It sounds like you are describing something I've seen on a couple of knives, even brand new. Does it look like the blade was held up to a power grinder a little longer than the rest of the blade? If so the area around the "spot" will need to be sharpened down to where the "spot" is being hit with the stone. This could mean removing a lot of steel from perfectly good parts of the edge. Instead of doing that I have sharpened the "spot" just enough to get it to cut. Then as time goes on, after a number of sharpenings the rest of the edge will get closer to where the "spot" is getting sharpened with the rest of the edge. Depending on how deep the spot is may determine what you use to sharpen it. You may need to just use the corner of the Sharpmaker rods to get into what I'm picturing as a "re-curve" edge. Actually, this shape of edge is desireable to some people. I have a knife with a "S" shaped edge. It has a slight recurve from the heel to the belly and then the standard shape to the tip. It's nice for cutting rope. Not like a hawkbill but kind of close. It does sound like you need the diamond rods though. One think about diamond stones is they require a break-in period. They feel VERY coarse at first then after several sharpenings they feel like they may not be cutting steel at all but they are. Just check your edge often to make sure you don't remove too much steel because you don't think much steel is being removed. I also agree with Mongatu about stop using the diamond rod just before hitting the very edge.
I think to get the high mirror polish you want is to get a pair of UF white rods for your Sharpmaker and a good strop also. I have one UF rod and it works great for touch-ups to keep a slightly dull edge razor sharp again with little effort. I've been VERY impressed with how Spyderco's ceramic stones perform. For a strop I bought some leather from a web site at a good price (I thought) and use DMT diamond paste. The 1 micron does a really good job. Leather I like for strops because it "forms" to the shape of the bevel. I have cow hide which is soft and "forms" nicely to the bevel. I've though about getting something coarser to polish the bevel (25 micron or so). It would remove small scratches better than the 1 micron paste if there still are any I think. Horse hide which is much harder is what I use for the very edge to "finalize" the sharpness. There are other companies that make diamond paste but I've been using DMT products and they are top shelf in performance. So, I probably won't try another company unless they are really cheap or some people whose opinion I trust say it performs as good or better. I hope this helps but remember this, I'm not an expert. I've only come to what I think in the past 2 or 3 years or so. I will say that a LOT of what I've learned has come from people on this forum.
MY CURRENT EDC
Sage4: Now with black linen (micarta) scales, stonewashed blade and bolsters
Manbug (G-10): Now has camo-desert kirinite scales, ZDP-189 blade ground to a Jester-like spine, stonewashed blade and bolsters
Fenix LD01 (single AAA flashlight) clips to Manbug FOB