Maintaining ZDP, SharpMaker, Lansky, Edge Pro?

[kbuzbee]

I can't speak on the Wicked Edge, but the Lanksy isn't good for much over 4 inches. As for the Edge Pro, the first knife i did on it was a large chef's knife and it worked beautifully.

Thanks Brother! I have a Lansky and I totally agree with you. Kinda what prompted the question about the other two.

Appreciate the input!

Ken

[Popsickle]

Wicked edge is amazing

[chuck_roxas45]

I'll add a question to this thread regarding systems (specifically EP and Wicked, I suppose) when using them on longer knives, like 8"-10" kitchen knives. Do they work well? I've use 8"x3" bench stones freehand for larger knives but I've always wondered if larger knives were a problem for these "systems"?

Ken

I did a Tramontina on the EP. Musta been 14" or 16". No problems at all.

[kbuzbee]

Wicked edge is amazing

Looking at their instructions, it looks like 30° inclusive is the least angle you can set. Am I reading that correctly?

EP goes lower, doesn't it? I want to be able to set a 20° back bevel on a few knives.

Cheers,

Ken

[.357 mag]

Looking at their instructions, it looks like 30° inclusive is the least angle you can set. Am I reading that correctly?

EP goes lower, doesn't it? I want to be able to set a 20° back bevel on a few knives.

Cheers,

Ken

The EP apex will go down to 9-10 degrees

[kbuzbee]

The EP apex will go down to 9-10 degrees

Excellent!

Thanks,

Ken

[Jet B]

Looking at their instructions, it looks like 30° inclusive is the least angle you can set. Am I reading that correctly?

EP goes lower, doesn't it? I want to be able to set a 20° back bevel on a few knives.

Cheers,

Ken

The lowest setting marked is 15 degrees, however, there are methods to go lower. Clay has a lot of tutorials on his Youtube channel, and one of them is how to sharpen a straight Razor. I really enjoy using my Wicked Edge. It has a method for consistently re-clamping the blades you work on into the same position every time so coming back to strop or do touch ups doesn't require much time.

Also, to answer your other question, yes I have sharpened fairly large blades. I have done my wife's 8 inch chef knife and my Schempp Rock. I would even clamp my 13 inch machete in there when it needs it (haven't yet though). The angle obviously narrows ever so slightly at the back and front of the blade but you minimize the effect by clamping around the middle of the blade and it's not really a problem because when you come back to touch up the angle will be consistent. You can even do a convex bevel very quickly with it as well by forming multiple facets and then blending them with the strops. Now that I have profiled and set all my edges on my knives, I'm finding that all I have to do for touch ups and maintenance is clamp my knives in and strop them to bring back the hair popping edge in minutes.

The biggest issue with the WEPS is learning to clamp full flat ground blades and others with odd shapes and swedges etc. It can be done though, but it takes certain methods and tricks to get them perfectly vertical. Most of my knives are FFG Spydercos and I don't have any issues clamping them now that I understand how to do it. Again, the YouTube videos Clay makes really help with the learning.

Another thing to note, the customer service they have is second to none from my experience. I would rank them right up there with companies like Spyderco in that department.

I hope that info helps you make an informed decision. Check out Youtube to learn more about what a WEPS can do. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jhR3j...S2_6TgxoSf0sZ2

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5APdX...qxly9D-XmL79nR

[jackknifeh]

I'll add a question to this thread regarding systems (specifically EP and Wicked, I suppose) when using them on longer knives, like 8"-10" kitchen knives. Do they work well? I've use 8"x3" bench stones freehand for larger knives but I've always wondered if larger knives were a problem for these "systems"?

Ken

The Edge Pro has about 4" of area that the stone works within (right in front of the EP). Slide the longer knives along as you work along the blade. You'd want to go slow at first. Then speed comes naturaly with experience. The EP does a great job. I've never tried the WE.

Jack

[Sequimite]

Jerry Hossom's method: (from a thread on Blade forums)


This assumes you have a 1x30 or 1x42 belt sander. They can be had from discount equipment suppliers such as Harbor Freight or Enco for as little as $40. Get one. You'll find a lot of other uses for the sander so the money is well spent.

Now go to Lee Valley Tools for sharpening belts. http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=...,43072 I'd suggest the following to get started. (Started as in these will probably last you forever.) Understand that you don't use all of these on all knives or steels. It usually depends on how bad the edge is and if it's tool steel or high alloy stuff.

Aluminum Oxide Belts: 180, 320, 500, 1200.

15 Micron SiC belts (get two, you'll probably use these exclusively after you get your knives sharp to start with.)

Leather Honing Belt. This is what makes owning a belt sander worth it. It's basically a power strop and can put a fine polished edge on a blade in no time. You might want to get two. Use one with compound for polishing and keep the second one clean for just stropping.

Then go to

http://www.popsknifesupplies.com/compound.html (THIS LINK DOES NOT WORK ANYMORE)

Buy the 525 white compound. It should last you for the rest of your life. You might also want to get some of the HF1 compound which is finer, and for very fine edges on small knives could be a good choice. While there, brouse around. There are many other ways to spend money, including getting your own Bader BIII Variable Speed Grinder.

Start with the finest belt first and move to more aggressive belts as you get a handle on how they cut. If you have some cheap kitchen knives, they're great for learning on. Once you get a feel for this you'll be starting with a belt that's close to what you need for each kind of knife and how dull it is. 500 grit, 1200 grit then 15 micron is probably good for most knives. If the edge is in pretty good shape, jump right to 15 microns and be done with it. If it's in really bad shape start with 320, or if you are entirely reprofiling the edge on a large knife use the 180.

What you are going to be trying to do is to raise a fine wire edge along the blade, holding the blade at about 15-20 degrees to the belt (edge down). You'll know what a wire edge is when you first see it. It will look like the edge is falling off, and in a way it is. Use a light touch until you see how each belt cuts, and gently press the edge into the belt with the edge held on the belt in a slack portion just below the top idler wheel or above the platen at the bottom. (Oh yeah, throw away all the safety shields; they just get in the way.) You want a slack belt, but not too slack so stay near where the belt is supported or has backing.

In all cases, except with the leather polishing belt, take one pass of the edge across the belt, then dip it in some water (a bucket is nice) and wipe dry. Repeat. This will be a drag when you get started, and when you get a feel for how the heat builds up on the edge you can probably take 2-3-4 passes before dipping. But DON'T let the edge get hot. DON'T let the edge get HOT!! This isn't all that difficult or threatening to the blade; you just need to be aware of heat build up.

Once you have a very fine wire edge with the 15 micron belt, put on the leather belt and apply some white compound, not too much. Strop the edge against the leather belt - at the same angle. This will polish the edge and strip away most or all of the wire. If some wire is still there, you can remove it with a wad of paper towel run along the length of the edge.

Play with angles as you see fit. depending on the type of knives and whether you want hair popping sharp and seriously tough. In either case you will get a convex edge which is inherently tougher than flat bevels. Don't try to get the most insane, hair popping edge the first time you try this. You won't. It takes a little skill and time to get a feel for how the belts cut the steel, and for how they interact with each type of steel and kind of edge. That said, you'll probably get the sharpest edge most people have ever seen in less time than you thought possible.