Stunning photos, thanks Chris.
Stunning photos, thanks Chris.
Those Dodo photos are great! Thanks for posting these!
Here's the next! You don't know how hard it was for me to not cut anything until I got the pictures :)
Factory edge M4 Manix 2, FFG.
Factory edge M4 Manix 2, FFG
Also pictures of the tip at 63x and requested pictures of the bug engraving at 40x, 50x and 100x
40x - tried to get it at an angle but the texture is so fine it tried to disappear
100x - looks like a different color than the first two because of the reflected light, but same blade
Next up is the factory edge MT13 Elmax Mule. Same routine as before, I can take pictures of the knife in about ten minutes now that I've got my technique down :)
C.L.L 97 said:
"I have a question about loupes, what is the best ones to get, and how much do they go for?? "
I've tried many styles and many different magnifications and my favorite is:
Super Mini 60X Microscope with 2-LED Illumination + Money/Currency Detecting UV Light (3*LR1130)
Item ID #00160982 for only $8.39 plus shipping.
I got it at www.lightinthebox.com for only $8.39 + shipping (it arrived in only two days)
That is seriously cool, thanks for the photos! And definitely keep them coming :)
Also, what can be taking from this is Spyderco sharpens their knifes like absolutely none other, looks amazing, even at 1000x.
I do wonder what the edge of a different brand folder would look like, like a budget folder then something of equal price to compare to the Spyderco factory edge. If you have some, give it a try, if not someone might even be willing to let you borrow theirs.
1000x is great... but now let's see what they look like through an electron microscope!
Gentlemen, it appears that we are almost always using some kind of a rip saw.
Love the pictures clip.
Thanks for the link! Next I've got to buy a strop and some compounds to get my edges more refined, then more micros.
I forgot, welcome to the forum mandrake. Thanks for the article. From the little I read it looks interesting. Lots of in-depth information.
That PDF was recomended to me a while back and I thought it rather amazing... except sometimes it took me a long time just to figure out what I was looking at.
Clip, that 200x pic of the M4 Manix is out of this world. I think that is going to become my new desktop for a while! Thanks for the efforts and I'm sure we would all love to see them keep coming. About the strops... I purchased a Large double sided strop from Stropman a few weeks ago along with the black & green compounds and could not have been happier with the value. I'm almost as happy as when I got my profile stones. I lightly touch up my edges after a days use and all my blades; VG-10, S30V, M4, Cruwear, Elmax, H1 and especially Superblue. They all come to life with just a little work. The total package with 2 of each of the compounds and the strop was like $32 shipped. He has tons more strops to choose from too. I have been using the edge of the strop to work on my Spyderhawk, but I think I am going to order one of his round strops too. Should work for the Dodo too.
If you happen to get into stropping, we all need to see some before & after shots please!
I think you've just sold me on those strops. I didn't look too closely but had thought I needed three or four for the different compounds. Looks like I'll be taking a closer look at it tonight! Good idea getting a round one for the Dodo as well. I wonder if I could wrap some leather around a large dowel or piece of PVC and get the same results.Quote:
Originally Posted by xceptnl
I wouldn't mind seeing a mirror polish finish VS bead blast too.
Can't do anything that's non-reflective like CF/G10 on the 50-1000x setup, since the light has to reflect from the metal and back through the lens to get a picture.
However, the mirror polish vs bead blast should definitely be doable! When I get a hold of each of them I'll get pictures.
thread for more
Great pictures! Are you going to do any sharpening on the mule? I'd love to see a before and after with a mirror polish.
I like the final conclusion from the 2004 Verhoeven report:
"This study addresses the question of which final polishing (honing) technique is best to remove the bur and smooth the edge face. The major conclusion of the study is that of the three honing methods studied, the best method for removing the bur and setting the edge angle is clearly a final polish on leather loaded with a polishing compound such as the chromium oxide or diamond compounds used here. Edge quality matched that of razor blade standards..."