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Thread: Blade profiles: Serrated vs. Plain edge (something to ponder)

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    Blade profiles: Serrated vs. Plain edge (something to ponder)

    I bought both a PE and an SE version of the Caly3, and IMHO, the Plain-edge version is superior.

    Why? Well, I feel that the leaf-shaped blade with the full-flat grind simply lends itself more to sweeping slicing cuts, which I feel the serrations hinder. I don't think that the serrated version is a bad knife by any means, I just prefer a plain edge in a leaf-shaped blade.

    That got me to thinking, what other blade profiles lend themselves to PE/SE? For one thing, I realized that serrations are basically mini-hawkbills; trapping the target so that a pull-cut can be done (Any thoughts, JD or Starling?).

    I realize that there are some people (Spydutch...) who prefer Serrations no matter what the knife, and other people who love a knife in one edge version, but don't love it in another version (like me with my dislike for the SE version of the Caly3).

    So, what I bring forward is this: Which knives do you feel lend themselves to PE or SE (or CE...), and why?

    Discuss.
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    Ah, this is something I've been pondering for some time as well. I also love PE for the flat leaf grinds, especially if they have a deep belly like the salsa or lava.

    I think the best uses for SE are for when the blade geometry makes for a blade that is hard to sharpen or just dosen't take an edge very well, like reverse S or hawkbill blades. A PE hawkbill just doesn't seem to take the same edge that a curved or even wharnie blade can take. I do also like SE on a sweeping curve too, the SE blade on the dyad is very efficient on tough materials. I do have a PE crossbill and etched cricket, and while they both work great, I would much rather have them in SE.

    As for knives that I have in SE that I love: Dodo, Dyad, Nav II

    Knives I love in PE: Salsa, Lava, Dyad, Mini Manix, Scorpius, Mouse (Blade-tek version)

    Knives that are equal in either: Native, Dyad
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    I still think that SE is better. I own more SE knives than PE.

    I don't really ponder it at all.
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    I have and carry both PE and SE.
    I carry the SE on my turnout coat in case
    I am trapped by rope,wires,tv cable etc.
    I carry a PE to do slicing and other every day chores.
    The SE is for life or death situations so I save it for emergency
    use only.Endura SE ZDP-189

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    MANIXWORLD is offline Spyderco Forum Registered User
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    Spyderco,pretty much cleares things up for me,when i have to choose between plain or serrated in a specific model.
    i would say that the Salt models excels in serrated version and serrated would be my first choice with these.
    As for the Caly3,plainedge would be my first choice.
    As for the D4's,i could go plain or serrated as a first choice.
    Combo edges,i would look for in the E4, if i was to choose a combo edge as a first choice.
    Hawkbills,serrated first,for me.
    I must add that when it comes to choosing a serrated blade,no other brand can beat the Spyderedge.

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    Depends a lot on the type of cutting you do, and the materials you are cutting and the surface you are cutting upon. Serations excel for some, are a poor choice for others, and for others yet make little or no difference.

    You cannot, for example, slice cheese cleanly with a serrated blade by simply pushing the blade downward or rocking it a bit, you have to pull or push, otherwise the slicing action is incomplete. On the other hand, for cutting food on a china plate, a serrated blade will remain functionally sharp far, far, longer than a plain edged one. So I think there are factors beyond blade profile that can influence the desirability of carrying one or the other.

    But yes, for at least some of the tasks where SE excels, a blade shape that has a lot of belly is probably the worst choice, both functionally and esthetically. I think, for example the Schempp Persian would be a terrible candidate for serrations.

    One thing for certain, if you are carrying a serrated blade for self defense, it should be reserved strictly for that purpose, since a dull SE blade will get snagged in clothing far more easily than a dull PE would.
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    I am mostly a PE guy, but I do like my Delica 1 in SE, and I am quite impressed by my Rescue 79mm. It's like a little chainsaw, and makes much smoother cuts than I thought possible with an SE knife.

    On the other hand I have an SE Endura 4 that I am thinking of trading/selling as it doesn't do much for me.
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    I think hawkbills beg to be fully serrated. Of my 7 Spydies, only my Tasman Salt is SE.

    I think the CE Manixes are a bit of a waste. Those, like the Caly 3 and Persians, beg to be PE.

    Just my 2.739 cents (indexed for inflation and taxes).
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    Quote Originally Posted by SimpleIsGood229 View Post
    I think the CE Manixes are a bit of a waste. Those, like the Caly 3 and Persians, beg to be PE.
    you talkin' 'bout looks or performance? a ce blade can be very versatile in actual use.
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    You already said it yourself Blackhair

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    MANIXWORLD is offline Spyderco Forum Registered User
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    Just 2cents more,if you're truely fanatical about Spyderco,you will probably go plain and serrated in all the models,but i guess more likely for collective purposes.
    Myself,i like to collect and use all knives.
    But i think you can use most Spydies for all applications,whether plain or serrated.
    You can never please everybody,plain or serrated,bladesteels,handlematerials,handlecolors etc... u-know- wot imsayin?

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    I like the Combo Edge for overall utility. Plain Edge is easier to sharpen on a stone. But the serrations stay sharp for much, much longer than a plain edge will.

    For cutting stubborn materials like seatbelts in an emergency, the serrations have no par; they're simply the best there is, biting into such materials.

    A nice sharpening technique I've learned for sharpening serrations: take a leather shoe lace. Place one end underneath your shoe (wrape it around a few times if length permits) and place your shoe on the ground to hold the lace in place. Take the other end of the lace, hold it firmly, and pull it taut.

    Next, place the lace into each serration, starting down near your shoe, and pull it up, keeping the lace firmly against the blade. It will strop the hell out of those serrations very quickly. Several swipes on each serration will polish them up if they're not too dull already.

    If you do this after the serrations see use, you'll barely ever have to take a sharpening device to said serrations, and they'll stay perfect for a long time.
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    Thanks for the tip, Jim! Any need for CrO2 on the lace?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Cook View Post
    you talkin' 'bout looks or performance? a ce blade can be very versatile in actual use.
    I'm talking performance, in the same vein as the Caly 3. Also, the Mini Manix is too short to be CE in my opinion.
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    This thread seems to have diverted from my intended course.

    Several people seem to think I'm asking whether folks like SE or PE better, when in fact, I'm asking which blade types they think work better in what configuration.

    For instance, I think that Leaf-shaped blades work better in PE. Hawkbill better in SE. Wharncliffe I think works well in SE or PE (depending on what you're doing with it). I haven't decided yet on Reverse-S.

    Which works better overall, SE or PE, has already been discussed to death, IMHO. I'm just curious what people think about SE and PE on certain blade shapes.
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