how do you sharpen your knives

[drewskeez]

i was just wondering how you guys sharpen your knives and what angles you uses i sharpen free hand i start with dmt 220 then a 600 diamond stone (that i got at bass pro about 3 or 4 years ago) then a dmt 1200 then a dmt 8000 then my spyderco 306uf but on softer steels i skip the dmt 8000 and go straght to the spyderco 306uf and finidh with a strop the angle vaies from 9 to 14 per side
ps this is my first post and hope every one had a marry christmas

[chuck_roxas45]

36 degrees inclusive with the Edge Pro taken to 3000 grit polish tape.

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[Dr. Snubnose]

I sharpen Free-Hand....A few scrapes against the curb and I'm good to go....Doc

[chuck_roxas45]

I sharpen Free-Hand....A few scrapes against the curb and I'm good to go....Doc

Doc, very understated as usual.

[The Deacon]

Freehand, using DMT diamond bench stones. Most times just use the fine grit on pocket knives and x-fine on kitchen knives, but have the coarse for times when major restoration is required. I go for what I consider a working edge, rather than a polished one.

[Chris_H]

I use a Sharpmaker about 80% of the time. I stick pretty much to the 30° setting for virtually all of my pocket knives, and use the 40° setting for my kitchen cutlery.

The other percentage is free hand with a slew of different bench stones; I use the bench stones for my straight razors too.

[.357 mag]

the Edge Pro taken to 3000 grit polish tape.

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Same here. I did the factory angle which was about 15.5 degrees per side on my new delica4 Zdp and I just ordered the 6000 grit tapes.

I go for what I consider a working edge, rather than a polished one.

Do you not consider a polished edge a working edge? I find a polished edge holds and slices better than a non-polished edge.

[Evil D]

I sharpen Free-Hand....A few scrapes against the curb and I'm good to go....Doc

Funny thing is i can actually remember being 6 years old trying to sharpen a knife on a concrete sidewalk.

I sharpen with a Lansky but i'm interested in trying out a Gatco and/or Edge Pro if i can ever cough up the cash for one.

[bada61265]

ive always sharpened by hand and eye untill recently. i use the sharpmaker now most of the time. i free hand on a diamond bench stone to repair an edge and get it to where i can run it threw the sharpmaker.

[Joshua J.]

i was just wondering how you guys sharpen your knives and what angles you uses i sharpen free hand i start with dmt 220 then a 600 diamond stone (that i got at bass pro about 3 or 4 years ago) then a dmt 1200 then a dmt 8000 then my spyderco 306uf but on softer steels i skip the dmt 8000 and go straght to the spyderco 306uf and finidh with a strop the angle vaies from 9 to 14 per side
ps this is my first post and hope every one had a marry christmas

Pretty much the same for me.

Either coarse diamonds or a utility stone to set the bevel, then I go through the Spyderco ceramic benchstones to polish it up, finishing with the strop.
I usually aim for ten degrees per side.

[ChapmanPreferred]

Sharpmaker, belt sanders, belt grinder, paper wheels, sandpaper over a mouse pad, sandpaper over plate glass, etc...

[bowarrow2000]

Free hand, DMT benchstones, Norton India stone, wet/dry sandpaper sometimes.

[unit]

I use MANY methods depending on the knife, its intended use/purpose, the steel, and my amount of time.

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This one was free hand on DMT stones then I switched to Spyderco UF and did what you see here. 30 degree inclusive for S30V on an EDC blade...works well for just about everything.

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The video is long and tiresome at times, but I assure you that toward the end it illustrates some methods that you will not see discussed very often. I like to think it demonstrates some important principles also. This blade is H-1...I used a similar technique to reprofile it...I included the video to show a wedge/jig that I frequently use to set the angle I desire. I like to run H-1 with a typical 40 degree edge with a 30 degree back bevel.

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This is CTS-BD1 a favorite of mine. This one was polished on a leather strop with 0.5 micron polish...it will perform some fantastic cuts. Lately. I stop at the 3 micron diamond stone (DMT Extra Extra Fine) and it also seems to perform best for me with the typical 30 degree bevel with no micro bevel. If I get lazy or pressed for time I will slap on a 40 degree micro bevel instead of fully restoring the 30 single bevel...but it does not perform as well as shown in the video.


This is a ZDP-189 Stretch (Spyderco). This is my "hard cutter" It gets used for all sorts of hard cutting through heterogeneous media (especially tires...I decommission a lot of tires at work). This knife sports a 9 degree inclusive edge with no micro bevel...and actually retains that edge exceptionally well. Here is a video of what it did at 13 degrees inclusive (and it seems to do as well at 9). If you take this blade to hard plastic or start doing torsional cuts the edge will not last at all. This edge was put on free hand using a wedge similar to the second video, except it was modified to accommodate very low angles.


This is a non-Spyderco that I included because it represents a Hard-Use knife well. With 1095 (carbon steel) I find that the Sharpmaker (or Spyderco ceramics) are fantastic as are wet-dry sandpaper. This knife was convexed to take the shoulders off and improve slicing ability (this blade is ridiculously thick) then I put a 40 degree bevel on with the sharpmaker. The things I do with this knife...I giggle to think about...but suffice to say chopping golf balls and such will degrade the edge to the point where it will no longer shave...and because I am too lazy to fully restore the edge (knowing I am just going to tear it up again) I pull out the Sharpmaker and restore the shaving ability at 40 degrees (usually takes 2 minutes!!).

I use some other methods also for various needs...these ought to give you something to think about for a while. Anyone interested can check out my other videos and see what other stuff I do, I have some other videos that show some tips, tricks, how tos, and even how to build that wedge for those interested...feel free to ask anything, I enjoy discussing this stuff (as you can probably tell).

[unit]

Do you not consider a polished edge a working edge? I find a polished edge holds and slices better than a non-polished edge.

Not directed to me, but I will tell you that there is great debate over polished vs unpolished edges.

I have demonstrated some applications where a polished edge is superior to a lesser polish...but this needs to be tempered with the individuals personal needs. i.e. in my demonstration I showed that a polished edge required a couple pounds less force at the handle to make a cut through various media...but some people would be justified to point out that a couple pounds is inconsequential (to them)....especially relative to the time required to go from what Deacon calls a "working" edge to a higher polish.

Also...there are many cuts where a coarser edge seems to work as well (some say even better) as a polished edge...

In the end...there are a lot of knives, a lot of people, a lot of steels, a lot of uses, a lot of angles, a lot of "polishes", a lot of etc. It is good to understand that many will arrive at different (but correct) answers.

[Ankerson]

I use the Edge Pro and I feel that Polished edges are better for most things and they stay sharper longer.

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[.357 mag]

Not directed to me, but I will tell you that there is great debate over polished vs unpolished edges.

I have demonstrated some applications where a polished edge is superior to a lesser polish...but this needs to be tempered with the individuals personal needs. i.e. in my demonstration I showed that a polished edge required a couple pounds less force at the handle to make a cut through various media...but some people would be justified to point out that a couple pounds is inconsequential (to them)....especially relative to the time required to go from what Deacon calls a "working" edge to a higher polish.

Also...there are many cuts where a coarser edge seems to work as well (some say even better) as a polished edge...

In the end...there are a lot of knives, a lot of people, a lot of steels, a lot of uses, a lot of angles, a lot of "polishes", a lot of etc. It is good to understand that many will arrive at different (but correct) answers.

I guess my question was directed toward everyone so thanks for the reponse.

I'm new to the Sharpening world because I've never been able to sharpen anything right. Then I bought the Edgepro and I can see the different levels of sharpness going through the stones. I guess my working edge is different on each knife I have. I sharpen my kitchen knives to 600 grit, my stockman and my wifes Mini Dyad to 1000 grit, and my hunting and EDC knifes to 3000 grit.

I guess everyone is right. Different knives, different steels, different edges.

[unit]

I guess my question was directed toward everyone so thanks for the reponse.

I'm new to the Sharpening world because I've never been able to sharpen anything right. Then I bought the Edgepro and I can see the different levels of sharpness going through the stones. I guess my working edge is different on each knife I have. I sharpen my kitchen knives to 600 grit, my stockman and my wifes Mini Dyad to 1000 grit, and my hunting and EDC knifes to 3000 grit.

I guess everyone is right. Different knives, different steels, different edges.

Right on. There are a lot of different right answers...and honestly, we are all probably a little wrong too. Until you try everything, it is tough to say what is best (and "best" tends to be a moving target for me)

While polished edges find favor with a wide audience, it is pretty easy to demonstrate diminishing returns at some point. That point moves depending on a LOT of factors.

[surazal54]

I usually use a emerald grit emery board the fine side is about 450 grit and after using it around the shop on other hard things I save it for my EDC spyderco the Persitance for the office and in public and hte Tenacious for home and aroudn the shop ... work great dry or wet and cost all of a dollar .. can't beat them I ahve been in manufacturign and we even use to use them to touch up punch dies in the production presses ... just a handy sort of thing my I use to carry a CRKT mirage for years till my son turned me on to Spydeco and I really light the excellent fit and finish and ease of maintenance ... top quality and at a great price ... after reading of the review in Blade Mag I was sold ...

[bh49]

I am using sharpmaker for all my sharpening/reprofiling/repair need. Usually I put edge at 12 or 15 degrees and on the next sharpening microbevel. I have stones starting at 80 grit up to UF rods.
I like polished edge on my VG10 knives and toothy on my S30V

[Nonprophet]

Someone tell me a good place to buy wet/dry sandpaper and this "sanding tape" I am hearing about please? It's awfully slow searching every site on a search engine and then comparing what they have with whether or not I'm being robbed! Thanks guys!