best sharpening method

[jlh2600]

Looking for recommendations on best sharpening method.

ROds? The differnt colored "diamond" bench stones? I bought my dad a $120 electric sharpener- it works pretty good, and supposedly sharpens serrated edges, but apparently you can do much better other ways.

I want to learn how to do it before I ruin anything expensive- so I just wnet with a cheap 2 stone kit and am going to try to sharpen my walmart knives with them tonight, before I decide on what type of high-end method to go with.

The instructions say 23 degree angle and to use oil (came with a little bottle)- how many drops, and how often? How do I know when to switch to the fine stone?

Any other tips greatly appreciated.

[jlh2600]

Try number one didn't work so well. Have to drag it across the edge to cut paper, doesn't just slice through under the weight of the knife. Must be doing something wrong.

[ghostrider]

Oh man!
If your doing this with expensive knives, STOP!

Spydercos are factory sharpened at 15 degrees.

Years ago it was reccomended sharpening at 45 degrees inclusive (that's 22-23 degrees per side). However now, with the higher end steels you can and should get by with a lower angle.

I wouldn't touch my knives with an electric sharpener. It's a good way to ruin the blade IMHO.This of course excludes the grinding wheels that some of the more experienced use. If you don't know what your doing with them it's best to leave them alone untill you do know.

I started with a Lansky, them moved to a Sharpmaker. I've never gotten my knives as sharp before or since then. They say the Edge Pro is a great system, and it has a great reputation, but it's expensive IMHO.

Get the Sharpmaker, then go to Harbor Frieghts website and order thier diamond hones. The Sharpmaker is for edge maintenence, but the diamond hones will be there for major reprofiling. I just got my diamond hones yesterday, and they do a pretty good job of stock removal.

Don't use the electric sharpener, and don't sharpen at 23 degrees unless they are very poor quality knives. 23 degrees is 46 degrees inclusive. Once you set a bevel that steep, it will take a while to bring it back down to 40 or 30.

Go to NKG and get the Sharpmaker, then order the diamond hones for Harbor Frieght.

[jlh2600]

Hah, no worries, I got this "Old Timer" from walmart years ago. This is why I am practicing first. Just trying to learn on it.

So the sharpmaker is a rod system- is that something where you have to eyeball the angle? It seems like it would be more complicated than a flat stone. Less than fifty bucks though.

Are the diamond hones also rods you put in your sharpmaker, or are they brick-like flat stones?

Thanks.

[JD Spydo]

OK first of all get yourself a Spyderco 204 Sharpmaker kit. Then the next thing I would recommend would be a copy of the book: "The Razor Edge Book Of Sharpening" by John Juranitch. Between that book and the DVD that comes with the 204 Sharpmaker kit they together will give you a really nice overview of the basics of sharpening.

Now if you want one of the "Clamp On" type kits to where you have a fixed angle there are 2 kits I have been sort of impressed with. The one that everyone on Bladeforums raves over is called the EDGE PRO. Do a "Google" search and you will find several places on the net you can get one. The device that I have that works on that same principle is called the "Skarb". The one feature I like about the "SKARB" is the fact that you can use your own stones with that particular kit.

But I use my 204 Sharpmaker about 85% of the time. I hope that gets you going in the right direction.

[gull wing]

I'll keep it simple.
1. Most of the time I use the sharpmaker at 30 deg.
2. When the knife gets to dull to sharpen with the Sharpmaker, that usually means it needs to be reprofiled. I use the Edge Pro for that. (it cuts to the chase quickly and does a fine job.)

[spd9075]

I started out using a Lansky system, but havn't touched it since I bought a Sharpmaker...really tough to beat. If you maintain the edge when it needs attention, then the Sharpmaker should be ok as a stand alone. It comes with an illustrated book and instuctional DVD. Yes, it is an "eyeball system" but it is really easy to use and very effective. I touch up my blades at 40..no oil...on the Sharpmaker stones. You'll have to experiment a bit to get the hang of it....as every knife is a little different.

[Native Justice]

If you want to learn to freehand learn to strop first. You'll get the motion and muscle memory for the angle and motion required to get a good edge without scratching up your blades. Any good scrap leather or old belt with chromium oxide prep will do.

If you have a sharpmaker use sandpaper clamped to your hones to reduce the edges to get the angle you want then finish with the standard hone edges and faces (Least expensive option). Use coarse grits to start to set the primary bevel (Use a 15-25 degree (overall) bevel and you should be good to go). Leave some of the edge to prevent chip out and a coarse edge if you intend to polish the edge. Finish with a less coarse grit before going to the hones. Finish with your standard SM hones at 40 degrees (overall) for your secondary micro-bevel. Good luck and good sharpening!

[d.g.g]

Get the Spyderco and follow the instructions. They know more about sharpening knives than all of us forumites combined, IMHO.