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Thread: Screws

  1. #1
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    Screws

    I'd like to see Spyderco change its screws from small, double sided T6 screws (like those on Military) to female-pin and male-screw style (e.g. like what CRK uses ).
    What do you say, Sal?

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    Bump back to top.

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    what's better/worse about each system vs. the other?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Qrt View Post
    what's better/worse about each system vs. the other?
    Main reason for me is that you would need only one size screwdriver (not that important but simpler, and more often than not simple is better, isn't it Mr. Chapman? ) and (because the size of a pivot pin is usually somewhere around the size of Torx8 or 10 (T10 is roughly the size of 3/32" inbus)) you could finally dismantle your knife without the worry about screw heads stripping (extremly easy to do with sizes like T6). Besides that you would not have threads in the liners, so in case you would strip these threads you could replace just the female (pin) part instead of whole liner.

    And finally bigger screw also means stronger construction.

    IMHO only advantage of using small screws from both sides is the fact they are small -> not so pronounced in the visual impression of the knife (in other words some people think big screws don't look good).

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    well having stripped one of my military screws myself I fully agree with you

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    Back to top after another week...

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    Spyderco Forum Registered User RLR's Avatar
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    Totally agree with you on that one.

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    Spyderco Forum Registered User D-Roc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by huugh View Post
    Main reason for me is that you would need only one size screwdriver (not that important but simpler, and more often than not simple is better, isn't it Mr. Chapman? ) and (because the size of a pivot pin is usually somewhere around the size of Torx8 or 10 (T10 is roughly the size of 3/32" inbus)) you could finally dismantle your knife without the worry about screw heads stripping (extremly easy to do with sizes like T6). Besides that you would not have threads in the liners, so in case you would strip these threads you could replace just the female (pin) part instead of whole liner.

    And finally bigger screw also means stronger construction.

    IMHO only advantage of using small screws from both sides is the fact they are small -> not so pronounced in the visual impression of the knife (in other words some people think big screws don't look good).

    Great idea, but I believe under warranty you're not supposed to dismantle your knife...so I would imagine the manufacturing process reflects this.
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    Quote Originally Posted by D-Roc View Post
    Great idea, but I believe under warranty you're not supposed to dismantle your knife...so I would imagine the manufacturing process reflects this.
    Good point. Then, however, why aren't all :spyderco: knives constructed like Caly3, i.e. with pins instead of screws holding the handle together (with adjustable pivot pin)?

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    Spyderco Forum Registered User The Deacon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by huugh View Post
    Good point. Then, however, why aren't all :spyderco: knives constructed like Caly3, i.e. with pins instead of screws holding the handle together (with adjustable pivot pin)?
    I'd take that over bigger screws. Flush pins, as on the micarta Calypso Jr. would be even better.
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    Spyderco Forum Registered User zenheretic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by huugh View Post
    Good point. Then, however, why aren't all :spyderco: knives constructed like Caly3, i.e. with pins instead of screws holding the handle together (with adjustable pivot pin)?
    Perhaps to meet a large new market that demands the all screw construction. Hopefully once people learn the downsides of screw construction, the madness will pass.
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    I have little real expertise on this matter but I do have an excellent record of putting threaded holes at risk. There is much to reccomend Huugh's idea. In addition to stripped threads those p**** little screws are easy to cam-out the head even with Torx heads.

    Sounds like a good work around for those of use who like all screw construction. T6!!! Give me a break. Like easily replaced mating screw construction intead of damaged liners. Would mating screw constuction allow greater leeway in linerless (thinner) construction?
    Not really all that slick

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    Quote Originally Posted by The Deacon View Post
    I'd take that over bigger screws. Flush pins, as on the micarta Calypso Jr. would be even better.
    Is there a Spyderco with flush pins (i.e. like those usually found on micarta handled knives (typical example: Persian)) and adjustable pivot?

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    Another bump to gain attention

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    Spyderco Forum Registered User The Deacon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by huugh View Post
    Is there a Spyderco with flush pins (i.e. like those usually found on micarta handled knives (typical example: Persian)) and adjustable pivot?
    I think you misunderstood me Huugh. My first choice would be construction like the Persian, front bolsters and flush pins all the way. Second choice would be construction like the micarta Calypso Jr., all flush pins, no bolsters. Your suggestion of an adjustable pivot with domed pins/rivets would be pretty far down on my list, but still preferable to all screws, especially larger ones.
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    Spyderco Forum Registered User dialex's Avatar
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    I think Spyderco already did something even better than this.
    See those pins they use now to assemble the Adventura or the Delica IV?
    The barrel (female) pin is not cylindrical, but it has sort of a "D" shape instead. This will prevent the pin from rotating in the handles. Obviously, the correspondent hole in the handles has the same shape.
    The head of this barrel pin, although not flush, is flat enough to form just a small bump in the surface which doesn't affect IMHO neither the aesthetics nor the functionality of the knife.
    I think this construction is a big step forward over the press fit pins some companies still use (at their balisongs, to be more specific)
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    I agree that the "D" "bolt/pin" works well. Make them all screw construction.
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    Since I still miss Sal's answer, I ressurect this zombie thread

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    Quote Originally Posted by tap View Post
    I agree that the "D" "bolt/pin" works well. Make them all screw construction.
    I should have said that the "D" bolt works well with FRN and thin SS liners. This is because the D can be part of the FRN mold and it can be stamped fairly cleanly in thin SS liners. You can't make a "clean" D hole in G-10 or thicker metals. They have used D holes in G-10 but repeated disassembly can cause issues. I don't think that the use of these hex heads from China was a good move. Small torx heads have issues but they are still much better than small hex heads.
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  20. #20
    Spyderco Forum Registered User SimpleIsGood229's Avatar
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    I fully agree with the D-screw suggestion. I'm having a heckuva time with my Mini Manix's pivot screw loosening. I'e found that D-screws back out far less quickly than the regular kind.

    Another advantage to the Millie-style pivot screw is that two screwdrivers are not necessary to adjust pivot tension.
    Last edited by SimpleIsGood229; 09-11-2009 at 07:34 PM.
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