Show your Mule

[phillipsted]

Nicely done Ted! I like the smooth holes for the screws and linen micarta. Mine are off getting a boltron sheath. What will be next:-0

Thanks for the complement, Zen! I picked my next project last night - I'm going to do my second Elmax Mule in dark ebony. Never worked with that wood, and it looks even denser and harder than cocobolo. Should be an interesting challenge. I'll see if I can do a WIP series of photos for this set...

I also picked up a Swick2 recently for a good price. I'm planning a set of scales for this thing - but it will take a little work because I want to fit the scales around the large finger hole and choil. It will take a lot of delicate work on the thin sections around the fingerhole. I'm planning to use micarta for this because it is very forgiving and won't chip out or crack. More to follow...

http://www.spyderco.com/pix/products/med/FB14P2_M.jpg

TedP

[jabba359]

That stuff is gorgeous! Just curious - it looks like those pen blanks are 5"x0.75"x0.75". This doesn't seem quite big enough for a Mule Scale. How did you get build a full slab out of these pen blanks?

TedP

I was wondering the same thing.

[Zencowboy]

I was wondering the same thing.

Ditto. That was the only site thus far I found the scales GG used. Will have to see what he says. I would like to know where got them and the durability of them.
Peace

[FeinthundredGS]

My second mule scaled and my preferred zombie knife.

http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/5692/imgp3199g.jpg

http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/4868/imgp3198y.jpg

[jtoler_9]

Love the green. Nice work. Great first post also.

[phillipsted]

Welcome to the Forum, FeinthundredGS! Nice looking Mule you have there! I assume those are green G-10 slabs - what kind of liners did you use? They look really good!

TedP

[FeinthundredGS]

Thanks for the warm welcome. Yep, toxic green with black liners. Looking forward to your Swick2 phillipsted and your Elmax! I'm thinking high-ish grade ironwood with brass for mine...

[Mr_Moe]

My second mule scaled and my preferred zombie knife.

That looks very nice, outstanding. Is that the Cobalt Special?

[FeinthundredGS]

Yes it is COS-3 and the sharpest Spyderco I've received out of the box. Gotta love hamon lines.

[phillipsted]

Did my second Elmax Mule this weekend. Tried some African Ebony off of eBay. I ended up not liking this wood very much and finishing it out in a hurry. The wood is very oily and dense, like Cocobolo, but very porous and easy to chip. The porosity combined with the "chippiness" made sanding a real PITA. I chipped the edges of the screw holes while hand sanding the scales. In addition, in my haste to get done, I forgot to seal the wood before polishing it with rouge. I ended up getting green rouge embedded in the pores of the scales. It looks good in hand, but the rouge shows up in close-up photos.

I'm thinking about sanding the handles back down to 150 grit and leaving them on as user-scales. The porosity of the wood sort of makes it feel like canvas micarta - gives you a really good grip.

Happy Easter, everyone!

TedP

http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P4085282-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P4085300-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P4085293-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P4085309-sm.jpg

[jtoler_9]

Nice work. Love the dark rich color. I can't wait to thump on the Elmax mule also.

[RoBoTech]

"phillipsted: I also picked up a Swick2 recently for a good price. I'm planning a set of scales for this thing - but it will take a little work because I want to fit the scales around the large finger hole and choil. It will take a lot of delicate work on the thin sections around the fingerhole. I'm planning to use micarta for this because it is very forgiving and won't chip out or crack. More to follow..."

I used black cherry for this one

http://www.durotechs.com/bf2/sc1.jpg

http://www.durotechs.com/bf2/2.jpg

http://www.durotechs.com/bf2/3.jpg

Just a practice piece in a cheap 440c.

[jtoler_9]

Got a few done this weekend.
http://img542.imageshack.us/img542/2101/mules.jpg
http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/956/elmaxironwooda.jpg
http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/7586/cocobolotoasted.jpg
http://img864.imageshack.us/img864/3888/cruwear.jpg

[phillipsted]

That's some really nice work, jtoler. What a trio!
All three woods look different, but I would guess that all three are cocobolo? Love the pins, as well.

If you are tackling them three at a time now, you really are an addict! :cool:

TedP

[jtoler_9]

T but I would guess that all three are cocobolo?
TedP

Thanks. This hobby is very addictive.
The top one is Cocobolo. The bottom 2 are ironwood.

[Brock O Lee]

My first Mule - Elmax in Tambotie (local version of Cocobolo, if I understand correctly). Its a hard and oily wood, but it was easy to work with.

http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg548/hansjkruger/Spyderco%20Mules/ElmaxMule5.jpg

http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg548/hansjkruger/Spyderco%20Mules/ElmaxMule7.jpg

Sheath is from KSF (Clovis pouch).

http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg548/hansjkruger/Spyderco%20Mules/ElmaxMule18.jpg

I even got a friend from work and my father-in-law interested in the Mule project. Their first Mules are also finished (in African Blackwood and Tambotie).

What an addictive hobby - I can see myself making many more...

[wquiles]

Beautiful work Hans :D

[phillipsted]

Very nice, Hans! I love the way you've emphasized the warm tones of the Tambotie wood by using brass pins.

I also like the thong cutout at the butt of the knife. The arc of the cut looks very clean - what did you use to cut it?

Cheers!
TedP

[Zencowboy]

Well Brock, I just ordered a Clovis Pouch too...thanks. Nice wood work skills.

[Brock O Lee]

Thanks guys...

I used hand tools (figure saw, files etc), except for drilling the holes. Had some mosaic pins, but for my first project I rather went with the brass corby pins for a simple and clean look. Finished with Danish oil.

Im also pleased with the Clovis pouch. I read about it on the forums while searching for a Mule sheath, and it fits perfectly.

Lots of firsts for me with this project, and I've learnt a lot. Looking forward to the 204P - planning to use some stabilised maple burl. :)

[phillipsted]

I was out taking pictures of my orange G10 collection and took one of my Super Blue Mule - it has Halpern orange G10 scales on it now, but I plan on making my own scales for it soon. It is destined to be a kitchen knife eventually...

TedP

http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P4215393-sm.jpg

[GnifeGnut]

That stuff is gorgeous! Just curious - it looks like those pen blanks are 5"x0.75"x0.75". This doesn't seem quite big enough for a Mule Scale. How did you get build a full slab out of these pen blanks?

Sorry, Ted. I didn't see the question.

I used CA glue to join two pieces.

[phillipsted]

I finished the scales on my ZDP-189 Mule this weekend. Decided to experiment a little bit - and found some hunter orange Corian from an online dealer. This stuff is normally used for countertops and sinks, and works well with standard tools. It cuts, files, drills, and sands a lot like paper micarta. However, this is a solid resin with no fibrous layers like G10 or micarta. On the positive side, you can get a pair of orange scales without having to deal with the "itchiness" of working with fiberglass fragements off G10 scales. Corian does scratch somewhat easily, but overall is pretty tough stuff. It is also a little translucent, which gives it a nice "glow" when the sun hits it from behind. Not sure I'll use this material a lot, but I'm glad I gave it a shot.

TedP

http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P4235417-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P4235437-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P4235424-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P4235440-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P4235442-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P4235419-sm.jpg

[rg02]

Looking good Ted!

Got my first mule today!
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g410/rygleason/c7ec28eb.jpg

I have some Halpern g10 scales option 4 in soldier green and a custom sheath in the works. It's cheating I know, but since I am somewhat limited on tools this works for my first mule!

[nlmd]

http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae35/nlmd/2012-04-24234406.jpg?t=1335337769

Looks like a good excuse for a first time post :)

Desert Ironwood scales

[jabba359]

Looks like a good excuse for a first time post :)

Desert Ironwood scales

Welcome to the forum. That is some beautiful Ironwood and excellent craftsmanship on the scales. I really like the hard contrast between the very light colored wood and the darker stuff. Did you make the sheath?

[phillipsted]

Hey, nlmd -beautiful scales! I agree with jabba, the contrast between the heartwood and sapwood is really nice. Ironwood is really great stuff!

TedP

[nlmd]

Welcome to the forum. That is some beautiful Ironwood and excellent craftsmanship on the scales. I really like the hard contrast between the very light colored wood and the darker stuff. Did you make the sheath?

It's a Clovis Sheath from Knivesshipfree. :)
Will do until i can make another.

[Sithus1966]

Was thinking of using some of this on one of my Elmax blades.

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i69/Sithus1966/knives/Dsc00649.jpg

[maa14]

Was thinking of using some of this on one of my Elmax blades.

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i69/Sithus1966/knives/Dsc00649.jpg

I think you should...it would look awesome

[hiredgun]

Here's my Super Blue with turquoise and purple Box Elder scales.

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a234/hiregun/IMG-20120427-00046.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a234/hiregun/IMG-20120427-00048.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a234/hiregun/IMG-20120427-00045.jpg

[Sithus1966]

Was thinking of using some of this on one of my Elmax blades.

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i69/Sithus1966/knives/Dsc00649.jpg

I did use some. Still needs more finish work and then I can get some natural light pics.

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i69/Sithus1966/knives/Dsc00651.jpg

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i69/Sithus1966/knives/Dsc00652.jpg

Day time pictures.

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i69/Sithus1966/knives/Dsc00654.jpg

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i69/Sithus1966/knives/Dsc00655.jpg

[rg02]

My first Mule all together and sheath :D

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g410/rygleason/05b50c87.jpg
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g410/rygleason/276a437c.jpg
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g410/rygleason/a4f313a1.jpg

[Holland]

http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee187/dionphaneufauthentic/IMG_1304.jpg

[Clip]

Sithus, I like how you pinned that handle. What kind of wood again?

[Sithus1966]

Sithus, I like how you pinned that handle. What kind of wood again?

It's walnut, a slice off of some gunstock lumber I picked up at a living history show.

[Train]

Hi everybody!
I am new here. Though I am certainly not new to knives and to knife collection.
It is a great forum. I enjoyed reading it for some time now.
Finally decided to share something I have done myself.
There is the one I have made two or three years ago. The handle is made of buffalo horn and striped ebony.
Have four more blades purchased just recently. I Hope some time soon to get in the right mood to make another one ..... or few.

http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc453/Poezzzz/IMG_1382.jpg

http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc453/Poezzzz/IMG_1384.jpg

http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc453/Poezzzz/IMG_1385.jpg

Sorry about making some mess with posts initially. But I have figured out how to insert the pictures after all!

[phillipsted]

Beautiful job, Train. The M4 steel begs to be used, but the scales look too pretty to get dirty! ;)

How was the ebony to work with. I did an ebony scale set recently, and wasn't impressed. The wood was grainy and tended to tear out more than I liked. There are several different species of ebony, though - I was using Gabon ebony.

TedP

[maa14]

Beautiful job, Train. The M4 steel begs to be used, but the scales look too pretty to get dirty! ;)

How was the ebony to work with. I did an ebony scale set recently, and wasn't impressed. The wood was grainy and tended to tear out more than I liked. There are several different species of ebony, though - I was using Gabon ebony.

TedP

yea it is great looking!

[Train]

Thanks!
That was the second knife where I used this ebony for the handle. I liked it so far. It has a nice small grain (cannot see it on the photo of course) and it did not present any challenges. No evidence of cracking or any gluing problems. I know what you are saying about Gabon ebony: I had some too. It works out OK at the end, but it is very different. I do not know much about the origin of the block of the striped ebony I am using. But as I said I quite like it and glad that the block is still quite big. :)

[capid1]

M390 Mule in Red and Black G10.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h325/capid1/DSC_0253.jpg

[wquiles]

Great job on the pins - love how you did it :)

Will

[phillipsted]

Nicely done, Capid!
TedP

[phillipsted]

Just finished my Super Blue Mule in Cocobolo this evening. It's too dark to take photos - will post some shots this weekend!

TedP

[Ferris Wheels]

Just finished my Super Blue Mule in Cocobolo this evening. It's too dark to take photos - will post some shots this weekend!

TedP

Tease!!!!!

[jtoler_9]

Just finished my Super Blue Mule in Cocobolo this evening. It's too dark to take photos - will post some shots this weekend!

TedP

It's the weekend somewhere. :) Can't wait to see the pics.

[phillipsted]

Guys - I've found an interesting addition to my scale attachment method I wanted to pass along. As many of you know, I use threaded pivot bolts and screws to attach my scales (instead of pins). This allows me to securely attach my Mule scales without having to resort to epoxy - I can un-bolt the scales and remove them as desired. This is the same approach that Halpern uses with its scales. I have expoxied a few Mules that were going to be used in the kitchen so that they were a bit more waterproof - but the majority of my Mules are just bolted.

I normally use a counterbore or stepped drill bit to countersink the bolt head. The trick is getting the counterbore hole drilled to the right depth so that you have a nice "shelf" for the screw head to rest against - allowing you to snug up the scales tightly. Too deep and the screw heads don't contact the scales. Too shallow and the screw threads can't reach down to the pivot bolt.

A couple of weeks ago, I was cruising around Amazon's "small parts" site (now rebranded as "Amazon Supply"). It is a fantastic shop, similar to McMaster Carr - with tons and tons of small parts (as the name implies!). I found some very small washers that are 0.250" in diameter with a 0.190" hole. This is the perfect size for fitting down into the hole in the scale - giving the screws a solid metal washer to rest against, and giving me more accurate matching of the pivot bolt to the scales. Plus, it makes the knife scales much stronger.

Here is the link to these washers. I'll post some pics this weekend along with my Cocobolo Super Blue Mule.

TedP

Precision Shim Washers for Inner Bearing Races (http://www.amazonsupply.com/dp/B004K1FEX8/ref=sp_dp_g2c_asin)
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31wSsjdQNZL._AA220_.jpg

[phillipsted]

Sorry for the tease, guys. I was just so excited about this one, I couldn't wait to share the results. This is my Super Blue Mule shod in some Cocobolo purchased off the 'bay. The Cocobolo was a bit softer and than other cocobolo I've worked with in the past and had more of an open grain - it might be an alternate species. But the color and contrasts are very fetching. I'll probably end up sealing it with TruOil sometime soon.

As I noted in the previous post, I used the washers under the screws to provide a more secure attachment. The scales are just screwed on at this point - they aren't expoxied. There are good points and bad points to that, I know. But I wanted to be able to take off the scales and check the scales for discoloration/rust periodically.

TedP

http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P5265544-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P5265528-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P5265533-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P5265534-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P5265539-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P5265531-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P5265537-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P5265541-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P5265529-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P5265530-sm.jpg

[jtoler_9]

Beautiful work as per usual Ted. I love Cocobolo. There is so much carachter. Nice photo's also. Thanks for sharing.

[Stew]

Just a simple one - M4 with maroon micarta and brass.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/sjlight/P1070243.jpg

[phillipsted]

Nicely done, Stew! That M4 Mule is a real winner. Plus, I'm a sucker for maroon micarta... :rolleyes:

TedP

[Ferris Wheels]

Sorry for the tease, guys. I was just so excited about this one, I couldn't wait to share the results. This is my Super Blue Mule shod in some Cocobolo purchased off the 'bay. The Cocobolo was a bit softer and than other cocobolo I've worked with in the past and had more of an open grain - it might be an alternate species. But the color and contrasts are very fetching. I'll probably end up sealing it with TruOil sometime soon.

As I noted in the previous post, I used the washers under the screws to provide a more secure attachment. The scales are just screwed on at this point - they aren't expoxied. There are good points and bad points to that, I know. But I wanted to be able to take off the scales and check the scales for discoloration/rust periodically.

TedP

http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P5265544-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P5265528-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P5265533-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P5265534-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P5265539-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P5265531-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P5265537-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P5265541-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P5265529-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P5265530-sm.jpg

Great work, those scales look gorgeous and definitely worth the wait you tease.

[nlmd]

http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae35/nlmd/DSC00473.jpg

Purpled :o

[Holland]

simple is classy

[phillipsted]

Hey, the activity on this thread has slowed down a bit lately.

What's everyone working on?

I'm finishing up a Swick 2 -putting PurpleHeart scales on it. The scales aren't very large, but that handle shape has a lot of curves to it. I'm spending a bit of time battling the splintery-ness of the PurpleHeart while trying to even out all the curves and slopes on the scales so that they feel natural in hand.

The PurpleHeart is an interesting material. Like I said, it is kind of splintery which creates challenges. It is relatively soft as well - and it is easy to cut away too much with the files or rough sandpaper. But the color is pretty amazing. The wood has darkened substantially since I've started working with it. My friends tell me that it will turn a deep dark purple over time, which would be beautiful. But for now, it is the color of black-cherry-Koolaid.

BTW, I found a great place to get natural wood scales - Bell Forest Products (http://www.bellforestproducts.com/). Lots of interesting wood selections at good prices, and they offer pre-cut scale slabs.

I should be able to post pics of the Swick 2 sometime this week.

TedP

[eitenbuffalo34]

I have a question, how does everyone do this?

Where do you all get the handle scale materials?
Do you do this with power tools (like a dremmel, etc.) or do you use files and sand paper?
How do you put the finish on (wood) or texture for other materials?
What screws/pivots do you all use?
and how do you figure out where the holes in the handle are behind the handle scale so that you can put the screw there?

I am thinking about getting one and trying this all out and just was looking for some advice because the mules on this forum are beautiful, thank you.

[RoBoTech]

Hey, the activity on this thread has slowed down a bit lately.

What's everyone working on?

I'm finishing up a Swick 2 -putting PurpleHeart scales on it. The scales aren't very large, but that handle shape has a lot of curves to it. I'm spending a bit of time battling the splintery-ness of the PurpleHeart while trying to even out all the curves and slopes on the scales so that they feel natural in hand.

The PurpleHeart is an interesting material. Like I said, it is kind of splintery which creates challenges. It is relatively soft as well - and it is easy to cut away too much with the files or rough sandpaper. But the color is pretty amazing. The wood has darkened substantially since I've started working with it. My friends tell me that it will turn a deep dark purple over time, which would be beautiful. But for now, it is the color of black-cherry-Koolaid.

BTW, I found a great place to get natural wood scales - Bell Forest Products (http://www.bellforestproducts.com/). Lots of interesting wood selections at good prices, and they offer pre-cut scale slabs.

I should be able to post pics of the Swick 2 sometime this week.

TedP


I like Purple Heart myself and have used it for fixed blades for a while.
In MY experience, it does not get more "purple" as it ages, but a dark brown. But that's me.
To make it tougher. and to hold it's color, stabilize it. Stabilizing will add some darkness to it, and it's hard to find clear "stabilizer" fluid. So think about that.
Here is a little home brew way of doing a few sets at a time. (http://www.northcoastknives.com/northcoast_knives_tutorials_hints_tips3.htm)
Make note that AFTER stabilizing, it get's really hard to work with and will clog up sanding media in a hurry. Best to do a rough shaping before stabilizing.
This is in my experience, but, others may not share that, so, decide for yourself.

[phillipsted]

RoBo - that looks like a really cool technique. I reviewed that NCK tutorial after someone (may have been you) linked to it previously. Looks really messy, but kinda fun!

I opted for a few coats of TruOil. It doesn't penetrate as deeply as your technique, but TruOil gives you a really nice durable finish that fills in the pores of the wood's surface. Thin coat. Cure. Steel wool. Thin coat. Cure. Steel wool. Repeat.

TedP

[phillipsted]

I have a question, how does everyone do this?

Where do you all get the handle scale materials?
Do you do this with power tools (like a dremmel, etc.) or do you use files and sand paper?
How do you put the finish on (wood) or texture for other materials?
What screws/pivots do you all use?
and how do you figure out where the holes in the handle are behind the handle scale so that you can put the screw there?

I am thinking about getting one and trying this all out and just was looking for some advice because the mules on this forum are beautiful, thank you.

Welcome to the Forum, eitenbuffalo34! It's a lot easier than you might think. There are several good tutorials on this Forum to get you started. I'll include links for several of the good ones below. But to be honest, most of my scales are done with all hand tools. I just like the physical aspect of shaping the scales with saws, files, and sandpaper. There are also lots of good material suppliers you can find with a quick Google: Jantz, Texas Knife Makers, Masecraft, USA Knife Makers, Hawkins, Sheffield...

Take a look at these tutorials, check out these web sites, and drop back by this thread to ask some more questions!

TedP

http://spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40768
http://spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40984
http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35469
http://spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40418

[RoBoTech]

Where do you all get the handle scale materials?


One place that is hardly ever mentioned is my favorite G-10 supplier (http://www.alphaknifesupply.com/zdata-G10pictures.htm#G10-Orange).
Their inventory changes a bit, but most of their selection is usually in stock. If not today, wait a day or two, or call them.
VERY reasonable prices for 11X8 sheets!
I have some Royal Blue, OD, Orange (Coarse), Toxic Green, Ruby Red (in fine and coarse), Yellow (coarse), Sand, Jade, Earth/Coyote/Tan, OD Camo, Pink, and some White.
If for fixed blades, go for .250 (1/4") thickness unless you want to make a massive grip, or doing a scuplted grip, or want to do a lot of extra work cutting it down.
Lately, my projects have been folders, so I very seldom go thicker than .125 (1/8) with most in the 0.90 range.
That's what I like about AKS, you can find this stuff in varying thickness.

[Clip]

Hey, the activity on this thread has slowed down a bit lately.

What's everyone working on?

Picking up my Cruwear Mule next weekend. I had it shipped to a relative who's really into woodworking. While I was at it, I shipped him cocobolo and rosewood scales and brass rod and tube. He used the cocobolo on the knife at my request, so I'll be picking up the rosewood scales and extra brass to replace those G10 scales (thanks!) on my Elmax. It's a toss up whether I'll use the rosewood or (more likely)a slab of black walnut from my grandfather's shop, it's got a nice looking burl to it. I like a back story on these knives, and maybe one day when I pass them on I can pass the story on as well.

[eitenbuffalo34]

Does anyone know when the next mules will be coming out?

[phillipsted]

I would imagine that they would be issuing them soon, given that they were really busy the past few weeks planning for the Blade Show. Now that its over, I hope it hits the street soon! I'm in for a couple!

TedP

[eitenbuffalo34]

I have a question, how does everyone do this?

Where do you all get the handle scale materials?
Do you do this with power tools (like a dremmel, etc.) or do you use files and sand paper?
How do you put the finish on (wood) or texture for other materials?
What screws/pivots do you all use?
and how do you figure out where the holes in the handle are behind the handle scale so that you can put the screw there?

I am thinking about getting one and trying this all out and just was looking for some advice because the mules on this forum are beautiful, thank you.

..

[DougB2]

Hey, the activity on this thread has slowed down a bit lately.

What's everyone working on?

http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss147/spook89_89/M390Muleresize-1.jpg

I took the black and gray G-10 scales off since the left and right sides didn't line up (the black and red sections were off). I used blue G-10 and the pivot bolts and screws that you like. Problem is, they sent me the wrong screws, so I went to the local home improvement store and got cap screws. I thought I had everything drilled properly but they were a pain in the aft section. I may remove the screws and either try again or just epoxy and pin them. Will post pix once I'm happy with it.

[FeinthundredGS]

A couple of Bike knives for the two dads in my life, my dad rides a GS1200ADV and my father-in-law is a Harley man so I though I'd share my love of Spyderco with them. To all the dad's out there...Here's to hoping your Father's Day weekend is great and safe one. :)


BMW Motorrad inspired: White G10 with racing stripe liners.
http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/8154/imgp3479n.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/845/imgp3479n.jpg/)

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/6841/imgp3501p.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/15/imgp3501p.jpg/)

http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/7581/imgp3504h.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/651/imgp3504h.jpg/)

...makes me forget about Benchmade (no hating, i'm just sayin'). Black G10 w/ orange liners. H-D sheild inlays.
http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/2251/imgp3507i.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/708/imgp3507i.jpg/)

http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/2723/imgp3520w.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/254/imgp3520w.jpg/)

http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/2322/imgp3528p.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/221/imgp3528p.jpg/)

:spyder:

[xceptnl]

A couple of Bike knifes for the two dads in my life, my dad rides a GS1200ADV and my father-in-law is a Harley man so I though I'd share my love of Spyderco with them. To all the dad's out there...Here's to hoping your Father's Day weekend is great and safe one. :)


BMW Motorrad inspired: White G10 with racing stripe liners.

...makes me forget about Benchmade (no hating, i'm just sayin'). Black G10 w/ orange liners. H-D sheild inlays.

Welcome to the forum and WOW, you do some great work and really well thought out with the color schemes and handle lines. Keep the pictures coming.

[phillipsted]

Beautiful job, FeinthundredGS!

And welcome to the Forum!

TedP

[phillipsted]

I put the last coat of Tru-Oil on my PurpleHeart Swick2 scales last evening and buffed it out this morning. PurpleHeart is interesting material - a little too porous and splintery for my taste, but it looks beautiful with a high gloss finish. The tiny Swick2 handle was fun to work on - its about a third the size of a regular Mule scale and has lots of interesting curves. The end result feels really nice in-hand.

TedP

http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P6165564-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P6165583-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P6165565-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P6165566-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P6165568-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P6165570-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P6165571-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P6165572-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P6165575-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P6165581-sm.jpg

[dfriedl]

Just finished my Cruwear Mule. Walnut scales and chainring bolts for mounting hardwear.
http://i.imgur.com/QGXh3h.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/rNF1zh.jpg

[xceptnl]

...chainring bolts for mounting hardwear.

Those are some serious fasteners. They look like Torx T-50 or T-65 at first glance. They probably significantly change the balance.

[phillipsted]

I like the walnut dfriedl! It looks like it is stablized - did you need to add a finish to it to get that smooth silky texture?

TedP

[dfriedl]

Those are some serious fasteners. They look like Torx T-50 or T-65 at first glance. They probably significantly change the balance.

They're bulky, but made of a very lightweight alloy so they don't change the balance much. No different than using on of the various wood densities seen in this thread I imagine.


I like the walnut dfriedl! It looks like it is stablized - did you need to add a finish to it to get that smooth silky texture?

TedP

Its raw walnut, sanded to 500 grit and then treated with tru-oil and buffed with a paper towel.

[bdblue]

I recently got the Chinese Mule along with some G10 scales. (Here it is communing with my Chinese Tenacious.) I will probably take off the G10 and make some wood scales for it.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a370/bjd70/Knives/photo459c.jpg

[phillipsted]

I decided to post some shots of the lignum vitae scales on my ZDP-189 Mule this evening. They still aren't quite finished. Need to rub out some scratches, polish down the edge of the Mule's tang, and generally trim it up. But after a week of no electricity and no A/C, I figured I'd put it down for a few days.

In any event, this is my first time working with Lignum Vitae... Great stuff - very dense, hard, tough and oily - it clogs up files and sandpaper like nobody's business. It is also very forgiving, not chipping or splintering while working it. Plus, it is so resinous, you don't have to stabilize it or even put a top coat on it!

TedP

http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P7055633-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P7055637-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P7055654-sm.jpg

[Thompson]

Edit: After looking at more tutorials, I think I have everything figured out. I missed a few pages of this thread which had the info I was looking for.
I'm looking into buying a mule, and I just have a couple questions about what type of screws or pins you use to connect the handles? Can anyone show me what kind of screws they use, and where I could get them? Thanks!

[phillipsted]

Hey, Thompson!

You've got a few choices about the style of pins/bolts you want to use on your knife. I use 3/16" pivot bolts with torx screws so I can make the scales detachable. Other folks use pins or Corby bolts along with epoxy to make a more permanent bond. Each of these methods use slightly different finishing processes.

I'd go check out the knife supply houses and pick the supplies for the method you want to try. (e.g., USA Knifemaker Supply, Texas Knifemaker Supplies, Jantz Supply)

Check back here if you have questions - we'd be glad to provide assistance!

[Thompson]

Hey, Thompson!

You've got a few choices about the style of pins/bolts you want to use on your knife. I use 3/16" pivot bolts with torx screws so I can make the scales detachable. Other folks use pins or Corby bolts along with epoxy to make a more permanent bond. Each of these methods use slightly different finishing processes.

I'd go check out the knife supply houses and pick the supplies for the method you want to try. (e.g., USA Knifemaker Supply, Texas Knifemaker Supplies, Jantz Supply)

Check back here if you have questions - we'd be glad to provide assistance!

Thank you for your help! I was still wondering what size pivot bolts to use, so that is very helpful. Thanks again!

[phillipsted]

Thank you for your help! I was still wondering what size pivot bolts to use, so that is very helpful. Thanks again!

You are welcome! Here's what you are looking for, Thompson:

http://www.knifemaking.com/product-p/f6.htm

TedP

[farns]

This is my first attempt at putting scales on a mule. Except for some overzealous filing in a couple spots I am pretty happy with it. My question would be about finish, I have currently sanded to 600 grit and buffed the handle. It is bubinga and I would like to maintain a somewhat food safe finish. I understand that food safe finishes may need to be re-applied as time passes but was considering walnut oil with a coat of bees wax. Does anyone have experience that would recommend not doing this?

20591
20592

[phillipsted]

This is my first attempt at putting scales on a mule. Except for some overzealous filing in a couple spots I am pretty happy with it. My question would be about finish, I have currently sanded to 600 grit and buffed the handle. It is bubinga and I would like to maintain a somewhat food safe finish. I understand that food safe finishes may need to be re-applied as time passes but was considering walnut oil with a coat of bees wax. Does anyone have experience that would recommend not doing this?

First off, welcome to the Forum, farns! And what a beautiful mule - very nice work on the scales!

I'm sure others may have thoughts about the handle finish - but I wouldn't worry too much about the handle being food-safe. Normally, the blade is the main thing that comes in contact with the food.

As far as the scales are concerned, my main worry would be water infiltration of the wood and the harboring of bacteria. The best way to address this is to make the scales as close to "waterproof" as possible - this way you can wipe them down and sanitize them after use.

And the best product I've found for making knife scales waterproof is Tru-Oil (http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=4952/Product/TRU-OIL-STOCK-FINISH), which is sold in sporting goods stores as a gun stock finish. Tru-Oil is a polymerized linseed oil base which cures hard and waterproof. Just make sure to put on very thin coats, wipe it down, let it dry, buff it with steel wool, and repeat. I've used it for years - and on a recent mule (see the pictures of the Purpleheart Swick above), I put on 8 thin coats over a couple of days. It sealed the pores and made a clear, hard, impervious finish. Great stuff!

TedP

[DCDesigns]

I have a question, how does everyone do this?

Where do you all get the handle scale materials?
Do you do this with power tools (like a dremmel, etc.) or do you use files and sand paper?
How do you put the finish on (wood) or texture for other materials?
What screws/pivots do you all use?
and how do you figure out where the holes in the handle are behind the handle scale so that you can put the screw there?

I am thinking about getting one and trying this all out and just was looking for some advice because the mules on this forum are beautiful, thank you...

That is way too much to explain here. What you basically are asking for is a beginners crash course on knife making. I will explain the basics, but you have more research to do, books to read, websites to find, forums to peruse. The skill and information it takes to make and fit handles correctly is not likely something that can be learned just through one post. There is no one correct way to do it, so most likely you will develope your on technique based on your skills and whats available to you. What I use are three main tools to do just about everything when Im making handles. 1- Bandsaw- to rough out the handle shape - 2 Drill Press, to drill holes (as well as to use with a spindle sanding attatchment to do inside radii) 3- Belt/circular combination stand alone sanding machine- to do the rough shaping on outter radii. However, thats a couple grand worth of equipment, so if you arent a wood worker already, it is not likely you will have access to all of these. The one thing I would say you need access to out of these is a bandsaw (or scroll saw, even a jigsaw, something you can get a rough shape out of wood scales with) . However the most useful of the three, and if you were to BUY one, I would say get a drill press. Many attatchments exist that can turn it into several different tools. Also, it is MUCH MUCH more precise than trying to clamp things and use a hand drill. Its also the cheapest. You can find a decent Delta bench mounted drill press for $200 (dont bother with anything cheaper. Just as I would say dont bother with cheap bench mounted bandsaws. If all you are doing is shaping .3" thick wood, then I guess its ok, but it really cannot handle much thicker. for that you need at least 1 hp) The bare minimum saw I would say that is worth buying is a 14" 1hp+ bandsaw. They start at around $500 when you figure in shipping the 250lb thing and go up to a grand or more with all the bells and whistles or if it has a prestigious badge.

to answer some of your more specific questions. Where do you get handle material: personally, I sell figured woods for a living, so I fire up a chainsaw and walk into the forrest. But there are too many options to list for that aswer. Any knife supply website will have handle material, not necessarily at a value price, but they have it. Also many websites exist specifically to sell pre cut knife scales. The finish: again, no right anwer. Hundreds of products exist out there for finishing wood. You want one that is easy to apply evenly, that will not rub off after a lot of handling. You want durable. I have used everythign from CA (superglue) to automotive clear coat). Pin material - There are many options from screws to corbys to regular pin stock. I use regular old pins, solid metal rounds. And for your last question, how you figure where the holes go, you use the knife itself as your template. And I dont mean mark it, through it then drill, odds are you will screw up. I mean clamp the bloody thing to the handle material, and drill through it! Once you have one hole drilled, slide a pin the same size as the hole through the knife into the handle material to hold it still, and then drill the other holes, repeating the steps with the pins... Pro tip- you want a perfectly flat piece of material at least a half inch thick (High density particle board works well, but you can use any perfectly flat piece of hardwood), that you use as a sacrifical piece under your project. SInce you will drill through the handle material anyway, you want whatever is under it to be unimportant but perfectly flat. It will also help when you slide the pins through if you can also slide it into the sacrificial piece to keep the whole thing still. Do the same for the other side, then put it together. Take it to a sander and make the handle flush up to the steel tang and start shaping. There is your crash course. Hope it helps!

[DCDesigns]

Sorry for the tease, guys. I was just so excited about this one, I couldn't wait to share the results. This is my Super Blue Mule shod in some Cocobolo purchased off the 'bay. The Cocobolo was a bit softer and than other cocobolo I've worked with in the past and had more of an open grain - it might be an alternate species. But the color and contrasts are very fetching. I'll probably end up sealing it with TruOil sometime soon.

As I noted in the previous post, I used the washers under the screws to provide a more secure attachment. The scales are just screwed on at this point - they aren't expoxied. There are good points and bad points to that, I know. But I wanted to be able to take off the scales and check the scales for discoloration/rust periodically.

TedP

http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P5265530-sm.jpg

Thats beautiful work man. Very unique approach. If-8 I didnt commit one set of scales to one mule Id go crazy making tons of them to match my outfit and what not lol. Its always a tough choice for which wood to use. I have probably 12 different sets of scales commited that I have pre-roughed out for mule handles of the highest figured woods I have collected over the years, that I drag out everytime I get a mule and try to match the wood to the "character" of the steel. Its never easy!

[DCDesigns]

http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae35/nlmd/2012-04-24234406.jpg?t=1335337769

Looks like a good excuse for a first time post :)

Desert Ironwood scales

WOW, Great first post! welcome to the forums! Gotta love ariszona Ironwood. That is one really nice looking sheath too! The pieces Im using are the wildest of burls I have found. Im working on an Ironwood re-scale myself. Check it out!: Ironwood Bushcraft Thread (http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?52387-Removing-The-Bushcraft-s-Handles-to-Make-My-Own/page2)

[farns]

First off, welcome to the Forum, farns! And what a beautiful mule - very nice work on the scales!


Thank you for the nice comment. It was an experience filled with many lessons learned.



And the best product I've found for making knife scales waterproof is Tru-Oil (http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=4952/Product/TRU-OIL-STOCK-FINISH), which is sold in sporting goods stores as a gun stock finish. Tru-Oil is a polymerized linseed oil base which cures hard and waterproof.


I have read a lot on the forums about Tru-Oil. My budget on this is very small, so if I can not spend more that would be great. I have read some information about using teak/danish oil which I have some of that and rub on poly. Maybe those would work ok as a two stage application process. The teak oil looks very nice on a scrap piece of wood I have left over. Thoughts?

20593

[phillipsted]

While we are waiting on the new 204P Mule to drop, I thought I would check in to see what everyone is working on.

I've got my last Woodcraft S30V Mule in the shop right now. I found the coolest set of black and white ebony scales on eBay. They are a cream salt-and-pepper along one edge and sort of a mottled reddish color on the other edge - with a jet black streak running right down the middle. I set up the knife so that the pins are drilled right smack dab in the middle of the black streak, which runs the entire length of the scales. My wife says that they look like a "calico cat".

Anyway, I finished shaping the scales today and start the sanding and finishing this week. I should have some pictures online in the next few days.

TedP

http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/KGrHqVn0E-v2loRWhBP7QDkQDcw60_3.jpg

[xceptnl]

^^^ WOW ^^^ Those look great Ted. Looking forward to seeing how they look on your 204P.

[nlmd]

more purple, ebayed sheath
http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae35/nlmd/purple.jpg

[phillipsted]

Well, summer's been a slow season for Mule'ing. Too much fun stuff to do outside before it gets cold this winter! But I finally got finished up with the Woodcraft Mule I've been tinkering with for a few months. You can see the wood slabs a couple of posts above - it is a really nice set of black-and-white ebony scales. My wife says the coloring (gold, black, red) reminds her of a calico cat.

In any event - it did my usual treatment of bolting the scales with no adhesive, giving me the option of replacing them at some point. Because ebony is so porous, I finished these scales with TruOil. I ran into a little bit of trouble with dust settling on the scales during the finishing - summer is a bear for flying dust and other contaminants. I ended up polishing the scales with steel wool and adding more top coats. All-in-all, I added about 10 coats of TruOil to these scales and it sealed up the grain very nicely.

Now, off to my next adventure - making a Native V into an Orange G10 monster!

TedP

http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P9015816-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P9015833-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P9015837-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P9015820-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P9015824-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P9015839-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P9015826-sm.jpg

[eitenbuffalo34]

That is way too much to explain here. What you basically are asking for is a beginners crash course on knife making. I will explain the basics, but you have more research to do, books to read, websites to find, forums to peruse. The skill and information it takes to make and fit handles correctly is not likely something that can be learned just through one post. There is no one correct way to do it, so most likely you will develope your on technique based on your skills and whats available to you. What I use are three main tools to do just about everything when Im making handles. 1- Bandsaw- to rough out the handle shape - 2 Drill Press, to drill holes (as well as to use with a spindle sanding attatchment to do inside radii) 3- Belt/circular combination stand alone sanding machine- to do the rough shaping on outter radii. However, thats a couple grand worth of equipment, so if you arent a wood worker already, it is not likely you will have access to all of these. The one thing I would say you need access to out of these is a bandsaw (or scroll saw, even a jigsaw, something you can get a rough shape out of wood scales with) . However the most useful of the three, and if you were to BUY one, I would say get a drill press. Many attatchments exist that can turn it into several different tools. Also, it is MUCH MUCH more precise than trying to clamp things and use a hand drill. Its also the cheapest. You can find a decent Delta bench mounted drill press for $200 (dont bother with anything cheaper. Just as I would say dont bother with cheap bench mounted bandsaws. If all you are doing is shaping .3" thick wood, then I guess its ok, but it really cannot handle much thicker. for that you need at least 1 hp) The bare minimum saw I would say that is worth buying is a 14" 1hp+ bandsaw. They start at around $500 when you figure in shipping the 250lb thing and go up to a grand or more with all the bells and whistles or if it has a prestigious badge.

to answer some of your more specific questions. Where do you get handle material: personally, I sell figured woods for a living, so I fire up a chainsaw and walk into the forrest. But there are too many options to list for that aswer. Any knife supply website will have handle material, not necessarily at a value price, but they have it. Also many websites exist specifically to sell pre cut knife scales. The finish: again, no right anwer. Hundreds of products exist out there for finishing wood. You want one that is easy to apply evenly, that will not rub off after a lot of handling. You want durable. I have used everythign from CA (superglue) to automotive clear coat). Pin material - There are many options from screws to corbys to regular pin stock. I use regular old pins, solid metal rounds. And for your last question, how you figure where the holes go, you use the knife itself as your template. And I dont mean mark it, through it then drill, odds are you will screw up. I mean clamp the bloody thing to the handle material, and drill through it! Once you have one hole drilled, slide a pin the same size as the hole through the knife into the handle material to hold it still, and then drill the other holes, repeating the steps with the pins... Pro tip- you want a perfectly flat piece of material at least a half inch thick (High density particle board works well, but you can use any perfectly flat piece of hardwood), that you use as a sacrifical piece under your project. SInce you will drill through the handle material anyway, you want whatever is under it to be unimportant but perfectly flat. It will also help when you slide the pins through if you can also slide it into the sacrificial piece to keep the whole thing still. Do the same for the other side, then put it together. Take it to a sander and make the handle flush up to the steel tang and start shaping. There is your crash course. Hope it helps!

Thank you.

[Stew]

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/320199_273030796140082_1366123706_n.jpg

Bit of Horse Chestnut Burr and some mosaic pins. :D

[phillipsted]

Your Elmax Mule looks really beautiful - especially with those pins. Nicely done, Stew.

Just curious... How is chestnut to work with? I've seen burl on the web sites, but never handled it. Were your slabs stabilized? It chestnut dense? Hard? Chippy?

TedP

[rodloos]

Yes Stew that is beautiful! Do you have a sheath to go with it yet?

I only have one Mule I've made scales for so far, comfortable but not real pretty. Several of my other Mules I have used one variety or another of the Halpern Titanium scales. They are pretty good for the price, especially since they include the mounting hardware, but I hope to make some more of my own scales.

[Bladekeeper]

Nice job mate love it

[farns]

Well I finally finished it. In general it came out pretty nice but the blade meets handle needs a little cleanup in a couple spots. Learned some good things that I hopefully can improve upon for MT15P. Besides the handle, the CRUWEAR turned out to be a very nice performer in light to medium tasks (although I'm sure it could handle much more). Cardboard, blister packs, etc were no problem and worked well in the yard. Very happy with this and had a great time completing the project.

20851

[xceptnl]

...Very happy with this and had a great time completing the project

farns, that is a beautiful custom handle. Thanks for sharing and welcome to the forum.

[Bladekeeper]

Philipstead that mod with the large choil hole is great you have a clan of mules there bud , farns that is very smart reminds me of machline wear antique boxes, also gives me an idea to lay some mop in like that although I would have to ask somebody to handle it my skills are ...well limited tbh but I can still put together the concept .

[phillipsted]

While I'm waiting on the new MT15 to arrive, I decided to try some of the damascus knife blade blanks available on the web. The one I worked on the past couple of weeks is a Trail Hunter from Two Finger Knives. It is a nice blade with large 0.25" tang holes. I decided to match it with some Lacewood scales. I had never worked with Lacewood before, and it was an interesting material. The wood is fairly lightweight, and the "pithy" part of the wood (the part that looks lacy) is really soft. You have to be careful sanding it - if you sand with a sponge or mop, the soft parts will erode quickly leaving an uneven surface. On the upside, the wood is very forgiving during shaping and it responded well to sharp files, not splintering or splitting much at all. It attached the scales with 0.25" pivot bolts and finished them with about 10 thin coats of Tru-Oil.

My next project is to put some really twisted Ironwood burl on my new MT15!

TedP

http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P9165870-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P9165872-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P9165873-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P9165880-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P9165882-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P9165888-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P9165884-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P9165889-sm.jpg

[Pockets]

I need a Mule now...

H1, maybe :rolleyes:

[Let Us Slay !]

Just got my 2 MT-15s in :D
One is going to be cocobolo and the other pink and orange g-10 (for the ladyfriend).

http://i49.tinypic.com/14bhrf6.jpg

[phillipsted]

I finished my B75P Mule this weekend. I'd been saving a nice piece of ironwood burl from Arizona Ironwood and decided to break it out. I'd forgotten how touchy burl can be some times. I had a couple of problems with voids and tearouts - but the piece came together well. I realized after I started taking pictures that I forgot to buff the scales out with RenWax. I'll do that this afternoon.

I've got my other B75P outfitted with some G10 user scales and will be giving it some outdoor testing next weekend - we are going to the mountains for a campout.

TedP

http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/PA075905-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/PA075913-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/PA075933-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/PA075941-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/PA075914-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/PA075917-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/PA075932-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/PA075934-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/PA075936-sm.jpg

[jabba359]

Beautiful work as always Ted.

[Dietz]

Hi everyone, this is my first post, mule and scales. It's not perfect but I like it and it will be a user, it feels GREAT in the hand.

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/6923/photo299s.jpg

http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/1160/photo300s.jpg

http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/8343/photo303.jpg

http://img585.imageshack.us/img585/5840/photo302r.jpg

Here you can see some beginner's mistake, like cutting too close to the outline...
http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/2016/photo305u.jpg

Pictures taken on a sheet of coyote brown kydex that will be used to make a sheath for it. I think about drilling out the ¼ hole to attach a lanyard or grind off the tip of the scales to show the 3/16 hole. Tell me what you think.

[phillipsted]

Dietz - First off, welcome to the Forum!

Beautiful first Mule! Nothing really beats the natural canvas micarta look and feel. Your shaping looks great for a user blade, and I bet the micarta feels warm and solid in hand. Love it!

TedP

[Rwb1500]

Sorry for the tease, guys. I was just so excited about this one, I couldn't wait to share the results. This is my Super Blue Mule shod in some Cocobolo purchased off the 'bay. The Cocobolo was a bit softer and than other cocobolo I've worked with in the past and had more of an open grain - it might be an alternate species. But the color and contrasts are very fetching. I'll probably end up sealing it with TruOil sometime soon.

As I noted in the previous post, I used the washers under the screws to provide a more secure attachment. The scales are just screwed on at this point - they aren't expoxied. There are good points and bad points to that, I know. But I wanted to be able to take off the scales and check the scales for discoloration/rust periodically.

TedP

http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P5265544-sm.jpg



Hey Ted, incredible work, as usual.
I had a couple questions about finishing with Tru-oil.

Do you sand up through grits, buff, then simply apply the oil in a few thin coats?

Or do you use another oil like Danish oil to finish first? What advantages do you see in the Tru-oil vs something like tung oil or Danish oil?

I've got a coco bolo Cruwear mule that is reaching completion.

[Rwb1500]

Speaking of which;

http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af282/rwb1500/IMAG0768_zps5cc67157.jpg

Complete with Hello Kitty band aid. I ran a coping saw across my knuckle. :eek:

[Dietz]

Dietz - First off, welcome to the Forum!

Beautiful first Mule! Nothing really beats the natural canvas micarta look and feel. Your shaping looks great for a user blade, and I bet the micarta feels warm and solid in hand. Love it!

TedP
Thanks. I did it all with hand tools.

Here's the sheath I made this weekend, my first one too. Blade got scratched up from leftover kydex residue in the sheath but that's to be expected.

http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/9198/photo308wr.jpg

http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/108/photo311i.jpg

http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/4962/photo310u.jpg

[phillipsted]

Hey Ted, incredible work, as usual.
I had a couple questions about finishing with Tru-oil.

Do you sand up through grits, buff, then simply apply the oil in a few thin coats?

Or do you use another oil like Danish oil to finish first? What advantages do you see in the Tru-oil vs something like tung oil or Danish oil?

Thanks, RWB.

Tru-Oil is actually a polymerized tung oil - not unlike Danish Oil. The nice thing about Tru-Oil is that it cures hard and waterproof, without that plasticky feeling you can get from urethane finishes. Here's how I do it:

1. Using my finger, I wipe on a very thin coat of Tru-Oil. For the first coat, you might need to lay it on a bit thicker because some of it is soaking into the wood.

2. Let the knife sit for 10 minutes, then wipe off the excess oil with a soft cloth.

3. Let the finish cure for at least 4 hours, or until it isn't tacky any more.

4. Buff the finish with 0000 steel wool. You'll take off a little of the finish, but it makes the surface smooth enough to accept the next coat.

5. Repeat steps 1-4 as many times as you like. Many of my knife scales get up to 10 very thin coats of Tru-Oil. The trick is to keep the individual coats very very very thin.

6. When you get to the last coat, buff the cured scales with a muslin buff to polish it up.

7. Finish it with a top coat of Renaissance wax to give it that "new car shine." Just rub in and polish it with a soft cloth.

TedP

[JB3]

There's some beautiful work in this thread! Compliments to the crafters of all the fine looking Mules in here!
This was one of my first custom scale and file work projects ... M4 steel ... I gave it to my brother for Christmas.

http://i554.photobucket.com/albums/jj405/JayBee3_photos/Mulefinished01.jpg

http://i554.photobucket.com/albums/jj405/JayBee3_photos/Mulescalesa002.jpg

[razorsharp]

NICE filework

[phillipsted]

Another "In Between Mules" project for me this week. I found a really nice feather damascus blade from Grand Leavitt at Snake River Knives. This is some seriously beautiful stuff. I paired it with some old-growth red koa scales. You can't really see in the photo, but the koa is iridescent and has a lot of depth. I'm very happy with this one. The one thing that bugs me is the counterbore for the bolt heads. I didn't have the appropriate size counterbore bit for the 0.25" bolts, so the holes are a bit too big for the bolt heads. Oh well...

TedP

http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/PA245997-sm_zpsc7fe727f.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/PA245989-sm_zpsb7587077.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/PA246004-sm_zps8971b0da.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/PA246015-sm_zpsea189cac.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/PA245996-sm_zpsd29f031b.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/PA245991-sm_zpsf40089b1.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/PA246009-sm_zps19129c2f.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/PA245993-sm_zps9ac52541.jpg

[Pockets]

Thanks. I did it all with hand tools.

Here's the sheath I made this weekend, my first one too. Blade got scratched up from leftover kydex residue in the sheath but that's to be expected.

http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/9198/photo308wr.jpg

http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/108/photo311i.jpg

http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/4962/photo310u.jpg

Nice. You might want to make sure somehow that the knots don't come undone if that's how you plan to secure the sheath to yourself.

[Dietz]

Nice. You might want to make sure somehow that the knots don't come undone if that's how you plan to secure the sheath to yourself.

I've worn it quite a bit, walking/running in the woods and as an EDC, I purposely tried to get branches snagged on it and the knots didn't move. I got them super tight before cutting the extra paracord and melting the ends flat. I'm confident they won't come undone.

[Bladekeeper]

Nice damasteel philipstead i think that false edge really works .

[Mauru007]

Spyderco Mule Team 4 (ZDP-189), G10 jade green, glow in the dark.
http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/9119/img8059ht.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/405/img8059ht.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
http://img809.imageshack.us/img809/401/img8062l.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/809/img8062l.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

[DougB2]

Here's my Mule in CTS B75P. The scales are butterscotch paper micarta, yellow fiber liners, and micarta pins, held together with two-ton epoxy.
http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss147/spook89_89/MovingDay052.jpg
The micarta was a totally different color on the outside than on the inside once ground and polished, which the website mentioned. Not thrilled with the color, but I used what I had.
http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss147/spook89_89/MovingDay047.jpg
There were some "halos" around the holes. The micarta was 3/8" thick, and I ground some away. The halos mostly went away and smoothed out well.
http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss147/spook89_89/DSC04213.jpg
I used the yellow fiber liners because this Mule and my M390 didn't seem to be quite flat. The scales on the M390 had a gap at the front, so I took it apart to try again sometime. I epoxied the liners and scales and clamped them on tightly once the pins were through. It's held nicely for a few weeks.

[Dietz]

^^ I like the idea of micarta pins.

[DougB2]

^^ I like the idea of micarta pins.

This is the third time I've used micarta pins or tube. The large holes are roughly 3/8", they seem to vary in size depending on the Mule. Micarta pins are easier to work than the stainless corby bolts I like to use and they bring a different look. I think I need to do more work with them.

[xceptnl]

Another "In Between Mules" project for me this week. I found a really nice feather damascus blade from Grand Leavitt at Snake River Knives. This is some seriously beautiful stuff. I paired it with some old-growth red koa scales. You can't really see in the photo, but the koa is iridescent and has a lot of depth. I'm very happy with this one. The one thing that bugs me is the counterbore for the bolt heads. I didn't have the appropriate size counterbore bit for the 0.25" bolts, so the holes are a bit too big for the bolt heads. Oh well...

TedP



http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/PA245997-sm_zpsc7fe727f.jpg

Grand really has a great eye for beautiful patterns. I have a few examples of his work. Your handles are a really classy touch.

[Mauru007]

Syderco Mule Team 4, ZDP-189, custom hand made scales G10 jade green, glow in the dark.
http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/9119/img8059ht.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/405/img8059ht.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

[superspyder]

21080
21081

Here is one of my two mules, with green and black paracord handles and a sheath I made last night. Hopefully my other mule will soon be adorned with its carbon fiber handles.

[spyderedge]

Nice!

[Stew]

Getting ready for a Cruwear mule. Handle is going to be pure black Ebony up front and Yellow Mallee Burl behind.

Probably a red spacer between, although undecided right now.

http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/c100.0.403.403/p403x403/74776_295811567195338_693331292_n.jpg

I just love the fine eyes on Yellow Mallee. :D

http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/c100.0.403.403/p403x403/599881_297333857043109_162104026_n.jpg

[phillipsted]

I"m continuing to explore new woods and materials with my Mule handles. I've made it my unofficial objective to not repeat a wood or handle material for as long as I can - I'm amazed by the variety of natural and stabilized woods out there. I started collecting handle materials recently from Down Under - Australia has a ton of very interesting species that make great knife scales. Many of them are related to the very large family of trees known as eucalyptus - and the great thing is that eucalyptus trees are known for developing burls around their trunks. Stew is working on one in the post right above this one - Yellow Mallee. I can't wait to see how that one turns out, Stew!

Today, I'm posting my latest Mule, the B75P with Red Coolibah scales (just like in the lyrics to the song "Waltzing Matilda"). I love the bright red color and veining in the Coolibah. It is relatively hard and takes a very nice finish. On the downside, the wood is relatively chippy (you might see a few places around the screw holes that are bit rough). In addition, Coolibah often hides some gum pockets in between the grain, which makes finishing difficult. I sanded this set out to 1000 grit and let it sit for a few days to see if any gum seeped out. Then I finished it with two very thin coats of Tru-Oil and some gum did seep out at this point. I buffed it down with 0000 steel wool and finally topped it off with two coats of Renaissance Wax.

TedP

http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/2012-11-2109-02-49719-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/2012-11-2109-16-53548-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/2012-11-2109-15-03078-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/2012-11-2109-11-13269-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/2012-11-2109-09-48588-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/2012-11-2109-08-12638-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/2012-11-2109-19-17266-sm.jpg

[GnifeGnut]

Hi Ted,
Nice finish. I like the yellow streaks in that wood.

[Invective]

Well, I am terrible at computers and can't figure out how to embed so here are links to my CTS B75P Mule in Carbon Fiber Scales, done for me by Donald Smith of Gator Scales. I am not sure if I'm allowed to post links to his work, so PM me if you want his information, he does really great work in carbon fiber and is overall a stand-up guy. He let me design the scale and he built it and mounted it and I could not be happier with what he was able to do. Now on to the Mule.

http://imageshack.us/f/197/photo31n.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/f/201/photo32k.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/f/824/photo33gd.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/f/593/photo34j.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/f/28/photo35z.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/f/26/photo36fy.jpg/

I tried to model the front near the blade after the handle of the Techno as well, if you couldn't tell. I'll put up comparison pics later once my email decides it wants to work again.

[Holland]

Very nice scales ted, as usual. Those cf scales are beauties as well, i always like it when the back part of the handle is exposed

[phillipsted]

My latest project uses some really beautiful Claro Walnut mounted on a B75P Mule. I've been wanting to work with walnut for a while now. I remember working on some walnut rifle stocks when I was much younger - and the wood always seemed tough and handsome.

Well, these Claro Walnut scales certainly are tough and they are really pretty to look at. Overall, though, I didn't like working with it that much. The slabs I used were full of voids and pockets and occasionally they would just "pop" out and leave holes in the scale. The wood has a very pronounced and open grain, which required a lot of sealant to get polished. The results look nice, I think, but it wasn't that enjoyable to work with.

Also, sorry for the low quality of the pics - I got stuck without my camera today and was forced to rely on my webcam. The lighting doesn't really show the depth of the Walnut - it really is beautiful. I'll try and supplement a few better shots later.

TedP

http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/2012-12-1912-52-37770-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/2012-12-1912-58-32155-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/2012-12-1912-54-02194-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/2012-12-1913-17-51481-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/2012-12-1913-17-07728-sm.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/2012-12-1912-59-26799-sm.jpg

[Bladekeeper]

The grain looks nice I know the annoyance of the voids they can seem to take away that perfect finish I recently had a amboyna burl scale which I thought was stabilised and that had voids too.
Great work and a lovely looking set of scales voids n all.

[Sithus1966]

With black linen Micarta handles not yet finished. Won't be much contouring as it's only 3/16 thick stock. This is a blem, in the second picture you see the line in the blade near the CTS XHP, I think that's the grinding blemish.

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i69/Sithus1966/knives/Dscn0383.jpg

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i69/Sithus1966/knives/Dscn0384.jpg

[Bladekeeper]

Linen micarta is my favourite type done well in certain colours it can look very good nice job did you make the micarta yourself ? I made some denim micarta earlier this year but its not worthy of embellishing a mule .
Plus I blew up the first batch causing a great stink and mess :D

[French_Bulldog]

"This M4 mule has carbon fiber scales with bleu liners made by Brad Southard, who use to live close to Spyderco in Golden. The sheath is made by Werner Lüttecken – Fa. Kytac Tactical Gear"

But pictures say more than words.

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss59/french_bulldog_no1/Knives/Spyderco%20Mule%20M4/DSC_8166.jpg

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss59/french_bulldog_no1/Knives/Spyderco%20Mule%20M4/DSC_8165.jpg

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss59/french_bulldog_no1/Knives/Spyderco%20Mule%20M4/DSC_8137.jpg

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss59/french_bulldog_no1/Knives/Spyderco%20Mule%20M4/DSC_8163.jpg

[Gofannon]

I love your mule with carbon handles! Thanks to share

[French_Bulldog]

Thanks Geoffrey.

I'm thinking of buying the MT16 but I'm not sure.

[Holland]

"This M4 mule has carbon fiber scales with bleu liners made by Brad Southard, who use to live close to Spyderco in Golden. The sheath is made by Werner Lüttecken – Fa. Kytac Tactical Gear"

But pictures say more than words.


Wow! thats one of the best set ups ive seen!

[Bladekeeper]

Nice some parts of that cf look like basket weave great work did you do that yourself ? Good username too French bulldogs are a great breed but at the risk of causing confrontation have to state the name is misleading they were bred in England Nottingham, even the French acknowledge this any breed specific to France usually is preceded with the word chien an English breed brought to France and evolved is preceded by douge the French English word for dog this breed is known as bouledouge francais.

Edit : sorry its 5.12am not slept I see brad southard did the scales I should read the posts more thoroughly and I went well Ot on dogs ....oops

[French_Bulldog]

Nice some parts of that cf look like basket weave great work did you do that yourself ? Good username too French bulldogs are a great breed but at the risk of causing confrontation have to state the name is misleading they were bred in England Nottingham, even the French acknowledge this any breed specific to France usually is preceded with the word chien an English breed brought to France and evolved is preceded by douge the French English word for dog this breed is known as bouledouge francais.

Edit : sorry its 5.12am not slept I see brad southard did the scales I should read the posts more thoroughly and I went well Ot on dogs ....oops

Thanks for your reply.

My forumname is based on the fact that I own a French Bulldog for almost 11 years now.


http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss59/french_bulldog_no1/Duke%20French%20Bulldog/DSC_0268.jpg

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss59/french_bulldog_no1/Duke%20French%20Bulldog/DSC_0267.jpg

Thes were in his good days now he is very thin because of old age:(

[Bladekeeper]

He his a cracker I lost my bullmastiff in October at 10 she was a formidable guard dog and as gentle as a lamb with those who she trusted miss her everyday .
I considered a Frenchbulldog but don't have room for two and a guard dog is needed here its quite a rough area so I'm on the list for another bullmastiff when the time is right.
Beautiful dog my girl was fawn with black brindle very rare for the breed sorry for going off topic guys I'm going to get told off soon ;) .

[phillipsted]

Wow! Brad certainly did a great job with that blue-lined CF! Nicely done - almost too pretty to use! :rolleyes:

TedP

[Gofannon]

http://img4.hostingpics.net/pics/884128DSC06199.jpg

[Clip]

Natural G10 and blue liners? Any more pictures?

[Gofannon]

Natural G10 and blue liners? Any more pictures?
http://img4.hostingpics.net/pics/449432DSC06197.jpg
Sorry but I have only this bad picture.

Yes, natural G10 from halpern titanium with plastic blue liners homemade.
I hesitated a long time for the liners or not and for the color.

Do you like blue?
It could be nice with red or funny color like pink.

[Gofannon]

I have a question, how is it possible to make the G10 brighter?
Because it seems dull, melly and I have the same problem with the black G10 of my paramilitary.

[French_Bulldog]

Wow! Brad certainly did a great job with that blue-lined CF! Nicely done - almost too pretty to use! :rolleyes:

TedP

Thank you Ted! Don't think it will see much use I have other knive for that:D

[phillipsted]

This is my latest Mule project - I put some Karelian Birch scales on the new XHP Mule. I understand why so many Scandinavian knives use Birch for their scales - the material is drop-dead gorgeous, it is fantastic to work with, it is relatively light weight while being tough as nails. Great stuff. It worked very easily, responded well to shaping with files, and finished out nicely with sandpaper. It wasn't chippy or splintery - but you can probably see that there are several very voids in the dark spots. None of these voids caused any chip outs or other problems, and they sealed up nicely. I finished the birch with about 15 thin coats of Tru-Oil with a top coat of RenWax.

Cheers!
TedP

http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P1086245-sm_zps8a161dc7.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P1086245-sm_zps8a161dc7.jpg.html)
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P1086243-sm_zps59bcdab3.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P1086243-sm_zps59bcdab3.jpg.html)
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P1086241-sm_zpsafb6b49d.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P1086241-sm_zpsafb6b49d.jpg.html)
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P1086240-sm_zpse258e32a.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P1086240-sm_zpse258e32a.jpg.html)
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P1086254-sm_zpsb02529f3.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P1086254-sm_zpsb02529f3.jpg.html)
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P1086259-sm_zps6ce3ad63.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P1086259-sm_zps6ce3ad63.jpg.html)
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P1086260-sm_zpsed45b602.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P1086260-sm_zpsed45b602.jpg.html)
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P1086270-sm_zps7a12156b.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P1086270-sm_zps7a12156b.jpg.html)
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P1086271-sm_zpsd0cf18af.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P1086271-sm_zpsd0cf18af.jpg.html)

[jabba359]

Dang, Ted, that is some nice Birch! I may have to order some to try out on one of my mules.

[akaAK]

I have a question, how is it possible to make the G10 brighter?
Because it seems dull, melly and I have the same problem with the black G10 of my paramilitary.

Rub the G10 with mineral oil. Makes G10 look brand new. Mineral oil is also non-toxic and food safe.

[RoBoTech]

Wash it good with hot water and dish soap. Dry. Then soak it overnight with WD-40.
This works well, but for a better and longer lasting finish, wash AGAIN, and soak again for another night.
Then just use a lint free cloth to wipe it down and polish when you are done.

[Gofannon]

Rub the G10 with mineral oil. Makes G10 look brand new. Mineral oil is also non-toxic and food safe.


Wash it good with hot water and dish soap. Dry. Then soak it overnight with WD-40.
This works well, but for a better and longer lasting finish, wash AGAIN, and soak again for another night.
Then just use a lint free cloth to wipe it down and polish when you are done.

Thanks akaAK and RoBoTech, i'll try your tips!

[phillipsted]

Dang, Ted, that is some nice Birch! I may have to order some to try out on one of my mules.

Thanks, Jabba! I got this particular piece from Mark at Burl Source (http://www.burlsource.us) - who always has top-quality stuff. Make sure to look for "Karelian Birch" or "Masur Birch" - which have the interesting figure in the wood. Other birch scales can show plain figure, quilting, and curly figure - but only rarely burl patterns. You can find some good Birch at Thompsons Scandinavian Knives (http://thompsonsknives.com/birch.html) and on the 'Bay as well.

TedP

[karbon]

I've finally gotten some time to sneak some Mules into the mix... :)

Next is contoured carbon fiber with matte finish.

http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/6871/cfmule3dw5.jpg


http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/7681/cfmule2jx9.jpg


I just bought my first Mule (M390) and these are EXACTLY what I'm looking for in sides! I hope you can make me a set for the satin cf with a thin blue liner!!!

[Bladewacked]

This is my latest Mule project - I put some Karelian Birch scales on the new XHP Mule. I understand why so many Scandinavian knives use Birch for their scales - the material is drop-dead gorgeous, it is fantastic to work with, it is relatively light weight while being tough as nails. Great stuff. It worked very easily, responded well to shaping with files, and finished out nicely with sandpaper. It wasn't chippy or splintery - but you can probably see that there are several very voids in the dark spots. None of these voids caused any chip outs or other problems, and they sealed up nicely. I finished the birch with about 15 thin coats of Tru-Oil with a top coat of RenWax.

Cheers!
TedP

http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/P1086240-sm_zpse258e32a.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/P1086241-sm_zpsafb6b49d.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/P1086245-sm_zps8a161dc7.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/P1086243-sm_zps59bcdab3.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/P1086254-sm_zpsb02529f3.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/P1086259-sm_zps6ce3ad63.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/P1086260-sm_zpsed45b602.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/P1086270-sm_zps7a12156b.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/P1086271-sm_zpsd0cf18af.jpg

Absolutely stunning! :eek:

[Bladekeeper]

+ 1 on that I have a commission in birch looks nothing like that although I think its spalted beautiful wood though is there any reason you don't use liners ted .
I know some folk like the option of removing the scales which would make sense not a criticism but just curious.

[phillipsted]

Thanks for the compliments, Guys!

Bladekeeper, this particular species of Birch (often called "Karelian" or "Masur) frequently has this type of funky pattern in the grain. I've seen several different posts of why it happens, but nothing seems definitive. This was some of the best Birch I've seen in a long time, though...

As far as liners go - I have used them in the past - vulcanized material, G-10, GITD, even thin Micarta. I'm just not fond of the look. Nothing against it, I'm just a big fan of the wood itself. And since I'm creating these as a hobby, I focus mainly on finishing out the wood.

I generally make all my scales bolted and removable so that I can swap them out over time. One of these days, I may post a few of my older ones for trade/sale on K-BST since I'm starting to build up a collection of un-mounted Mule Scales in my drawer...

I'll be posting my newest Mule this weekend. It is the XHP with Camel Thorn scales, a leather lanyard and Spydie Bead. I hadn't used Camel Thorn before - very dense, oily and hard. It is an African desert Acacia species, related to Mulga and Arizona Ironwood. Interesting, and extremely beautiful stuff - I wish it was more widely available...

TedP

[Bladekeeper]

I read recently although couldn't say if this is the case that excessive burl patterns form when the tree cannot recover from the wound and is sick/dying .
I don't know if this is true but its my understanding a burl is caused by a wound/damage to the tree and forms a large growth over the damage.
If this is the case then I suppose the excessive burls are more expensive and rare as they kill the tree ?
This could be totally untrue it was a German site using a translation so sometimes a lot is misinterpreted lovely wood I recently brought some elm burl.
The quality is fantastic and is going on a spyderco woodcraft ill try and get it posted when its done.

[Bladekeeper]

Ted a source for this wood camel thorn direct from Africa africeye@gmail.com it may be more expensive to get but its in stock .
Just a thought ;) .
Looking at some info it seems virus, insect infestation can all cause such burls also as I presumed forcing can be done using sharp blades.
Although there doesn't seem to be any definitive reason its an interesting subject that would be worth looking into.
I have a staff from a peach tree it has a 720• twist which apparently took over 50 years to form its lovely I used it as a walking stick after I had a bad accident.
And was stopped all the time with folk asking where I got it it came from china I belive and I found it at a wood fete paid about 60$.

[phillipsted]

I just finished my latest XHP Mule this week. As noted in the postings above, this is Camel Thorn wood from southern Africa. This stuff is very dense, very hard, and very oily - I couldn't use the sander on it because the heat burned the wood, and I had to be careful with the drill press as well. I normally lean toward burl woods, but this figured grain is really deep and interesting. I exposed the thong hole in the back and attached a lanyard made from 3mm brown leather, capped off with a square Spydie bead and a diamond knot.

I also made some advancements in the scale attachment. The Amazon Supply site has a bunch of very small "bearing race" washers in very small sizes - and I found some 0.033" thick washers that snugly fit the 0.25" counterbored hole for the pivot bolts. It gives the handles a nice finished look.

Cheers!
TedP

http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/P1266282-sm_zps7a4a19e4.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/P1266306-sm_zps195a111d.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/P1266284-sm_zps4444180b.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/P1266304-sm_zpse4c6e249.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/P1266302-sm_zps98265f9c.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/P1266287-sm_zpsda4da877.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/P1266289-sm_zpsb3686354.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/P1266301-sm_zpse7bdb691.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/P1266309-sm_zps51c300c7.jpg

[JV3]

pair of cts-xhp:

http://i862.photobucket.com/albums/ab184/jayvelasco/spyderco/spyderco_pm2_mule_team_16_zps6e2846ef.jpg

[Holland]

pair of cts-xhp:

http://i862.photobucket.com/albums/ab184/jayvelasco/spyderco/spyderco_pm2_mule_team_16_zps6e2846ef.jpg

now u just need orange g10 handles for the mule ;)

[JV3]

now u just need orange g10 handles for the mule ;)

definitely! waiting for halpern titanium's site to go back up. i'm interested in the option 4 (similar to your orange one). yours fits flush with the tang (at least from the two pics in your sig/thread that i saw) - is this usually the case? i'm trying to decide whether to send it to a custom maker instead to get a good flush fit if that's not the case with halpern titanium.

[thurin]

definitely! waiting for halpern titanium's site to go back up. i'm interested in the option 4 (similar to your orange one).

I tried to order the orange scales for my mule about a month ago and they were out of stock. I went with the black option 5 for the time being. I need to call back and see if they have the orange again.

[JV3]

I tried to order the orange scales for my mule about a month ago and they were out of stock. I went with the black option 5 for the time being. I need to call back and see if they have the orange again.

they're back in stock - i ordered a set just now :)

[GTPowers]

they're back in stock - i ordered a set just now :)

Their site is down, did you call in? Simple process or am I going to a a receptionist who has no clue why I'm calling? :p

[thurin]

Their site is down, did you call in? Simple process or am I going to a a receptionist who has no clue why I'm calling? :p

Simple and painless to call them to order. Took a few minutes to place the order and they showed up a couple days later.

Here's what the Option 5 Ultra Slim Black look like (with a sheath from SheathPro):
http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u671/thurin_/MuleScales2_zps9272261c.png

[Bladekeeper]

Anybody have an idea on how difficult it is to add file work to a mule I asked somebody who was scaling one for me and suggested it'd be difficult owing to the hardness.
Any suggested methods of doing so I'm thinking regular jimping but my OCD means it'd have to be very tidy and conform to the lines .
Also would it be too much to do with files by hand ?
I'm no maker so apologise if its a noob style question .

[JV3]

Their site is down, did you call in? Simple process or am I going to a a receptionist who has no clue why I'm calling? :p

i called and the person knew exactly what i was looking for (option 4 orange g10).

[Holland]

Simple and painless to call them to order. Took a few minutes to place the order and they showed up a couple days later.

Here's what the Option 5 Ultra Slim Black look like (with a sheath from SheathPro):

very nice and simple

[phillipsted]

Anybody have an idea on how difficult it is to add file work to a mule I asked somebody who was scaling one for me and suggested it'd be difficult owing to the hardness.
Any suggested methods of doing so I'm thinking regular jimping but my OCD means it'd have to be very tidy and conform to the lines .
Also would it be too much to do with files by hand ?
I'm no maker so apologise if its a noob style question .

I had the same question and talked to a gentleman who does file work all the time on hardened steel knife spines. He uses a set of diamond needle files and a lot of patience. I've been meaning to try this on an old "beater" Mule to see how it looks.

Please post some pictures if you try it!

TedP

[Pockets]

If you practice filing and have good tools and a vise to secure the blade, it could come out ok.

[Bladekeeper]

I'm thinking of trying it on a woodcraft sv30 ted as I've been messed about with the wood it arrived Not stabilised despite paying for it to be done.
It's a necessity where I am so if I get it done ill post some thanks for the info ted + pockets I'm thinking maybe some strong tape where I'm starting , get the file to bite then follow in for symmetry .

[ChapmanPreferred]

I contacted Rick Marchand of Wildertools about the potential of doing one of his most excellent chord wraps over leather handles. He agreed. This was an unusual request for Rick and he explained for the finished product to come out right he would have to modify the butt of the knife. I agreed and here is the result. To make this even more unusual Rick refused to accept payment for this job. I am extremely humbled by his generousity and thankful for his skills. I'm not certain Rick would choose to take this kind of work again. I know he is very focused on his custom works of art. All I can say is a huge Thank you!

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp35/dczippo/Spydercos/Mules/IMG_6845.jpg

Next one was handled and kydex built by Tom Krein.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp35/dczippo/Spydercos/Mules/IMG_6840.jpg

He also did a Bushcraft blank for me at the same time.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp35/dczippo/Spydercos/Mules/IMG_6839.jpg

Two Mules together.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp35/dczippo/Spydercos/Mules/IMG_6854.jpg

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp35/dczippo/Spydercos/Mules/IMG_6852.jpg

[ChapmanPreferred]

Here's one I did with some free Babinga wood, some old damaged Easton arrows and epoxy. :)

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp35/dczippo/Spydercos/Free%20Wood/IMG_6279.jpg

Some of the white buffing compound from the loose buff was still around the shafts/pins which later I wiped off the scales.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp35/dczippo/Spydercos/Free%20Wood/IMG_6277.jpg

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp35/dczippo/Spydercos/Free%20Wood/IMG_6271.jpg

W/ blue tarp backdrop.
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp35/dczippo/Spydercos/Free%20Wood/IMG_6280.jpg

[Bladekeeper]

Chapman preferred is that the uk bushcraft ? A rare beastie I tried to get one but came across the woodcraft which I couldn't refuse.
That is my current project elm burl , mosaic pins and hopefully extra jimping , those are some nice mules the kydex sheaths look very well built.
Also its difficult to zoom in using this I pod are the scales micarta or g10 they look like micarta but hard to see as it just blurs when I zoom in.
Damn I pod.

[ChapmanPreferred]

Bladekeeper,
That was a blade blank (no scales) that was offered for sale when the Bushcraft model was first released. The blank is the same as the current production G10 version and the original wooden handled version. Tom's scales are not as contoured as the production verions, but it is still really comfortable. The textured finish Tom used on theses black and blue G10 scales makes for a grippy handle. I had been admiring Tom's work on Mule handles for a long time before I sent mine out to him.

[phillipsted]

That is really a beautiful set of blades you have there, Chapman. And yes, I'm extremely jealous of your custom Bushcraft! Tom did a really nice job.

I was looking at the photos of Rick's cordwrap job and was very impressed. I really like the attention to detail and the Turks Head knot by the choil. Do you know:

- what type of cord he used?
- how he built up the contour under the top wrapping of cord?
- what type of glue/finish he used to seal the cord?

Just curious - it is a great looking blade! :)

TedP

[Pockets]

That is the most interesting cord wrap I have ever seen.

[ChapmanPreferred]

Hi TedP,
The only thing he mentioned in our communications about the job was that he personally created the string used in the Turks Head knot from grasses that grow in his front yard in the summer. If I had to guess, he probably used hemp string/twine/rope...but that is simply a guess.

Best wishes,
Doug

[thurin]

Wow CP! Those are some awesome Mules and Bushcraft!

Question for you and Ted: How do you go about finishing the wood and making them fit the blank that close? Are you finishing it on the blank?

[ChapmanPreferred]

Thank you thurin. Two very talented folks did the first two Mules and Bushcraft that I posted above.

Yes, I finished the wood scales while they were on the Mule. There was a brilliant "how to" or build along on a Bushcraft a while ago that really shows you the steps to do an excellent job. It was all done with hand tools as far as I can recall. If I can find that post I will provide the link.

Cheers,
Doug

[phillipsted]

Wow CP! Those are some awesome Mules and Bushcraft!

Question for you and Ted: How do you go about finishing the wood and making them fit the blank that close? Are you finishing it on the blank?

I drill the wood and temporarily pin it together with 3/16" steel pins then outline the blank on the wood with a Sharpie. Then I cut the wood to approximately the right shape, contour it, and rough sand it before it goes on the Mule for final fitting. I usually do a lot of polishing on the edges of the Mule tang because they come from the factory with a lot of machining marks - and I do this before the final fitting. I do almost all my work with hand tools - coping saw, carving files, arbor press, sandpaper - the exception being the drill press. I'm not doing high-volume production work - and I like the "therapeutic" aspects of working with my hands. :cool:

At this point, the final fitting is pretty easy - I put the almost-completed scales on the Mule (having counterbored the scales for the screw heads) and slowly work down the last bit of wood to the tang. I use very high grits of sandpaper here and by the time the wood gets flush with the tang, I'm polishing out the tang too. I normally sand out to 1000 or 1500 grit to get a good polish. Make sure to take your time and sand out all the blemishes before moving to the next higher grit - I like to use a jeweler's loupe to look over the wood before moving on each time.

Does this answer your question, Thurin?

TedP

[thurin]

Thanks Doug and Ted. Great Info. Time to find some pretty wood and give it a shot.

Nathan

[ChapmanPreferred]

I found the link but it is on another forum so no link posted. PM me if you would like a link to that thread. It will require you join that forum to see it.

[ChapmanPreferred]

Found it locally. :)

This is primarily about shaping handle scales rather than building them but once you get to this point...
http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?44349-Spyderco-Bushcraft-Handle-Tutorial&highlight=bushcraft

...this is a really excellent thread in my opinion on how to crack on.

[Bladekeeper]

It'd be interesting if hemp grew in his garden its the by product of the male marihuana plant which doesn't contain enough psychoactive THC to be classed as the same as the drug found in the female plant.
Interestingly an acre of hemp produces 10x as much paper and rope as an acre of trees the declaration of independance was written on hemp too.

[thurin]

Found it locally. :)

This is primarily about shaping handle scales rather than building them but once you get to this point...
http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?44349-Spyderco-Bushcraft-Handle-Tutorial&highlight=bushcraft

...this is a really excellent thread in my opinion on how to crack on.

Thanks for the thread. Those are some nice looking handles. A lot of work goes into it. I have a pretty good set of files that my father gave me a couple decades ago that I'll have to dust off and put to good use.

[ChapmanPreferred]

Bladekeeper,
No, I believe he purchased the Hemp cordage but the grass cordage of the Turks head knot is the material that comes from his yard.
Cheers,
Doug

[Bladekeeper]

Oh ok sorry I think its a great material but is stigmatised yet is much more productive in its yield for paper etc but I asked as I'd imagine he'd have had trouble.
Here in the uk in the Home Counties like Kent its grown commercially and is such a versatile product everything can be used.
The seeds traditionally are used in bird food but recently have had some lovely hemp seed flapjacks .
Gone OT again sorry.

[DeAdEyE956]

My 2 first attempts at making knife scales. I have some work to do.
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc290/GetBent_08/20130206_112032_zpsfe7de70c.jpg

[Bladekeeper]

Can't see too much to worry about some refinements and practice and your there me I can produce some very nice wood work but other than that I'm useless.
Partly I need tools but I'd never reach the level some of the guys here have got to in a hundred years good work for your first two.

[JV3]

messing around with my first kydex sheaths...still need trimming.

http://i862.photobucket.com/albums/ab184/jayvelasco/spyderco/mule_team/kydex_prototypes_zpsaabd2ac5.jpg

http://i862.photobucket.com/albums/ab184/jayvelasco/spyderco/mule_team/mule_team_prototype_kydex_zps8bf51dad.jpg

[farmerleader]

my first mule, with some pimpin works

http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n631/bugsykepik/tasman1_zpsfe6e4a72.jpg
http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n631/bugsykepik/g-1_zps9ad287f6.jpg

[phillipsted]

Looks nice, farmerleader! The GITD logo looks fantastic.

Welcome to the forum!

TedP

[xceptnl]

http://25.media.tumblr.com/7b8f0eb68ffa72a34138252b897a0c2c/tumblr_mi2hogoJCg1rsbaybo1_1280.jpg

http://24.media.tumblr.com/0ff5e7a7276ffd61c4c65f24950cadab/tumblr_mi2hogoJCg1rsbaybo3_1280.jpg

[Bladekeeper]

Farmerleader that gitd sheath is awesome also what is that patch from ? An Indonesian forum nice work especially that sheath very cool.

[farmerleader]

Looks nice, farmerleader! The GITD logo looks fantastic.

Welcome to the forum!

TedP


Farmerleader that gitd sheath is awesome also what is that patch from ? An Indonesian forum nice work especially that sheath very cool.

thanks. the patch is PVC GID. we have a lots if spyde fanatics here at indonesian blades.

[JV3]

i'm starting to really like cts-xhp over my s30v and vg10 knives :)

http://i862.photobucket.com/albums/ab184/jayvelasco/spyderco/mule_team/mule_team_cardboard_feathersticks_01_zpsbc92cef4.j pg

http://i862.photobucket.com/albums/ab184/jayvelasco/spyderco/mule_team/mule_team_cardboard_feathersticks_02_zpsf43ee219.j pg

[JV3]

http://i862.photobucket.com/albums/ab184/jayvelasco/spyderco/clear_sheath_mule_team_bushcraft_zpsff1796da.jpg

[phillipsted]

Finished my latest set of Mule scales this evening. These are in stablilized snakeskin sycamore bolted to an M390 Mule. This material was very finicky to work with - it was very chippy and tended to want to split along grain lines. The wood was also lightly spalted, which you can see in some of the shots - and the spalting wanted to rip out as well. I had to resort to CA glue to reattach several chips, but because of the nature of the grain, you can hardly see them now. These were sanded down to 1200 grit, then finished with 5 thin coats of Tru-Oil and a top coat of Renaissance Wax.

TedP

http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P2186318-sm_zps970add3b.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P2186318-sm_zps970add3b.jpg.html)
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P2186314-sm_zpse0787f19.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P2186314-sm_zpse0787f19.jpg.html)
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P2186324-sm_zps465090c8.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P2186324-sm_zps465090c8.jpg.html)
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P2186326-sm_zpsb2092303.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P2186326-sm_zpsb2092303.jpg.html)
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P2186327-sm_zpsb6c1a313.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P2186327-sm_zpsb6c1a313.jpg.html)
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P2186328-sm_zps83c3b320.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P2186328-sm_zps83c3b320.jpg.html)
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P2186337-sm_zpsd49f5966.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P2186337-sm_zpsd49f5966.jpg.html)
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P2186338-sm_zps47e42bf2.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P2186338-sm_zps47e42bf2.jpg.html)
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P2186346-sm_zps4c78c712.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P2186346-sm_zps4c78c712.jpg.html)

[Bladekeeper]

Good job ted you can see the spalted sections trying to pop well saved Barr that it is a nice looking wood .

[phillipsted]

Thanks for the compliment, Bladekeeper. I would really like to have seen this slab before it was stabilized - you can see where the resin penetrated and hardened the grain and the spalted areas. It would probably have been unusable before it was stabilized. I think parts of the scales look almost like fossilized mammoth.

Cheers!
TedP

[Powdercommander]

2152721531 1st try. Gift for a friend. Need to touch up CF and need to figure out how to polish/finish the bolts and CF.

When last I posted a pic, I was able to have it appear in the thread and not as a link. Any idea how I did that?

[Bladekeeper]

Thanks for the compliment, Bladekeeper. I would really like to have seen this slab before it was stabilized - you can see where the resin penetrated and hardened the grain and the spalted areas. It would probably have been unusable before it was stabilized. I think parts of the scales look almost like fossilized mammoth.

Cheers!
TedP

Possibly bad seasoning maybe dried too quick although from what I have been told spalted wood has a tendency towards problems adjusting to temp changes.
The spalted maple being the most common problem wood I wanted it for my woodcraft but was advised against it as I live in a cold area of the uk.
I see what you mean the mammoth that has the stag like pattern , I have a custom pukko being built by EDF knives a maker from holland.
His work can be seen on badlands forum but its in German the mammoth in this knife is plain white with the grey/black pitting.

[phillipsted]

Here is my latest Mule project. I've had an older ZDP-189 Mule stuck in my queue for a while. It is one of the first run of MT-04 blades with the extremely hard heat treat. I decided to put a set of stabilized rock maple burl scales on it. It was down to the very end of the job - I had to do the final fit out of the bolts then finish out the trim on the tang and polish it up.

When I was inserting the middle bolt, the holes must have been slightly misaligned. PING! :eek: The handle broke clean in two across the tang - right through the bolt hole. It almost sounded like glass cracking, it was so brittle. It was totally my fault -I wasn't paying attention. Even though I wasn't exerting that much pressure, and I had reamed the scales and tang previously, I thought there was enough clearance. I caught it with just the right amount of force at exactly the right place...and PING! Just goes to show you how much of a tradeoff you have to make to get blades into the upper hardness ranges!

Anyway, I went ahead and assembled the knife - I figured it can at least look nice in my display cabinet. I polished the maple out to 1000 grit and since it was nicely stabilized, I just added a top coat of Ren Wax and called it a day.

TedP

http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P3036362-sm_zps27c79a02.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P3036362-sm_zps27c79a02.jpg.html)
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P3036351-sm_zpsa91a2ca6.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P3036351-sm_zpsa91a2ca6.jpg.html)
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P3036374-sm_zps1f9d9b09.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P3036374-sm_zps1f9d9b09.jpg.html)
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P3036372-sm_zps084e3a07.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P3036372-sm_zps084e3a07.jpg.html)
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P3036368-sm_zpse6514edb.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P3036368-sm_zpse6514edb.jpg.html)
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P3036367-sm_zps392a64c4.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P3036367-sm_zps392a64c4.jpg.html)
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P3036359-sm_zps4fd51ffd.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P3036359-sm_zps4fd51ffd.jpg.html)
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P3036355-sm_zps009d3178.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P3036355-sm_zps009d3178.jpg.html)
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P3036349-sm_zpsbd392e45.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P3036349-sm_zpsbd392e45.jpg.html)

[jabba359]

Sorry to hear it cracked on you.:( I still have my ZDP Mule in the box, waiting for scales. I'll make sure to be extra careful when I finally make some!

Speaking of making Mule scales, I haven't been able to make any for about a year and a half now, due to not having a garage or yard where I could make a bunch of dust. I finally found a new room for rent this past week that has garage space as well as a yard, so I can finally pull my tools out of storage and start making stuff again. I'm really excited to get back to making scales, as I've had a concept for my Super Blue Mule for the last year that I've wanted to try out, so that will be my first project. Hopefully I'll have some pictures soon!

[Bladekeeper]

Nice scales ted shame about that crack but I'd be tempted to chip a little off and see what the RC stands at .
If its above then maybe it wasn't entirely your fault.
No offence meant your skills surpass mine ten fold , but was it very cold whilst you were working on it ?.
I know your probably more than aware of all the variables just curiosity really.
I am still waiting on my woodcraft lost the use of my leg recently hopefully not permanent but I'm also waiting on somebody else.
Given they are ill too then I'd rather wait a year than ask again I just hope he gets better he is one of life's good guys.
Beautiful scales T and a display piece I'd be happy to have but my OCD would go crazy :D .

[phillipsted]

The original MT-04 blades were released at around 67 hardness. Spyderco re-treated a portion of the run to a more "optimal" HRC (64-65) and offered both for a period of time (around Dec 2009). You can check out the original thread here (http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?41088-ZDP-189-Mule-Team-MT04P-Updated&highlight=zdp+mule+hardness).

Tom Krein supposedly broke two of the hard MT-04s when attempting to insert pins (exactly what I was doing when it broke). So I guess I'm in good company! :cool:

TedP

[Bladekeeper]

Great company indeed , and you know it struck me you could fill the crack with GITD powder etc then it'll look intentional ;) .
I am a nightmare with my collection pieces if one gets scratched out comes the kit to clean it up OCD is not fun it wasn't as bad.
But since I started collecting remember a vallatton here is $319 its got out of control" but its all relative to wealth "some folk say nope if I had billions it'd still bug the hell out of me.

[JV3]

triplets.

http://i862.photobucket.com/albums/ab184/jayvelasco/spyderco/mule_team/3_mules_02_zpse984597d.jpg

[phillipsted]

Well, here is my latest Mule project. I've been looking for the *right* piece of Amboyna burl for a while now. I finally found the one I was looking for from Mark at BurlSource - nice two-toned coloring, not too many inclusions or cracks, lots of figure... Good stuff. I paired the Amboyna with a B75P Mule and some thin red liners. The Amboyna was a little bit of a challenge, like a lot of burls. The grain is all over the place and I kept getting tearouts and popped eyes that needed to be mended with CA glue. It all came together in the end though. I sanded down to 1000 grit and finished with Olie's Oil, which I've never used before. It is a proprietary mixture, but it appears to be a combination of polymerized oils and wax. You apply it thin, let it set for a day, wipe off the excess and let it cure for three days. I topped it with some Ren wax and a good buffing.

TedP

http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P5016559-sm_zps23fd6514.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P5016559-sm_zps23fd6514.jpg.html)
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P5016552-sm_zpsc6e4a2e1.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P5016552-sm_zpsc6e4a2e1.jpg.html)
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P5016553-sm_zps959de9fe.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P5016553-sm_zps959de9fe.jpg.html)
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P5016554-sm_zps919630c1.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P5016554-sm_zps919630c1.jpg.html)
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P5016556-sm_zps7bf59adb.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P5016556-sm_zps7bf59adb.jpg.html)
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P5016560-sm_zps41ec462d.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P5016560-sm_zps41ec462d.jpg.html)
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P5016566-sm_zps4076de8d.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P5016566-sm_zps4076de8d.jpg.html)
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P5016571-sm_zps25f4e8b4.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P5016571-sm_zps25f4e8b4.jpg.html)
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/phillipsted61/Spydies/P5016574-sm_zps07be9387.jpg (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/phillipsted61/media/Spydies/P5016574-sm_zps07be9387.jpg.html)

[Bladekeeper]

That is top drawer Ted and liners too much more refined IMO .
Is the separate tone new burl growth ?.
Really nice I have one amboyna knife and it has voids although they don't show on pics.
Loving that one :).

Edit: why does predictive text always put if instead of Of and living instead of loving grr predicted wrong .

[mattman]

That's a nice one Ted! Loving that piece of burl!

[OldSarSwmr]

Great looking scales, Ted. That Amboyna has great character.

[GnifeGnut]

Looks great Ted! I like the red liners. Your fit and finish is improving.

[Ferris Wheels]

We have to be getting close to the release of the next mule team!

[Kohbanang]

Hey Ted thanks alot for sharing your knives.Awesome pics and scales!!!

[Skidoosh]

http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag71/mark_wood2/cts-xhp_zps040050c6.jpg
CTS-XHP Mule, first try worked pretty well

[phillipsted]

Nicely done, Skidoosh! It looks like you've got a red liner on there - very classy. And what kind of wood is that? Box Elder? Buckeye? How is it finished?

Could you show us a couple more shots? :)

TedP

[Skidoosh]

Ted, You've given me plenty of inspiration. I'll try to get a few more shots up tomorrow, I had a problem getting them to post. I can get the link but not the full pic. The wood is spalted maple burl. I sanded it down to about 800 and then finished with danish oil, about six coats and wax. I've got another in green micarta that isn't quite finished yet.

[JAYJAY]

Man i want a Mule Team so bad and cant seem to find one if anyone knows where i can get one please message me

[jabba359]

Man i want a Mule Team so bad and cant seem to find one if anyone knows where i can get one please message me

Spyderco makes runs of about 400-1000 at a time (different steel every time). They are currently between runs, so keep an eye on the forum and usually we get a two week notice when the next one in due. If you need one right now, eBay is probably your best bet (though at inflated prices).

[phillipsted]

Hey, Jayjay! Welcome to the Forum!

I just sent you a PM - one of our favorite internet retailers has one available on their web site. If you can't wait for the new K390 to hit the street, this would be your best bet.

TedP

[Bladekeeper]

Man i want a Mule Team so bad and cant seem to find one if anyone knows where i can get one please message me

Where are you if your in Europe I can help if your stateside I can help but uk prices are very expensive .

[JAYJAY]

I am in the US thanks tho

[JLS]

I finally finished up a couple of handles and thought I'd show my stable of Mules. This has been an amazing project from Spyderco that I really appreciate; it was the Mules that revitalized my interest in Spyderco.

The whole gang is here (less the "Woodcraft Mule" that's just not the same) and some are even here multiple times. There is one hole in the group and that spot is reserved for the CTS-204P Mule. Each one is unique and it's been a lot of fun working with the different materials and tweaking each handle for different characteristics. Most I would do over the same as they are and a few I would change if I could do them over again...but I'm quite happy to leave them and learn and grow as a result. The sharp eyed among the group will notice that the XHP Mule is wearing modified Halpern Titanium scales. They're not permanent, but I just haven't seen the "right" set of ironwood scales for it yet. All are EDC users, with the exception of the ZDP-189 Mule. That one gets used for cutting, but never really leaves the workshop and gets babied. All started with .250"-.270" thick material for scales, except as noted below. I tried some .375" at one point and didn't care for it personally; it's just a bit too round for my taste. The thinner ones have their place, but 1/4" just strikes a nice balance for EDC convenience and comfort when cutting.

I really hope everyone enjoys these fine knives as they were intended and thank you to Sal, Eric and everyone at Spyderco for all their hard work and dedication to this project.

Please forgive the lousy pictures. Photography is not one of my strengths.

From left to right:
MT01 - Black G-10 and brown canvas Micarta w/ tan Micarta pins
MT02 - Tan G-10, .125" thick, w/ SS blind pins
MT03 - Blue G-10 w/ SS tube fittings
MT04 - Yellow G-10 and Carbon Fiber w/ SS pins
MT05 - Blue stabilized wood w/ brass pins
MT05 - White G-7 w/ SS pins
MT05 - Spalted Hackberry w/ nickel silver pins
MT06 - Green canvas Micarta w/SS pins
MT07 - Lacewood w/ SS blind pins (couldn't bring myself to interrupt the pattern of the wood
MT08 - Crosscut Koa w/ SS blind pins (see note above)
MT08 - Brown canvas Micarta, .188" thick w/ brass pins (the kitchen Mule)
MT09 - Black walnut w/ brass pins
MT10 - Black paper Micarta w/ SS pins
MT10 - Spalted Alder, .200" thick w/ brass pins,
MT11 - Tan/Cream G-10 w/ SS blind pins
MT12 - Brown linen Micarta w/ Brass pins
MT13 - Bocote w/ brass pins
MT14 - Patience is a virture, right?
MT15 - Olive G-10 w/ nickel silver pins
MT16 - Modified Halpern Titanium Grey G-10 scales

http://i381.photobucket.com/albums/oo257/jlsen/DSCI1129_zpsa1288a6c.jpg (http://s381.photobucket.com/user/jlsen/media/DSCI1129_zpsa1288a6c.jpg.html)

Mules 1-5 closeup
http://i381.photobucket.com/albums/oo257/jlsen/DSCI1130_zps3caefc65.jpg (http://s381.photobucket.com/user/jlsen/media/DSCI1130_zps3caefc65.jpg.html)

Mules 6-10 closeup
http://i381.photobucket.com/albums/oo257/jlsen/DSCI1133_zps61092798.jpg (http://s381.photobucket.com/user/jlsen/media/DSCI1133_zps61092798.jpg.html)

Mules 11-16 closeup
http://i381.photobucket.com/albums/oo257/jlsen/DSCI1137_zps4d68c824.jpg (http://s381.photobucket.com/user/jlsen/media/DSCI1137_zps4d68c824.jpg.html)

Mules 1-5 topview
http://i381.photobucket.com/albums/oo257/jlsen/DSCI1138_zpse450710c.jpg (http://s381.photobucket.com/user/jlsen/media/DSCI1138_zpse450710c.jpg.html)

Mules 6-10 topview
http://i381.photobucket.com/albums/oo257/jlsen/DSCI1140_zps4b134eab.jpg (http://s381.photobucket.com/user/jlsen/media/DSCI1140_zps4b134eab.jpg.html)

Mules 11-16 topview
http://i381.photobucket.com/albums/oo257/jlsen/DSCI1142_zpse179a1c9.jpg (http://s381.photobucket.com/user/jlsen/media/DSCI1142_zpse179a1c9.jpg.html)

[polyhexamethyl]

sorry JLS, i hate you now :D

serious, i'm really jealous! you got a beautiful collection there!

[Pockets]

I like the yellow/carbon fiber one with the holes in it the best. Great collection!

[xceptnl]

Josh, those pictures are terrific. Thank you for sharing.

[JLS]

sorry JLS, i hate you now :D
serious, i'm really jealous! you got a beautiful collection there!

Thank you, it's a marathon collecting these Mules. You're part of a large group of people that don't like me, but most people have a better reason that you! You should update your signature too. We need MT14 AND MT17 to drop!


I like the yellow/carbon fiber one with the holes in it the best. Great collection!

Thanks. That ZDP handle was a long time coming due to the extremely limited numbers of the blade; I wanted something that would look good even if it wasn't going to get used real hard. I don't normally do bright colors on knives, but I really like the yellow on this and it makes the carbon fiber weave on the surface really pop.


Josh, those pictures are terrific. Thank you for sharing.

Thanks, but the pictures are pretty lousy compared to many on here. I wish I could do justice to the knives, but I lack the ambition and know-how for photography. It really is a pleasure to share on this forum; there's a very good group here. I don't really say much, but I do enjoy reading and occasionally contributing a little bit.

[phillipsted]

Hey, JLS - that is quite a "labor of love" you have there. Beautiful stuff!

Question about the pinless designs. Did you use hidden pins or some other mechanical fastener - or just epoxy to hold them? I love the look...

TedP

[Holland]

amazing mules jls! i especially like your MT4

[JLS]

Hey, JLS - that is quite a "labor of love" you have there. Beautiful stuff!

Question about the pinless designs. Did you use hidden pins or some other mechanical fastener - or just epoxy to hold them? I love the look...

TedP

Those are high compliments coming from you, Ted; thank you very much. I really do find it fun and while I've settled on a few favorite points, I still can't say that I have a pattern to them. Each one is a bit different in materials, contour and cosmetics. If I lined them up in the order they were done, you'd see some trends as my tastes evolve.

The "pinless" ones all have either two or three 1/4" long 3/16" diameter pins that engage the scales and blade for rotational references and then are epoxied on. Some wood is just too pretty to mess up.

[JLS]

Hey, JLS - that is quite a "labor of love" you have there. Beautiful stuff!

Question about the pinless designs. Did you use hidden pins or some other mechanical fastener - or just epoxy to hold them? I love the look...

TedP

Those are high compliments coming from you, Ted; thank you very much. I really do find it fun and while I've settled on a few favorite points, I still can't say that I have a pattern to them. Each one is a bit different in materials, contour and cosmetics. If I lined them up in the order they were done, you'd see some trends as my tastes evolve.

The "pinless" ones all have either two or three 1/4" long 3/16" diameter pins that engage the scales and blade for rotational references and then are epoxied on. Some wood is just too pretty to mess up.


amazing mules jls! i especially like your MT4

Thanks. The ZDP is about the most recent and was a lot of fun, but a bit nerve-racking considering all the cracked ones. Mine is still in one piece! Also, carbon fiber is beautiful, but not much fun to work with.