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Nice work. Thinking outside the box.

The original post on this thread made reference to reprofiling the serrations to make them less of a point, how was this achieved?

RugerNurse wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 20, 2024 9:24 am

The original post on this thread made reference to reprofiling the serrations to make them less of a point, how was this achieved?

It will happen over time anyway just from sharpening...

Wartstein wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 20, 2024 10:30 am

RugerNurse wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 20, 2024 9:24 am

The original post on this thread made reference to reprofiling the serrations to make them less of a point, how was this achieved?

It will happen over time anyway just from sharpening...

Thanks. I might try the salt 2 black blade in serrations. I had the Dragonfly serrated but didn’t care for it. The points were very pointy. Maybe I can reduce the tips a bit

RugerNurse wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 20, 2024 10:35 am

Wartstein wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 20, 2024 10:30 am

RugerNurse wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 20, 2024 9:24 am

The original post on this thread made reference to reprofiling the serrations to make them less of a point, how was this achieved?

It will happen over time anyway just from sharpening...

Thanks. I might try the salt 2 black blade in serrations. I had the Dragonfly serrated but didn’t care for it. The points were very pointy. Maybe I can reduce the tips a bit

I had a Rockjumper and a Leafjumper in SE... can't exactly recall concerning the RJs serrations, but the LJs were really NOT pointy... and it's a great knife and VG10 a great steel for teeth imo...

Endela SE is another good choice for what you are looking for.

My Salt 2 SE definitely is "pointier".

An endela salt would be fantastic. The Atlantic model seems good too in serrations although they look a bit pointy also

My suggestion is to try a Rockjumper. I don't see how you can go wrong for 60 bucks.

Sharpening a Spyderedge on the Sharpmaker will gradually round the points. What I have observed after reprofiling a bunch of SE knives to 15 degrees is that the degree of rounding is highly dependent upon the type of steel. My H-1, LC200N, and VG-10 blades rounded much more on their journey to 15 degrees (on the CBN rods) than did my K390 bladed Endura.

Even a modest rounding of the points yields a positive improvement in cutting performance.

The self rounding seems to occour only if the starting DPS is higher than the final DPS while reprofiling.
On my UKPK the original DPS was under 15° and I did not get rounder points, maybe even the opposide. First I thought, I did something wrong, but EvilD got the same effect on one of his SE knives, that had a lower original DPS. And he had a lot of experience with sharpening SE at that point.

Bill1170 wrote: ↑

Thu Feb 22, 2024 2:39 am

Sharpening a Spyderedge on the Sharpmaker will gradually round the points. What I have observed after reprofiling a bunch of SE knives to 15 degrees is that the degree of rounding is highly dependent upon the type of steel. My H-1, LC200N, and VG-10 blades rounded much more on their journey to 15 degrees (on the CBN rods) than did my K390 bladed Endura.

Even a modest rounding of the points yields a positive improvement in cutting performance.

Was reprofiling the k390 Endura worth it? Did you see a difference in performance? I have an Endela in the same steel and am considering going down to 15.

Now if only I could get my hands on a straight spine SE Stretch in k390!

Senfkarte wrote: ↑

Thu Feb 22, 2024 5:32 am

The self rounding seems to occour only if the starting DPS is higher than the final DPS while reprofiling.
On my UKPK the original DPS was under 15° and I did not get rounder points, maybe even the opposide. First I thought, I did something wrong, but EvilD got the same effect on one of his SE knives, that had a lower original DPS. And he had a lot of experience with sharpening SE at that point.

All my serration reprofiling efforts were undertaken to reduce the DPS on the scalloped side from factory to 15 degrees. The biggest final shape difference was down to wear resistance and the most wear-resistant steel (K390) retained the pointiest points. It also took the longest time by far to reach 15 degrees.

What have been peoples experiences regarding lc200n vs H2 serrations?

RugerNurse wrote: ↑

Sat Feb 24, 2024 5:49 pm

What have been peoples experiences regarding lc200n vs H2 serrations?

There is not really an answer to your question, cause what kind/shape/pattern of serrations can be grind into a given blade is not dictated by if the steel is LC or H2...

The real difference here is the hollow grind of the H2 blades vs the ffg of the LC blades, but that difference is a general one and there for PE as well (significant here for me personally: Tip on H1/H2 blades a lot stronger, but also less acute. So can be a pro or con, depending on what task is done or on which property one prefers).

They say though that "teeth" in H1/H2 can be particularily hard due to some "work hardening" process that happens when grinding serrations into that particular steel. Still a bit mysterious to me though.

So if I’m reading this right lc200n or vg10 are recommended for those getting into SE blades? Rockjumper or leafjumper?. Every time I attempt to buy an SE knife I end up getting plain edge. I have bad memories of sharpening a SE/PE tanto knife. The multiple bevels and the SE area made it a pain. Plus it was made of the cheap steel that was stamped stainless made in _____. So I’m thinking my step back into the SE world needs to be a good one. Would use for EDC type activities including yard work, hiking, camp fire starting, box cutting, cord cutting, whittling, etc…

VandymanG wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 27, 2024 4:15 pm

So if I’m reading this right lc200n or vg10 are recommended for those getting into SE blades?

I don't know if LC200N or VG10 are the best materials for serrated knives. My only experience with Spyderco serrations is K390, but it hasn't disappointed. I started off with the Police 4. It's great for yard work, boxes, plastic packaging, etc. The size is sometimes a little big, so when the Endura and Delica started being offered at discounted prices, I bagged a couple. You might want to look into those, as the prices are good. Serrations are not the best option for all cutting tasks, but for many cutting tasks, they ARE the best option.

Hard to go wrong with the Rockjumper, which can still be found for around $60.

I've always thought H1(or now H2)can't be beat for SE. I must say though, VG-10 is incredible also. I have no experience with LC200N.

VandymanG wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 27, 2024 4:15 pm

So if I’m reading this right lc200n or vg10 are recommended for those getting into SE blades? Rockjumper or leafjumper?. Every time I attempt to buy an SE knife I end up getting plain edge. I have bad memories of sharpening a SE/PE tanto knife. The multiple bevels and the SE area made it a pain. Plus it was made of the cheap steel that was stamped stainless made in _____. So I’m thinking my step back into the SE world needs to be a good one. Would use for EDC type activities including yard work, hiking, camp fire starting, box cutting, cord cutting, whittling, etc…

Sharpening SE is actually not harder, but imo even a bit quicker and easier than PE, see here viewtopic.php?f=2&t=84544

And I'd get a Rock/LeafJumper SE or Endela SE or Stretch XL SE (in ffg / VG10) for a great spyderedge experience (of course there are more amazing options)
..

After reading through this thread as well as the other sharpening threads, I am a little confused on what people are finding as the best way to maintain serrated edges on the SharpMaker.

Here are the options I believe people have settled on:
1. Re-profile and maintain at 15 dps
2. Re-profile and maintain at 20 dps
2. Maintain edge as close to factory as possible
3. Don't overthink and simply touch up using the 20 dps as needed

I know that the first response will inevitably be "it depends on the steel and what you are using it for", but in general, what are most people doing? I have a serrated Endela, Native 5, and a Para 3. For me it seems simplest to not overthink it, and simply touch up the bevel on the 40 degree side of the SharpMaker, and a quick swipe to remove any burr. Any problems with this method?

You are absolutely right, there's no need to overthink it. Seki models seem to come at 20° or close enough to it. Some Golden models, like the Magnacut Native 5, come at 15°. So, give the edge a couple passes on the 30° side to see if you raise a burr. If no burr, switch to the 40° side and have at it.

Reprofiling SE edges is not for the faint of heart.