D2 Steel

[Bert T]

I've searched the Internet and this forum reading all I can find about D2 steel used in knife blades. In addition to this information I would like to hear more of what the members of this forum think about it, personal experiences, and so forth.

Bert

[SQSAR]

D2 is one of my personal favorites. I like the fact that it’s a well rounded ‘old-school’ classic that’s been around for a while, , ,and stays around because it brings a lot to the table. I find it to be relatively easy to both work and heat-treat. Once deployed in a utility knife it takes a reasonable edge, and holds it nicely. Sure, some will say it isn’t ‘stainless’ but I’ve never had a problem with it rusting at all, and I will gladly give up some of the rust resistance I might find in a 440c or VG-10 for the overall toughness and edge-holding characteristics of good-ol D2.

[TomH]

I saw an expensive knife (not a Spyderco) made of D2 sitting on display in a store here that had rust on it. The steel apparently couldn't withstand the high humidity in Taiwan. After that, I decided to stay away from D2.

[Blerv]

D2 is what the industry considers a semi-stainless tool steel. It's focus is edge retention while remaining tough. I don't have experience with it but have seen hundreds of opinions on Bladeforums between it and S30v which makes me feel they have similar enough traits but each has it's own group of loyalists.

I wouldn't be opposed to it if the knife was appealing.

[Zenith]

I have a D2 Benchmade and I like the steel. The steel dates back to the second world war and has been used in knives throughout the years. With the addition of Bob Dozier and his influence in heat treating the steel the steel has seen some uprising again.

I have used mine extensively and I cant say anything negative about it. It can also take a very nice edge.



Under 25 times magnification:

[Lord vader]

I have never heard anything negative about D2 steel,and never had the privilege of using any.I would not mind trying it out.

[Bert T]

Zenith, I have on order the Benchmade Bone Collector small, part no. 15030. If I like that D2 steel as much as I think I will, it will take it's turn as an EDC with my Spyderco Gayle Bradley.

Bert

Fellows, please understand I am not "pushing" Benchmade knives, but Knife Works has a coupon code to use on Internet sales going now for Benchmade knives. My order was reduced from $114.75 to $86.06. Spyderco is my first choice, and probably will always be.

B

[SQSAR]

D2 is what the industry considers a semi-stainless tool steel. It's focus is edge retention while remaining tough. I don't have experience with it but have seen hundreds of opinions on Bladeforums between it and S30v which makes me feel they have similar enough traits but each has it's own group of loyalists.

I wouldn't be opposed to it if the knife was appealing.

I'd take a D2 blade over S30v any day. S30v is a good steel and all, but I like D2 better.

[EarthDog]

I have a couple of knives in D2 (806D2 and 710D2). For me, it seems OK, but my experience is that I get a better edge in VG10 or S30V.

[SQSAR]

I have a couple of knives in D2 (806D2 and 710D2). For me, it seems OK, but my experience is that I get a better edge in VG10 or S30V.

I'd agree VG-10 tends to take a 'better' edge; S30v's edge is, I'd say, comparable. But D2 (for me at least) will hold that initial super sharpness longer than S30v, and then holds a working edge better than VG-10. YMMV

[defenestrate]

high performance all-around knife steel. stain resistance but will rust if not cared for under harsh conditions (salinated water or blood for instance). edge holding up there with better stainless super steels, and better toughness. CTS-XHP is a full-stainless modified D2.

[SQSAR]

high performance all-around knife steel. stain resistance but will rust if not cared for under harsh conditions (salinated water or blood for instance). edge holding up there with better stainless super steels, and better toughness. CTS-XHP is a full-stainless modified D2.

Good point on the XHP. Explains why I like it so much.

[Monocrom]

I hate D2.

It's a tool steel. Way too hard. Holds an edge for a ridiculously long amount of use, but is even more ridiculous when you need to sharpen it. Honestly, you'd have an easier time sharpening a brick. Even with a diamond hone.

[gooeytek]

D2 is an outstanding steel, and it's modern version, CPM-D2, is even better. It holds an edge for a long time, polishes up very nicely, and although it is a little more difficult to sharpen than VG10 or 154CM, it's not a problem with a ceramic kit.

As with any quality steel, a good stropping is all that's needed after a proper sharpened edge is achieved providing it isn't damaged after use. Even S110V is manageable with the right technique and the proper equipment, and it doesn't have to be an expensive sharpening kit either.

[Monocrom]

D2 is an outstanding steel, and it's modern version, CPM-D2, is even better. It holds an edge for a long time, polishes up very nicely, and although it is a little more difficult to sharpen than VG10 or 154CM, it's not a problem with a ceramic kit.

A little??

That's like saying the Titanic suffered from a little too much ice.

[gooeytek]

Yes, a little. I mainly use paper wheels, and D2 does need a few more passes on the stropping wheel, but very little difference on the grit wheel. On the Spyderco UF bench stone, it does take a little longer when doing it freehand, but very far from what it would take to make me hate the steel and actually avoid it in favor of another.

Using the knives to the point where they might need a touchup, D2 lasts very noticeably longer than VG-10 or 154CM. Might take a little longer to sharpen, but it takes a whole lot more use until it dulls. Now, I have come across some really hard D2, like in the composite-bladed Leek where it noteably takes more time to sharpen over other D2 blades, like in the BM Griptilian. Still not a deal-breaker for me though.

It's like the argument that comes up between tip-up and tip-down carry, thumbstuds vs thumb holes, some people avoid a knife because it lacks one or the other, but when you really think about it, it really isn't a big deal.

[Zenith]

I hate D2.

It's a tool steel. Way too hard. Holds an edge for a ridiculously long amount of use, but is even more ridiculous when you need to sharpen it. Honestly, you'd have an easier time sharpening a brick. Even with a diamond hone.

For what its worth, I found D2 was hard to reprofile. The edge I have on it in the photos are at 10 degrees per side. It took me a hour to do this on an old Silicone Carbide Stone. I reprofiled CPM-M4 in 30minutes on diamonds (600grit only stone with me in the field) and it is also a hard steel to sharpen (diamonds do make it quicker for me), but once this is done, it is MUCH easier to maintain the edge on a system such as a Sharpmaker since you hit the very edge when maintaining. Many knives come at such a steep angle that it is hard to hit the very edge because you either hit the shoulders of the edge, or since the entire edge angle is at 15 degrees you have to remove more steel in order to create a burr. At a low initial angle of 10 degrees example and you maintain at 15 degrees the only steel removed is on the last 1/16th of the edge. So less area of steel needs to be removed.

Does this make any sense? It has been a long working day today.

[SQSAR]

Good point Zenith. With absolutely every knife I get one of the 1st steps is to reprofile it to the angle and edge I want. Never do I just try to sharpen a blade at the edge it comes with. By taking this time up front, it makes maintaining an edge much, much easier. I may be spoiled because I have an EP with quite a number of different stones and tapes. This being the case, an initial reprofile of anything from S90v to 440c is about the same since the EP makes easy work of either one. Once one has a system like this, they needn't worry about the time it takes to sharpen one steel vs. another, and he/she can concentrate on the type of edge (toothy, polished, or anything in between) and angle. In the end, I love D2, but I don't expect everyone will.

[Bert T]

I have the Edge Pro Apex. And as SQSAR said, "Once one has a system like this, they needn't worry about the time it takes to sharpen one steel vs. another, and he/she can concentrate on the type of edge (toothy, polished, or anything in between) and angle".

Bert

[JD Spydo]

The big "bugaboo" I've heard about D-2 steel from a couple of pros is that it is one of the most difficult steels to properly heat treat. I'm not big into custom knives but one custom knife maker I plan on buying from is a guy in Arkansas named Bob Dozier. He has been nick-named "Mr. D-2" by many of his peers and friends.

I'm sure Spyderco would do an excellent job on D-2 as they have on other tool steels.

As far as the one brother complaining about how horrible it is to sharpen :eek: Well if he thinks that D-2 is bad he sure doesn't want to try to sharpen 440V (Crucible S60V) :rolleyes: :eek: Sharpening 440V is truly punishment>> but the results are well worth it just like they are with a well sharpened D-2 blade.

When I was still working a lot in a machine tool shop I made a couple of V-Blocks out of D-2 and I ruined 2 high quality endmill bits working on them :eek:

No it's a great knife steel IMO. Sharpening good steel just takes patience.