Sharpening serrated blades
Looking for advice based on experience. Two rules of thought on how to sharpen serrated knives that I know of. 1. Use a serration sharpener to sharpen each groove then remove burr from back of knife. 2. Sharpen back then remove burr from inside the grooves. I tried this once and it worked better than I expected.
I tried this once. I took a pretty good knife with serrations on one side like normal then cut matching serrations on the back side so there were serrations on both sides. I always thought serrated knives were only sharpened on one side for ease of manufacturing. I still don't know why they are on one side.
How about the spyderedge. How do you sharpen that?
Slow strokes on the corners of the white rods. Might use the rod or a tapered diamond stick freehand if there's a section that needs more attention.
As for why Spyderege style serrations are only on one side, my guess would be that putting them on both sides could leave the teeth very thin and more prone to breakage. Perhaps that could be mitigated with thicker steel stock but how much thicker it would have to be I don't know. You can have a different style of serration that is on both sides but alternates from one tooth to the next like the CRK Inyoni.
Originally Posted by So-Lo
I've never thought about using the same procedure as a plain edge. I have tried sharpening each serration with a round, cone shaped serrated sharpener. The edge looked like a narled aligators teeth. It was sharp but ugly.
After about 6 months my SE got dull enough just stropping it with a leather shoe string would,nt touch it up.I got it pointy but not sharp enough to cut cardboard.I have to saw with it so just carrying FFG Endura or Tenacious.I wish I could keep my SE scary sharp.Factory edge on PE or SE I would go with SE.Time to sharpen a real dull knife and I want a full flat grind or saber grind.
With the sharpmaker it is no more difficult(or easy) than a plain edge.
So many knives, so few pockets...
Light Modding and Wharnifying when time permits
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The "Spirit" of the design does not come through unless used. -Sal
Use the corners of the white stones, do it slowly and gently. Once you form a burr on the other side. Start doing four passes on the serrations side and one pass on the flat side.
The trick being to remove the burr from the flat side but without forming any kind of secondary edge bevel. Otherwise you will lose a bit of the sharpness that the serrations give you.
Then what I will do is use the white flat side of the stones to re point the fine Spyder tips and then remove the burr as above but on the flat sides of the spyderstones.
That way you will have a scary sharp serrated edge back again and the points will be needle sharp.
My real name is Wayne