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Thread: Show your Mule

  1. #601
    Spyderco Forum Registered User phillipsted's Avatar
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    B75P Mule in Ironwood burl

    I finished my B75P Mule this weekend. I'd been saving a nice piece of ironwood burl from Arizona Ironwood and decided to break it out. I'd forgotten how touchy burl can be some times. I had a couple of problems with voids and tearouts - but the piece came together well. I realized after I started taking pictures that I forgot to buff the scales out with RenWax. I'll do that this afternoon.

    I've got my other B75P outfitted with some G10 user scales and will be giving it some outdoor testing next weekend - we are going to the mountains for a campout.

    TedP










  2. #602
    Spyderco Forum Registered User jabba359's Avatar
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    Beautiful work as always Ted.
    -Kyle


    On the Fence: Tuff, Techno
    Latest arrivals: Super Blue Delica, G-10 BlackHawk, S110V Mule

  3. #603
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    Hi everyone, this is my first post, mule and scales. It's not perfect but I like it and it will be a user, it feels GREAT in the hand.









    Here you can see some beginner's mistake, like cutting too close to the outline...


    Pictures taken on a sheet of coyote brown kydex that will be used to make a sheath for it. I think about drilling out the ¼ hole to attach a lanyard or grind off the tip of the scales to show the 3/16 hole. Tell me what you think.
    Last edited by Dietz; 10-13-2012 at 11:00 AM.

  4. #604
    Spyderco Forum Registered User phillipsted's Avatar
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    Dietz - First off, welcome to the Forum!

    Beautiful first Mule! Nothing really beats the natural canvas micarta look and feel. Your shaping looks great for a user blade, and I bet the micarta feels warm and solid in hand. Love it!

    TedP

  5. #605
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Rwb1500's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phillipsted View Post
    Sorry for the tease, guys. I was just so excited about this one, I couldn't wait to share the results. This is my Super Blue Mule shod in some Cocobolo purchased off the 'bay. The Cocobolo was a bit softer and than other cocobolo I've worked with in the past and had more of an open grain - it might be an alternate species. But the color and contrasts are very fetching. I'll probably end up sealing it with TruOil sometime soon.

    As I noted in the previous post, I used the washers under the screws to provide a more secure attachment. The scales are just screwed on at this point - they aren't expoxied. There are good points and bad points to that, I know. But I wanted to be able to take off the scales and check the scales for discoloration/rust periodically.

    TedP


    Hey Ted, incredible work, as usual.
    I had a couple questions about finishing with Tru-oil.

    Do you sand up through grits, buff, then simply apply the oil in a few thin coats?

    Or do you use another oil like Danish oil to finish first? What advantages do you see in the Tru-oil vs something like tung oil or Danish oil?

    I've got a coco bolo Cruwear mule that is reaching completion.

  6. #606
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Rwb1500's Avatar
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    Speaking of which;



    Complete with Hello Kitty band aid. I ran a coping saw across my knuckle.

  7. #607
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    Quote Originally Posted by phillipsted View Post
    Dietz - First off, welcome to the Forum!

    Beautiful first Mule! Nothing really beats the natural canvas micarta look and feel. Your shaping looks great for a user blade, and I bet the micarta feels warm and solid in hand. Love it!

    TedP
    Thanks. I did it all with hand tools.

    Here's the sheath I made this weekend, my first one too. Blade got scratched up from leftover kydex residue in the sheath but that's to be expected.






  8. #608
    Spyderco Forum Registered User phillipsted's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rwb1500 View Post
    Hey Ted, incredible work, as usual.
    I had a couple questions about finishing with Tru-oil.

    Do you sand up through grits, buff, then simply apply the oil in a few thin coats?

    Or do you use another oil like Danish oil to finish first? What advantages do you see in the Tru-oil vs something like tung oil or Danish oil?
    Thanks, RWB.

    Tru-Oil is actually a polymerized tung oil - not unlike Danish Oil. The nice thing about Tru-Oil is that it cures hard and waterproof, without that plasticky feeling you can get from urethane finishes. Here's how I do it:

    1. Using my finger, I wipe on a very thin coat of Tru-Oil. For the first coat, you might need to lay it on a bit thicker because some of it is soaking into the wood.

    2. Let the knife sit for 10 minutes, then wipe off the excess oil with a soft cloth.

    3. Let the finish cure for at least 4 hours, or until it isn't tacky any more.

    4. Buff the finish with 0000 steel wool. You'll take off a little of the finish, but it makes the surface smooth enough to accept the next coat.

    5. Repeat steps 1-4 as many times as you like. Many of my knife scales get up to 10 very thin coats of Tru-Oil. The trick is to keep the individual coats very very very thin.

    6. When you get to the last coat, buff the cured scales with a muslin buff to polish it up.

    7. Finish it with a top coat of Renaissance wax to give it that "new car shine." Just rub in and polish it with a soft cloth.

    TedP

  9. #609
    Spyderco Forum Registered User JB3's Avatar
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    M4

    There's some beautiful work in this thread! Compliments to the crafters of all the fine looking Mules in here!
    This was one of my first custom scale and file work projects ... M4 steel ... I gave it to my brother for Christmas.




  10. #610
    Spyderco Forum Registered User razorsharp's Avatar
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    NICE filework
    -Travis
    Come chat with us on IRC

    Visit the knife picture site http://sharpthings.net/
    Super-steel Nut

    To the sharpening junkies: SHOW THOSE EDGES!
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  11. #611
    Spyderco Forum Registered User phillipsted's Avatar
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    Another "In Between Mules" project for me this week. I found a really nice feather damascus blade from Grand Leavitt at Snake River Knives. This is some seriously beautiful stuff. I paired it with some old-growth red koa scales. You can't really see in the photo, but the koa is iridescent and has a lot of depth. I'm very happy with this one. The one thing that bugs me is the counterbore for the bolt heads. I didn't have the appropriate size counterbore bit for the 0.25" bolts, so the holes are a bit too big for the bolt heads. Oh well...

    TedP









  12. #612
    Spyderco Forum Registered User Pockets's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dietz View Post
    Thanks. I did it all with hand tools.

    Here's the sheath I made this weekend, my first one too. Blade got scratched up from leftover kydex residue in the sheath but that's to be expected.





    Nice. You might want to make sure somehow that the knots don't come undone if that's how you plan to secure the sheath to yourself.

  13. #613
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pockets View Post
    Nice. You might want to make sure somehow that the knots don't come undone if that's how you plan to secure the sheath to yourself.
    I've worn it quite a bit, walking/running in the woods and as an EDC, I purposely tried to get branches snagged on it and the knots didn't move. I got them super tight before cutting the extra paracord and melting the ends flat. I'm confident they won't come undone.

  14. #614
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    Nice damasteel philipstead i think that false edge really works .

  15. #615
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    Spyderco Mule Team 4 (ZDP-189), G10 jade green, glow in the dark.


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  16. #616
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    Here's my Mule in CTS B75P. The scales are butterscotch paper micarta, yellow fiber liners, and micarta pins, held together with two-ton epoxy.

    The micarta was a totally different color on the outside than on the inside once ground and polished, which the website mentioned. Not thrilled with the color, but I used what I had.

    There were some "halos" around the holes. The micarta was 3/8" thick, and I ground some away. The halos mostly went away and smoothed out well.

    I used the yellow fiber liners because this Mule and my M390 didn't seem to be quite flat. The scales on the M390 had a gap at the front, so I took it apart to try again sometime. I epoxied the liners and scales and clamped them on tightly once the pins were through. It's held nicely for a few weeks.

  17. #617
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    ^^ I like the idea of micarta pins.

  18. #618
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dietz View Post
    ^^ I like the idea of micarta pins.
    This is the third time I've used micarta pins or tube. The large holes are roughly 3/8", they seem to vary in size depending on the Mule. Micarta pins are easier to work than the stainless corby bolts I like to use and they bring a different look. I think I need to do more work with them.

  19. #619
    Spyderco Forum Registered User xceptnl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phillipsted View Post
    Another "In Between Mules" project for me this week. I found a really nice feather damascus blade from Grand Leavitt at Snake River Knives. This is some seriously beautiful stuff. I paired it with some old-growth red koa scales. You can't really see in the photo, but the koa is iridescent and has a lot of depth. I'm very happy with this one. The one thing that bugs me is the counterbore for the bolt heads. I didn't have the appropriate size counterbore bit for the 0.25" bolts, so the holes are a bit too big for the bolt heads. Oh well...

    TedP



    Grand really has a great eye for beautiful patterns. I have a few examples of his work. Your handles are a really classy touch.
    My 's:
    Native, Manix 2 (BD1,154CM,S30V,M4,XHP), Delica 4 (White,Red,Brown,Blue,BRG,G-10), Spyderhawks, D'fly (H1,G-10), Police3, Volpe, Military (S30V[2],XHP,D2,M390,BG42,440V,Cruwear), Superleaf, Forager, D2 Para, Kopas, Caly (JR's,3,3.5-SB), D3, Para-2 (XHP,204P), Stretch (SS,FRN's,CF), Rescue, Dyad Jr, Pingo, Southard, AIR, Jess Horn, Forum N5, Lil Matriarch, Barong, Superhawk, Chinook II
    Mules> MT05,08,09,12,15,16,17, 18

    *Landon*

  20. #620
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    Syderco Mule Team 4, ZDP-189, custom hand made scales G10 jade green, glow in the dark.


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