Show your Mule

[capid1]

M390 Mule in Red and Black G10.

[wquiles]

Great job on the pins - love how you did it

Will

[phillipsted]

Nicely done, Capid!
TedP

[phillipsted]

Just finished my Super Blue Mule in Cocobolo this evening. It's too dark to take photos - will post some shots this weekend!

TedP

[Ferris Wheels]

Just finished my Super Blue Mule in Cocobolo this evening. It's too dark to take photos - will post some shots this weekend!

TedP

Tease!!!!!

[jtoler_9]

Just finished my Super Blue Mule in Cocobolo this evening. It's too dark to take photos - will post some shots this weekend!

TedP

It's the weekend somewhere. Can't wait to see the pics.

[phillipsted]

Guys - I've found an interesting addition to my scale attachment method I wanted to pass along. As many of you know, I use threaded pivot bolts and screws to attach my scales (instead of pins). This allows me to securely attach my Mule scales without having to resort to epoxy - I can un-bolt the scales and remove them as desired. This is the same approach that Halpern uses with its scales. I have expoxied a few Mules that were going to be used in the kitchen so that they were a bit more waterproof - but the majority of my Mules are just bolted.

I normally use a counterbore or stepped drill bit to countersink the bolt head. The trick is getting the counterbore hole drilled to the right depth so that you have a nice "shelf" for the screw head to rest against - allowing you to snug up the scales tightly. Too deep and the screw heads don't contact the scales. Too shallow and the screw threads can't reach down to the pivot bolt.

A couple of weeks ago, I was cruising around Amazon's "small parts" site (now rebranded as "Amazon Supply"). It is a fantastic shop, similar to McMaster Carr - with tons and tons of small parts (as the name implies!). I found some very small washers that are 0.250" in diameter with a 0.190" hole. This is the perfect size for fitting down into the hole in the scale - giving the screws a solid metal washer to rest against, and giving me more accurate matching of the pivot bolt to the scales. Plus, it makes the knife scales much stronger.

Here is the link to these washers. I'll post some pics this weekend along with my Cocobolo Super Blue Mule.

TedP

Precision Shim Washers for Inner Bearing Races

[phillipsted]

Sorry for the tease, guys. I was just so excited about this one, I couldn't wait to share the results. This is my Super Blue Mule shod in some Cocobolo purchased off the 'bay. The Cocobolo was a bit softer and than other cocobolo I've worked with in the past and had more of an open grain - it might be an alternate species. But the color and contrasts are very fetching. I'll probably end up sealing it with TruOil sometime soon.

As I noted in the previous post, I used the washers under the screws to provide a more secure attachment. The scales are just screwed on at this point - they aren't expoxied. There are good points and bad points to that, I know. But I wanted to be able to take off the scales and check the scales for discoloration/rust periodically.

TedP

[jtoler_9]

Beautiful work as per usual Ted. I love Cocobolo. There is so much carachter. Nice photo's also. Thanks for sharing.

[Stew]

Just a simple one - M4 with maroon micarta and brass.

[phillipsted]

Nicely done, Stew! That M4 Mule is a real winner. Plus, I'm a sucker for maroon micarta...

TedP

[Ferris Wheels]

Sorry for the tease, guys. I was just so excited about this one, I couldn't wait to share the results. This is my Super Blue Mule shod in some Cocobolo purchased off the 'bay. The Cocobolo was a bit softer and than other cocobolo I've worked with in the past and had more of an open grain - it might be an alternate species. But the color and contrasts are very fetching. I'll probably end up sealing it with TruOil sometime soon.

As I noted in the previous post, I used the washers under the screws to provide a more secure attachment. The scales are just screwed on at this point - they aren't expoxied. There are good points and bad points to that, I know. But I wanted to be able to take off the scales and check the scales for discoloration/rust periodically.

TedP

Great work, those scales look gorgeous and definitely worth the wait you tease.

[nlmd]

Purpled

[Holland]

simple is classy

[phillipsted]

Hey, the activity on this thread has slowed down a bit lately.

What's everyone working on?

I'm finishing up a Swick 2 -putting PurpleHeart scales on it. The scales aren't very large, but that handle shape has a lot of curves to it. I'm spending a bit of time battling the splintery-ness of the PurpleHeart while trying to even out all the curves and slopes on the scales so that they feel natural in hand.

The PurpleHeart is an interesting material. Like I said, it is kind of splintery which creates challenges. It is relatively soft as well - and it is easy to cut away too much with the files or rough sandpaper. But the color is pretty amazing. The wood has darkened substantially since I've started working with it. My friends tell me that it will turn a deep dark purple over time, which would be beautiful. But for now, it is the color of black-cherry-Koolaid.

BTW, I found a great place to get natural wood scales - Bell Forest Products. Lots of interesting wood selections at good prices, and they offer pre-cut scale slabs.

I should be able to post pics of the Swick 2 sometime this week.

TedP

[eitenbuffalo34]

I have a question, how does everyone do this?

Where do you all get the handle scale materials?
Do you do this with power tools (like a dremmel, etc.) or do you use files and sand paper?
How do you put the finish on (wood) or texture for other materials?
What screws/pivots do you all use?
and how do you figure out where the holes in the handle are behind the handle scale so that you can put the screw there?

I am thinking about getting one and trying this all out and just was looking for some advice because the mules on this forum are beautiful, thank you.

[RoBoTech]

Hey, the activity on this thread has slowed down a bit lately.

What's everyone working on?

I'm finishing up a Swick 2 -putting PurpleHeart scales on it. The scales aren't very large, but that handle shape has a lot of curves to it. I'm spending a bit of time battling the splintery-ness of the PurpleHeart while trying to even out all the curves and slopes on the scales so that they feel natural in hand.

The PurpleHeart is an interesting material. Like I said, it is kind of splintery which creates challenges. It is relatively soft as well - and it is easy to cut away too much with the files or rough sandpaper. But the color is pretty amazing. The wood has darkened substantially since I've started working with it. My friends tell me that it will turn a deep dark purple over time, which would be beautiful. But for now, it is the color of black-cherry-Koolaid.

BTW, I found a great place to get natural wood scales - Bell Forest Products. Lots of interesting wood selections at good prices, and they offer pre-cut scale slabs.

I should be able to post pics of the Swick 2 sometime this week.

TedP

I like Purple Heart myself and have used it for fixed blades for a while.
In MY experience, it does not get more "purple" as it ages, but a dark brown. But that's me.
To make it tougher. and to hold it's color, stabilize it. Stabilizing will add some darkness to it, and it's hard to find clear "stabilizer" fluid. So think about that.
Here is a little home brew way of doing a few sets at a time.
Make note that AFTER stabilizing, it get's really hard to work with and will clog up sanding media in a hurry. Best to do a rough shaping before stabilizing.
This is in my experience, but, others may not share that, so, decide for yourself.

[phillipsted]

RoBo - that looks like a really cool technique. I reviewed that NCK tutorial after someone (may have been you) linked to it previously. Looks really messy, but kinda fun!

I opted for a few coats of TruOil. It doesn't penetrate as deeply as your technique, but TruOil gives you a really nice durable finish that fills in the pores of the wood's surface. Thin coat. Cure. Steel wool. Thin coat. Cure. Steel wool. Repeat.

TedP

[phillipsted]

I have a question, how does everyone do this?

Where do you all get the handle scale materials?
Do you do this with power tools (like a dremmel, etc.) or do you use files and sand paper?
How do you put the finish on (wood) or texture for other materials?
What screws/pivots do you all use?
and how do you figure out where the holes in the handle are behind the handle scale so that you can put the screw there?

I am thinking about getting one and trying this all out and just was looking for some advice because the mules on this forum are beautiful, thank you.

Welcome to the Forum, eitenbuffalo34! It's a lot easier than you might think. There are several good tutorials on this Forum to get you started. I'll include links for several of the good ones below. But to be honest, most of my scales are done with all hand tools. I just like the physical aspect of shaping the scales with saws, files, and sandpaper. There are also lots of good material suppliers you can find with a quick Google: Jantz, Texas Knife Makers, Masecraft, USA Knife Makers, Hawkins, Sheffield...

Take a look at these tutorials, check out these web sites, and drop back by this thread to ask some more questions!

TedP

http://spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40768
http://spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40984
http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35469
http://spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40418

[RoBoTech]

Where do you all get the handle scale materials?

One place that is hardly ever mentioned is my favorite G-10 supplier.
Their inventory changes a bit, but most of their selection is usually in stock. If not today, wait a day or two, or call them.
VERY reasonable prices for 11X8 sheets!
I have some Royal Blue, OD, Orange (Coarse), Toxic Green, Ruby Red (in fine and coarse), Yellow (coarse), Sand, Jade, Earth/Coyote/Tan, OD Camo, Pink, and some White.
If for fixed blades, go for .250 (1/4") thickness unless you want to make a massive grip, or doing a scuplted grip, or want to do a lot of extra work cutting it down.
Lately, my projects have been folders, so I very seldom go thicker than .125 (1/8) with most in the 0.90 range.
That's what I like about AKS, you can find this stuff in varying thickness.