Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: Sharpmaker: 40 or 30 degrees?

  1. #1
    Spyderco Forum Registered User catamount's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Vermont
    Posts
    2,079

    Sharpmaker: 40 or 30 degrees?

    The question is regulary asked here; "Should I use the 40 degree or 30 degree setting to sharpen s on my Sharpmaker?" The short answer: use the 40.

    The primary bevels on s are ground to around 30 degrees at the factory (They will sometimes vary, because it is done by hand).

    "Sharpening" generally means adding (or restoring) secondary microbevels, at a greater angle than the primary bevels. Hence the 40 degree setting for sharpening.

    The 30 degree setting is there for reprofiling (resetting the angles of the primary bevels). If you want to sharpen (add microbevels) using the 30 degree setting, the primary bevels must be well below 30 degrees.
    Last edited by catamount; 09-16-2008 at 09:03 AM.
    Tom
    __________________________________

    http://spydercovt.com

    Quote Originally Posted by Sequimite View Post
    I use knives. I collect experiences.

    I'm an admirer of Spyderco's designs. Using them is like immersing yourself in music or studying a painting in a museum. I buy some "fine" art but my preference is for usable art.
    Junior avatar courtesy of dialex

  2. #2
    Spyderco Forum Registered User
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    213

    ???

    I've been using the 30 degree only for 2 years on my spyderco sharpmaker. i mostly used it on my flat grind knives (millie and para). and so far had no problems with the edge. My s30v neither chips, nor takes a bad edge.
    so what's the deal here????

  3. #3
    Spyderco Forum Registered User vampyrewolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Fort McMurray, Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    7,478
    I'll just dig up my old post because I don't feel like typing again... 2nd post...

    http://spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30774

    I still prefer AO benchstones, but the 204's angles work for touchups. Just did my cricket last night in about a dozen strokes. Need 15-20min to touchup with the 800grit AO and doublestuff. The 40deg on the 204 only gets used to roughen up my cutting edge, never to sharpen.
    Coffee before Conciousness
    Why do people worry more if you argue with your voices than if you just talk with them? What about if you lose those arguements?
    Slowly going crazy at work... they found a way to make the voices work too.

  4. #4
    Spyderco Forum Registered User THG's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    923
    Quote Originally Posted by catamount View Post
    The primary bevels on s are ground to around 30 degrees at the factory (They will sometimes vary, because it is done by hand).
    Not in my experience. Both s I've purchased came with +40˚ angles. I've had my Endura for 2 weeks now, and I still haven't been able to use it because I'm reprofiling it to 30˚. I'm a little over half way done...

  5. #5
    Spyderco Forum Registered User catamount's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Vermont
    Posts
    2,079
    Quote Originally Posted by RazorSharp86 View Post
    I've been using the 30 degree only for 2 years on my spyderco sharpmaker. i mostly used it on my flat grind knives (millie and para). and so far had no problems with the edge. My s30v neither chips, nor takes a bad edge.
    so what's the deal here????
    Most likely your examples came from the factory with primary bevels less than 30 degrees; the 30 degree setting will work in this case.

    My purpose in this thread was to try to clear up something that confused me when I was a newbie. You see somewhere that the primary bevels on s are 30 degrees, and think "Oh, then I should sharpen them at the 30 degree setting." While this does work in some cases, it leads to frustration in many others.

    What took longer to figure out is that sharpening is MUCH quicker and easier when you are cutting microbevels at GREATER angles than the primary bevels.
    Tom
    __________________________________

    http://spydercovt.com

    Quote Originally Posted by Sequimite View Post
    I use knives. I collect experiences.

    I'm an admirer of Spyderco's designs. Using them is like immersing yourself in music or studying a painting in a museum. I buy some "fine" art but my preference is for usable art.
    Junior avatar courtesy of dialex

  6. #6
    Spyderco Forum Registered User catamount's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Vermont
    Posts
    2,079
    Quote Originally Posted by THG View Post
    Not in my experience. Both s I've purchased came with +40˚ angles. I've had my Endura for 2 weeks now, and I still haven't been able to use it because I'm reprofiling it to 30˚. I'm a little over half way done...
    Sounds like you got some of the variations.

    If the reprofiling gets too frustrating, STR has an EdgePro, and will do it for you at a very reasonable cost.
    Last edited by catamount; 09-16-2008 at 04:53 PM.
    Tom
    __________________________________

    http://spydercovt.com

    Quote Originally Posted by Sequimite View Post
    I use knives. I collect experiences.

    I'm an admirer of Spyderco's designs. Using them is like immersing yourself in music or studying a painting in a museum. I buy some "fine" art but my preference is for usable art.
    Junior avatar courtesy of dialex

  7. #7
    Spyderco Forum Registered User ghostrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Grand Rapids, Michigan
    Posts
    4,113
    I've used primary/secondary bevels on my knives before, and it does work well. Now, I usually just use 30*. There's a few I'll take down to below that and then put a 30* edge on it, but only a few.
    First they came for the Trade Unionists, and I did not stand up, because I was not a Trade Unionist.

    Attributed to Pastor Martin Niemöller
    Thread for tying tips:
    http://spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18317
    Avatar provided by DAYWALKER

    Hawkbills- Sink in the tip, and let it rip!!! - Axlis

  8. #8
    Spyderco Forum Registered User
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    239
    Thanks Tom, up to now it has been exactly like you told with my spydies. I´m very happy with the 40 degree microbevel. My spydies cut extremely well with it while being a little more robust. All of their blades have a well thought out geometry and a very smooth surface. That´s a large part of why I like to cut with spydies the most. The 204 is indeed a wonderful tool, at least for touchups.

    JB
    We need locking folders, at least a D4, with very small holes (no one-hand function, only trademark) for legal carry in Germany!

    If I could only keep one of all my knives, it probably would be a D4.

    Ever tried, ever failed, no matter.
    Try again, fail again, fail better.
    (Samuel Beckett)

  9. #9
    Spyderco Forum Registered User
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    5
    I will have to try the microbevel kind of edge. I have been sharpening my kitchen knives to a straight 30 degree angle. I wanted to learn how to sharpen knives so I bought them used at thrift stores and used bench stones and finished them with a sharpmaker. Henckels carbon steel, Gerber stainless, Forschner stainless handled the 30 degree angle great and cut like lazers. Older Chicago stainless pits badly at 30degrees. The Japanese and Chinese blades dont pit, but they dont stay sharp for very long either. This hunting season (if Im lucky) I'll be trying out several knives including a Spyderco mule in 52100 and native in S30V as well as a pile of boning, butcher type knives. How the different steels hold up has been very interesting to me.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •