Spyderco Forums

yablanowitz wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 21, 2024 6:52 pm

The serrations are ground all at once on a shaped wheel. It isn't the heat that causes the work hardening, it is the mechanical/abrasive removal of material that does it. That's why it is always hollow ground, since that process is done on both sides at once. Grinding one side at a time results in blades warping among other problems when the second side is ground.

H1/H2 is special stuff, and it doesn't really act like conventional steel. I'd be willing to bet Spyderco ruined more than a few blades learning to work it.

Stuart Ackerman wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 21, 2024 6:53 pm

You can file H1 with a chainsaw file...but be prepared to take about 15 minutes for EACH large serrated concave profile.

sal wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 21, 2024 10:41 pm

Hey Al,

What is it you are trying to achieve?

sal

JoviAl wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 21, 2024 6:28 pm

Doc Dan wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 21, 2024 8:43 am

I don't think it works that way. I think the work hardening is in the manufacturing, at least I remember it being that way. Sharpening doesn't do it...though I have read some that say it will after a long time. I think it is a case that the teeth get a little rounded and therefore cut better. Those little teeth act like so many small knives and they really cut.

I’m familiar with work hardening from working with steel during welding applications (where you have to take measures not to over harden and crack your surrounding area from repeated grinding, hammering, bending and heating cycles), but I admit I’m unsure as to how grinding teeth into H1/2 might work harden it from factory. I can only speculate what the exact process of grinding teeth at the factory looks like (or if they are laser/hydro/sonic cut), but I’m going to have a stab at spooling my Foredom up to about 30,000 rpm and getting some serious heat built up at the grinding area, letting the new proto-serration cool, and then repeating until I have the full serration scallop cut (then doing the next one). That might be enough to stress the atomic structure and allow it to plastically deform into a work hardened state.

I find it amusingly ironic that I’m going to try and do something which I normally have to take such pains to avoid

I don’t wreck the knife.

Doc Dan wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 21, 2024 11:32 pm

JoviAl wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 21, 2024 6:28 pm

Doc Dan wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 21, 2024 8:43 am

I don't think it works that way. I think the work hardening is in the manufacturing, at least I remember it being that way. Sharpening doesn't do it...though I have read some that say it will after a long time. I think it is a case that the teeth get a little rounded and therefore cut better. Those little teeth act like so many small knives and they really cut.

I’m familiar with work hardening from working with steel during welding applications (where you have to take measures not to over harden and crack your surrounding area from repeated grinding, hammering, bending and heating cycles), but I admit I’m unsure as to how grinding teeth into H1/2 might work harden it from factory. I can only speculate what the exact process of grinding teeth at the factory looks like (or if they are laser/hydro/sonic cut), but I’m going to have a stab at spooling my Foredom up to about 30,000 rpm and getting some serious heat built up at the grinding area, letting the new proto-serration cool, and then repeating until I have the full serration scallop cut (then doing the next one). That might be enough to stress the atomic structure and allow it to plastically deform into a work hardened state.

I find it amusingly ironic that I’m going to try and do something which I normally have to take such pains to avoid

I don’t wreck the knife.

Wow! Well, I hope that works. If it does, you will have discovered something that will help all of us and will answer a great mystery.

Stuart Ackerman wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 22, 2024 1:43 am

Al
I would suggest using a black marker pen to blacken the area that you want to cut.

Start with a tri-angle file to get the position, and file to almost the desired depth you think you need.

THEN use the chainsaw file to get the profile.

Stuart Ackerman wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 22, 2024 2:42 am

The Ti coating will act as a guide, so no worries.

Use whatever you want to use...this is a "see what happens" trial?

JoviAl wrote: ↑

Tue Apr 30, 2024 10:01 pm

So…the knife arrived and is a thing of functional beauty. Then my wife claimed it as her own having just completed her Forest School operator certification. I couldn’t say no - she really loves it

Back to the drawing board

SaltyCaribbeanDfly wrote: ↑

Wed May 01, 2024 3:14 am

JoviAl wrote: ↑

Tue Apr 30, 2024 10:01 pm

So…the knife arrived and is a thing of functional beauty. Then my wife claimed it as her own having just completed her Forest School operator certification. I couldn’t say no - she really loves it

Back to the drawing board

Smart move Al

Doc Dan wrote: ↑

Wed May 01, 2024 10:02 am

Well, she has good taste in knives and a smart husband.