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Thread: Tips on sharpening S30V

  1. #1
    Spyderco Forum Registered User DRKBC's Avatar
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    Tips on sharpening S30V

    I have a Sharpmaker but I just can't seem to get my Sibenza that sharp. I watched Sal's video again to make sure my technique was correct but I just can't seem to get a very fine edge on it. I must be doing somehting wrong any thoughts or tips?

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    Spyderco Forum Registered User
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    S30V takes time to put a good edge on it. I could easily put a nice relaxing hour into an S30V blade if it had lost its edge. I've learned to not let them get that dull. I'll give an s30v or vg10 knife a few swipes on my UF stones before I leave my house in the morning.
    Too many Spydies to list!

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    Reeve typically runs a convex edge, if you have not sharpened yours before it would take awhile to plane down the convex edge into a v-grind. I would check the edge with a marker to see if in fact you are actually hitting the very edge.

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    Spyderco Forum Registered User DRKBC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cliff Stamp View Post
    Reeve typically runs a convex edge, if you have not sharpened yours before it would take awhile to plane down the convex edge into a v-grind. I would check the edge with a marker to see if in fact you are actually hitting the very edge.
    Thanks, so just to be clear; I should mark the convex part of the edge both sides and then see if I am taking material off?

  5. #5
    Spyderco Forum Registered User gull wing's Avatar
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    S30v, ZDP189, are a little more challenging than others.

    I'm not a skilled knife sharpener(I don't spend hours on the bench stones). I find it tedious, so I spent as little time as I can sharpening. I do however, keep my knives sharp.

    The key is to KEEP the knife sharp, instead of trying to sharpen a very dull knife on a Sharpmaker.*

    1. On a dull blade reprofile the edge...then....
    2. KEEP the knife sharp by touching the edge up on a Sharpmaker.

    Reprofile on a benchstone, Edge Pro, Paper Wheel.(Don't use a beltgrinder unless you are quite skilled) I USE PAPER WHEELS, FAST AND THEY DON'T EAT UP YOUR BLADE, THE LEARNING CURVE IS SHORT.

    *(diamond sleeves may work)
    Waiting for....Calypso Jr.,

    SCARAMOUCHE!

  6. #6
    Spyderco Forum Registered User DRKBC's Avatar
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    It's not really dull I keep on it but I am just finding it hard to get it razor sharp. Could be as someone just metionend that it is a convex blade?

  7. #7
    Spyderco Forum Registered User dbcad's Avatar
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    Try to see what you're doing to the edge. A sharpie marker works well. If you're going to take off the stock convex edge it might take some time
    Charlie

    " Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not one bit simpler."

    "Integrity is being good even if no one is watching"

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    Spyderco Forum Registered User chuck_roxas45's Avatar
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    As Sal said, a loupe is no. 1 teacher.
    I always heard that you catch more flies with honey than with vinegar, but then you catch even more flies with poop



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  9. #9
    Spyderco Forum Registered User DRKBC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuck_roxas45 View Post
    As Sal said, a loupe is no. 1 teacher.
    I was in the Jewellery industry for many years so I definitely have one of those!

  10. #10
    Spyderco Forum Registered User DRKBC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbcad View Post
    Try to see what you're doing to the edge. A sharpie marker works well. If you're going to take off the stock convex edge it might take some time
    thanks Charlie, that makes a lot of sense I couldn't understand why I couldn't get it sharp. Now that I know its a convex edge ... it all makes sense to me. I will try the Sharpie and a Loupe and see how I make out.

  11. #11
    Spyderco Forum Registered User STAK's Avatar
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    Sebenza has a convex edge so when you try to get it sharp the only think you do is wasting your time . . . . You have to reprofile the edge of your Sebenza first and then touch-it up on your Sharpmaker . . . .

  12. #12
    Spyderco Forum Registered User dbcad's Avatar
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    Cliff said it earlier in the thread, I only reiterated. Bottom line is to know where you removing material. Sharpening is a matter of making both sides of the blade meet in the middle with precision You'll get it
    Charlie

    " Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not one bit simpler."

    "Integrity is being good even if no one is watching"

  13. #13
    Spyderco Forum Registered User DRKBC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbcad View Post
    Cliff said it earlier in the thread, I only reiterated. Bottom line is to know where you removing material. Sharpening is a matter of making both sides of the blade meet in the middle with precision You'll get it
    I hope so, its either that or I end up with a sibenza that I have used my skills to hone the blade from sharp to a training knife
    Last edited by DRKBC; 11-26-2011 at 08:27 PM.

  14. #14
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    Sebbie is convex. Best to strop it or put a micro bevel on it. Less you feel like doing a reprofile job as others mentioned.

    Could use a mouse pad and various grits of sandpaper depending on how dull it is to keep/restore the convex edge
    Then strop as finishing touch.
    Last edited by Slash; 11-26-2011 at 07:41 PM.

  15. #15
    Spyderco Forum Registered User chuck_roxas45's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slash View Post
    Sebbie is convex. Best to strop it or put a micro bevel on it. Less you feel like doing a reprofile job as others mentioned.

    Could use a mouse pad and various grits of sandpaper depending on how dull it is to keep/restore the convex edge
    Then strop as finishing touch.
    Yeh, that's a good idea. Keep it convex and just strop it. 6u diamond paste is quite aggressive.
    I always heard that you catch more flies with honey than with vinegar, but then you catch even more flies with poop



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  16. #16
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Evil D's Avatar
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    I'm not sure how much this will help since I use a Lansky, but I always do a few strokes with my fine diamond stone, then hone it out with the 1000 and then 2000 grit stones, and it's always crazy sharp by the time I start the 2000 stone. If I've used the knife more than just casual cuts it does no good to start with the finer stones, but just a few passes on the fine diamond gets it right where I need it for the finer stones.

    SHARPEN IT LIKE YOU LOVE IT, USE IT LIKE YOU HATE IT
    ~David

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  17. #17
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Buy a Stretch with ZDP-189. Use all your knowledge and the advice from here and lots of practice. Take breaks when you get frustrated. It may take a week or two but soon you will be able to sharpen ZDP like it is VG-10. It will take a razor edge. I was getting razor edges on all my knives then I bought one with ZDP-189. I just couldn't get it sharp. After much advice and practice I can now sharpen ZDP with no problems. After that no steel will be a problem. That's what I believe. I got S30V after that and never had any problems with it.

    Key points that helped me with harder steels:
    Use a micro bevel because when doint that you are sharpening a very narrow bevel that will allow an edge to be created much easier than creating an edge on a wide bevel (lower angle). Use lighter strokes on the final few strokes. Be patient as the harder steels will require more strokes to remove the same amount of steel. Of course use the marker often to verify where you are hitting the edge with the stones.

    Jack
    PS: You don't really have to buy a Stretch, I just thought needing it to learn to sharpen better is a good excuse.

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

  18. #18
    Spyderco Forum Registered User DRKBC's Avatar
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    Thanks for the great advice guys, I am going to put all your excellent suggestions to work tomorrow and Jack, I will let my wife know that I need to buy another knife so that I can learn to shapren all the other knives I own.

  19. #19
    Spyderco Forum Registered User DRKBC's Avatar
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    Thanks a lot guys, I used the sharpie, marked the edge of the blade and that helped a huge amount. Took my time on the 30 degree side of the sharp maker with both stones and then worked on getting a bevel on it on the 40 degree side. Used my loop and to make a long story shorter you can split hairs with it now. Once I collect some more supplies I will try some of the other great tips you gave me. great results... thanks again.

  20. #20
    Spyderco Forum Registered User dbcad's Avatar
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    Excellent.....

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