Need help with a Lansky sharpener on S30V

[Wayne G.]

Hi all. I already asked about sharpening S30V but this question pertains specifically to using a Lansky system. I've had it for years and have always gotten good results with it on other steels. I'm not having much luck on my Manix 2. I would hazard a guess that this problem is In the technique rather than in the product. I set the angle at 20 degrees. In short, where I ended up is 10 minutes with course (red) with moderate pressure, alternating sides every 2 minutes even though I never felt a burr. I switched to medium (green) with slight pressure for about 10 minutes with the same method, then switched to fine (blue) for 30 mins with no pressure, alternating sides every minute. I finished with 20 strokes on the strop. An hour after I began, the knife is no sharper than when I started.

I know about setting the rods in line with the stones which I did on all three. Moreover, I kept light upward pressure on the rod with my non active index finger behind the 20 degree slot to maintain consistency. So I know the little quirks and tricks to using the system. Hence I'm baffled. I just ordered an ultra fine (yellow) on eBay but at this point I believe it would be a waste of time to use it because the edge is nowhere near being ready for it.

What am I doing wrong? Better question is what should I do to get the desired results--hair popping sharp?

I know that a sharpmaker would get me there but I can't spring for one right now.

Thanks for your help.

[farnorthdan]

Have you tried using a sharpie marker on the edge to see where your hitting, you may not even be at the apex. There are some sharpening experts here that will chime in soon I'm sure but I would try the sharpie trick first.

[Wayne G.]

Thanks. I haven't tried the sharpie marker. But if I'm setting a new edge with the course stone (or trying to) I'm curious as to how a sharpie would be beneficial.

[Evil D]

Thanks. I haven't tried the sharpie marker. But if I'm setting a new edge with the course stone (or trying to) I'm curious as to how a sharpie would be beneficial.

If you're setting a new bevel and you never feel a burr, you probably haven't hit the apex yet. Using a sharpie with tell you this because it'll leave marker on any part of the bevel you aren't hitting, even a tiny bit of the very edge. There's no set time limit for resetting a bevel, it's reset when it's reset, so simply ggoing by 10 minutes per side won't necessarily get you there.

[Brock O Lee]

My guess is you did not apex on the coarse stone. I would say spend some more time working with that stone until you are certain you have a clean apex.

If you had not done this, it will be beneficial to lap/flatten your stones. They will cut much faster afterwards.

I used to use the Lansky system a long time ago, and had high hopes for it. It turned out to be the most frustrating experience ever. I will not go into the details here, lets just say that I found it to have significant limitations.

I would not suggest anyone to use it for difficult to grind steels, S30V being at the upper range of it's capabilities IMHO.

[Doc Dan]

The Lansky is a good system but it does have is limitations, as was stated. It is most likely you have not hit the apex. I do not know what type of stones you are using with your Lansky, but S30V can be hard to sharpen. If you are hitting the apex (a sharpie will tell you) then my opinion would be to get diamond stones for the Lansky. I use these with good results.

[Evil D]

Speaking of Lansky and lapping stones, I have never seen a Lansky stone that was flat from the factory, all of the 10 or so that I have were severely dished, requiring a crazy amount of lapping. Also consider that this will likely alter the thickness of your stones and in turn vary the angle that each stone hits the edge due to being different thicknesses....all reasons moved over to the Edge Pro camp.

[araneae]

Speaking of Lansky and lapping stones, I have never seen a Lansky stone that was flat from the factory, all of the 10 or so that I have were severely dished, requiring a crazy amount of lapping. Also consider that this will likely alter the thickness of your stones and in turn vary the angle that each stone hits the edge due to being different thicknesses....all reasons moved over to the Edge Pro camp.

I haven't seen this myself. Some of mine are dished, but only from use. The diamond hones are always nice and flat...

[farnorthdan]

Speaking of Lansky and lapping stones, I have never seen a Lansky stone that was flat from the factory, all of the 10 or so that I have were severely dished, requiring a crazy amount of lapping. Also consider that this will likely alter the thickness of your stones and in turn vary the angle that each stone hits the edge due to being different thicknesses....all reasons moved over to the Edge Pro camp.

I also moved to the Edge pro camp for obvious reasons, one of the main reasons is the EP's ability to use the drill stop collar which allows you to adjust for different stone thicknesses, also the stone leveling kit. There are many stones to choose from also.

[Cliff Stamp]

Hi all. I already asked about sharpening S30V but this question pertains specifically to using a Lansky system. I've had it for years and have always gotten good results with it on other steels.

If S30V is your first experience with high vanadium/carbide steels then you might be surprised by the time it takes to remove steel from the knife. Here is a very simple check :

Step 0 : take the knife and make one pass into the coarse stone as if you were trying to saw it in two

You should be able to look at the knife down into the edge and see it reflect light

Step 1 : make 10 passes on each side of the knife with the coarse stone at the jig angle you want to use
Step 2 : do you still see light? if you do go back to Step 1

Step 3 : adjust to the next highest angle and do 5 very light passes on the fine stone.

This is very likely to produce a very sharp edge and you can just do this step for a long time before you need to go back to Step 0.

[Evil D]

Speaking of Lansky and lapping stones, I have never seen a Lansky stone that was flat from the factory, all of the 10 or so that I have were severely dished, requiring a crazy amount of lapping. Also consider that this will likely alter the thickness of your stones and in turn vary the angle that each stone hits the edge due to being different thicknesses....all reasons moved over to the Edge Pro camp.

I haven't seen this myself. Some of mine are dished, but only from use. The diamond hones are always nice and flat...

Correction, my diamond stones ARE flat, it was just all the others that weren't. The worst two were the yellow high grit, I think it's 1k, and the "blue sapphire" which is like 2-3k I think. Those were really hard stones that took a crazy long time to flatten.

[Wayne G.]

Thank you for the suggestions. I tried the sharpie marker and it removed the mark completely on bit sides, including the apex. I broke down and bought a Sharpmaker as I was frustrated by my efforts thus far. Thank you all again.

[farnorthdan]

Thank you for the suggestions. I tried the sharpie marker and it removed the mark completely on bit sides, including the apex. I broke down and bought a Sharpmaker as I was frustrated by my efforts thus far. Thank you all again.

The sharpmaker is a great choice, also look into either the diamond rods or Cubic Boron Nitride Rods for establishing a new bevel as the medium and fine rods that come with the kit can take a very long time for re beveling mostly they are for maintaining the edge.

[Cliff Stamp]

I tried the sharpie marker and it removed the mark completely on bit sides, including the apex. I broke down and bought a Sharpmaker as I was frustrated by my efforts thus far.

A Sharpmaker isn't in general going to resolve the type of problem you have. Using a marker on the edge can be useful, but simply because you remove the marker from the edge doesn't mean you are forming an apex, especially with modern very high carbide steels. Just use the very simple method I tried which directly shows you when an apex is formed and then sets one with a micro-bevel.