Bodog wrote:So then you're suggesting M390 for the edc requirements I stated? If so, thank you. I was thinking 4V/V4E/Vanadis 23 for their toughness and edge holding capabilities. Considering I like the well balanced nature PSF27, but think that toughness and edge wear resistance could be improved and slightly lower corrsosion resitance would be acceptable, would you think that any of the aforementioned steels would be better suited to my stated needs more than M390?
It's more knife design and blade geometry than the steel really.
One can take S90V with thicker geometry and pound it though bricks if they wanted to....
What knives would you pry with?
South Forks... Spyderco on the bottom, Custom on top..
M390 Blades...Custom on the Bottom, GS0 4.1 on top..
Para 2 on the left, Umnumzaan on the right... Both S30V.
I've never tried M390, but I've put my CTS-204P PM2 through its paces and it's Carpenter's equivalent to M390. In my uses it's proved to be exceptional...it's actually become my favourite stainless steel to date. I certainly wouldn't mind seeing more offerings featuring one or the other.
And regardless of steel...if I had to pry with any of my knives (I've done some VERY light prying with some, but I typically use the screwdriver bit of my Leatherman) it would be my Schempp Tuff...same with if I had to bet money on which of my 39 would suffer the least damage being stabbed into a concrete block. Blade shape and geometry is definitely a larger driving factor behind the function of a knife than the steel is.
Last edited by 3rdGenRigger on Fri Oct 31, 2014 7:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
3rdGenRigger wrote:I've never tried M390, but I've put my CTS-204P PM2 through its paces and it's Carpenter's equivalent to M390. In my uses it's proved to be exceptional...it's actually become my favourite stainless steel to date. I certainly wouldn't mind seeing more offerings featuring one or the other.
3rdGenRigger wrote:
And regardless of steel...if I had to pry with any of my knives (I've done some VERY light prying with some, but I typically use the screwdriver bit of my Leatherman) it would be my Schempp Tuff...same with if I had to bet money on which of my 39 would suffer the least damage being stabbed into a concrete block. Blade shape and geometry is definitely a larger driving factor behind the function of a knife than the steel is.
3rdGenRigger wrote:I've never tried M390, but I've put my CTS-204P PM2 through its paces and it's Carpenter's equivalent to M390. In my uses it's proved to be exceptional...it's actually become my favourite stainless steel to date. I certainly wouldn't mind seeing more offerings featuring one or the other.
Yeah 204P is a good steel, and CPM 20CV. :)
I haven't tried CPM 20CV but I sure wouldn't mind. I've also been really liking CPM CruWear for my work knives lately. I was cutting some landscaping cloth with a loaded pallet behind it and a few times nicked some metal banding with the edge...not hard, but enough to make a minor chip on my S30V knives and the CruWear held up perfectly. There's 2 slightly "Duller" spots on the edge, but no chipping or rolling and it will still cleanly slice receipt paper.
3rdGenRigger wrote:
And regardless of steel...if I had to pry with any of my knives (I've done some VERY light prying with some, but I typically use the screwdriver bit of my Leatherman) it would be my Schempp Tuff...same with if I had to bet money on which of my 39 would suffer the least damage being stabbed into a concrete block. Blade shape and geometry is definitely a larger driving factor behind the function of a knife than the steel is.
I have a mini pry bar on my key chain.... :D
I've thought about buying a widgy bar, but my Leatherman works fine for the limited prying I need to do when I'm not at work and don't have access to more dedicated prying tools.
3rdGenRigger wrote:I've never tried M390, but I've put my CTS-204P PM2 through its paces and it's Carpenter's equivalent to M390. In my uses it's proved to be exceptional...it's actually become my favourite stainless steel to date. I certainly wouldn't mind seeing more offerings featuring one or the other.
Yeah 204P is a good steel, and CPM 20CV. :)
I haven't tried CPM 20CV but I sure wouldn't mind. I've also been really liking CPM CruWear for my work knives lately. I was cutting some landscaping cloth with a loaded pallet behind it and a few times nicked some metal banding with the edge...not hard, but enough to make a minor chip on my S30V knives and the CruWear held up perfectly. There's 2 slightly "Duller" spots on the edge, but no chipping or rolling and it will still cleanly slice receipt paper.
I tested a custom in CPM Cruwear that I was very impressed with, it was 63 HRC and VERY thin behind the edge at .005"...
I do think CPM Cruwear, CPM 4V and V4E all have good potential. :)
3rdGenRigger wrote:
And regardless of steel...if I had to pry with any of my knives (I've done some VERY light prying with some, but I typically use the screwdriver bit of my Leatherman) it would be my Schempp Tuff...same with if I had to bet money on which of my 39 would suffer the least damage being stabbed into a concrete block. Blade shape and geometry is definitely a larger driving factor behind the function of a knife than the steel is.
I have a mini pry bar on my key chain.... :D
I've thought about buying a widgy bar, but my Leatherman works fine for the limited prying I need to do when I'm not at work and don't have access to more dedicated prying tools.
They do come in handy. :D
I don't plan on snapping the tip off my EDC..... Been there done that more than once over the years and have a drawer full of t-shirts....
I've pried a little even with my old 2mm stock Chaparral, but the knife was closed and I was prying with the spine and not the tip of the blade...made a great beer bottle opener.
3rdGenRigger wrote:I've pried a little even with my old 2mm stock Chaparral, but the knife was closed and I was prying with the spine and not the tip of the blade...made a great beer bottle opener.
3rdGenRigger wrote:I've pried a little even with my old 2mm stock Chaparral, but the knife was closed and I was prying with the spine and not the tip of the blade...made a great beer bottle opener.
That will work. :D
That or a lighter.. :)
I don't smoke, except for the occasional cigar, but as such I don't always have a lighter on hand...but I ALWAYS have a Spyderco.
I've never snapped the tip off a knife, but I saw a friend of mine lend his Spyderco to a stupid co-worker who tried to pry something with the knife and snapped about 3/4" off the end of the blade (SS Delica)...the scabby bastard (Who doesn't work for us anymore) proclaimed it to be a bad knife because it snapped and wouldn't pay to replace it, or even have it reground. Some people don't seem to understand the effects of hardening steel with respect to brittleness. Since then I've been very careful with my knives and VERY picky about who I'm willing to lend the knife to and I make sure they know it's not to be used for prying.
3rdGenRigger wrote:I've pried a little even with my old 2mm stock Chaparral, but the knife was closed and I was prying with the spine and not the tip of the blade...made a great beer bottle opener.
That will work. :D
That or a lighter.. :)
I don't smoke, except for the occasional cigar, but as such I don't always have a lighter on hand...but I ALWAYS have a Spyderco.
I've never snapped the tip off a knife, but I saw a friend of mine lend his Spyderco to a stupid co-worker who tried to pry something with the knife and snapped about 3/4" off the end of the blade (SS Delica)...the scabby bastard (Who doesn't work for us anymore) proclaimed it to be a bad knife because it snapped and wouldn't pay to replace it, or even have it reground. Some people don't seem to understand the effects of hardening steel with respect to brittleness. Since then I've been very careful with my knives and VERY picky about who I'm willing to lend the knife to and I make sure they know it's not to be used for prying.
Taking a knife that's ground thin at the tip and prying with it or something isn't exactly the smartest thing to do as they just aren't ground to take it..
Doesn't matter if it's 3V or VG-10, the possibility that it's going to snap is very high...
sal wrote:We will be getting some of Crucible's new CPM-20CV (Carpenter 204P, Bohler-Uddeholm M390). Any intereest in a Mule Team?
sal
Absolutely. I'd love to see CPM pitted against BU's third gen PM in essentially the same steel composition. What's the hardness normally seen in both in production knives, 59 +/- 1 for 20CV and 60 +/-1 for M390?
Are the CATRA results generally the same for both?
They who dance are thought mad by those who do not hear the music.
We will be getting some of Crucible's new CPM-20CV (Carpenter 204P, Bohler-Uddeholm M390). Any intereest in a Mule Team?
sal
Seems like it would be worth a test. It should be an excellent performer like the similar composition steels from the other foundrys. There is very little to complain about and a lot to like with these.
