Look more closely, the peaks of the teeth are not in line with the bottom of the scallops. Spyder Edge is finished with a micro-bevel from the factory, as you will quickly discover if you sharpen the back side of the serrations, thus sharpening flat with the primary grind on the back side of the serrations is an improvement over the factory sharpening.Evil D wrote: ↑Mon May 30, 2022 1:51 pmJoshua J. wrote: ↑Mon May 30, 2022 1:36 pm
Every Spyder Edge I've seen already has a bevel on the back side, they still finish the edge with a bevel on both sides, so in that regard you can most likely improve on the factory edge with a bit more grinding on the primary bevel.
Hollow Ground blades are especially good because, like sharpening a straight razor, the hollow just makes it much faster to sharpen.
Yes, once you've thinned the blade to nothing that is the end of the useful life of the blade.
On most folders after about 1/8 of the spine to edge width is ground off the edge is no longer covered by the handle anyway, forcing the knife into retirement (unless you're going to disassemble the knife and adjust the kick). Some handles do cover more blade than others so it's not universal, but at least this way after the serrations are gone you've still got an effective slicer.
Even if you do believe in maintaining the scallops you are far better off sharpening away the majority of the scallop bevel before trying to grind the scallops deeper into the blade.
Starting off your sharpening routine by thickening an already very thick bevel goes against basic principles of knife sharpening.
I don't have one single SE blade that has an edge bevel ground on the back side and I think I have about 30 SE knives now....?
If you apply a secondary bevel to thin the blade thickness behind the edge it's accomplishing the same thing as sharpening the back side of the serrations, you're cutting down the height of the serration, the only difference is sharpening flat with the blade on the backside of the serrations is killing two birds with one stone because you're thinning behind the edge and shaping the edge itself at the same time, and sharpening the backside with a large coarse stone takes about 1/10th as much time and infinitely less skill than trying to sharpen scallops individually, so in the end using rods to sharpen the edge profile of an SE blade is just extremely inefficient. (You do still need rods to de-burr though so don't ditch them entirely.)Evil D wrote: ↑Mon May 30, 2022 1:51 pmYou and I have had this debate before, and I have to say I couldn't understand where you're coming from any less than I do. The way I reprofile my serrations doesn't make the edge thicker either, I don't see where you're getting that. The thickness of the blade at the top edge of the serration bevel shoulder may increase (thickness behind the bevel) but the resulting inclusive edge angle is typically below 20 degrees and by lowering the bevel angle it blends in better with the blade grind and makes the front bevel closer to a convex edge, making a much smoother blade that slices way better. The added benefits of smoother ridges between the serrations and less snagging are also enormous.
Whether intentionally or unintentionally this conversation is clearly going no-where, the only thing I can say now is "Try It".
Until you've used both methods you're under prepared to discuss the merits of the method.