Edge Pro

[jackknifeh]

Ok thanks! I knew that the coarser grit stones will wear faster and one of the knives that I did had a ton of work to do on it, I used the diamond plate for most of it but I was reprofileing to a really low angle (prob. 22-23°) but I used the 220 stone a lot also, this is the only reason I flattened it a little bit. I will also try to flatten as few times as I can, probably a long time until I Really need to flatten the stones. I love the EP!! And thanks for all of the helpful info! Any more?

The only thing I can think of about the EP that you may be interested in is if you want to be able to hold the blade perfectly still from the beginning of a stroke to the end. Knives that don't have a flat spine will tend to pivot as you stroke the stone from the heel to the tip of the edge. As I would get closer to the tip I would have to hold the knife so the blade wouldn't pivot on any spot on the blade spine. Spyderco knives are the worst because most of them have the hump to make room for the opening hole. Here is a picture of what I make for knives I sharpen often. I call them Edge Guide Blocks (EGB). Yep, I even named them. I made them out of paint stirrers at first because the wood is easy to cut. Now I use left over pieces of vinyl siding which is plastic and easy to cut. They hold the blade perfectly still and solid. Every stroke is as perfect as I can make it.

What you do is place your material under the edge guide and tighten it down. Mark around the edge guide. Then lay the blade on top of the material in the position you want it in as you sharpen it and mark the shape of the spine of that knife. Remove the material and cut out what was under the edge guide and what was under the blade. When you use it place it in front and around the edge guide, place the knife spine in the outline of it, position the edge just in front of the edge table and tighten it down. Now the blade will stay perfectly still as you sharpen it. When you flip the blade over just flip the EGB over as well. It will hold the blade still for the other side. If you have any questions ask if you are interested in this. You do need one for each knife you have with a differnt spine shape.

Jack

[maa14]

Does the flattener have a blank on it for the EP to hold just like the stones do?

I bought a coarse, fine and extra fine set of DMT diamond stones a couple of years ago. They are 2"x6" I glued them to some blanks I made out of thin wood. They worked but I thought they were too heavy and when I wanted to use very light pressure the weight would make that hard. Is the flattener stone about 1/4" thick? I'm thinking if I really needed to remove a lot of steel I wouldn't need to worry about light strokes so the weight wouldn't be a problem.

Yes it does! I think you can get the diamond "plates" in a 1X6 like the regular size EP stones. The plates are basically the aluminum blanks with a piece of diamond covered paper but it is much tougher than paper so they are really pretty light. And it is only like the thickness of the aluminum blank though

[maa14]

The only thing I can think of about the EP that you may be interested in is if you want to be able to hold the blade perfectly still from the beginning of a stroke to the end. Knives that don't have a flat spine will tend to pivot as you stroke the stone from the heel to the tip of the edge. As I would get closer to the tip I would have to hold the knife so the blade wouldn't pivot on any spot on the blade spine. Spyderco knives are the worst because most of them have the hump to make room for the opening hole. Here is a picture of what I make for knives I sharpen often. I call them Edge Guide Blocks (EGB). Yep, I even named them. I made them out of paint stirrers at first because the wood is easy to cut. Now I use left over pieces of vinyl siding which is plastic and easy to cut. They hold the blade perfectly still and solid. Every stroke is as perfect as I can make it.

What you do is place your material under the edge guide and tighten it down. Mark around the edge guide. Then lay the blade on top of the material in the position you want it in as you sharpen it and mark the shape of the spine of that knife. Remove the material and cut out what was under the edge guide and what was under the blade. When you use it place it in front and around the edge guide, place the knife spine in the outline of it, position the edge just in front of the edge table and tighten it down. Now the blade will stay perfectly still as you sharpen it. When you flip the blade over just flip the EGB over as well. It will hold the blade still for the other side. If you have any questions ask if you are interested in this. You do need one for each knife you have with a differnt spine shape.

Jack

That is awesome thanks!

[razorsharp]

How are the edges after denim...just to reassure me it wasn't my imagination lol.

[maa14]

How are the edges after denim...just to reassure me it wasn't my imagination lol.

Idk It seems that leather has worked better.... I am really not sure?

[razorsharp]

Idk It seems that leather has worked better.... I am really not sure?

Maybe its my imagination (which I doubt ) maybe its my fingers nerve endings have been cut too much in the 3 finger test or maybe its just my pants

[maa14]

Maybe its my imagination (which I doubt ) maybe its my fingers nerve endings have been cut too much in the 3 finger test or maybe its just my pants

I don't know... I think it is the 3 finger test

[maa14]

So far the edge pro is great!!! Now I want the Gayle Bradley a lot