Show your Mule

[phillipsted]

phillipsted,
I like how your micarta turned out! What size screws did you use?

Thanks, Doug! I use the F6 Stainless Pivot Pins from Jantz (http://www.knifemaking.com/product-p/f6.htm). These use a 4-40 button head Torx bolt and a 0.1875" x 0.500" threaded spacer. The Torx bolts have a 0.210" head, so if you step-drill your holes in the scale material, the bolt heads will cinch down scales onto the blade. This is the same type of attachment that Halpern provides with its scales.

This set of micarta scales is not glued at all - the bolts, pins and friction hold the scales onto the knife. Since this is going to be primarily a display piece, this is OK - I might even go back and add a contrasting red spacer at some point. But all my user Mules get the Epoxy - especially the non-stainless ones where corrosion under the scales can be a problem...

TedP

[phillipsted]

I finished another set of scales for my Woodcraft Mules today. For this one, I had high hopes for some "artisan" micarta made by someone on eBay. This was his maroon-and-dark-brown linen micarta. This isn't truly micarta (which is actually a registered trade name) - because it uses what appears to be a commercial-grade epoxy rather than a phenolic base. Overall, I like the color scheme and workability of the material.

The problem with the material starts to manifest itself once I had the scales shaped and began to sand it down. For this life of me, I can't get it sanded smooth - the pits and divots in the material simply don't sand out. Then it dawns on me - these are voids in the epoxy substrate that were created during the backyard manufacturing process. No matter how much I sand, they aren't coming out. So I just sanded it down to 1200 grit and buffed it with green compound on a felt wheel. You can see the result.

Fortunately, when I saw what was going on, I didn't glue the scales to the blade, so I can put another set on later.

Anyone have thoughts about anything I might be able to treat the scales with to fill some of the voids?

TedP

[jabba359]

Anyone have thoughts about anything I might be able to treat the scales with to fill some of the voids?

TedP

I see people use superglue to fill in small holes in wood. They take some of the wood dust from sanding, mix with superglue, and fill the holes. Once dry, it can be sanded smooth. I imagine it would work just as well for micarta, but I haven't worked with micarta before. Perhaps someone with more experience with this material can substantiate or invalidate my suggestion.

[SQSAR]

You are correct, , ,the same techniques works well with Micarta. What I've done before is just put a drop on the gap/hole/imperfection/void that needs to be filled, than then sand right over it. In just a couple of seconds you are good to go.

[phillipsted]

Good suggestions, folks. I've used the Superglue trick before, but to fill larger divots. This set of scales will require me to coat virtually the entire handle with a thin film of glue, then sand it down. Not sure how that would turn out.

I'm also toying with the idea of using a gun stock finish called TruOil. It is a catalyzed linseed oil product that finishes to a hard durable gloss which can be sanded.

Sorry to get off topic from the "Show Your Mule" thread. I'll post more pictures of the doctored scales when I'm done...

TedP

[TheNeedyCat]

i dont have one i want one but everyones so far look great

[Freediver]

Is there anyone that sells CF mule scales? I was just checking out the Halpern site and was bummed to see they don't.

[Donut]

Maybe email them and ask if they do.

[Freediver]

Alright, just did. I also just ordered a M390 mule a few minutes ago.

[SQSAR]

Good suggestions, folks. I've used the Superglue trick before, but to fill larger divots. This set of scales will require me to coat virtually the entire handle with a thin film of glue, then sand it down. Not sure how that would turn out.

I'm also toying with the idea of using a gun stock finish called TruOil. It is a catalyzed linseed oil product that finishes to a hard durable gloss which can be sanded.

Sorry to get off topic from the "Show Your Mule" thread. I'll post more pictures of the doctored scales when I'm done...

TedP

Good idea on the TruOil, it will work nicely. When using CA glue (superglue) to cover larger areas like you described, just do patches at a time by spreading the CA around with a Q-tip (you will have to work fast) and you should have no troubles.

[Mr-No]

my Name is Norbert from Germany and this is my first Mule ,
I hope it like to you

[bartvdb]

mr no ; nice blade hell of a first post! welcome and greeetzzz .

[Senate]

that's pretty awesome... what wood did you use?

[Mr-No]

sorry , i have forget , the Wood is Stabilized Burl

[DCDesigns]

that's pretty awesome... what wood did you use?

Looks like spalted maple burl.

[equest]

Welcome to the forums Norbert. I really love what you did to your Mule's hand guard. The wood you used looks spectacular, almost alive.

[wquiles]

Given the outstanding quality and attention to detail that many of you give your mules when putting scales into them, I have to admit I am a little embarased about showing these pictures as my "shorty" mule is not pretty, but boy does it feel great in the hand.

Here is what one of my MT11 (M390) mule looked like a while back. I had gotten these undersized scales in black Micarta last year, and I got them installed and epoxied about 2-3 weeks ago:



But it never felt "right" - it felt too handle heavy and I could not get my hand as far upfront as I wished, so I decided, in the spirit of having the mule as a test vehicle, to trim it and change the ergonomics to suit my hand:



In these next few photos I am not done with the minor profiling/sanding, but you can see the size of my shorty mule in my left hand (I am a lefty, so I am taking pictures with my right hand):

Here is my other "normal" MT11 Mule with Halpern Titanium Typ4 4 scales:






And here is my shorty:





And here a shot of both normal and shorty:










As I mentioned earlier, the shorty feels great in the hand, still a little bit handle heavy, but much better balanced. I now have to send it to Scott Gere for a new custom sheath.

Will

[skatenut]

Welcome to the forum, Norbert, and enjoy your stay here. Congratulations on your mule, the wood looks phantastic!

[skatenut]

Welcome to the forum, Norbert, and enjoy your stay here. Congratulations on your mule, the wood looks phantastic!

[EDCTAC]

My woodcraft mule I just finished in cocobolo