For quite some time I thought the same - that the "aggressive" serrations would outperform the "non aggressive" ones on rope and the like.
But honestly: Just in my testing I came to the conclusion that this is actually not the case for me: On material like hemp ropes or climbing ropes the "aggressive" teeth tended to "hook" or "snag" and "stop" the cut, while the "non aggressive" ones just glided through (both types work better than PE for me on ropes and the like though).
Really curious what you´ll find when comparing the "shallow" Stretch XL serrations to your preferred "pointier" ones!!
The spyderdge snag only when it’s not at peak sharpness. Peak sharpness for me might be different than peak sharpness for you. Trust me on that. Or not…
I do trust you of course!
Might very well be that in my testing the edge was not sharp enough! Actually all I can say that each scallop could slice printer paper easily, which is not necessarily "peak sharp" of course.
Actually you just made me want to test again: If "peak sharpness" aggressive SE outperforms "peak sharpness" "non aggressive SE" on material like rope, this would change my perspective a lot - and I´d keep peak sharp, aggressive SE knives particularly for such materials (that is if I can achieve that level of sharpness at all with my limited skills and gear)
As of now I guess all I can still say is that for me just decently sharp "non aggressive" SE outperforms just decently sharp "aggressive" SE
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
Marius, just two cents worth; I find it quicker and easier to keep a SE blade very sharp, if you have a Sharpmaker. It literally takes just a couple minutes. Let us know how you like your new knife.
Marius, just two cents worth; I find it quicker and easier to keep a SE blade very sharp, if you have a Sharpmaker. It literally takes just a couple minutes. Let us know how you like your new knife.
I always use the SM for sharpening SE and it works great.
But right now I am thinking that I probably don´t even use it to its full potential: For whatever reason so far I was perfectly happy if pretty much any of the larger scallops could cut printer paper effortlessly. Never continued any further (while I often would with PE), cause SE for me was perfect already at this level of sharpness.
But Marius really made me think and I´ll have to try if "even sharper" "aggressive" SE is actually better than I thought.
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
Not a good pic, and I had to edit it to fit, but:
Salt
Pac Salt 2
Jumpmaster 2
All of them cut extremely well.
But, nothing cuts like the Jumpmaster. At least nothing I've experienced.
Hey Marius, I have a little different perspective. I will probably buy the SE as my first Stretch XL but that is because I am waiting for the Salt version to come out. That may be a couple of months out or maybe over a year, who knows?
What I would probably do in YOUR shoes though is get the PE VG10 now. I mean, when the Salt comes out you are almost certainly going to get one of those too no? So if you think you are going to want a SE in the Salt (which I would) then maybe better to get PE now in the VG10 version? Just a thought.
20220618_014041.jpg
Not a good pic, and I had to edit it to fit, but:
Salt
Pac Salt 2
Jumpmaster 2
All of them cut extremely well. But, nothing cuts like the Jumpmaster. At least nothing I've experienced.
Yeah, I have the Jumpmaster 1 and can agree that NOTHING cuts like that knife. It’s a monster!
For whatever reason so far I was perfectly happy if pretty much any of the larger scallops could cut printer paper effortlessly.
It's not just the scallops that need to be sharp, it's also the "points," at least with aggressive serrations. I test this by dragging the edge across a folded paper towel (weight of the blade only). If they're truly sharp, they'll cleanly slice into the top layer of the paper towel; if not, they snag and tear.
Hey Marius, I have a little different perspective. I will probably buy the SE as my first Stretch XL but that is because I am waiting for the Salt version to come out. That may be a couple of months out or maybe over a year, who knows?
What I would probably do in YOUR shoes though is get the PE VG10 now. I mean, when the Salt comes out you are almost certainly going to get one of those too no? So if you think you are going to want a SE in the Salt (which I would) then maybe better to get PE now in the VG10 version? Just a thought.
You might be right Lance but look what you did … you made me think….
I own the Jumpmaster 2 … I keep it in my bugoutbag. Man, it’s a beast !
Marius
" A mind all logic is like a knife all blade. It makes the hand bleed that uses it "
( Rabindranath Tagore ) Proud member of the old school spyderedge nation
For whatever reason so far I was perfectly happy if pretty much any of the larger scallops could cut printer paper effortlessly.
It's not just the scallops that need to be sharp, it's also the "points," at least with aggressive serrations. I test this by dragging the edge across a folded paper towel (weight of the blade only). If they're truly sharp, they'll cleanly slice into the top layer of the paper towel; if not, they snag and tear.
Yes you’re right. The sides of the “points” must be also at peak sharpness unless you want to snag. It’s not easy to achieve but once you do it you’ll enjoy the peak performance of a spyderedge. I know this contradicts what Evil D wrote in his thread and I don’t want to start a dispute but this is my perspective after many years of using my H1 and VG10 spyderedges.Lance Clinton triggered my passion for the Pac Salt in spyderedge and man, do I love that knife. It would be interesting to watch this https://youtu.be/_ufue1riPu8
Marius
" A mind all logic is like a knife all blade. It makes the hand bleed that uses it "
( Rabindranath Tagore ) Proud member of the old school spyderedge nation
For whatever reason so far I was perfectly happy if pretty much any of the larger scallops could cut printer paper effortlessly.
It's not just the scallops that need to be sharp, it's also the "points," at least with aggressive serrations. I test this by dragging the edge across a folded paper towel (weight of the blade only). If they're truly sharp, they'll cleanly slice into the top layer of the paper towel; if not, they snag and tear.
Yes you’re right. The sides of the “points” must be also at peak sharpness unless you want to snag. It’s not easy to achieve but once you do it you’ll enjoy the peak performance of a spyderedge. I know this contradicts what Evil D wrote in his thread and I don’t want to start a dispute but this is my perspective after many years of using my H1 and VG10 spyderedges.Lance Clinton triggered my passion for the Pac Salt in spyderedge and man, do I love that knife. It would be interesting to watch this https://youtu.be/_ufue1riPu8
Thanks, guys, you gave me things to think about and to try out!
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
Yes you’re right. The sides of the “points” must be also at peak sharpness unless you want to snag. It’s not easy to achieve but once you do it you’ll enjoy the peak performance of a spyderedge. I know this contradicts what Evil D wrote in his thread and I don’t want to start a dispute but this is my perspective after many years of using my H1 and VG10 spyderedges.Lance Clinton triggered my passion for the Pac Salt in spyderedge and man, do I love that knife. It would be interesting to watch this https://youtu.be/_ufue1riPu8
I certainly didn't write the book on this stuff, it's just one man's opinion. I like my teeth to have an edge at the top of them. Edges cut, points scratch. Either may work better or worse with different materials, I've just found that for all my uses I don't benefit from pointy teeth.
