For knives i usually use 5w on the pivot. Then after it is all worked in i use compressed air to blow away the remainder. After that i might add a drop or 85w just to keep something there. i also like to use just a dab of the nano-grease on the detent ball of liner/frame locks. I also sometimes use a dab of the grease on the axis lock of BM knives. If you add a dab of grease and it it too thick for you, add a drop of 10w and let it work together. easily customizable.
For flashlights i like using 10w on the threads. Then i work the threads back and forth for a bit. Then i wipe off the excess and then add a dab of 85w to the threads and then a dab of grease to the o-ring.
I hate sounding like a shill but the stuff just works for me.
I certainly will post impressions of the grease once it arrives. I agree, while user impressions can be somewhat subjective without rigorous testing in a controlled environment, there is inherent value in real world experience. And I too trust Christian when he says what nano oil will do.
BTW - any recommendations for a good spray solvents to clean this chain before application? These garage door openers are 10 years old and they've had every conceivable lubricant applied to them at some point. Better to start "fresh" if I can.
Brake cleaner is the strongest anti oil/grease solvent I know about being able to find easily. Just spraying the chain will leave it dry when it's done dripping. Rifle "action" cleaners from the sporting goods section is next, but not as powerful. Be very careful with the brake cleaner. Wear thick rubber gloves, eye protection, and have something down to catch the oil/grease that falls and drips off. It sprays out hard to clean things like chain links very well. It can splatter back on you. The solvent will evaporate eventually but the oil grease you just washed off will stain even unsealed concrete. I used lots of newspapers in layers.Quote:
BTW - any recommendations for a good spray solvents to clean this chain before application? These garage door openers are 10 years old and they've had every conceivable lubricant applied to them at some point. Better to start "fresh" if I can
Do it in a well ventilated area, or outside if possible. It's pretty mean stuff. I went to that when I took over arsenal duties and had to clean guns that had layers and layers of gunk built up. It works on that old stuff the militaries of the world use when packing away stuff for years of storage. Cosmoline and such.
Don't use on plastics, and some other stuff. Maybe not nice varnished wood without protecting it but it should be ok. If the wood has natural oils it will strip these too though.
Sounds like cartoon toxic waste the way I describe it eh? I'm just a careful type. It works great though.
Thanks Joe. Sounds like just the ticket.
I'd like to add to what Joe said above. I've used brake cleaner to clean parts before painting, lubricating etc like described, but I've also had to degrease parts before welding. After reading this, I'll be sure to use denatured alcohol or acetone instead of brake cleaner.
Also, I'd like to poke into the whole Nano Oil/magic mystery lube thing again. I've said it before on post 62, I'd like some paperwork on it before I buy a bottle. Some more searching on Google turned up products like Nanotech Lubricants and Diamondlube, both bragging about having nano-diamonds in suspension so I'm guessing it's just carbon nanoparticles. In a patent search, I found this general patent explaining how they work: http://www.google.com/patents/WO2012...ed=0CDcQ6AEwAA
Looks like the lubricant in the patent slowly polishes the metal as it uses very hard nanoparticles in a flowable lubricant, so the metal surfaces smooth out as they're used. I assume St. Claire's product is similar to this patent as he claims on his website, with a good flowable 10w lubricant that gives the initial smoothness along with spherical nanoparticles acting as bearings that also slowly polish the surface during use.
Think I'll be ordering a bottle on Monday.