Show your Mule
My Maple Mule
I'm late to the party, but was very happy to receive my completed CPM-M4 Mule this week. The work was done by Erwin Roach, a Mississippi knifemaker who does some very nice work. He maintains a website at http://www.angelfire.com/extreme4/e3knives/
Erwin took the scales from a quilted maple block that I purchased several years ago and have been looking for the right opportunity to use it. The attention to detail is pretty amazing and I really appreciate the work at the rear of the handle/lanyard hole. The sheath is a nice touch.
Erwin took the scales from a quilted maple block that I purchased several years ago and have been looking for the right opportunity to use it. The attention to detail is pretty amazing and I really appreciate the work at the rear of the handle/lanyard hole. The sheath is a nice touch.
3D bookmatched quilted
Shawn,
That is the nicest set of muley scales I've seen so far...hands down. Book matched quilted maple, Excellent choice, hard to beat a 3D offering from mother nature !!!! Nice accents with the mosaics and liner. Those scales stabilized or is there another finish on there? Your pics turned out great too.
Larry
That is the nicest set of muley scales I've seen so far...hands down. Book matched quilted maple, Excellent choice, hard to beat a 3D offering from mother nature !!!! Nice accents with the mosaics and liner. Those scales stabilized or is there another finish on there? Your pics turned out great too.
Larry
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They are 3/16" diameter SS threaded spacers available at http://www.mcmaster.com. I counterbore into the back of the scale to increase thread engagement.MountainManJim wrote:Potterma,
What are the torx screws threaded into?? This that a type of barrel nut? Where can I get them?
Jim
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Orange/Black
Potterma, wow, that's a really unique and eye-catching combination. Love the use of G-10 and CF. Nice work.
Black Walnut Handle
This is my first attempt at a knife handle.
I used black walnut crotch wood from set #5 listed at http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showt ... p?t=603221.
I bought a Spyderco Mule Team CPM M4 knife (http://www.spyderco.com/catalog/details.php?product=364) and fashioned my own handle.
I don't have any real power tools to use. I used a cordless 3-3/8-Inch saw to cut (via two passes) one block in half to make bookends and then hand planned them flat.
To secure the handle I used two hidden pins and epoxy that I put in place with the help of a tutorial found at http://www.northcoastknives.com/northco ... _tips5.htm. The knife has holes pre-drilled that include an extra little notch which I thought would assist in the hold of the epoxy.
I then used a coping saw, files, dremel tool and sandpaper shape the handle. I finished it with three coats of tung oil, steel wool between coats, and a buffer to shine (It was shinier before the steel wool but that didn't last).
What do you think?
I know there are some scratches to the blade's spine and underside and after looking at the photos I can see that there are some improvements to be made and better finishing to be done.
After having completed this knife handle this far, I know a little more as to what effort and skill the true knifemakers must have and utilize to make their knives. It makes me appreciate all you true knifemakers even more!
Thanks,
Brett
I used black walnut crotch wood from set #5 listed at http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showt ... p?t=603221.
I bought a Spyderco Mule Team CPM M4 knife (http://www.spyderco.com/catalog/details.php?product=364) and fashioned my own handle.
I don't have any real power tools to use. I used a cordless 3-3/8-Inch saw to cut (via two passes) one block in half to make bookends and then hand planned them flat.
To secure the handle I used two hidden pins and epoxy that I put in place with the help of a tutorial found at http://www.northcoastknives.com/northco ... _tips5.htm. The knife has holes pre-drilled that include an extra little notch which I thought would assist in the hold of the epoxy.
I then used a coping saw, files, dremel tool and sandpaper shape the handle. I finished it with three coats of tung oil, steel wool between coats, and a buffer to shine (It was shinier before the steel wool but that didn't last).
What do you think?
I know there are some scratches to the blade's spine and underside and after looking at the photos I can see that there are some improvements to be made and better finishing to be done.
After having completed this knife handle this far, I know a little more as to what effort and skill the true knifemakers must have and utilize to make their knives. It makes me appreciate all you true knifemakers even more!
Thanks,
Brett
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Just got this back from Scott at Scott's sheaths. He did a great job on both the handle and the sheath. Box elder burl handle. I'm really happy with how this came out! I thought I'd start displaying my other collection with my Spydie pix.
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Here's mine
Tarnished
I have referred to it in my post here
http://spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36751
Tarnished
I have referred to it in my post here
http://spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36751
You and your friend look too small to even pick the knife up.Pancho wrote:Just got this back from Scott at Scott's sheaths. He did a great job on both the handle and the sheath. Box elder burl handle. I'm really happy with how this came out! I thought I'd start displaying my other collection with my Spydie pix.
- tonydahose
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that desert ironwood is beautiful...nice job!
WTC #1444 Always Remember
Need info on a particular :spyder:, just click here
My knives
Spydie count: a few:D
Need info on a particular :spyder:, just click here
My knives
Spydie count: a few:D