Is rust likely on a SB pivot? (DF2)

[babtron]

Hey guys, I've been using my SB DF2 for quite a bit now, ever since it was released. I use it mainly for EDC but sometimes for food prep, cutting fruit or whatnot. Within this first few months, I only really had an issue with corrosion on the spine of the blade. I left it there and it ended up pitting. No biggie as I just polished and sanded it down. There's just a darkened spot now but it was golden.

A couple days ago I saw some rust develop on the lower spine (the area in the handles) and the Spydie hole. Of course, it is mainly due to me not cleaning it well enough. I also saw some rust on the edge (no biggie as I can sharpen that out at a later time). I used my usual routine to clean up the rust on the spine and Spydie hole and all is well.

But how likely is it that corrosion is in the pivot? I'm very weary on taking the knife apart just to check due to voiding the warranty. I went a couple months without any sign of corrosion anywhere on the blade. Only 3 spots so far have seen corrosion and that is mainly due to my error. I've kept the pivot lubed with either Nano-Oil, mineral oil or now, Ballistol (great stuff). I have sprayed CorrosionX in the pivot, but I swear that stuff "ate" some of the etching on the blade lol. Should I be concerned? Does Spyderco "reinforce" the pivot area somehow on these SB sprints? Is there anything I can spray in there to definitely "kill" the corrosion or will the Ballistol in there do the job?

Or would sending it into Spyderco for a "spa" treatment be feasible? Maybe clean up the blade and any corrosion?

Thanks guys! Absolutely love the knife. The maintenance is worth it for the performance. I feel bad, it feels like I've neglected this guy

[The Deacon]

Aren't the SB Dragonflies laminated with a stainless outer layer? If so the tang should be reasonably rust resistant except for the narrow strip along the center line of the blade where the SB is exposed.

[stalag2]

I would avoid Ballistol on phosphore bronze washers as it induces corrosion on copper alloys, i used it for a few months then stopped when i noticed darkening on my GB.
Never used SB though nor any very corrosion prone steels on a folder but i would guess if you had rust on the spine and the edge, that's very likely you got pitting under the washers.

[jackknifeh]

I've always heard a patina will protect carbon blades from rust. It's like patina is good corrosion and rust is bad corrosion. So if you were to allow some food juices into the pivot area and work the blade just like you would when oiling it you would force a patina on the area where the SB is. Inside the pivot hole also. Let it sit for 15-20 minutes or so then wash it thoroughly under running water and dish soap in the sink. Be sure to get the pivot clean and dry it completely with a hair drier. After that just keep it lubed as usual. You listed some good corrosion products. One thing about Tuf-Glide is while it's possibly one of the best corrosion protectants it's a lousy lubricant. When using it in a pivot I usually let it dry overnight then use a better lubricant. Normally after one or two days with just Tuf-Glide the pivot gets worse than when using no lube at all. Just my personal experience. Nano-oil is the best lube I've used but it's expensive and actually designed for heavier needs than pocket knives. But as I said you have some that are plenty good I think. Also, as Paul said the D'fly is laminated so the only SB open to the air is around the outside of the tang and the inside of the pivot hole just like it is on the spine. Also, inside the pivot hole you are constantly rubbing the inside of the hole against the pivot pin. That may rub any rust off so it can be washed out. But preventing that is the best thing. On the blade I just use Tuf-Glide. One thing though even Tuf-Glide won't prevent patina on the SB knives I use for food. Sometimes I'll use my Stretch for a dinner knife. You can watch the patina form right before your eyes. :)

Jack

[babtron]

Thanks guys!

stalag2-I have heard that about Ballistol. Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the DF2 lack any sort of washers?

Jack-definitely. I love to patina on this thing! It's well worth the maintenance. I absolutely love this steel! It's just deciding between this and ZDP-189 I have the hardest time doing :p

[babtron]

Sorry, double post :)

[jackknifeh]

Thanks guys!

stalag2-I have heard that about Ballistol. Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the DF2 lack any sort of washers?

Jack-definitely. I love to patina on this thing! It's well worth the maintenance. I absolutely love this steel! It's just deciding between this and ZDP-189 I have the hardest time doing :p

The Dfly2 doesn't have washers. Not the kind you can drop and watch them roll under the heaviest piece of furniture in the room anyway. :) The "washers" are actually molded into the FRN. If you hold the knife so you can see between the scale and the blade tang just right with a light on the other side you can see a very small gap. There aren't any washers you need to worry about corrosion though if that's what you are thinking.

Jack

[opusxpn]

Tuff glide with needle applicator that works, the pivot is a moving part so I do think out of the whole knife that should be looked after more often. Carbon steel is a very nice steel specially from Japan but it does need more attention. The laminated only protects what is not exposed, the pivot hole the top and bottom jimping, and the edge are always exposed.

[VashHash]

Constantly using the knife would actually keep the rust at bay. You're constantly polishing the pivot area. I would definitely say put some oil on it though. Something kinda viscous that would stick around. Mineral oil works pretty well. Odorless colorless and the usp version is foodsafe. The back of the knife the lock bar rubs on should be ok too . Unless you put the knife in saltwater then pulled it out and left it alone for a day or so.

[BrofessorOak]

Constantly using the knife would actually keep the rust at bay. You're constantly polishing the pivot area. I would definitely say put some oil on it though. Something kinda viscous that would stick around. Mineral oil works pretty well. Odorless colorless and the usp version is foodsafe. The back of the knife the lock bar rubs on should be ok too . Unless you put the knife in saltwater then pulled it out and left it alone for a day or so.

Actually mineral oil is foodsafe, it's sold in pharmacies as a laxative. Obviously small ammounts are harmless but a table spoon-full would probably be enough to get you going.

Using the knife and drying it with a paper towel would be enough to keep the rust off though.