Yellow is much better for visibility underwater. Neon yellow would be even better. Future model maybe?
But I agree, orange is hard to miss anywhere above sea level. I got it on Amazon. I think all of them now have this hourglass clip.
I stone washed me Sage 2 today
I used light rock and a lot of polish and oil in the slurry so I got a smooth lightly washed finish.
That will not show up in my picI tried
I had time so here's a pic of a Sage 2 apart
And this is a after pic of the blade
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My favorite Spyderco is the one that I used the most Today
Black Native fs,Delica 4 fs,ZDP 189 Endura fs,Sage 2 p,ZDP 189 Delica,Pegasus ss fs,Endura 3 ss fs,Endura 4 ffg, ss Cricket fs, Vagabond, 701 MF.
I forgot to add it took the black right off the bug but left the printed words intact.
I like the looks of the gostly lazer cut bug.
It fit's the look I want from this knife perfect and looks amazing in the light.
I'll try take a cool pic if I can.
I do everything on my phone.
Please forgive my spelling and pic's. I try Lol![]()
Last edited by JAfromMN; 07-02-2012 at 07:21 PM.
Maybe I need new contacts, but that doesn't look very stone washed!
Thanks for sharing. I like the disassembled picture.
Your contact's are good Donut
I let it tumble for a hour but I used smaller rock and more oil and metal polish mix than normal
I like the effect but I can't take a pick of it'
It's got a light stone gloss finish it's different.
It came out very even.
I like it![]()
My favorite Spyderco is the one that I used the most Today
Black Native fs,Delica 4 fs,ZDP 189 Endura fs,Sage 2 p,ZDP 189 Delica,Pegasus ss fs,Endura 3 ss fs,Endura 4 ffg, ss Cricket fs, Vagabond, 701 MF.
Shared these in the Wood Scale Mods thread too, but thought I solicit thoughts from here also.
Decided to "striderize" my Persistence with more of a gunstock shaped butt end a straighter top line using some yellowheart wood.
Not quite as shiny and poliched as it will be once I am finished, but its rounding into form.
http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/...ictures001.jpg
http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/...ictures004.jpg
http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/...ictures003.jpg
http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/...ictures002.jpg
http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/...ictures005.jpg
i really like this mod. looks awesome, what didi you use?
is the wood stabilized or treated in any way?
nice job! love wooden handles!
greetings
Opinel Nr.8 Inox, Svord Peasant,Butch Vallotton Subhilt, Brad Southard Flipper, Manix2 CTS-XHP, CPM-M4-Ti Military CF Scales, EarthBrown Military CTS-XHP, EarthBrown FrankenMili2 CTS-XHP, Pm2 CTS-20CP, Delica ZDP-189, Endura blue (beater), Laguiole Mandailles, Laguiole BrutdeForge Lame bélier doublePlatines, Benchmade LUM MINI ONSLAUGHT AXIS 746-1201 (Nr. 166 of 500)
Thanks.
Its a wood called Texas yellowheart. I think it is also sometimes called "Bois D'Arc" Great stuff to work with. It was not stabilized, but I am planning to put a few coats of gunstock refinishing oil on it which will accomplish pretty much the same thing. Once thats done, I'll put it on the buffing wheel with some polishing compound to give it a real shine. Maybe I'll post another pic or two upon completion.
Dyed my blue Endura a much darker blue.
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My favorite Spyderco is the one that I used the most Today
Black Native fs,Delica 4 fs,ZDP 189 Endura fs,Sage 2 p,ZDP 189 Delica,Pegasus ss fs,Endura 3 ss fs,Endura 4 ffg, ss Cricket fs, Vagabond, 701 MF.
I have been wanting to try Moly Resin to protect the steel on my Cruware mule (prevent long term corrosion), but I was a little worried about the 300F curing time for Moly Resin (same for Cerakote) as 300F is awfully close to the temperature for tempering many steels. However, I found that Cruware's tempering temp is around 1000F, so 300F was not even close to affect its hardness, so I gave it a try.
After sandblasting the finish, I applied and cured the semi-gloss black Moly Resin (M390 mule shown for comparison):
Lets see how it holds up
Will
Always carry a knife, and always carry a backup knife.
Machining and electronics: www.atdms.com
Deep carry Ti clip for GB
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Another Ti clip. Stonewashed and anodized.
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Polar,
I really like those clips. Very nice work.
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- - - -
"Knowledge without milage equals bull***t." -- Henry Rollins
Well I decided to try and stone wash my green tenacious sprint and this is the results. I did a practice run on a ukpk that came out more subdued that I might re-do.
The set up was far from sophisticated just a plastic bottle some rocks from a stream down the road and wd40. I had a particularly large rock that I think should have been left out as it made deeper indentations and a few gouges. Overall through I am happy with the out come and I think it works well with the green sprint color of this knife.
Next up I would like to try and wharncliffe a knife (probably the ukpk) any tips or knowledge would be appreciated as I have no clue how to proceed. I have a dremel tool that I was thinking could work.
Looks great!
I "wharnied" a Caly a while back. Just took a ruler and drew with a marker a straight line from the tip to the back of the blade. Then I ground it down (dip in water so it stays cool) with my Dremel and diamond bits and a diamond disk to make sure it was straight. Next, just sharpen the new edge. I'm sure the pic is at the start of this thread. It's a really easy mod. Good luck, and show us when you're done.
- best wishes, Jazz.
Just simple mod on my PPT handle . . . .
From the black handle . . .
Into the GITD handle . ., include the lanyard . .
Sorry for the poor quality picture![]()
thats SICK!
-Travis
Come chat with us on IRC
Visit the knife picture site http://sharpthings.net/
Super-steel Nut
To the sharpening junkies: SHOW THOSE EDGES!
-Kyle
On the Fence: Tuff, Techno, LionSpy
Preordered: CTS-204P Para 2
Perpetually backordered: Fluted Ti Millie
Latest arrivals: Kris, CTS-XHP Mule, C83 G-10 Persian
Yet another Ti clip. 6Al4V, 1.6mm thick.
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