stamped letters on the tang. The Spyderco, blade steel and manufacturing location. It seems there is a tiny burr on some knives that rubs inside the liners. Suprisingly enough, after my Chaparral had broken it and was feeling good when opening I read this tip, did it and the knife seemed even smoother. You may want to try it if you have a VERY fine stone. The UF is what was suggested and what I used. If you don't have one I think any really fine grit stone would work. Do you know anyone who has a brand new Shapton glass 8k stone?
    My Manbug. (ZDP-189 shaped like Jester blade with red bone scales (11-12-2013)). This was previously the VG-10/G-10 w/bolsters Manbug. Knife nickname: FrankenManJester or FrankenJesterBug.

  16. #96
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Gary W Graley's Avatar
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    It just so happens I have TWO 8k stones, one a bit larger than the other, but I had a small fine ceramic and knocked down those raised edges of the words, although it's now smoother, it didn't make a great difference in smoothness, but, it sure didn't hurt it
    G2
    "The Road to Hell is Paved with Good Intentions!"
    Take the time to read your Bible Now, don't be left behind...

    Psalm 1

  17. #97
    Spyderco Forum Registered User
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    [QUOTE Originally Posted by jackknifeh
    Update:
    I asked Christian at Nano-oil if it was any good at freeing rusted bolts. He said yes. He suggested the 5w because being thinner would soak into the area faster and better. I categorize oil into 3 categories for my use. Lubrication, corrosion control and fixing already rusted items. I've used WD-40 all my life for all of the above. So, based on Nano-oil's performance for about a week I have no reason to doubt anything Christian says about the product. Anybody out there who has Nano-oil in the house have a rusted bolt to try it on?

    Originally Posted by =Gary W Graley;813732]My Titan Chaparral is also working good with Nano oil, heard that tip a while back on Nano Oil, got a tube of it off Amazon, love the applicator type system!
    Also put some on my PPT and that really helped, a drop on the detent bead, as it was scraping across and made opening and closing very rough.
    G2[/QUOTE]

    For rusted bolts and nuts
    without or without oil or WD40

    - you should shock the bolts from the top and nuts from with either a wrench (hit on the side)
    or the best is impact pneumatic set first on a very low setting.

    the difference with oil just wait for 30 seconds before applying torque to give time for the fluid to migrate
    if still too frozen just repeat,

    every time you use oil and hit the bolt, capillary action will be emphasized/optimized
    Last edited by Nano-Oil; 10-30-2012 at 08:32 PM. Reason: clarification
    Christian StClaire

  18. #98
    Spyderco Forum Registered User ozspyder's Avatar
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    Hi Christian,

    Are there Australian distributors for your products as yet ?

    I'd be interested in trying the lubes out with my knives and firearms amongst other things.
    Cheers
    Daniel (Certified Persian & Kopa nut)


    I love my: Persians, Kopas, and Lums
    * Daniel's Spyderco Hoard *

  19. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozspyder View Post
    Hi Christian,

    Are there Australian distributors for your products as yet ?

    I'd be interested in trying the lubes out with my knives and firearms amongst other things.
    Sorry Ozspider,

    No distributor down under, but there isn't such a thing as a slow boat to Australia.
    Christian StClaire

  20. #100
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Just in case anyone has missed this feature of the oil, Nano-oil weights can be mixed to create different viscosities or thicknesses. I recently had a joint that I used the 10w on. It works fine but was tight enough that it didn't feel like the oil got into the joint as well as I hoped. I tried the 5w oil and that took care of the problem. Now the joint pivots like it is supposed to, smooth and easy.

    I didn't really mix the oils and put the mixture into it's own tube even though I guess you can do that. The mixing occurred inside the joint or maybe the result was as if I only had used the 5w, not sure. Either way, this brand of oil is revealing itself to me as having more flexibility than other's I've used.
    My Manbug. (ZDP-189 shaped like Jester blade with red bone scales (11-12-2013)). This was previously the VG-10/G-10 w/bolsters Manbug. Knife nickname: FrankenManJester or FrankenJesterBug.

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