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Thread: Show your mods!

  1. #1921
    Spyderco Forum Registered User
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    Wise people of knifemodification. I have been thinking of making the handle of a Pingo longer somehow. does anybody have experience in that direction, and know how to go about it. I like the design of the blade but would like to have a longer handle when I buy the knife.

  2. #1922
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Donut's Avatar
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    The simplest lengthening I've seen is adding a small lanyard with a knot at the end.

    A lot of people do this with Ladybugs. Check out this web page: http://www.good-kit.com/public-knife/

    The Pingo doesn't have a real lanyard hole, but you can attach it to the clip.
    -Brian
    A distinguished lurker. Waiting on a Squeak, Pingo, and Cliptools with a Split Spring!
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  3. #1923
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Jazz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ned View Post
    This is my first attempt at a knife modification. I just acid etched the pattern and added a small lanyard made from one of my Infantry cords...

    Attachment 23496

    Attachment 23497

    Pretty amateurish I'll admit but it was a fun project.
    It's really cool, if you ask me.
    - best wishes, Jazz.

  4. #1924
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Evil D's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bullmib View Post
    Wise people of knifemodification. I have been thinking of making the handle of a Pingo longer somehow. does anybody have experience in that direction, and know how to go about it. I like the design of the blade but would like to have a longer handle when I buy the knife.
    You may want to make a thread about this, there are several people here who have made new handles for the Pingo, and as long as the pivot is the same and the blade has enough area to close into, you could make the rest of the handle any shape or size you wanted.

    SHARPEN IT LIKE YOU LOVE IT, USE IT LIKE YOU HATE IT
    ~David

    Official plea to Sal: Can we PLEASE get a DLC Yojimbo 2? PLEASE!!?

  5. #1925
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    Thank you Donut and Evil D, I was thinking kind of like you Evil D. But also had blade and handle ratio in mind. I just have to get the knife home and go ti work with it.

    Kind regards

    Mikael

  6. #1926
    Spyderco Forum Registered User phillipsted's Avatar
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    Making a larger handle wouldn't be much of a problem. The Pingo is ridiculously easy to modify - it has just three bolts and no liners. The only issue I see is that you might want to add one more bolt at the end of the new scale to provide stability. Personally, it would probably be best to build a new backspacer that would fill the gap from the existing backspacer to the end of the new scales. This new bolt would then anchor the new backspacer in place. You could make this new backspacer out of Moonglow or something cool...

    You would also want to make the new scales out of material that is pretty strong and rigid. Since the Pingo has no liners, you need the strength. Soft unstabilized woods wouldn't work. Harder, denser woods like rosewood, lignum vitae, cocobolo, blackwood, ironwood, etc., would be good choices.

    Just thinking out loud here...

    TedP

  7. #1927
    Spyderco Forum Registered User phillipsted's Avatar
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    OK, here is one that may not be to everyone's taste. This is a UKPK which has been rebuilt with a set of scales made out of Pink Ivory wood. I've been wanting to try this wood for a long time. The pieces I'd looked at were either vibrant pink (which I didn't want...) or were insanely expensive - or both. I wanted a sample that had some sapwood and some heartwood to give it a bit of variegation. Pink Ivory is fantastic to work with. It has a very tight, fine grain and is hard and dense.

    I decided to leave the scales thick - they started life as 0.25" slabs, about twice as thick as stock UKPK scales. After flattening and contouring, the scales were still about 0.18" thick. I like the feel of the knife in-hand, it is round and solid, with enough contour to make it more ergonomic than an Opinel.

    Pink Ivory doesn't need a whole lot of finishing because of its density. I sanded the scales out to 1200 grit then topped it with a coat of Odie's Oil (a mixture of tung oil and wax). I left this to cure overnight, wiped the excess off after 24 hours, then left the scales to harden up for another 72 hours.

    TedP










  8. #1928
    Spyderco Forum Registered User 3rdGenRigger's Avatar
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    Looks awesome!
    Ladybug (Salt/SuperBlue/White SE), Native (FRN), Dragonfly (Salt/Orange/SuperBlue/G10), Lava (Blue), Ulize, Byrdwrench, SE SuperHawk
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    -> Branden

  9. #1929
    Spyderco Forum Registered User i am travvy's Avatar
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    i agree! that looks great phillipsted!

  10. #1930
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    Dyed my southard cause everything is cooler in camo.


  11. #1931
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Officer Gigglez's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Therealtwitch View Post
    Dyed my southard cause everything is cooler in camo.

    What southard? I only see a blade floating and your hand...
    Spyderco Knives (in order of obtainment):
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    -Tasman Salt, PE
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    -Karahawk collector's club #015, Custom Scales, Emerson Wave, PE
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  12. #1932
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    Oh you laugh but it took me 5 mins to find the over travel stop I set down on that counter!

  13. #1933
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    Phillipsted that handle looks really nice, well done.

  14. #1934
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  15. #1935
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Donut's Avatar
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    That's a pretty cool mod.

    Ted, you do awesome work! Still waiting to see you redo a FRN/Split Spring one.
    -Brian
    A distinguished lurker. Waiting on a Squeak, Pingo, and Cliptools with a Split Spring!
    Chat with us. Sharpthings - A Blog Site

  16. #1936
    Spyderco Forum Registered User MadRookie's Avatar
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    +1


  17. #1937
    Spyderco Forum Registered User phillipsted's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Donut View Post
    That's a pretty cool mod.

    Ted, you do awesome work! Still waiting to see you redo a FRN/Split Spring one.
    Thanks, Brian! I've got two new ones on the bench right now to work over - a split spring FRN UKPK and a Pingo.

    I just did a Squeak (which was very easy -no liners, no custom scalework needed) and the Pingo is contructed exactly the same way. The only thing you need to add is a pair of phosphor bronze washers to replace the little shelf around the pivot on the inside of the FRN scales.

    The UKPK is a little different. It has some mouldings on the inside of the FRN scale (in addition to the pivot shelf, which I'll replace with phosphor bronze) that will need to be fabricated work otherwise engineered around. The primary one is around the inside of the clip screw. This area serves to stabilize the back end of the scales, but it also functions as an overtravel stop for the blade when it is closed. I'm looking at replacing it with either 1.) a decorative piece of wood or micarta, or 2.) a very small steel spacer. The wood/micarta spacer would probably look better and be more stable, and I'm tinkering around with some options now.

    I'll post some new ones later this month!

    TedP

  18. #1938
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Evil D's Avatar
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    Ted those are probably the nicest wood scales I've seen you post pics of...I especially like that there aren't any liners, just wood/blade/backspring.

    SHARPEN IT LIKE YOU LOVE IT, USE IT LIKE YOU HATE IT
    ~David

    Official plea to Sal: Can we PLEASE get a DLC Yojimbo 2? PLEASE!!?

  19. #1939
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    Your scales work keeps me stunned Ted. Always a pleasure to see and a motivation to finally try some Mule scales myself to learn how much skill has to be involved when doing linerless folding knife handles. Everytime I see them I am puzzled how you manage to get the wood grain aligned so the UKPK´s strong backspring doesn´t split it.
    FRN ones are interesting indeed, I wonder how to re-build the FRN molded spring rest. I can only think of a bolt and a spacer

  20. #1940
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Jazz's Avatar
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    Can't wait for your Pingo and split spring UKPK, Ted. But take your time.
    - best wishes, Jazz.

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