That is so knifeysexy!!
Gorgeous.
:)
Show your mods!
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GoldenSpydie
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- Location: CO and WY
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phillipsted
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- Location: North Virginia
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GoldenSpydie
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Thanks! I used a left over piece of Mahogany from when I first got into knifemaking. It was the first wood that I ever used for scales.phillipsted wrote:Nice job on the MT19, G.S.! I really like working with Mahogany - it is a very forgiving wood that is easy to cut/sand/drill. And the flame on your scales is really nice! How did you finish them?
TedP
I shaped them with 80 and 120 grit on a 1x30 belt sander. Then I hand sanded them up to 400 grit. I then flamed them with a propane torch (I will make a video demonstrating it later). Then I sanded them with 600 grit to lighten the torch marks before applying about a dozen coats of Tung oil.
BTW, your scales are beautiful! I always love seeing your work. :)
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phillipsted
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Got some unexpected time in my shop this weekend and finished out these Pingo scales in unstabilized American Cherry. I've been wanting to work with cherry for a long time, but haven't gotten around to it. Cherry is really pretty on something the size of a piece of furniture... but on the smaller scale of knives, it always seemed kind of bland... I was poking around in my hardwood dealer's scrap pile a few weeks ago and found an off-cut of some really nice cherry with some good variation in color and some fire. It took a bit of planing on the larger piece to figure out how to cut it for knife scales.
To finish, I used the classic furniture-makers method called "french polish". I rubbed in about four coats of danish oil, wet sanding each coat to fill the grain. Then I added about five or six coats of hand-rubbed oil without the sanding, wiping down after each coat. When they were cured, I buffed them out and added some Renaissance Wax on top.
One issue with natural cherry is that it is relatively soft and would get dinged up quickly if carried as an EDC. Probably won't do any more scales with it, but it sure is nice to work with. Nothing polishes out better than a nice piece of cherry...
TedP
To finish, I used the classic furniture-makers method called "french polish". I rubbed in about four coats of danish oil, wet sanding each coat to fill the grain. Then I added about five or six coats of hand-rubbed oil without the sanding, wiping down after each coat. When they were cured, I buffed them out and added some Renaissance Wax on top.
One issue with natural cherry is that it is relatively soft and would get dinged up quickly if carried as an EDC. Probably won't do any more scales with it, but it sure is nice to work with. Nothing polishes out better than a nice piece of cherry...
TedP
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Liquid Cobra
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Have you ever posted your process in detail from start to finish? I love your work.
Most recently acquired: Military 2, Paramilitary 2 Tanto x2, YoJUMBO, Swayback, Siren, DLC Yojimbo 2, Native Chief, Shaman S90V, Para 3 LW, Ikuchi, UKPK, Smock, SUBVERT, Amalgam, Para 3 CTS-XHP, Kapara, Paramilitary 2 M390
Grail Paramilitary 2 M390 X 2! ACHIEVED!!
For more of my pictures see my Instagram account.
@liquid_cobra
Grail Paramilitary 2 M390 X 2! ACHIEVED!!
For more of my pictures see my Instagram account.
@liquid_cobra
I second this, I would love to see that. It would be extremely informative, educational and awesome!Liquid Cobra wrote:Have you ever posted your process in detail from start to finish? I love your work.
So many spydies, not enough pockets.
"No one else could ever be admitted here, since this gate was made only for you. I am now going to shut it." Before the Law, Franz Kafka
Spydernation #1990
"No one else could ever be admitted here, since this gate was made only for you. I am now going to shut it." Before the Law, Franz Kafka
Spydernation #1990
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3rdGenRigger
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You can google it to see what I am talking about. They typically hold the sprockets on a hub of a bicycle I believe.Jazz wrote:Mine was tight to get off, but I did it slowly and carefully. When I put it back together, it was a bit loose. I scoured my place for something to use and ended up using the end of a sharpening steel. It worked.
What does a chain ring bolt look like?
On the knife I was referring to I didn't care for the way it looked personally, but it would be another option.
V8R
Opinions are like belly buttons most people have one:p
Opinions are like belly buttons most people have one:p
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phillipsted
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Thanks, Michael! I generally use removable pilot counterbores. This enables me to swap out counterbores to work with more than one hole/pilot size. Most of mine I get from either Drills and Cutters or MSC Supply.SpyderNut wrote:Sweet mercy, that's beautiful, Ted! :eek: Nice work! BTW, what types (sizes) of counterbores do you use?
I'm compiling a complete list of hole and counterbore sizes for a variety of Spyderco models. I will post this soon.
TedP
