Wicked Edge or EdgePro??

[Brock O Lee]

Aha, ok, that makes sense... :)

To anyone looking to get an EP, here is my 2c... Make sure you get the 'stone levelling kit', or have an alternative method to maintain your stones.

I find the 120 grit coarse stone does 90% of the work during a reprofile. It will lose most of its aggression during such a session, sometimes even before you are done cutting the bevel on a high wear steel like S90V. Out comes the stone levelling kit, it flattens the stone and exposes fresh sharp abrasive, and restores the aggression.

I normally check all my stones for dishing before I start, and normally lap/flatten them at least after every reprofile.

[MadMaximus]

Aha, ok, that makes sense... :)

To anyone looking to get an EP, here is my 2c... Make sure you get the 'stone levelling kit', or have an alternative method to maintain your stones.

I find the 120 grit coarse stone does 90% of the work during a reprofile. It will lose most of its aggression during such a session, sometimes even before you are done cutting the bevel on a high wear steel like S90V. Out comes the stone levelling kit, it flattens the stone and exposes fresh sharp abrasive, and restores the aggression.

I normally check all my stones for dishing before I start, and normally lap/flatten them at least after every reprofile.

I second that, I bought a 140 grit diamond stone from chef knives to go (I think thats what its called) and that has replaced my 120 grit stone. They have a really wide one or a standard edge pro size (which is what I went with). All stones will eventually need leveling, so the leveling kit is a must-have. I'd also upgrade it with the collar that will make it easier adjusting the angle when changing stones if they're different thicknesses, as well as a magnet for it (keeps the blades rock solid on the table). Both of which are available at the same place as the 140 grit diamond, not trying to make a commercial for them but it really takes the Edge Pro to the next level.

[Evil D]

Aha, ok, that makes sense... :)

To anyone looking to get an EP, here is my 2c... Make sure you get the 'stone levelling kit', or have an alternative method to maintain your stones.

I find the 120 grit coarse stone does 90% of the work during a reprofile. It will lose most of its aggression during such a session, sometimes even before you are done cutting the bevel on a high wear steel like S90V. Out comes the stone levelling kit, it flattens the stone and exposes fresh sharp abrasive, and restores the aggression.

I normally check all my stones for dishing before I start, and normally lap/flatten them at least after every reprofile.

I second that, I bought a 140 grit diamond stone from chef knives to go (I think thats what its called) and that has replaced my 120 grit stone. They have a really wide one or a standard edge pro size (which is what I went with). All stones will eventually need leveling, so the leveling kit is a must-have. I'd also upgrade it with the collar that will make it easier adjusting the angle when changing stones if they're different thicknesses, as well as a magnet for it (keeps the blades rock solid on the table). Both of which are available at the same place as the 140 grit diamond, not trying to make a commercial for them but it really takes the Edge Pro to the next level.

The knob spring, magnet, and stop collar should be standard items included with the Edge Pro, but for whatever reason he (Ben Dale) seems to either not care or doesn't think they're necessary. They changed the experience of using the EP by 10 fold.

[Ankerson]

Never used any of them myself.

The only change I ever made was the stones that I use. :)

[Evil D]

Never used any of them myself.

The only change I ever made was the stones that I use. :)

If all you add is a couple magnets to the table, that alone is a huge difference. Being able to let go of the knife to change stones and the knife doesn't move from where you last had it is really nice. I bought 2 of the square magnets that chefknivestogo.com sell and then bought some smaller round ones at a hobby store and superglued all of them under there. It was extremely difficult to get them in place without sticking to each other. You would be fine with even one square one, but I'd really recommend the two square side by side especially if you ever sharpen larger/heavy blades.



The stop collar is a big deal when you start using stones of different thicknesses. The Shaptons are twice as thick as the Edge Pro stones and then the Atomas are less than half as thick so going through any range of them is a hassle if you're trying to polish the bevel. The stop collar lets you easily change from an Atoma to a Shapton and compensate for the thickness.

The spring just makes stone changes a lot faster. Nothing fancy there, just a little extra convenience.

[Ankerson]

I have been doing the way I do it for so long now and as often it's like muscle memory and I don't even have to think anymore. :D

[phillipsted]

I've had dozens of different sharpeners over the years, and currently use a WEPS. It is a fantastic sharpening system. Keep in mind that Version 2 of the WEPS will be released soon, and it will have a new style clamp which eliminates a lot of the "fiddling" that folks object to. Personally, I think the WEPS gives as good an edge as anything I've ever used - and you've got a lot of options for stones, diamonds, ceramics, strops, and micro-abrasives.

But I can't really compare because I only have a tiny bit of experience with the EP.

And I still use my Sharpmaker for touch ups and mobile work (like at camp).

TedP

[razorsharp]

Jim - I found the SG's cut super fast and aggressively :)

[razorsharp]

What is the lowest edge angle you can set on each?

At the end of thr day, both are affected by the width of the Knife, the EP will do about 8 dps iirc while the weps with a riser block set to the top setting would probably do close to 10 degrees depending on knife width... Might have a look myself, I am curious

[chuck_roxas45]

Never used any of them myself.

The only change I ever made was the stones that I use. :)

I bought a coarse DMT mounted for EP. I only use that for freehanding these days. I'm actually very satisfied with the Congress SiC's for the EP.

[Surfingringo]

Thanks everyone for the great information! This thread has convinced me, for now, to just stick with my diamond bench stones and the sharpmaker. I get great results with those tools and am able to keep my knives well beyond most sane people's idea of "sharp". I guess my consideration of one of those systems was based mainly on the idea of having a way to make pretty polished bevels. I could spend the money if it was important enough but it sounds like between setup and clamping and lapping stones its kind of a PITA just to get to the same level of sharpness.

[Evil D]

Thanks everyone for the great information! This thread has convinced me, for now, to just stick with my diamond bench stones and the sharpmaker. I get great results with those tools and am able to keep my knives well beyond most sane people's idea of "sharp". I guess my consideration of one of those systems was based mainly on the idea of having a way to make pretty polished bevels. I could spend the money if it was important enough but it sounds like between setup and clamping and lapping stones its kind of a PITA just to get to the same level of sharpness.

Well, I do believe that there comes a point where these sharpeners can do better than almost any human can, save for the best freehand guys on earth. Even the best freehand guys are only within a degree or two at best of the angle they're going for, while these sharpeners can be dialed in pretty much to fractions of a degree.

The question is, does that even matter and is that level of perfection important to you, especially a guy like you who is using their knives on a daily basis and will be doing routine sharpening? I think for a guy who already knows freehand well enough to get a reliable working edge and you're using the Sharpmaker to maintain the edge, then any amount of set up time on one of these setups is going to be a waste of time. It sounds like the only real benefit you'll get is fancy polished bevels, which may still be a waste of time if you're really using your knives hard and are sharpening everyday. It would be more of a hobby type investment rather than a real need to use it type of investment.

Me, I can freehand but it takes me so much more effort and time to get anywhere close to the same level of sharpness that I get from any sharpening device I've used, even the super basic Smith's kit that honestly kinda sucks. So for me It's a worthwhile investment.

[Ankerson]

Just did 5 Henckels kitchen knives for a customer today on the Edge Pro, one serrated. :)

He brought them over, one was really chewed up, someone had tried to sharpen it on a stone.

Pull threw sharper on all of them it seemed.

[farnorthdan]

I tuned up a couple tonight myself on the EP, reprofiling a GB air and my boys hungarian. The air was actually a bit of a challange, not sure if it was the size or the M4 but it took a while to get it were I wanted it. I had to use the 120 stone that comes with the EP, it cuts fast but sure leaves some deep scatches that take a while to get out with finer stones. I really need to pick up a different stone that cuts as fast.

The Hungarian was a breeze even in the rough shape it was in. The boy took it on a fishing/camping trip so the edge was toast. I really like how easy S30v is to profile and the edge it takes. I still used the SM to put a nice little micro bevel on both though.

[Evil D]

My M4 Manix 2 was a bit of bear to reprofile too, and I ended up grinding this weird kink shape on the edge that bothered me so much I sold the knife over it. To this day that steel seems like the most wear resistant steel I've ever encountered, despite what we know about it vs other steels like S110V.

[Ankerson]

Got my 320 and 500 grit Shaptons for the EP today. :cool:

Very nice stones, extremely hard and leave a nice edge finish, almost no slurry at all. :)

[Evil D]

Got my 320 and 500 grit Shaptons for the EP today. :cool:

Very nice stones, extremely hard and leave a nice edge finish, almost no slurry at all. :)

Yep. Good stuff. The only thing I'd point out is, I found it necessary to bevel the edges of the stones on my lapping plate, because they seemed to be a bit "chippy" and were a little rough around the edges. Otherwise they've been well worth the money.

[Ankerson]

Got my 320 and 500 grit Shaptons for the EP today. :cool:

Very nice stones, extremely hard and leave a nice edge finish, almost no slurry at all. :)

Yep. Good stuff. The only thing I'd point out is, I found it necessary to bevel the edges of the stones on my lapping plate, because they seemed to be a bit "chippy" and were a little rough around the edges. Otherwise they've been well worth the money.

Tested them out on my Sebenza last night just to see how they compared to the Moldmasters I normally use.

That's 320 and 400 grit Moldmasters.

The 320's seem to be the same while the Shapton 500 is slightly finer than the 400 grit Moldmaster and that's accurate from looking at the micron rating of the stones.

Both the 320's are the same at 45.94 microns

The 400 grit Moldmaster is 40 microns while the 500 grit Shapton is 29 microns.

[Evil D]

Be sure to let us know what your final opinion is after some long term use. I've loved them so far, but if you think there's a cheaper option that performs as well or even really close to it, I'd like to check them out. I have quite a few gaps in my grit progression, so I need to fill them. For the lower grit stuff, I think I prefer my Atomas since they're always flat and never need lapping and are always the same thickness.

[Ankerson]

Be sure to let us know what your final opinion is after some long term use. I've loved them so far, but if you think there's a cheaper option that performs as well or even really close to it, I'd like to check them out. I have quite a few gaps in my grit progression, so I need to fill them. For the lower grit stuff, I think I prefer my Atomas since they're always flat and never need lapping and are always the same thickness.

I think the biggest difference will be comparing the SIC of the Moldmasters vs the Ceramic of the Shaptons.

The Moldmasters are extremely hard SIC so I do think they are going to be very close.

Neither the Moldmasters nor the Shaptons make a lot of slurry, almost none and that's a positive thing.

Time will tell however.