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Thread: Tuf-Glide Not Working?

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    Question Tuf-Glide Not Working?

    Hello Everyone This is my first post on these forums so Im happy to be here. Ive read these forums occasionally but never decided to make an account of my own, But now onto the topic. I have just recently purchased my first bottle of Sentry Solution's Tuf-Glide lubricant for use on all my folding knives. Now this was my first lubricant thats actually meant to be used on knives and other similar things, as I was simply using WD-40 in my knives beforehand which I know is not really what it's meant for, but it worked decently. So anyway, It arrived yesterday and once I got it, I wanted to test it out. I Dissasembled one of my knives (Spyderco Tenacious, not that it really matters), Cleaned it, and then applied 1 maybe 2 drops maximum to each side of the pivot. I closed it all up and then I tried to open it and it turns out its even harder to open than before when I was just using some WD-40! (and no I didnt overly tighten the pivot) I tried working it in for a while, more then a while actually but still to no success. Don't get me wrong it is still 'flick-able" but not nearly as well as it once was with WD-40. I was just wondering if something went wrong, whether it be my user error, or possible defect in the product. Any sort of information, help, or tips on this would be much appreciated. The "cleaning" process I did was a simple dis-assembly, and wipe of any debris and left over oils off the blade/pivot and the bushings, I put a drop on each side of the pivot and rubbed it around with my fingertip and also on the bushings as well. Maybe that information could help to see if I went wrong anywhere? Hopefully I can get this sorted out. Anyway thank you all very much for reading and possibly helping me out!

    -Anthony H.

  2. #2
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    Yeah! Tuf-glide tends to gum up when it dries so don't use it as a lubricant instead try nano-oil. Tuf-glide is more of a rust inhibitor than a lubricant to use it to treat metal parts to minimize corrosion. Don't forget to let the stuff dry then polish it off with a cloth then you're good to go.

  3. #3
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jabba359's Avatar
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    Could be user error, as I had a very similar problem with my Sage 1. I had removed the scales once and noticed some small rust spots on the liners. Fast forward a year and I finally got some Tuf-Glide, so I disassembled the Sage and removed the rust, followed by a coat of Tuf-Glide. After putting it all back together, the action was gritty, with the culprit point being the ball detent. It looked clean, but the knife opened poorly. So I disassembled again and recleaned and reassembled. Still gritty and the ball seemed to be grinding rather than gliding. Disassembled, cleaned and coated for the third time, finally resulting in success. The detent glides once again. I've got no idea what the problem was, as the ball and travel path looked clean every single time, but it still took three tries to get it right. I don't think the Tuf-Glide was to blame for my issue. Perhaps you're experiencing the same bad luck that I did, and maybe there is some small grit or something that got in there while you were working on it.
    -Kyle


    On the Fence: Tuff, Techno
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    Thanks for the pointers, Both of you! Ill try re-cleaning it and see if that helps. Also, One question: Is it necessary to lubricate between the liners and the bushings? or just between bushings and the blade?
    Thanks again

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    I have used Tuf Glide on a lot of my knives over the past 15 or so years and it has worked very well. One thing that I have noticed is that when you first apply it, it seems a little "gummy". However, after about 24 hours it works very well. If your knife is difficult to open, I would think that it was some other reason rather than the Tuf Glide--unless there was some residue in the pivot that was gumming it up, but you stated that you cleaned it.

    I lube the whole thing-washers, pivot, and bushings with a few drops and then work the action several times. Then, I put it aside for a day.

    Tuf Glide is a dry lubricant. The only wet stuff is the carrier which is mineral spirits.

  6. #6
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    I agree with arjay. Tuf-Glide is sold as a lubricant and it has been ok for me. I bought it for the corrosion control it brags about and lives up to. With a new knife I normally drown the pivot with Tuf-Glide to ensure it get in everywhere. I'll wipe off any extra and let the knive sit overnight. The next day I wipe off any remaining TG and wipe of all metal with the Tuf-Cloth. At this point the knife works really well. After about a week it started feeling like it needed oiling. So, for lubrication I started using Quick Release as a lubricant. It worked better. Then a few months ago I heard about Nano-oil on this forum. I got some and it is the best lubricant I've ever used by far. I can even tighten the pivot screw a little tighter and the blade still pivots easily. This can help with problem knives that are hard to adjust so there is no blade play and still moves smoothly and easily. Go to nano-oil.com and click on products. It comes in different weights also. Read about it and see. It's a little more expensive than most of the normal oils but works a lot better and you don't have to buy it very often. It lasts a lot longer in addition to working better IMO.

    Unless I take a knife apart like you did I normally drown a knife pivot in the oil I use to ensure everything gets coated. Then I wipe off any excess, even in the hard to reach places. The Tuf-Cloth is good for this. It is very thin and gets into very small cracks like between the tang and liner of knives that have a thick washer. Having Tuf-glide in the cloth also helps keep the metal parts protected. This "drowning" goes against everything I've heard about oiling things. I only do this once. After that I use just a tiny bit in later applications.

    The Gayle Bradley has an M4 blade (non-stainless) so I take it apart every 6 or 7 months and treat the blade tang with Tuf-Glide, let it dry and when I reassemble it I use just a drop of Nano-oil between the washers and tang. Similar to what you did.

    Enough about what I do. I think you will get better performance from Tuf-Glide than your initial experience. Since I don't see it as the best lubricant I believe you will need more than the minimal amount of oil. I believe it works magic at preventing corrosion but is only an average lubricant. Sorry to be so long winded. I'm hoping you wouldn't mind since you seem to be more interested in getting your knives to work at peak performance which I understand.


    Jack
    My Manbug. (ZDP-189 shaped like Jester blade with red bone scales (11-12-2013)). This was previously the VG-10/G-10 w/bolsters Manbug. Knife nickname: FrankenManJester or FrankenJesterBug.

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    I am a real admirer and a big fan of most all of Sentry Solution's products. I particularly like their dry lube i.e. BP 2000. I find it to be advantageous over conventional lubes in some cases.

    I do however like Militec just a little better than TufGlide for many applications, It seems like it clings to the metal better and lasts much longer.

    I would also recommend a thorough cleaning of your knives because sometimes you get pocket lint buildup and other things that tend to bind up a mechanism. And Militec seems to work better for me in that regard.

    I also like Flitz's products for cleaning and maintaining..
    Long Live the SPYDEREDGE Spyderco Hawkbills RULE!!

  8. #8
    Spyderco Forum Registered User phillipsted's Avatar
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    I use Tuf-Glide as well - for both corrosion control and lubrication. (I've recently switched to Nano-Oil for lube, though).

    I've found that after an initial coat of Tuf-Glide, sometimes the lube will cause small pieces of dirt or metal to "lift" off the blade and feel rough in the action. This is especially true after a takedown and cleaning. Personally, I would blow out the knife with compressed air, add a touch more lube, and really work the knife while sitting in front of the teevee. After you open and close it a few dozen times, I bet it will smooth right out.

    Good luck!

    TedP

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    Thank you everyone for all the tips and recommendations! After waking up this morning I did notice that the action was slightly smoother, maybe to the point to be on par with the wd-40 that i was using before, maybe a little less smooth. Certainly nothing spectacular which is still disappointing considering it is meant to be used with knives, but nonetheless it is still doing its job. I re-cleaned and lubed my knife to find similar results as the first day. I guess Ive learned my lesson that this is more of a rust inhibitor with mild lubrication rather than a lubrication with rust resistance. What I don't understand is all the hub-bub is with this product and its uses on knives. Before purchasing it I searched far and wide to find large amounts of support and praise for this product which is what helped me make my choice to purchase it, so if the results I am getting are the same or similar to what other's are, why is this product held in such high regard?

    Thank you all very much again. It sounds like I will have to pick up a bottle of that nano-lube eventually as it looks and sounds like it is of the highest caliber, but dang is that stuff expensive compared to other lubricants! You get what you pay for I guess :P

  10. #10
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    You can force a patina on carbon steel knife blades. Or it forms on it's own over time. Patina is a form of corrosion that actually protects the metal from the bad corrosion, rust. I tried to force a patina on an M4 blade that I have and failed because I had treated the blade with Tough Glide. After that I figured it was a great product because I couldn't force corrosion to form. It should do a pretty good job of protecting a knife under normal circumstances where it gets wiped off and cleaned frequently. I also left a knife outside for over two weeks in the weather after treating it with Tuf-Glide. There was no corrosion at all and it still open/closed perfectly.

    In case you didn't know, the Nano-oil site doesn't charge shipping when you order the oil.

    Jack
    My Manbug. (ZDP-189 shaped like Jester blade with red bone scales (11-12-2013)). This was previously the VG-10/G-10 w/bolsters Manbug. Knife nickname: FrankenManJester or FrankenJesterBug.

  11. #11
    Spyderco Forum Registered User monsterdog's Avatar
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    Yes, your knife becomes harder to open after you first apply it, not user error.

    Its a dry lubricant, let it dry and it will work

  12. #12
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    How long should it normally take to dry? I applied it about 3 hours ago and it is still more stiff than usual.

  13. #13
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Clip's Avatar
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    It takes a little while. I've had it remain gummy for 48+ hours before (while carrying). Eventually I got a cotton swab and wiped off everything I could find that would possibly collect dust and dirt and just carried it normally since.
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    Spyderco Forum Registered User CaliMarine's Avatar
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    So glad you posted this!

    Quote Originally Posted by oogies View Post
    Hello Everyone This is my first post on these forums so Im happy to be here. Ive read these forums occasionally but never decided to make an account of my own, But now onto the topic. I have just recently purchased my first bottle of Sentry Solution's Tuf-Glide lubricant for use on all my folding knives. Now this was my first lubricant thats actually meant to be used on knives and other similar things, as I was simply using WD-40 in my knives beforehand which I know is not really what it's meant for, but it worked decently. So anyway, It arrived yesterday and once I got it, I wanted to test it out. I Dissasembled one of my knives (Spyderco Tenacious, not that it really matters), Cleaned it, and then applied 1 maybe 2 drops maximum to each side of the pivot. I closed it all up and then I tried to open it and it turns out its even harder to open than before when I was just using some WD-40! (and no I didnt overly tighten the pivot) I tried working it in for a while, more then a while actually but still to no success. Don't get me wrong it is still 'flick-able" but not nearly as well as it once was with WD-40. I was just wondering if something went wrong, whether it be my user error, or possible defect in the product. Any sort of information, help, or tips on this would be much appreciated. The "cleaning" process I did was a simple dis-assembly, and wipe of any debris and left over oils off the blade/pivot and the bushings, I put a drop on each side of the pivot and rubbed it around with my fingertip and also on the bushings as well. Maybe that information could help to see if I went wrong anywhere? Hopefully I can get this sorted out. Anyway thank you all very much for reading and possibly helping me out!

    -Anthony H.
    You're 100% right. Tuf-glide is no lubricant and is the equivalent of hitting your pivot with super glue! I also got suckered into the hype and did all the proper cleaning, etc. and never had any success with tuf-glide as a lubricant. It may be a bore cleaner with anti rust properties but I'm convinced that it will permanently damage your pivot/action or any other moving mechanisms on your spyderco knives. I finally realized it wasn't me and threw that crap away! It leaves some funky dry powder debris when it dries. Let's face it, 'dry' and 'lube' don't go together. Biggest waste of 10 bucks ever.

  15. #15
    Spyderco Forum Registered User razorsharp's Avatar
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    my go to lube is KY intens... oh .... knife lube, My go to lube is Nano oil, I use tuffglide on the blade as a rust inhibator, not so much a lube
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    Same as Travis and Jackknife, I use Tuf-Glide as a corrosion barrier and Nano Oil for lubrication purposes.

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    Spyderco Forum Registered User Clip's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaliMarine View Post
    You're 100% right. Tuf-glide is no lubricant and is the equivalent of hitting your pivot with super glue! I also got suckered into the hype and did all the proper cleaning, etc. and never had any success with tuf-glide as a lubricant. It may be a bore cleaner with anti rust properties but I'm convinced that it will permanently damage your pivot/action or any other moving mechanisms on your spyderco knives. I finally realized it wasn't me and threw that crap away! It leaves some funky dry powder debris when it dries. Let's face it, 'dry' and 'lube' don't go together. Biggest waste of 10 bucks ever.
    I've been using Tuf-Glide for quite a while now on my pivots with no powdery issues. I know the stuff you're talking about, looks like the white powdery Teflon residue from the aerosol cans I'll use. However, my bottle of Tuf-Glide hasn't ever pulled that stunt and has succeeded in making the knives pivot smoothly, as well as prevent corrosion.
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    Manix2, Elmax MT13, M4 Manix2, ZDP Caly3, ZDP Caly Jr, Super Blue Caly3.5, M390 Para2, Cruwear MT12, Techno, XHP MT16, South Fork, Super Blue Caly3, Manix2 Ltwt, Yojimbo2, Salt I, 20CP Para2, Military Left Hand, Perrin PPT, Forum Native5, Squeak, Manix 83mm, 440V Military, Gayle Bradley, Swick3, Lil' Temperance, Cruwear Military, VG10 Jester, Terzuola SlipIt, XHP Native Ltwt, Domino, CPM154/S90V Para2, Super Blue Stretch

    Chris

  18. #18
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaliMarine View Post
    You're 100% right. Tuf-glide is no lubricant and is the equivalent of hitting your pivot with super glue! I also got suckered into the hype and did all the proper cleaning, etc. and never had any success with tuf-glide as a lubricant. It may be a bore cleaner with anti rust properties but I'm convinced that it will permanently damage your pivot/action or any other moving mechanisms on your spyderco knives. I finally realized it wasn't me and threw that crap away! It leaves some funky dry powder debris when it dries. Let's face it, 'dry' and 'lube' don't go together. Biggest waste of 10 bucks ever.
    I agree that buying Tuf-Glide for lubrication is not the best choice. Superglue? Not quite that bad but I like the way you describe your opinion. When I first got it I had been searching the net for corrosion control products. I started using it and immediately started searching for lubricants. I found Quick Release. That stuff is advertised as a great lubricant with good corrosion control attributes. The TG was advertised as mainly a corrosion control product. Then I read about Nano-oil and now use it. On my GB, having a non-stainless blade I put TG in the pivot. I wait a day and then add Nano-Oil which also advertises as being compatable with other oils.

    I believe Tuf-Glide is very good for corrosion control because I wanted to put a patina on a blade that I had already treated with TG and it wouldn't work. I figure if I can't force patina, which is a form of corrosion, the TG must be pretty good. I use a Tuf-Cloth for wiping the blades down with also.

    I did try one dry lube that uses a wax formula. It dries dry leaving a wax like residue. This type of lube is used a lot on bicycle chains and stuff like that. Since it is dry dust and dirt won't stick to it like it would on lubricants that remain wet. Evidently it's use is best for things that you know will be getting dirty or muddy like your racing bicycle or your kid's bicycle that he thinks is a submarine. Dry lubes must have their place I guess if the big time bicycle racing folks use it.
    Last edited by jackknifeh; 05-31-2013 at 05:43 AM. Reason: my keyboard can't spell. :)
    My Manbug. (ZDP-189 shaped like Jester blade with red bone scales (11-12-2013)). This was previously the VG-10/G-10 w/bolsters Manbug. Knife nickname: FrankenManJester or FrankenJesterBug.

  19. #19
    Spyderco Forum Registered User JNewell's Avatar
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    What they all wrote. TuffGlide is a superior metal protectant but as a lube it's a bad choice. I used it for several years and it attracted and retained all kinds of cr@p. Almost anything makes a better lube unless you make your living as a SEAL or a salt water fisherman.

  20. #20
    Spyderco Forum Registered User CaliMarine's Avatar
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    Tuf Glide = Super Glue

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill1170 View Post
    Same as Travis and Jackknife, I use Tuf-Glide as a corrosion barrier and Nano Oil for lubrication purposes.

    Great advice. Thanks to all for the Nano recommendation! Gonna get it particularly for pivot/action lubrication. Hope it's not a "dry" lube like "tuf-glue"! Something tells me that all these "petroleum distillates" are virtually the same. Glorified versions of wd-40 and even 3 in 1!

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