Blake
Listing of Blade-Length Laws by State/County (Not My Website)
http://www.handgunlaw.us/documents/USKnife.pdf
Blerv's Semi-Comprehensive Flashlight Guide
Agree with Jack alsoWe're all different, so whatever an individual chooses is fine. I only try to choose my own course which is to take responsibility for my edges good or bad.
BTW reprofiled the PPT at about the factory angle.......Sweet!!!
Enjoy your edges and keep 'em sharp![]()
Charlie
" Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not one bit simpler."
"Integrity is being good even if no one is watching"
Jackknifeh, Thanks you for the review and analysis of my pic of the Native 5 grind. The way you wrote it makes perfect sense when looking at the pic (even though it is grainy and poor quality). Looking at the blade in had what you describe is exactly what I see and you give excellent advise for what to do. The knife otherwise has excellent F&F, best I have seen in any Spyderco and I have had a few top end Spyderco's pass through my hands. So for the price, I am happy with it and could live with the less than perfect grind (probably more of a cosmetic issue for me when I look at one side of the blade vs the other). Once I use it an put a few scratches on the blade and use the sharpmaker I probably will not even anaylyze it so closely. Just easier to do when brand new and everything else on thje knife is so smooth, with tight lockup and outstanding F&F. Thanks again for all the input. I'll be getting a Manix 2 XL soon to go with the "baby original Manix"
I'm sure you can return it, but I don't think it's worth the hassle. Enough production knives have imperfect edge grind that know how to reprofile will save you a lot of headache down the road.
I would work on the edge myself, but if it bothers you enough to ship it off for a little bit to check and/or sharpen, I can't fault you. I just have a hard time getting rid of my precious![]()
Love and Fury,
D-FENS/Kris
Knives I love: Sage 4, Chaparral (CF), Bradley Folder, Dragonfly2, Manbug(s). These guys are the result of deciding to get one good knife.
MY CURRENT EDC
TOP: Bradley Folder
or (depending on picture)
TOP: Sage4: Now with black G-10 scales, stonewashed blade and bolsters
MIDDLE: Chaparral (CF)
BOTTOM: Manbug (G-10): Now has black G-10 scales, ZDP-189 blade ground to a Jester-like spine, stonewashed blade and bolsters
Fenix LD01 (single AAA flashlight) clips to Manbug FOB
I would like to point out to those that haven't made the jump to buying expensive custom knives that most of them aren't as sharp as the average Spyderco out of the box. This may be difficult to believe but it has been my experience. One guy who is so backed up he stopped taking orders and is considered the top of his field will only send you a blade with a hand sharpening, and a quick one at that from Norton medium type stone. His knives are very wear resistant and he recommends the Crystolon amongst other stones and basically sets the bevels appx. where he thinks they should be, and sends the knife off to you. It's your place to put the finish on the edge as only you, the buyer will know what your requirements really are. He's right if you think about it and I assure you there is nothing lazy or uncaring about him or the knives he produces. They are pretty much the highest performing knives I know of.
On the other end of the spectrum there are some imported knives that have "440" stainless as they call it. These knives are obviously sharpened with a jig and all the angles are near perfect. The edge is moderately thin but they don't cut as well as the most imperfect Spyderco you can find in my collection of over a hundred. Near perfect ( "eye perfect" is what it's called) edges aren't worth jack if the knives don't have any bite to them and won't cut.
If you put both edges up and saw an eye perfect blade with a mirror polish finish on a 12 dollar knife compared to the original posters actual knife and made the mistake of buying the prettier knife you would be doing yourself a big disservice.That's before any resharpening or re beveling is done straight out of the box. My opinion anyway.
"A Mastiff is to a dog what a Lion is to a housecat. He stands alone and all others sink before him. His courage does not exceed temper and generosity, and in attachment he equals the kindest of his race" Cynographia Britannic 1800
"Unless you're the lead dog the view is pretty much gonna stay the same!"
a·gent pro·vo·ca·teur
/äˌZHän(t) prəˌväkəˈtər/
Noun
A person who induces others to break the law so that they can be convicted.
http://sharpthings.net/
http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45696
I can't answer for Spyderco. Personally I'd rather have the hand sharpened knife that's corrected for any discrepancies or imperfections in the steel that comes from heat treat, or any of a number of things. The steels Spyderco uses don't bend and work like the low carbon ones Rough rider uses. I guess Spyderco could go all CNC like Chris Reeve. Tighten up all the tolerances. Of course that might slow down production and increase costs substantially. Note that the knives we're talking about don't cut or slice any better than Spydercos. In fact out of the box they aren't usually going to match up with the average Spyderco's slicing ability. Same with most other Mid tech knives.I'm sure you're right Joe but the question begs, why doesn't Spyderco use a sharpening jig then, if it's that easy to get an eye perfect bevel?
In the mean time I'm not going to tell anybody how to do their job. I buy what I like and don't buy what I don't like.
Joe
"A Mastiff is to a dog what a Lion is to a housecat. He stands alone and all others sink before him. His courage does not exceed temper and generosity, and in attachment he equals the kindest of his race" Cynographia Britannic 1800
"Unless you're the lead dog the view is pretty much gonna stay the same!"
About a jig. Of course I can't speak for Spyderco either but even using a jig I'm sure human error would still play a part. So, given Spyderco's dedication to quality I'd think they thought about using a jig and decided to go the way they do it now. OTOH, maybe it's one of those ideas that slipped by them and they would consider. I believe no matter how dedicated and professional a person or company is there may be areas that can be improved.
Jack
Knives I love: Sage 4, Chaparral (CF), Bradley Folder, Dragonfly2, Manbug(s). These guys are the result of deciding to get one good knife.
MY CURRENT EDC
TOP: Bradley Folder
or (depending on picture)
TOP: Sage4: Now with black G-10 scales, stonewashed blade and bolsters
MIDDLE: Chaparral (CF)
BOTTOM: Manbug (G-10): Now has black G-10 scales, ZDP-189 blade ground to a Jester-like spine, stonewashed blade and bolsters
Fenix LD01 (single AAA flashlight) clips to Manbug FOB
This is probably the best answer.
Why? The knives I mentioned with "eye perfect" bevels don't use CNC. You did mention a sharpening jig. I'm just curious if there's anything with Spyderco's knives or other factors, that preclude them using a sharpening jig.
Of course we know they don't compare for several reasons. Firstly, geometry, second, materials. But then we aren't talking about performance, we are talking about why the bevels are the way they are and comparing the bevel's appearance to the bevels that much less expensive knives can come with.
Nobody's telling anybody how to do their job. We are just curious why they do it the way they do.
Of course, but we can like something yet want something a little better on it, can't we? I love my paras but if they came with more even bevels, I'd be happier because they'd be easier to rebevel. I can just clean up the factory bevels and not have to take off more steel than necessary.
a·gent pro·vo·ca·teur
/äˌZHän(t) prəˌväkəˈtər/
Noun
A person who induces others to break the law so that they can be convicted.
http://sharpthings.net/
http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45696
I'm completely unqualified to try answering that.I'm just curious if there's anything with Spyderco's knives or other factors, that preclude them using a sharpening jig.
You have me on that one too. I've not had any problems with Spyderco that needed changing in my opinion, and in my opinion also, performance is everything. Of course I do care enough about looks to not buy slime green knives no matter how well they perform. That's about the extent of my feelings about looks. Perfection is in performance to me ( with above exception naturally)Of course we know they don't compare for several reasons. Firstly, geometry, second, materials. But then we aren't talking about performance, we are talking about why the bevels are the way they are and comparing the bevel's appearance to the bevels that much less expensive knives can come with.
There's always something I can find to improve a product someway, or somehow so it would suit me a bit better. With me it might be a few points higher hardness, or a different steel but I understand completely what you're saying.Of course, but we can like something yet want something a little better on it, can't we? I love my paras but if they came with more even bevels, I'd be happier because they'd be easier to rebevel. I can just clean up the factory bevels and not have to take off more steel than necessary.
Find the best knife or cutlery makers in the world though and count how many are hand grinding their edges. The thousand dollar Japanese sashimi knife. That's easy. Hand ground by a master cutler or his apprentice if he's of sufficient experience. How about the average knife maker that we deal with for our customs? Probably done exactly the same way Spyderco is doing it. I guess I just don't see a problem that needs addressing. I'm fine with my spydercos or I wouldn't be buying them.
Joe
"A Mastiff is to a dog what a Lion is to a housecat. He stands alone and all others sink before him. His courage does not exceed temper and generosity, and in attachment he equals the kindest of his race" Cynographia Britannic 1800
"Unless you're the lead dog the view is pretty much gonna stay the same!"