Slightly disappointed with XHP Para 2

[Orion's Belt]

I just got my XHP Para 2 in the mail and am not impressed with this one. It is super tight and when I tried loosening the pivot to smooth the action, it introduced massive side to side play. It also has up and down play. Upon further inspection, it seems that the stop pin is the problem. I tried loosening it and it smoothed up the action. But, the screws were not even tightened at all. If tightened, the action goes back to super tight.

I really don't like sending knives in for service, so should I just wait it out and hope it gets better or send it in and have the Spyder crew have a look?

[Slash]

Are you gonna use it?

[Orion's Belt]

Yes, that's the problem. It is so stiff that it is uncomfortable to open and close one handed. Lots of times, I rely on a one handed opening and closing knife so not having that ability is kind of a bummer.

[JNewell]

The Para2 is very sensitive to the tightness of both the stop pin screws and the pivot screws. Mine was very tight when I received it, too. I fixed it by loosening all four screws, then tightening the pivot so it was snug but smooth and easily opened. I then snugged the stop pin screws up very, very gently. This locked up the blade again, so I very, very, very slightly loosened the non-clip side pivot screw and all was well. I applied blue loctite before doing this. This has been my procedure for many Para2s and it has worked on all of them.

[Orion's Belt]

John, I'll try that, thanks.

[JNewell]

I think the only sprints (I have all the P2 sprints x2) that haven't needed at least a little tweak were one of the S90V and the two brown S35VN sprints. It's an assembly thing, not a parts manufacturing/tolerances/QC thing. As I said, I think the P2 is very sensitive to small changes. To reiterate, remove the clip, clean and loctite all four screws, loosen but do not remove the stop pin screws, tighten the clip side pivot screw fairly tight, tighten the other side to get correct blade action, tighten stop pin screws till they just make contact, then adjust the non-clip side pivot screw as necessary. Works for me...think it will work for you...let us know...it's a great, great knife. Sometimes they need a small tweak.

I guess I'm obliged to say: use properly fitting, quality tools; use care and common sense; proceed at your own risk since if you cause damage it may not be covered by the warranty...but this is not a Swiss watch or an interlock on the ISS...

[Orion's Belt]

I always use proper fitting tools. Wiha makes good stuff. When I get home, I'm going to try your method. Hopefully it helps! My standard Para 2 has no problems besides a slightly sticky lock.

[Benny90]

I also had some side to side play on mine, nothing too big and no up down play. However, I found it difficult to find the correct tightness/blade play compromise. After messing with it for days, I went ahead and removed the two pivot screws on either side. This wont disassemble the knife as it is still held in there by the pivot bushing system. After doing that I untightened the stop pin until it could spin freely. From there I tightened the stop pin back down using smaller incriments and switching sides until it was nice and snug. After that, I did the same method to the pivot screws. I am not sure if it is just a coincidence or not but that completely fixed the blade play and it still swings nicely with the compression lock depressed. Might be something to try. Mine might have just been too tightened on one side or something and removing and re-tightening them in small increments evenly fixed my issues completely.

[B22]

It's broken send it to me and I will dispose of it properly for you at no charge.

[Leatherneck]

I must be the luckiest Spydienut. The orange is on par with the smoothest Para I have ever owned. Perfectly centered and silky smooth. Opens and closes with almost zero effort.

[Orion's Belt]

JNewell's method definitely helped. I'm going to play around with it some more to see if I can get it perfect.

[Timbo114]

I've only had 2 Spydercos that didn't need tweaking.
Remember that there can even be some torque in the liners/scales ... as screws get tightened from tip to toe - so to speak.
Like JNewell said - It's wise to loosen every screw on the knife, DO add a drop of blue loctite, adjust the blade position and tension, (you can actually hand torque/twist the liners/scales to center the blade).
When you get what you want, you'll tighten the screws in similar fashion to lugnuts on your car - star pattern (vary the location left-right-up-down) to prevent the very torque that twists the blade centering off to one side.
Basically, you'll just be balancing the components of the knife via the screw tension.
I hope this makes sense to ya. I saw a vid about the torque - it truly works.

[Evil D]

Well, here's some perspective for ya. I've owned 3 Para 2's now, and every one of them has been better than the last. They all came out of the box with no blade play and pivots that were silky smooth, blades dropped by gravity and all that. But, they all developed blade play within about a month of EDC once they broke in. If i had the option, i'd choose the knife that's super tight right out of the box and hopefully it would break in to be just right, and not have blade play. My 20CP has side to side and the pivot is so tight i can't tighten it anymore.

[JNewell]

Ryan - glad that helped. I think if you fiddle a little you'll get it perfect. Good luck - I don't think you'll need much, if any.

John

JNewell's method definitely helped. I'm going to play around with it some more to see if I can get it perfect.

[JNewell]

Well, here's some perspective for ya. I've owned 3 Para 2's now, and every one of them has been better than the last. They all came out of the box with no blade play and pivots that were silky smooth, blades dropped by gravity and all that. But, they all developed blade play within about a month of EDC once they broke in. If i had the option, i'd choose the knife that's super tight right out of the box and hopefully it would break in to be just right, and not have blade play. My 20CP has side to side and the pivot is so tight i can't tighten it anymore.

I agree almost completely...would have agreed 100% before the Sunkist Para2 arrived. I don't feel that a little fastener-tweaking is a big deal, and I'm definitely not complaining even a little bit. I've said before and will say again that I really do think the continuing improvements achieved by Spyderco are very noticeable. Combine that with their incredible willingness to use new and advanced steels and it's a great time to be buying Spyderco knives.

[Slash]

JNewell's method definitely helped. I'm going to play around with it some more to see if I can get it perfect.

After you apply the loctite and get it right, leave it alone for at least 12 hrs.
The loctite takes time to set up.

[KardinalSyn]

Now if the thread title read something like "Help with Para2 breaking-in" or similar, that'd be nice.

I nearly passed on reading the thread as I tend to avoid disappointments. Pretty good info here.

[chuck_roxas45]

Hhhhmm maybe a compilation of fixes that is categorized under problem and model will be nice.

[Slash]

It's the employees job to tighten the screws sufficiently and make sure the lock engages. Not to fine tune/adjust each knife to ones personal preference.
Both mine just had to loosen the pivot and stop pin just a hair and add a few drops of oil to the pivot area. I'll worry about taking off the clip and putting loctite on all the screws if/when I use the knife and notice it loosening up.

As it is now I could play with this thing all day the way the blade drops so freely. There's not even a hint of play. Plus, my edges on both are perfectly even ground and real sharp.

Great job Spyderco!

[Jay_Ev]

Just a quick question, when you guys do all of this fine tuning & adjusting, do you do it with the blade in the locked, open position or do you do it with the blade closed? Thanks!