Dmt D8xx Sharpener

[Harry White]

Question for the sharpeners out there: Is it worth the $ to purchase a DMT D8XX (double-coarse) sharpener? They run between $65-$80.

My logic is that when I sharpen freehand on an Arkansas stone or a fine diamond stone, I find it difficult to match the existing edge angles. But I think I do maintain a consistent angle. So if I used a very aggressive sharpener like the DMT D8XX to "set" my edge, then carry over to a finer stone, I'll be maintaining an angle that is comfortable for me.

Does this make any sense? Any pros or cons out there about the extra coarse DMT sharpener?

Many thanks for all your thoughts.

HW

[yablanowitz]

Have you ever used one? If not, you may be in for a shock the first time you set a blade to one. A brand new DMT X coarse sounds a lot like 60 grit sandpaper. You have to keep your pressure VERY light or you loose grit very fast (I have a couple of Diafolds I have ruined by getting in too big a hurry while using them for files).

I carry DMT Diafolds around with me to repair damages from contact with things that knives should avoid (concrete, porcelin, ceramic tile). The X-coarse is great for removing nicks and chips in a hurry. It makes reprofiling a breeze. But it will expend bladesteel at an alarming rate.

You have been warned

[Harry White]

Thanks Yab -- good advice. I guess I'm just frustrated at the whole sharpening thing, and I was looking for a way to get a rough edge on a dull blade quickly, as the sharpmaker is not aggressive enough once the blade has already dulled.

Am I just going to make things worse by getting such a coarse stone?

[ront]

Hi Harry, this is what I have been using to get a very bad edge close to something I can start working with the Sharpmaker on. So far, I have been very happy with this product!! I also have the diamond rods for my Sharpmaker.

http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/st....html?s=DMTD6C

Ron

[Harry White]

Interesting, ront. That appears to be the next step up from "double coarse" to "coarse" -- and significantly cheaper.

How does the 6" size work for you? I notice they also have an 8" and 11.5".

Has anyone compared the DMT coarse vs extra-coarse?

[ront]

For the type of sharpening I do, this size works very well for me. I like it a lot.
The coarse would not be as abrasive as the double coarse. Is that what you are saying? I have seen one of the XX Coarse and it is not one I would often use, but should remove a lot of material in a hurry.

Ron

[yablanowitz]

Yup. I carry around a DMT Diafold in X-coarse/coarse (black/blue on their color codes). Although they call the blue grade coarse, I always considered it a medium grit. It is actually coarse enough for rapid repair/reprofile work, with a much smaller appetite for steel

If you really want something to put a bevel on in a hurry, go ahead with the black extra coarse. Used properly, it should take about 15 minutes to put a 20 degree inclusive primary bevel on a butter knife. Kind of like a bench grinder without the overheating problems

[jaislandboy]

Harry, I'd save money and use something like this instead:
http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/st....html?s=DMTD6C

[Harry White]

Harry, I'd save money and use something like this instead:
http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/st....html?s=DMTD6C

i'm going back and forth between the D8XX, the D8C and the D6C. Too many choices!

[yablanowitz]

If you can get the 8" hone, do it. You won't regret the extra length. In fact, I'd like to get the 11 1/2" for kitchen knives. With the 6" hones, I sometimes run out of stone before I run out of edge, even with the shorter blades.

The extra coarse is not really needed unless you are impatient and dealing with Spydie class steel (or M2/D2 tool steels) which has a 50 degree per side primary bevel already set. I removed chips and completely reprofiled my BG-42 Military in half an hour on the blue (coarse) 2 x 6 DMT. Believe me, you will find the coarse far more useful overall than the extra coarse. The extra coarse leaves a surface finish similar to a fine stone on a bench grinder.

I also find that the coarse lasts longer than the extra coarse. With good, hard steel it is easier to apply enough pressure to strip the diamonds out of the mesh on the coarser hone.

[Harry White]

Thanks yab, ront & brian -- i think i'm going for the D8C. Your help and comments -- as always -- are truly appreciated!

[ront]

I think you are really going to like it Harry!!

Ron

[Harry White]

being my flip-floppy self, i changed my mind and ordered the DMT D8XX. i figured i can always go "up" to coarse or fine to refine the edge.

what would you recommend as an intermediate step from reprofiling with the D8XX and the Sharpmaker medium rods?

[ront]

Hi Harry, I just want to make sure I understand. The D8XX is more course than the regular course, is that correct?

Thanks, Ron

[Harry White]

yes.

the XX (extra-extra coarse) is 120 microns in size and 120 mesh equivalent.

the X (extra coarse) is 60 microns in size and 220 mesh equivalent.

the C (coarse) is 45 microns in size and 325 mesh equivalent.

the F (fine) is 25 microns in size and 600 mesh equivalent.

the EF (extra fine) is 9 microns in size and 1200 mesh equivalent.

the new EE (extra-extra fine) is 3 microns in size and 8000 mesh equivalent.

[ront]

Thanks Harry, that is what I thought.

Ron

[thombrogan]

You have to keep your pressure VERY light or you loose grit very fast (I have a couple of Diafolds I have ruined by getting in too big a hurry while using them for files).

Not so with the D8XX! I bear down on mine for faster cutting and it's still going strong. I'm a heavy guy and can exert a lot of force (and I do!) and my D8XX still cuts super fast after dozens of major reprofilings.

[Harry White]

Not so with the D8XX! I bear down on mine for faster cutting and it's still going strong. I'm a heavy guy and can exert a lot of force (and I do!) and my D8XX still cuts super fast after dozens of major reprofilings.

that's what i like to hear! thanks thom!