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Thread: Show those Edges !!!!!

  1. #601
    Spyderco Forum Registered User 78lilred's Avatar
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    That is awesome.
    M390 Para2, CTS-XHP Para2, CTS-204P Para2, Gayle Bradley, Techno, Bob T Slipit, M390 Mule, Southard, Southfork, Air, Tuff, ZDP Caly 3.5.

  2. #602
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by razorsharp View Post


    I zero ground then microbeveled my tuff on a sharpmaker rod
    Really nice work. Love the micro-bevel. It's barely visible and possibly invisible unless the light is right. I only like to use the word "micro" when the edge looks like that. When the bevel gets bigger I like to say edge-bevel just to make a determination between the REALLY small edge bevel and larger, wider bevels. Might just be me but an edge like that seems to hide the actual sharpness until you cut somethintn (finger ).

    Jack

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

  3. #603
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Donut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackknifeh View Post
    I only like to use the word "micro" when the edge looks like that. When the bevel gets bigger I like to say edge-bevel just to make a determination between the REALLY small edge bevel and larger, wider bevels. Might just be me but an edge like that seems to hide the actual sharpness until you cut somethintn (finger ).

    Jack
    What about when you have both a bevel and a micro bevel, then what do you call the micro bevel?
    -Brian
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  4. #604
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Donut View Post
    What about when you have both a bevel and a micro bevel, then what do you call the micro bevel?

    Spyderco's terminology is edge bevel and back bevel. I like this reference to both bevels because the word "edge" is obviously the VERY edge apex. Murray Carter uses the terms "primary bevel" and "secondary bevel" where the primary is the edge apex. Other people have different terms so we need to know what we are talking about here. That is tough sometimes because of the different backgrounds and terminology people use.

    So, I call the edge apex bevel the edge bevel. When the edge bevel is very small and not obvious using the naked eye I call it a "micro"-bevel because micro means small. If the width of the bevel is wide enough to be obvious I use the term "edge"-bevel. The lower angle above the edge bevel I call the "back"-bevel. THERE IS ONLY ONE EDGE BEVEL IMO. If I sharpen a knife with a 24 degree "back"-bevel and an edge bevel of 36 degrees and then put a micro-bevel on it at 40 degrees I call the edge apex (40 degrees) the micro bevel and there are now two back bevels. Once I used the EP to put a 40 degree edge bevel on an Endura. Then I put a 36 degree back bevel, then a 32 degree back bevel, then a 28 degree back bevel on it. I was trying to create a convex (sort of) edge with several flat bevels. This worked very nicely BTW and Iwas then able to round off each "corner" at the angle changes. So I call the edge apex micro-bevel or edge-bevel depending on the size. Any bevels above that I call back-bevel 1, 2, 3, etc. This is just a way to talk about the angles on a edge. Idon't think there is an industry standard terminology glossary. It seems different people and/or companies use whatever they like best.

    Jack

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

  5. #605
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Holland's Avatar
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    1000 grit, 14 DPS no micro bevel. should have stropped a little longer. o well, patina will ruin the shine anyway





    600 grit, 15 DPS sharpmaker 40 degree micro bevel


    same story
    Phil Wilson Smoke Creek s110v, SouthFork, Gayle Bradley, Chaparral 1, Chaparral 2, Native 5, Para2, Para1 SE, Caly 3, Dragonfly 2, Dragonfly 2, Delica 4, Ladybug 3


    -Spencer

  6. #606
    Spyderco Forum Registered User xceptnl's Avatar
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    Some nice looking, purpose made edges you have there Spencer!
    My 's:
    Native, Manix 2 (BD1,154CM,S30V,M4,XHP,S110V,Cruwear), Delica 4 (White,Red,Brown,Blue,BRG,G-10), Spyderhawk, D'fly (H1,G-10,SB), Police3, Volpe, Military (S30V,XHP,D2,M390,BG42,440V,Cruwear), Superleafs, Forager, D2 Para, Kopas, Kiwis, Caly (JR's,3,3.5), Para2 (XHP,204P), Stretch (SS,FRN's,CF), Rescues, Dyad Jr, Pingos, Southard, AIR, Jess Horns, Forum N5, Lil Matriarch, Barong, Superhawk, Chinook II, ATR, SPY-DK, Captain, Ti UKPK, Mules

    *Landon*

  7. #607
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Holland's Avatar
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    Thanks!
    Phil Wilson Smoke Creek s110v, SouthFork, Gayle Bradley, Chaparral 1, Chaparral 2, Native 5, Para2, Para1 SE, Caly 3, Dragonfly 2, Dragonfly 2, Delica 4, Ladybug 3


    -Spencer

  8. #608
    Spyderco Forum Registered User MadRookie's Avatar
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    ...methinks I detect a burr somewhere.....

    Looking good.


  9. #609
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Holland's Avatar
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    just did some more passes on the SM with all of them to get rid of the burrs
    Phil Wilson Smoke Creek s110v, SouthFork, Gayle Bradley, Chaparral 1, Chaparral 2, Native 5, Para2, Para1 SE, Caly 3, Dragonfly 2, Dragonfly 2, Delica 4, Ladybug 3


    -Spencer

  10. #610
    Spyderco Forum Registered User MadRookie's Avatar
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    Relief bevel of 15 dps with micro-bevel of 18 dps @ 500# Shapton Glass....






















  11. #611
    Spyderco Forum Registered User 78lilred's Avatar
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    Beautiful polish as usual, how do you like the 500 vs the 220 finish?
    M390 Para2, CTS-XHP Para2, CTS-204P Para2, Gayle Bradley, Techno, Bob T Slipit, M390 Mule, Southard, Southfork, Air, Tuff, ZDP Caly 3.5.

  12. #612
    Spyderco Forum Registered User MadRookie's Avatar
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    The 500# gives a cleaner cut when working with food stuffs & the 220# is a better slicer for an EDC.

    I suppose the difference is marginal really, but it is there.

    I would not venture higher than the 500# for a solid working knife.


  13. #613
    Spyderco Forum Registered User 78lilred's Avatar
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    Just curious on if I "needed" to get a 220/320 Shapton as I currently own a 500 and 1k. Thanks for the reply.
    M390 Para2, CTS-XHP Para2, CTS-204P Para2, Gayle Bradley, Techno, Bob T Slipit, M390 Mule, Southard, Southfork, Air, Tuff, ZDP Caly 3.5.

  14. #614
    Spyderco Forum Registered User MadRookie's Avatar
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    Naah, the 500# is cool.

    But if you do not have a coarse stone for setting bevels, get the 220# or save the money towards Atoma plates.....

    You will not need the 320# in between the 220# & 500# stones.



  15. #615
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jackknifeh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 78lilred View Post
    Just curious on if I "needed" to get a 220/320 Shapton as I currently own a 500 and 1k. Thanks for the reply.
    Quote Originally Posted by MadRookie View Post
    Naah, the 500# is cool.

    But if you do not have a coarse stone for setting bevels, get the 220# or save the money towards Atoma plates.....

    You will not need the 320# in between the 220# & 500# stones.


    MR has a lot more experience than I do but I agree with him. I have the 320 and 1k bench stone. I have the 500 and 1k EP stones. A 320 would be wasted since you have the 500. The 320 cuts really fast so I know the 220 would be a really good stone for setting bevels and jumping to the 500 would be doable I'm sure as MR said.

    The Atoma's is another option. I've used DMT stones a lot and love them. EVERYONE who has used DMT's and Atoma's swear the Atoma's are worth the extra cost. I would LOVE to get some Atoma's so I consider the considerations. Shapton glass stones cut VERY good and don't wear as much as most other water stones (I've read). So flattening is not AS needed as other stones but it is needed some. Atoma's don't need flattening and I assume it used properly will last until your grandkids sharpen knives. So for me and how I feel about the extra cost is I go with the Shapton glass. I love them, they work great, they don't wear fast so it's not like you will need to replace them in one or two or three years. And you keep a few $ in your pocket for something else. Since both are great performers the $ make the decision for me (for right now). If, after getting the Shapton glass I still want to try the Atoma's I have lots of time if needed to put money back for them since I now have a GREAT set of stones that will do everything I need or want. The only difference then would be using water or not. Atoma's don't need water so are faster and cleaner for touch ups. But, I prefer using water with diamond stones anyway so I'd still have a bit of a mess.

    Why is it we can decide life long family and career decisions with ease but which stone or knife to buy will put us in the grave?

    Jack

    My EDC for a while. Stretch with carbon fiber handle, Chaparral 2, Dragonfly 2 with kirinite MOP handle, Manbug with bolster/red bone handle. Super blue/420J1 blades on all three (except Chaparral).

  16. #616
    Spyderco Forum Registered User MadRookie's Avatar
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    Why is it we can decide life long family and career decisions with ease but which stone or knife to buy will put us in the grave?


    So true - could not have summarized it better.....


  17. #617
    Spyderco Forum Registered User 78lilred's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MadRookie View Post
    Naah, the 500# is cool.

    But if you do not have a coarse stone for setting bevels, get the 220# or save the money towards Atoma plates.....

    You will not need the 320# in between the 220# & 500# stones.


    hahah I've got mold masters in 80/120/150/240/320/400 + an extra coarse diamond hone for flattening/bevel setting. Also dmt 2x6 XC/C/F/EF. The 500/1k Shapton glass are really nice and still getting used to having a 3x8 stone compared to the 1x5 MM's.

    Jack - As for diamonds I would love to get ahold of Atoma's someday but for now my knives get sharp enough with current rotation that a new knife is always needed before sharpening equipment... Such is addiction. For the record my Tuff has a 500# finish currently and it works great, also did very well with a MM 400# finish.
    M390 Para2, CTS-XHP Para2, CTS-204P Para2, Gayle Bradley, Techno, Bob T Slipit, M390 Mule, Southard, Southfork, Air, Tuff, ZDP Caly 3.5.

  18. #618
    Spyderco Forum Registered User MadRookie's Avatar
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    There you go....case closed.


  19. #619
    Spyderco Forum Registered User 78lilred's Avatar
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    Since I hijacked the thread here's a photo of unsteady handy work, scratches towards the tip are from use not sharpening. Photo credit to cloudy day of no real natural light.
    #500 Shapton Glass. It cuts if you push hard enough and lots of sawing motions.
    M390 Para2, CTS-XHP Para2, CTS-204P Para2, Gayle Bradley, Techno, Bob T Slipit, M390 Mule, Southard, Southfork, Air, Tuff, ZDP Caly 3.5.

  20. #620
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