Manix 2 LW blade swap

[illacky]

The Manix 2 S110V blurple and the Maxamet LW are two of my most used knives. I really appreciate the ergonomics and their slicing ability. I started carrying the Maxamet at work as I prefer the lighter weight vs the G10 version. The issue I started running into with Maxamet is that it likes to rust in the humid and sweaty environment at work. So this led me to a crazy idea of swapping the blades out. With a S110V lightweight the issue of rust is eliminated and I can carry the Maxamet when I'm not at work.

After researching on how to remove the blade from a LW manix I wasn't confident. Most people on different discussion forums say you need to drill out the rivets. After pulling out the pivot screws and inspecting I decided to give it go without drilling. Whats a $160 knife anyways? :D A couple beers, hacksaw blade (as a shim), small flathead bits, and a few choice words later I had the Maxamet blade out. Luckily the FRN was pliable enough to be spread so the blade pivot would clear without breaking.

I ordered some micarta scales off Amazon to replace the blurple g10 scales. The rest of the swap went fairly smooth. The S110V blade went into the LW frame easier than the Maxamet came out. I had to use expanding cone off a .308 sizing die to spread the lanyard tube to fit against the micarta as the holes were slightly larger than the G10. After it was all said and done the results were better than I expected. The lockup, action and blade centering came out very well.

Now I have my gray S110V work knife that (hopefully) won't rust and a more elegant micarta Maxamet version that won't get dull! :)
Thoughts?

[attila]

That's really cool and thanks for the explanation!

[abbazaba]

Awesome! Thanks for sharing!

[Slumblor]

I'm sure the couple of beers was the most important tool for this job.

[illacky]

I’d say out of all the tools needed for the job, the beers were the most inportant

[bdblue]

I don't know if you were lucky or just good. Other people tried to get the blade out of the S110V LW Manix 2 and couldn't do it without breaking the scales. Other people did drill out the rivets and then had to find new bolts to replace them.

[illacky]

The scales seemed to bend ok without too much stress, there doesn’t appear to be any stress marks on the plastic. Albeit I’ve never tested the breaking point of spyderco’s FRN. The hardest part seemed to be getting the metal eyelets the pivot pin rests in that are pinned to the backspacer spread enough to get one side of the pivot to clear. Once I had one edge of the pivot pin resting on the metal eyelet I used the hacksaw blade to shim that side so it wouldnt pop back in the hole, then I pried the opposite side up enough with a small flathead to get the other side of the pivot pin to rest on the edge of opposite side eyelet, and it pushed straight out. It takes more patience than anything, and probably a considerable amount of luck.

[Midwest Diesel Tech]

Nicely done!

[toxophilus]

The scales seemed to bend ok without too much stress, there doesn’t appear to be any stress marks on the plastic. Albeit I’ve never tested the breaking point of spyderco’s FRN. The hardest part seemed to be getting the metal eyelets the pivot pin rests in that are pinned to the backspacer spread enough to get one side of the pivot to clear. Once I had one edge of the pivot pin resting on the metal eyelet I used the hacksaw blade to shim that side so it wouldnt pop back in the hole, then I pried the opposite side up enough with a small flathead to get the other side of the pivot pin to rest on the edge of opposite side eyelet, and it pushed straight out. It takes more patience than anything, and probably a considerable amount of luck.

Ivan, Thx for posting this; you inspired me to blade swap my new S90V blade from my Cutlery Shoppe orange scaled model with my well used S90V blade from my carbon fiber Manix 2. I opted to use a dull razor blade for shim so the pivot assembly wouldn't fall back in... now time for a beer!

Cheers!!!

[illacky]

The scales seemed to bend ok without too much stress, there doesn’t appear to be any stress marks on the plastic. Albeit I’ve never tested the breaking point of spyderco’s FRN. The hardest part seemed to be getting the metal eyelets the pivot pin rests in that are pinned to the backspacer spread enough to get one side of the pivot to clear. Once I had one edge of the pivot pin resting on the metal eyelet I used the hacksaw blade to shim that side so it wouldnt pop back in the hole, then I pried the opposite side up enough with a small flathead to get the other side of the pivot pin to rest on the edge of opposite side eyelet, and it pushed straight out. It takes more patience than anything, and probably a considerable amount of luck.

Ivan, Thx for posting this; you inspired me to blade swap my new S90V blade from my Cutlery Shoppe orange scaled model with my well used S90V blade from my carbon fiber Manix 2. I opted to use a dull razor blade for shim so the pivot assembly wouldn't fall back in... now time for a beer!

Cheers!!!

Excellent! Your use of the razor blade is a good idea and if I did it over I would use that over the hacksaw blade. I’m glad this works for others and it’s not by luck the thing doesn’t break. How were your results?

[toxophilus]

Excellent! Your use of the razor blade is a good idea and if I did it over I would use that over the hacksaw blade. I’m glad this works for others and it’s not by luck the thing doesn’t break. How were your results?

The one other step I took was to insert a brass punch after I pulled back the black plastic blade disengagement lever so it would be out of the way when I inserted the blade back in.

Below is an image of the Carbon Fiber sporting the new S90V blade and the old S90V blade on the orange scales.

[illacky]

Excellent! Your use of the razor blade is a good idea and if I did it over I would use that over the hacksaw blade. I’m glad this works for others and it’s not by luck the thing doesn’t break. How were your results?

The one other step I took was to insert a brass punch after I pulled back the black plastic blade disengagement lever so it would be out of the way when I inserted the blade back in.

Below is an image of the Carbon Fiber sporting the new S90V blade and the old S90V blade on the orange scales.

Looks fantastic, excellent work! You really put some use on the old S90v blade!

[DougC-3]

Well, this thread was all it took to make me go ahead and order the CS exclusive orange lightweight. Thanks a lot for the good technique and explanations.

I've been wanting an S90V Manix 2 with a CF or G-10 handle, for a relatively low price. I like the light wts OK, but for this knife, I wanted a heavier one, so I plan to do a swap with my first spydie, a combination edge hollow ground S30V M2. Like most folks, I've sort of fallen out of love with CE and hollow ground edges, but the resulting orange handled one would make a great around-the-house, yard, garage utility knife.

[toxophilus]

Well, this thread was all it took to make me go ahead and order the CS exclusive orange lightweight. Thanks a lot for the good technique and explanations.

I've been wanting an S90V Manix 2 with a CF or G-10 handle, for a relatively low price. I like the light wts OK, but for this knife, I wanted a heavier one, so I plan to do a swap with my first spydie, a combination edge hollow ground S30V M2. Like most folks, I've sort of fallen out of love with CE and hollow ground edges, but the resulting orange handled one would make a great around-the-house, yard, garage utility knife.

DougC-3, I think if/when I do this again, I'd take off the pocket clip and put it firmly in a padded vise, a third pair of hands/vise jaws holding it steady would help :spyder:

[palonej]

I get scared just thinking of attempting this!!!
Great work guys.......and who can I send my knives to for the swap!!
:D :D
Joe

[illacky]

For DougC-3 and anyone else that may attempt this I have a couple more observations that may be helpful. Although it may be common sense it wasn't for me until I thought about it after the fact.

When you are prying apart the frame from the blade pivot it is important that you pry between the metal eyelet and the tang of the blade. If you pry between the FRN and the blade tang you won't be able to get the pivot to clear. The FRN will bend with the eyelet.

Take care to avoid prying against the bronze washers, they will deform easily with any sort of sharp direct pressure, I put a small gouge in one of mine that I had to sand lightly to get the sharp edge off.

Lastly when you ar putting the replacement blade back in; it is tricky to get the flats of the pivot orientated correctly when you are spreading the eyelets to return the pivot to the hole. I did not have them oriented correctly and it wouldn't snap into the eyelet holes. If this happens to you don't pull the blade back out: line up the holes on the eyelets with the threads of the pivot. Screw one pivot screw in until the pivot starts turning, keep turning that screw until the pivot flats line up with the flats on the eyelets and it will snap into the eyelet holes.

Hope this helps as it would have been useful for me if known before I started.
Cheers and good luck! :)

[DougC-3]

Thanks for the extra tips, guys -- I'm sure they'll help a lot :)

[DougC-3]

Sorry, wrong thread.