Spyderco Forums

Cost wise, well that gets interesting, looking at 320, 400, 500 stones.

Moldmasters (just the stone) for 1 x 1/8 x 6 are under $4

Stock EP stones same size (just the stone) are $9

Now the Sharptons are 1 x 1/4 x 6 and mounted for $35

So now we match the Shapton size....

Moldmasters at 1 x 1/4 x 6 are $5

The Stock EP would be (Guessing) around $15 to $18 or so if they were the same size.

Add in the bases for the EP and Moldmasters at $5.

The Shaptons are $35

Moldmasters would be $10

EP Stock would be $20 to $23


So with have AO for the EP Stones vs SIC for the Moldmasters vs Ceramic for the Shaptons.

The EP stock stones wear out fast from my experience with them, the Moldmasters last a lot longer like 4 times as long at least.

If you buy an unmounted stone for an EdgePro can you use the backing plate from one of the original stones that came with the sharpener or do you need to buy another backing plate for it?

Johnnie1801 wrote:If you buy an unmounted stone for an EdgePro can you use the backing plate from one of the original stones that came with the sharpener or do you need to buy another backing plate for it?

You can use the same ones, just have to remove the old stones.

Ankerson wrote:

Johnnie1801 wrote:If you buy an unmounted stone for an EdgePro can you use the backing plate from one of the original stones that came with the sharpener or do you need to buy another backing plate for it?

You can use the same ones, just have to remove the old stones.

Which is super simple. I started out using a dish if water to soak my stock EP stones in like you would do regular water stones and one of them came unglued because of it.

Ankerson wrote:

Johnnie1801 wrote:If you buy an unmounted stone for an EdgePro can you use the backing plate from one of the original stones that came with the sharpener or do you need to buy another backing plate for it?

You can use the same ones, just have to remove the old stones.

Thanks Jim :)

With the Apex 1 you get the 220 and 400 grit, which other stones would you recommend to start with (120 and 1000 grit?).

Evil D wrote: Which is super simple. I started out using a dish if water to soak my stock EP stones in like you would do regular water stones and one of them came unglued because of it.

When you re-mount your stones now do you need to use some type of adhesive?

My EP Apex came with two blanks for polishing tapes, I imagine these could be used for attaching stones.

Johnnie1801 wrote:
When you re-mount your stones now do you need to use some type of adhesive?

I've never bought just a stone and had to mount them, but my understanding is that the EP stones are applied with spray type glue...nothing too fancy.

After using a sharpmaker and lansky for years, i finally got an Edgepro Apex kit4

I looked at the wicked edge, but the clamping put me off, i hated the clamp on my Lansky.

The first knife i sharpened was my Roadie.
Very sharp, fairly easy to do.

Spydie Santoku - yep, hairs leaping off my arm

A few other knives - all sharp too

Redid the roadie, taking more care to get the previous stones scratches out before moving on, and finished with a 3000grit tape for a mirror polish and the sharpest knife i have ever sharpened (i wound up losing it that night too, shame cos i really liked it, and picked it up out of the EDCF passaround box - but it can be replaced, i am actually worried about someone finding it and cutting themselves badly - i have been sharpening for years and am used to sharp knives, and it was another level over anything i have done before)

Today i sharpened my old Native3 - i never really got along with it for some reason, and it was never as sharp as i really wanted. Today it is a mirror polished cutting machine, and may wind up back in my EDC rotation.

My advice for anyone looking at an edgepro - get a 10x loupe, black sharpie and a good desk light at the same time, and go slow.

Also - 3M/scotchtape to a "outdoor" blue painters tape - imagine a cross between packing tape and insulation tape (fairly thick, but with minimal stretch) with the adhesive from normal blue painters tape.
Water resistant, and has been working well for me on both the table and blades

Shapton 320 and 500 grit stones for the EP and my S125V knife I just sharpened. :)

farnorthdan wrote:My EP Apex came with two blanks for polishing tapes, I imagine these could be used for attaching stones.

No - the tape blanks are too thick (to compensate for the thinness of the tape vs the thickness of the stones.

you could make your own stone blanks though, with 25mmx3mm aluminium bar, a hacksaw and a file
I intend on making my own balsa strops using aluminium bar - want to try and get true mirror polish on my knives.

Echo63 wrote:

farnorthdan wrote:My EP Apex came with two blanks for polishing tapes, I imagine these could be used for attaching stones.

No - the tape blanks are too thick (to compensate for the thinness of the tape vs the thickness of the stones.

you could make your own stone blanks though, with 25mmx3mm aluminium bar, a hacksaw and a file
I intend on making my own balsa strops using aluminium bar - want to try and get true mirror polish on my knives.

Actually you can use the lock ring collar so thickness doesn't really matter. This is why you use the collar, so you can compensate for varying thicknesses between stones.

farnorthdan wrote:

Echo63 wrote:

farnorthdan wrote:My EP Apex came with two blanks for polishing tapes, I imagine these could be used for attaching stones.

No - the tape blanks are too thick (to compensate for the thinness of the tape vs the thickness of the stones.

you could make your own stone blanks though, with 25mmx3mm aluminium bar, a hacksaw and a file
I intend on making my own balsa strops using aluminium bar - want to try and get true mirror polish on my knives.

Actually you can use the lock ring collar so thickness doesn't really matter. This is why you use the collar, so you can compensate for varying thicknesses between stones.

yes, you are correct - but the tape blanks are 3+mm thicker than the stone blanks - so its an extra 3mm you need to compensate for if you mount a stone to one and its a huge difference in angle if you forget to adjust for it

It's sort of irrelevant since if you're ordering blanks you could just order the correct ones...unless we're talking about gluing stones to the tape blanks but then you can't use tape anymore.

For years I used the Lansky 4-stone diamond kit and even though the finest stone is only 600 grit I always was able to make a pretty sharp edge. I reasently got a shapphire stone for this kit but haven't gotten around to trying it since I got the Tormek T-7. The Tormek is great but it takes time to learn the technics for the various jigs and blades.

http://www.tormek.com/en/machines/t7/index.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

What do you do to check how sharp the edge is? I see alot of people cutting paper but that can be done with almost any blade. I would like a test to reach for. If the knife can cut that it's really sharp kind of test.

Gurba wrote:For years I used the Lansky 4-stone diamond kit and even though the finest stone is only 600 grit I always was able to make a pretty sharp edge. I reasently got a shapphire stone for this kit but haven't gotten around to trying it since I got the Tormek T-7. The Tormek is great but it takes time to learn the technics for the various jigs and blades.

http://www.tormek.com/en/machines/t7/index.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I'd consider one for heavy reprofiling, but I avoid anything powered like that for fear of burning the edge, which doesn't take much at all. That plus the potential to really jack up your bevel if you accidentally run the wrong angle and/or to remove way more metal than necessary, and it's just not for me. When it comes to expensive knives, I prefer the slow and steady method of sharpening.

Evil D wrote: I'd consider one for heavy reprofiling, but I avoid anything powered like that for fear of burning the edge, which doesn't take much at all. That plus the potential to really jack up your bevel if you accidentally run the wrong angle and/or to remove way more metal than necessary, and it's just not for me. When it comes to expensive knives, I prefer the slow and steady method of sharpening.

the Tormeks actually run the stone in a water bath, and rotate it fairly slowly, it won't get hot enough to damage the edge.
they can mess the bevel up a bit if you do it wrong, but thats what cheap chinese knives are for (practice before your good knives)

Gurba wrote: What do you do to check how sharp the edge is? I see alot of people cutting paper but that can be done with almost any blade. I would like a test to reach for. If the knife can cut that it's really sharp kind of test.

push cutting paper need a pretty sharp edge, and slicing lets you feel and hear how the edge is cutting too.

if you want a challenge, try cutting newspaper, try tearing a bit, one way will tear in nice straight lines (with the grain) and 90degrees will be difficult to tear straight, wanting to run down the grain.
Slicing at 45 degrees to the grain and any little nick or dull spot in the edge will result in a tear instead of a cut - i have found it a pretty good test

Echo63 wrote:

Evil D wrote: I'd consider one for heavy reprofiling, but I avoid anything powered like that for fear of burning the edge, which doesn't take much at all. That plus the potential to really jack up your bevel if you accidentally run the wrong angle and/or to remove way more metal than necessary, and it's just not for me. When it comes to expensive knives, I prefer the slow and steady method of sharpening.

the Tormeks actually run the stone in a water bath, and rotate it fairly slowly, it won't get hot enough to damage the edge.
they can mess the bevel up a bit if you do it wrong, but thats what cheap chinese knives are for (practice before your good knives)

Gurba wrote: What do you do to check how sharp the edge is? I see alot of people cutting paper but that can be done with almost any blade. I would like a test to reach for. If the knife can cut that it's really sharp kind of test.

push cutting paper need a pretty sharp edge, and slicing lets you feel and hear how the edge is cutting too.

if you want a challenge, try cutting newspaper, try tearing a bit, one way will tear in nice straight lines (with the grain) and 90degrees will be difficult to tear straight, wanting to run down the grain.
Slicing at 45 degrees to the grain and any little nick or dull spot in the edge will result in a tear instead of a cut - i have found it a pretty good test

Cool. I can pushcut newpaper with my knives so I guess they are sharp. I don't pushcut on this video but it's just an AUS8 blade so...

https://youtu.be/j2qwRERusSw" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I have both and the wicked edge is better I sharpen all styles and sizes of blades no repositioning needed.the edge pro is good but it scratches the blade and I feel im going to break it .pluss the stones wear very fast

Ankerson wrote: Sounds good, here are my Moldmasters etc:

Have you had any issues keeping these stones glued to the blanks and/or do you use water with them? I may not have used enough glue, but my 80 grit came unglued the other day right in the middle of reprofiling a blade because I kept squirting water on it. I guess the more course stones are porous enough that water gets all the way through them and to the glue. Have you used them dry? Do you think that's a good/bad idea?

Evil D wrote:

Ankerson wrote: Sounds good, here are my Moldmasters etc:

Have you had any issues keeping these stones glued to the blanks and/or do you use water with them? I may not have used enough glue, but my 80 grit came unglued the other day right in the middle of reprofiling a blade because I kept squirting water on it. I guess the more course stones are porous enough that water gets all the way through them and to the glue. Have you used them dry? Do you think that's a good/bad idea?

No issues at all, I use Windex on mine.