I'm going to start making my own handles for MT projects...and I have lots of burlap & some old coffee bags that I think will make great handles.
My question for those of you who have made your own Micarta-like composite handles:
What brand / type of resin & catalyst do you prefer?
Resin & Hardener question
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Re: Resin & Hardener question
I just use Devcon 2-ton epoxy. Tough and stable.
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Re: Resin & Hardener question
West System by the Gurgaon Bros. Has been around for close to 40 years and well proven.
1.Non toxic in use.
2.Allows many different additives. No more buy and have" X" product as bog/filler, "B" product as glue.
3.YOU can control: colour +hardness + mould ability +strength. AND make up as much/little as required.
4. Cheap.
Warning, when using Colloidal Silica, it is extremely hard to sand after set. Very abrasion resistant.
The Dry micro spheres (bog) are easily ingested and dangerous but stable when mixed. Think EXTREMELY fine talcum powder. They are so fine, they actually flow like water when tipped out of bag. Trippy..
K
1.Non toxic in use.
2.Allows many different additives. No more buy and have" X" product as bog/filler, "B" product as glue.
3.YOU can control: colour +hardness + mould ability +strength. AND make up as much/little as required.
4. Cheap.
Warning, when using Colloidal Silica, it is extremely hard to sand after set. Very abrasion resistant.
The Dry micro spheres (bog) are easily ingested and dangerous but stable when mixed. Think EXTREMELY fine talcum powder. They are so fine, they actually flow like water when tipped out of bag. Trippy..
K
Re: Resin & Hardener question
I did a ferrule for a Japanese petty in German army cotton moleskin wrap. I used 5 minute (no idea which brand) epoxy and the result was just so-so. The resin didn't permeate the dense weave of the cloth well enough to be easily laid up, but once it was cured for a few days it has turned out to be nice and water resistant.
-David
still more knives than sharpening stones...
still more knives than sharpening stones...
Re: Resin & Hardener question
Seems like it only comes in small quantities, is this the case or am I looking for the wrong stuff?OldHoosier62 wrote:I just use Devcon 2-ton epoxy. Tough and stable.
Re: Resin & Hardener question
I've looked at this product before...I'm a little worried about the sand-ability issuekiwisailor wrote:West System by the Gurgaon Bros. Has been around for close to 40 years and well proven.
1.Non toxic in use.
2.Allows many different additives. No more buy and have" X" product as bog/filler, "B" product as glue.
3.YOU can control: colour +hardness + mould ability +strength. AND make up as much/little as required.
4. Cheap.
Warning, when using Colloidal Silica, it is extremely hard to sand after set. Very abrasion resistant.
The Dry micro spheres (bog) are easily ingested and dangerous but stable when mixed. Think EXTREMELY fine talcum powder. They are so fine, they actually flow like water when tipped out of bag. Trippy..
K
Seems like sanding is the prime way to shape composite handles :confused:
Also, the micro-sphere thing more than concerns me...especially considering I'm gonna be the one doing the down & dirty part of the job
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Re: Resin & Hardener question
Check Devcons website, also USA Knifemakers supply has larger quantities (labeled as West brand adhesives). I have used both with excellent results.paladin wrote:Seems like it only comes in small quantities, is this the case or am I looking for the wrong stuff?OldHoosier62 wrote:I just use Devcon 2-ton epoxy. Tough and stable.
- The Deacon
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Re: Resin & Hardener question
I had good luck years back with Tower Hobbies "house brand", but they also sell Great Planes, and Devcon. For making "mycarta" I'd suggest the 30 minute stuff, gives it more time to penetrate the fabric. Some method of creating a decent vacuum chamber for it to cure in will reduce the number of air bubbles.
Paul
My Personal Website ---- Beginners Guide to Spyderco Collecting ---- Spydiewiki
Deplorable :p
WTC # 1458 - 1504 - 1508 - Never Forget, Never Forgive!
My Personal Website ---- Beginners Guide to Spyderco Collecting ---- Spydiewiki
Deplorable :p
WTC # 1458 - 1504 - 1508 - Never Forget, Never Forgive!
Re: Resin & Hardener question
I see what you did there...clever...hahahaThe Deacon wrote:I had good luck years back with Tower Hobbies "house brand", but they also sell Great Planes, and Devcon. For making "mycarta" I'd suggest the 30 minute stuff, gives it more time to penetrate the fabric. Some method of creating a decent vacuum chamber for it to cure in will reduce the number of air bubbles.
Thanks for the advice on the set time.
I don't have plans for a vacuum chamber, I'm going to initially roll with saturating each layer & heavy clamping-- that is, once I settle on the resin + catalyst combo.
Thanks for the input everyone-- anyone else got any experience?
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Re: Resin & Hardener question
No matter what product/brand you end up using, the DUST IS the problem.
The easiest/cheapest solution is to use a home vacuum cleaner mounted near the sander (Don't let your wife see).
All sanded products are toxic due to Inhalation of fine dust. Bone included, as bone carvers have found out.
We always carved Nephrite (Jade) under water so it was not a issue. Just water dripping onto carving from a gravity tank, not Hi-tech.
When laying up the composite, you can use a gravity clamp. i.e. a heavy weight. Cheap and cheerful.
If using West System and you require complete penetration of Matrix, dilute (after mixing) with ethanol.
Glue can be easily washed of hands using ethanol. DO NOT use toxic Acetone (nail polish remover) as it causes Kidney issues.
Research West and you will see additives that are so soft, for surface filling, (microspheres) that you could just about sand them with your tongue..
Used in the Boat Building industry every day.
Really is a versatile product, used in your America's Cup winning Catamaran (made in New Zealand of course, the Cats that is)
K
The easiest/cheapest solution is to use a home vacuum cleaner mounted near the sander (Don't let your wife see).
All sanded products are toxic due to Inhalation of fine dust. Bone included, as bone carvers have found out.
We always carved Nephrite (Jade) under water so it was not a issue. Just water dripping onto carving from a gravity tank, not Hi-tech.
When laying up the composite, you can use a gravity clamp. i.e. a heavy weight. Cheap and cheerful.
If using West System and you require complete penetration of Matrix, dilute (after mixing) with ethanol.
Glue can be easily washed of hands using ethanol. DO NOT use toxic Acetone (nail polish remover) as it causes Kidney issues.
Research West and you will see additives that are so soft, for surface filling, (microspheres) that you could just about sand them with your tongue..
Used in the Boat Building industry every day.
Really is a versatile product, used in your America's Cup winning Catamaran (made in New Zealand of course, the Cats that is)
K