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I've recently acquired...um...a few...new Delicas. One of them is a PE emerson wave with the saber grind. I'm interested in taking it down to a scandi grind (no edge bevel), and I'm wondering the best way to do that. As I see it, there are 2 options:

-Set the saber grind flat on a stone and grind each side evenly until they meet at an edge.
Pros: Foolproof.
Cons: Lose more steel than necessary, take longer than necessary.

-Grind from the edge back, at an angle slightly more acute than the current saber grind until the edge bevel meets the saber grind shoulder.
Pros: Minimize steel loss, minimize grind time, more acute edge bevel.
Cons: Keeping consistent angle, making it even on both sides.

I know people here have done this. How did you do it?

T, I Haven't done it myself, but I own the exact same knife & I think you've got a great idea that would give the performance a quantum boost! :)

FWIW, I'd go with option 1...reason: the stock on those saber Delicas are too thick to begin with, IMHO. And you should have enough left at the spine and primary to still retain some strength of what remains of the sabre. Therefore: losing steel = good.

Foolproof is always good, also.

Please keep us posted! :spyder: :)

I think either way will be fine. Just keep in mind that the edge is going to be quite thin, so you may want to micro bevel it. I always wanted to do this with my old saber ZDP Delica, but never had the means to do it and ended up selling the knife.

Either way you are going to end up with an edge angle more acute than the steel will readily support in any cutting more serious than shaving hair or slicing paper. I've taken a couple of saber grind Enduras (one VG-10 and one ZDP-189) down to zero grinds and ended up putting secondary bevels back on them to strengthen the edge. The thinner blade stock of the Delica will give you an even weaker edge. It's your knife, so you can do what you want, but I'd suggest going with option 2 if you go ahead, just because it will give you a very slightly more useable edge.

yablanowitz wrote:Either way you are going to end up with an edge angle more acute than the steel will readily support in any cutting more serious than shaving hair or slicing paper. I've taken a couple of saber grind Enduras (one VG-10 and one ZDP-189) down to zero grinds and ended up putting secondary bevels back on them to strengthen the edge. The thinner blade stock of the Delica will give you an even weaker edge. It's your knife, so you can do what you want, but I'd suggest going with option 2 if you go ahead, just because it will give you a very slightly more useable edge.

Agree with Yab on this one.....Doc:)

So I'm hearing this may be a bad idea from an EDC standpoint?

Unit zero ground (from edge to the spine) his FFG ZDP Stretch a while back. I remember he said he could cut things with it.

I'm not too sure how different VG-10 and ZDP are edge stability wise.

I still have a couple of chips in the edge of the ZDP Endura that I scandi'd. The VG-10 didn't chip, but whittling on ash damaged the edge in much the same fashion that I saw on my first run Nilakka, although not as severe. It depends on how you use your knives. If opening an envelope is a big day for your EDC knife, full flat zero grind will work. If, like mine, it may be called upon to plane down an oak board to fit a cabinet, not so much.

I'm absolutely certain I've also seen a zero grind FFG Delica. But of course, the intended use is what matters most. I've also seen a saber that was flat ground on the back side to make a chisel grind.

I have a Steel Will Druid 200 I was thinking of doing the same thing to. I know it's not a Spyderco, but I've not found too many discussions on this mod.

TV Welcome back! Missed you my friend :) And this sounds very cool, the Saber grind to Scandi grind. I like both grinds.

SpyderEdgeForever wrote:TV Welcome back....

This thread got bumped from 2 years ago

Oops, wow thanks David, I didn't look at the year date on that.

JeremiaIII wrote:I have a Steel Will Druid 200 I was thinking of doing the same thing to. I know it's not a Spyderco, but I've not found too many discussions on this mod.

I don't know that knife, but a durable Scandi profile requires a steel with better than average edge stability and a much more obtuse angle than you will get by re-grinding most any other edge geometry.

Take a look at *real* Scandinavian knives, they all have relatively short grinds and don't use high carbide steel.

Here is a related question: IS it possible, if someone knew what they were doing, and had the proper equipment, to take a HOLLOW GRIND blade and modify it into a Scandi Grind or Saber Grind? And would the end result work as a good blade?

I think it would depend how thin the HG is ground.. Maybe?? John